Howlin’ Ray’s
Medium Half Bird – Breast + Wing + Leg + Thigh + Pickles
Medium Chicken Sando – Boneless Breast + Slaw + Comeback Sauce + Pickles + Butter Bun
Hot Chicken & Waffles – Leg + Thigh + Butter + Maple Syrup
Hot Shake Fries, Extra Pickles
Braised Collard Greens, Cider Vinegar Slaw, Extra Pickles
If one were to guess the cause of a three-plus hour line in Chinatown’s Far East Plaza it would not be unreasonable to assume Angelinos were losing their mind over a new Ramen concoction or Rainbow colored anything, yet despite its odd location Howlin’ Rays already has that sort of queue ninety minutes before the doors unlock, the group of guys with growlers of Craft Beer sitting at Picnic Tables having arrived first just past 8:45 that morning.
Nothing short of an overnight sensation, Los Angeles having hardly even heard of Nashville-style Hot Chicken prior to June 2015, Howlin’ Rays is the brainchild of Johnny Ray Zone and although most in his line have probably never had the opportunity to check out Prince’s, Hattie B’s or the original Gus’ – which has now invaded their backyard – it is fair to say that Chef Zone has not only taken the idea and run with it, but that he has also improved on the recipe in many ways.
Currently open just 11a-4p Wednesday through Sunday, though plans to expand the footprint of a tightly packed kitchen to the space next door may see that change, it is said that Johnny originally fell in love with Hot Chicken while working with Sean Brock during the early days of Husk’s Tennessee expansion and originally starting out as a truck it was in early 2016 that he and his wife located their storefront, the line slowly building day by day much to the Chef’s delight.
Still very much a hands-on Owner, back to the chaos with a big smile on his face as he expedites box after box in close quarters to a tiny ordering podium tucked into one corner, it is during the final minutes in line that diners finally start to smell the spices billowing out a door with traffic both coming and going, the team of eight working quick yet efficiently with Mary’s Organic Chicken in and out of the fryer at a breakneck pace that virtually guarantees every single box comes out so blistering hot that guests will still have to wait a few extra minutes to eat.
Drawing a diverse crowd, men and women of all ages and races lining up and then sitting down to experience what all the fuss is about, it was with two Chefs including one who previously worked with Johnny that three plates and four sides were shared, none foolish enough to don the white surgical gloves necessary to taste “X-Hot” or “Howlin’” and the majority of patrons likely to break a sweat with even just “Medium.”
Sourcing a superior Bird, the antibiotic-free organic Chickens from Mary’s a longtime fine dining standard, those familiar with Hot Chicken will quickly realize the difference in size between a Breast or Thigh at Howlin’ Rays versus those in Nashville as these are substantially larger with higher moisture content and a crackling skin beneath the batter, his use of freshly ground Cayenne and other Peppers in varying ratios creating a layered effect that is mild up front before picking up mid-palate like a good wine.
Joining the flocks of fans who feel Medium is best, the light tingle on lips plus a sinus-clearing burn still allowing one to enjoy sides including smoky Collard Greens, crispy French Fries and Vinegar Slaw or housemade Pickles that help to quell the heat, those who want to turn things up a notch may wish to consider the “Hot” option, a nearly two-fold increase in Scoville Units will leave most mouths numb, particularly if one were to place it in the setting of the “Chicken Sando” covered with Mississippi’s famous “Mayonnaise and Fire” Comeback Sauce.
Truly a raucous setting, the vibe not dissimilar to Franklin Barbeque in Austin where ownership is similarly invested in creating a shared ‘experience’ centered on food, those willing to brave the line on Weekends will be rewarded beyond Chicken and Sides by the only thing remotely ‘sweet’ made at Howlin Ray’s, the fluffy four-wedge Waffle served with a Quarter Bird, Boneless Breast or Wings for just $14 proving better than most in Los Angeles with Butter and Real Maple Syrup that makes an excellent dance partner to the hot and juicy Meat.
http://www.howlinrays.com
