Atoboy
Seaweed Crackers
Black Sea Bass – Spring Onion, Mint, Kiwi
Leek – Doenjang, Cheddar, Walnut
Corn – Taleggio, Bacon, Doenjang
Squid – Pork, Shrimp, Salsa Verde
White Rice, Seaweed Rice, Spicy Cabbage Kimchi, Apple Kimchi
Chicken – Spicy Peanut Butter, Garlic
Pork Jowl – Barley, Ssamjang, Cipollini Onion
Strawberry Cheese Mousse Cake – Pistachio, Mint
In a place like New York City, the haves and have-nots readily evident by any number of metrics as each try to chase their ‘American Dream’ on exceedingly competitive terrain, Atoboy sees former Jungsik Chef Junghyun Park currently getting his time in the spotlight along with wife and Manager Ellia, the $36 three-course menu of upscale Korean food well received by critics and locals alike.
Described as a “casual fine dining restaurant” serving family-style, those words fairly telling of a target market featuring folks used to dining at trendy spots with “chef-driven” this or “artisan” that, Atoboy is located at 43 East 28th Street and although it does not look like much from the outside its interior stretches back at least 150 feet from door to kitchen, the tables collected as two-seaters, four-tops and a few communal options with the service efficient and friendly, though getting them to explain certain preparations will occasionally require some effort.
Sort of a unique entry to the Flatiron, the pricepoint seemingly a good one though admittedly fairly high compared to other Korean restaurants found across the United States, it was after reservations were confirmed that three diners were led to a table along the painted-white bricks, the menu navigated after a bit of indecision and first bites soon delivered as a thin, briny pile of Seaweed Chips.
Known to change up their menu frequently, though a few signatures have already emerged as heavily recommended favorites amongst trustworthy local palates, it was after a somewhat protracted wait that the duo of Leeks in Soybean paste with Cheese and Black Sea Bass Tartare with Mint and Kiwi arrived, the former taking ‘funky’ to an almost David Chang level while still proving balanced while the fish was far too fishy to be enjoyable with the additional ingredients leaving behind a bizarre Mojito-eque finish.
Not particularly thrilled by round one, the second promising to be better based on friend’s assertions that the Corn was a highlight, it was with a small bowl of sweet Kernels again flavored by Doenjang that the meal brightened slightly, the rings of rubbery Calamari stuffed with Squid and Pork Sausage well matched to the flavor of Cilantro, Peppers and Salt though not enough to get two at the table past the texture.
Setting a stage for the main course with duos of Rice and Kimchi, the $2 upgrade well worth it when comparing saline Seaweed Rice to the standard white stuff, fans of heat will appreciate Chef Park’s resistance to the recent trend of Chefs turning the spice down, the Cabbage actually quite bracing while the Apple was a pleasant palate cleanser between bites of Tempura battered Chicken in Peanut Butter Sauce and crispy skinned bits of Pork Jowl made vibrant by Hot Pepper Paste but kept in check by White Rice, Onions and toasted Barley.
Recently moving Dessert from the three-choice menu and giving it a section all of its own, a choice the server suggested was financial because most patrons did not want to ‘use’ one of their $36 trio on something sweet, the meal ended with a $9 slice of Strawberry Cheesecake, the primary component a lightly whipped Mousse that comes across creamy without being over-sweetened while additional layers include Strawberry Pate de Fruit and a nutty green quarter inch that tastes like a Financier.
http://atoboynyc.com/
