The Gist: http://industrielfarm.com/
The Why: Going into LA on short notice for a noon-time game I wanted a space that was open continuously from brunch to dinner so as not to require reservations or require any rush to get there (by foot) after leaving Staples Center. Surely I could have made it to Lazy Ox by 3:00, but perhaps cutting it close, and although Umamicatessen looked alright it wasn’t exactly what I was looking for and as such I asked the folks at Chowhound to help out – one of them suggesting Industriel, a place I’d not heard of but one I immediately took a liking to based on a SlowFood ethos of supporting local farms, artisan meat suppliers, and a commitment to preparing everything in house – including jams, jellies, and sauces to go. Admitting now that I’d not expected the Kings to play quite so poorly in their home opener another benefit of Industriel was the 8a-3p Brunch service awaiting me whenever I chose to leave the arena (with about 5 minutes left as it would turn out.)
The Reservation: None made, and when my friend and I arrived at just after 2:15 it turned out none was needed – only two other tables filled and a 1:1 server to table ratio with the kitchen still hard at work prepping for dinner service.
The Setting: Okay, aside from the much photographed, completely odd, and totally awesome chandelier of honey bears hanging over a bathtub the space at Industriel is quite unique, a sort of front foyer/bar in front of the hostess stand where the kitchen is open and those so inclined can grab a coffee, a pastry, or even some preserves to stay or to go, and then the rest of the 2-story space spanning out behind the podium. Fitting the theme of an “Industrial Farm” in its downtown location the feeling is rustic and textured with a lot of wood, robe, and twine but also modern with steel and red leather. The place is comfortably homey without letting you forget you are in LA.
The Service: I’ve heard some claim that service is not the selling point of Industriel but given our 1-to-1 server to table ratio I really cannot comment – from the moment we arrived to the moment we left we were very well taken care of, nothing rushed yet coffee refilled at least 5 times, and silverware replaced between courses while even my napkin was replaced when I went to the restroom; far better than the average ‘gastropub’ or space of similar price point.
The Food and Drink: Coffee, three small plates, three large plates.
Coffee: Excellent and served copiously with warm milk, sugar, and all three sweeteners I actually neglected to ask who roasted the beans, but certainly something familiar and not a single origin my guess is Lavazza or Illy given the mellow cocoa notes, though I certainly could be wrong.
Whole Wheat Croissant: With everything baked in house using local butter the breads were a must for me and of the three we ordered this was the best by far, a light and wispy interior beneath a tanned shell that may ‘seem’ healthy based on the ‘whole wheat,’ but chockablock full of butter atop the light nuttiness. Great on its own, it was better when paired with…
Scone with Clotted Cream and Raspberry Jam: There is a basket of scones on the menu at Industriel that you could buy for $9, or a single one for $2.50 that comes out warm and paired with far too much house made clotted cream and raspberry jam – enough to add to the croissant, or simply eat by the spoonful once you finish the buttery but rather one-note scone. Decent, but certainly not best-of-its-class, the story here was definitely the house made accoutrements – particularly the dense cream and its subtle sweetness.
Daily Bread with Compound Butter: Made fresh throughout the day and changing with the season and spices our bread plate was two dense pieces of rosemary-onion focaccia and one large white pillow of sourdough with rosemary butter and balsamic vinegar. Warm and quite good, yet certainly not ‘wowing’ compared to the bread service at many top tier or mid-range spots it served its purpose admirably, both as a delivery mechanism for the top-grade butter and as a sponge for the sauces of our main plates.
Farm Egg, Crispy Soft Poached, Bacon Leek Risotto, Spinach, Parmesan, Truffle Oil: The first of our main plates this take on bacon and eggs was quite good – the sous-vide egg subsequently breaded and fried with a perfect runny yolk breaking over a bed of julienned spinach and soft rice lightly tinged with leeks, pork, but just a touch too much truffle oil. A decent preparation but in my opinion the weakest of the plates we selected at Industriel the $14 price and sizable portion was right, but I’d have sooner paid more for better quality rice with a little more tooth…or suggest perhaps upgrading the rice and decreasing the truffle oil to let the other ingredients come to the fore.
Duck, Duck, Goose: House Duck Sausage, Duck Fat Biscuits, Faux Gras Gravy, Eggs: While this *might* have been better with real foie gras gravy I’m really not so sure it would have mattered; this was a great dish even if the cliché name was a lie since there was no gooses harmed (and no PETA activists offended) in the making of this plate. Creamy sausage, almost a boudin blanc in texture, and rife with the sapor of duck plus spices including thyme and rosemary paired with biscuits crisp on the exterior but fluffy within the small smear of gravy was almost inconsequential aside from what it added to the buttery scrambled eggs – not typically a savory breakfast sort this was the sort of dish that occasionally makes me rethink my stance.
Brioche French Toast with Compote, Whipped Cream, Vanilla Maple Syrup: Whether two slices of bread are worth $14 is a matter of personal opinion, but when they are about an inch and a half thick, completely custard on the interior and deep fried to crisp on the exterior I’d argue towards ‘yes,’ particularly when paired with house made blueberry preserves, hand churned whipped cream, and hot maple syrup. Far more dessert than breakfast it was this dish (and dinner at Alma only 2 hours later) that made me okay with skipping the tempting sweets menu at Industriel, something I rarely do.
The Verdict: While I can’t speak to peak hours service issues I can speak very positively about my experience at Industriel and to the restaurant’s ethics and concept. A unique space in a market where restaurants seem to come and go on a weekly basis I personally hope Industriel starts to get more attention, particularly for a brunch menu that moved effortlessly from sweet to savory and although not the ‘best’ meal in downtown definitely a top contender for its price bracket, hours, concept, and quality.