108, Copenhagen DK

108

Sourdough, Danish Salt, Whipped ‘Cream’

Raw Lamb, Last Year’s Pickles

Brown Beech Mushrooms, Kelp, Smoked Egg Yolk Sauce

Braised Pork, Cream, Spring Truffle

Sorbet of Wild Black Currants, Preserved Pine, Hazelnut Milk

Never particularly wowed by photos from others at noma, though I have no doubt of Rene Redzepi’s passion or skill, it was with mild curiosity that a table was booked at 108 on Monday evening, the menu small enough that a few plates could be tasted without filling up before dinner at Kiin Kiin at 19h30.

Not claiming, pretending or attempting to be noma in any way, the idea instead an a la carte means for the Chefs to show off seasonal and preserved produce collected throughout the region by way simple plates that change day to day, 108 is named for its address on Strandgade across from the newly launched Barr that replaced the former “World’s #1 Restaurant,” the dining room opening each day at 17h00 though ‘The Corner’ next door is opened morning and afternoon with a smaller menu including Pastries, Sandwiches, Wine and Coffee.

Toqued by Kristian Baumann and situated in big room of blonde wood, concrete and oversized lightbulbs with an American Classic Rock Soundtrack, the service almost a bit *too* casual at times as waiters were plainly seen strolling around checking their cellular phones in the dining room, it was immediately as the restaurant opened that several guests checked in at the hostess’ stand, a two-top looking across the space proving comfortable enough and found adorned with enough silverware to last three courses.

Offering just a dozen items nightly, at least two of them large format dishes intended to be shared, it was after declining wine that three savories and a Dessert were requested, the water sold at a surcharge much like elsewhere and the total bill nearly $100USD for what was not only underwhelming food, but not a whole lot of it.

Starting off with Sourdough Bread and a spread described as “Whipped Cream,” the culturing process stopped early to allow for a lighter texture and robust sourness that went well with the surprisingly dense loaf, course one was on the table no more than five minutes after the order was placed, a finely ground round of Raw Lamb served atop Pickles pleasant in terms of texture but almost completely devoid of taste, a total lack of seasoning leaving the whole presentation sort of one note and the Protein itself lacking Lamb’s characteristic depth.

Only describing plates by ingredients, no real indication of preparation entailed, the next two savories could probably best be described as Bar Snacks at the cost of 50DKK per bite, the Tempura Brown Beech Mushrooms dusted in Kelp with Smoked Egg Yolk Sauce not close to as interesting as the unfried version at Geist that afternoon while the Braised Pork was dry and packed into oily Fritters topped with Cream and modestly flavored Spring Truffles.

Not particularly wowed by any of the Dessert descriptions, but willing to look for some reprieve in the one that sounded the least contrived, “Sorbet of Wild Black Currants, Preserved Pine and Hazelnut Milk” once again showed 108 offering mostly one-note flavors, the little frozen discs not particularly pleasant as they were quite acidic and icy while the Milk was served entirely unsweetened with the Pine coming through as a faint mint flavor at the end.

https://108.dk/restaurant/