The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.
Orange Julius
Zucchini Pecorino Bread
Strawberry – Gazpacho with Duck Prosciutto, Black Pepper, Olive Oil + Croutons
Egg – Poached with Asparagus, Quinoa, Parmesan + Brown Butter Sabayon
Trout – Smoked with Cucumber, Buttermilk, Rye
Foie Gras – Torchon with Tete De Cochon, Radishes, Nasturtium, Toasted Wheat Bread
Carrots – Oven Roasted with Cumin, Wheatberries, Crispy Duck Skin
Duck – Roasted with Fennel, Peaches, Pickled Juniper
Chicken – Whole Roasted for Two, Black Truffle, Foie Gras, Brioche
Chocolate Caramel Tart with Fleur de Sel with House Salted Caramel
Kougin Amann with Sour Cherry Compote
Lemon Meringue House Ricotta
Rhubarb Linzer Tart House Ricotta
Raspberry Macaron with Sweet Cream
Coffee with Biscotti – Intelligentsia Nomad Blend
Call it the Midas touch or simply an effect of being a student of (and heir apparent to) Danny Meyer but it seems that no matter what the team of Daniel Humm and Will Guidara touches these days becomes golden – 3* for EMP, multiple Beard Awards in multiple categories, a bestselling cookbook, and now The NoMad; a slightly more casual take on Humm’s incalculable culinary skills housed in the hotel of the same name. An obvious choice for lunch during this short stay in New York, particularly given the dear friends with whom I’d be dining I really needn’t belabor the service or the ‘experience’ aspect of the visit as we were treated like royalty by our captain, Laura, and her entire team throughout the afternoon including service on par with that at Eleven Madison Park and a complete tour of The Nomad – each room, the kitchen, and the (then soon to be opened) rooftop as well.
Truly a beautiful space full of both posh details like the library, parlor, and fireplace rooms all surrounding the beautiful atrium where we were seated to dine it is clear from the moment you arrive that no expense was sparred on The Nomad and although I love many dining rooms in New York a great deal, this one is truly one to behold. Greeted, seated, and served a total of three courses entailing twelve dishes plus bread, beverages, and coffee that would all be equally appropriate at EMP I think it would be hard to choose just one moment or dish that truly captures the quality of The Nomad, but perhaps I can do justice by suggesting three; the most audacious, the most unexpected, and the most traditional – an ~$80 chicken worth every penny both in terms of ingredients and execution, the sort of carrots that make you wonder why American’s so seldom focus on vegetables as more than a side dish, and a Kougin Amann served by the slice with an exterior so well caramelized I’m still not sure how they cut it without shattering the top like glass.
While some may call it EMP-lite and others may claim the prices are exorbitant – mostly directed at the chicken – for what you get I’ll simply say that much like at the flagship what Humm and Guidara are doing at NoMad is best defined as “special.” It is a space every bit as lovely as any in the Big Apple and the food, although sometimes not as ‘adventurous’ as that at Eleven Madison Park, is every bit as beautiful, pristine, and delicious – even if you don’t order the chicken…though you really should.
