Great Northern Food Hall
Kanelsnurre
Banana Walnut Pound Cake
Blood Orange Spandaur
Cinnamon Chocolate Chip Cookie
Sea Buckthorn and Carrot Muffin
Chocolate Rye Bar
Barley & Strawberry Porridge – Warm Pearl Barley, Strawberries, Granola, Rhubarb Compote, Vanilla Sugar
Ollebrod – Cold Rye Bread Porridge, Vanilla Foam, Sea Buckthorn, Tarragon Sugar, Small Caramelized Rye
Opened as part of the continued evolution of Grand Central Station, a place where the hustle and bustle of getting from Point A to Point B had long made considerations of anything more than the Oyster Bar irrelevant for most, the Great Northern Food Hall was imagined by the minds behind much of the ‘New Nordic’ movement that has continuously influenced fine dining ever since noma became the “best restaurant in the World,” a look at the project on Saturday showing it to be not only well executed, but popular amongst a diverse crowd.
Building the concept around existing architecture, a small bakery and deli plus the Danish Hot Dog stand found on the Vanderbilt corner while the rest of the stalls occupy a sprawling space adjacent the World-famous terminal, first impressions of the Food Hall are formed by clean lines and polished wood along with tiles and glass cases, a cuisine sometimes felt esoteric or ‘elitest’ immediately made accessible by presenting most items with a lengthy description and forms that are familiar from baked goods to Salads, Sandwiches and Bowls.
Forgoing a lot of the foraging, flowers and fermentation associated with the movement, but still involving a lot of ancient Grains, Berries and Herbs throughput the various stands, it was after a brief stop at Meyers Bageri that a seat at the far right end of Grain Bar was selected, a thin server with a Spanish accent taking orders and passing them on to bearded Cook, the request for customization with “Soy or Skim” Milk by a woman to the left flatly rejected, as was that for a “Mimosa or Cocktail” as she seemed somewhat confused as to what sort of bar this was.
Watching the team work as a few Pastries were tasted, the Banana Walnut Pound Cake a moist, all-natural sort sweetened only by the Fruit and smooth Frosting, those looking for something a bit more ‘north’ are encouraged to check out the high-elasticity Kanelsnurre that partially resembles a Cinnamon Roll tinged in Cloves, the seasonal Blood Orange Spandaur a beautiful work of lamination with the Sourdough base playing well off the Jam and Marzipan at the center.
Setting aside three more Pastries for later, the two bowls of Porridge now arrived, persons bellying up to Grain Bar before 11am are offered a half-dozen options plus a variety of additions, the warmed-and-mixed-to-order Pearl Barley smooth and hearty with Seasonal Fruit and Preserves while the housemade Granola dialed up texture much like caramelized Rye did in the Ollebrod , a creamy and light concoction featuring the acidic punch of Sea Buckthorn.
Saving the rest for later, though honestly not by much, Sea Buckthorn was once again featured in a Streusel-topped Muffin that took a whole different approach to Carrot Cake by putting the base itself in a slightly sour context, the $3 Rye Bar something like a Financier with more spring and big chunks of Chocolate while the Chocolate Chip Cookie buttery and fragrant with a soft-set center and crispy rim.
http://greatnorthernfood.com/