Pizzana
Pignatiello – Neapolitan Sunday Gravy, Braised Short Rib, Fior di Latte, Parmigiano Crema, Basil
Neo Margherita – San Marzano DOP “Polpa,” Fior di Latte, Basil Crumb, Parmigiano, Basil
Lastra di Napoletana – Vanilla, Strawberry, Triple Chocolate Ice Cream, Fudge, Chocolate Cookie Cumb
Torta Al Cioccolato – Dark Chocolate Olive Oil Cake, Vanilla Ice Cream
When respected LA Times reviewer Jonathan Gold lost his mind over Brentwood’s Pizzana one could not help but take notice, the comparisons to Franco Pepe leaving some well-traveled gourmands who’ve been to both in stitches but enough to justify a reservation to see if Chef Daniele Uditi has really brought a world-class Pizzeria to The City of Angels.
Located on San Vicente Boulvard in one of the few parts of Los Angeles still lacking a restaurant worth traversing the city for, particularly with hotspots in Santa Monica and Beverly Hills on either side, Pizzana opened in April as a partnership between the team behind Sprinkles Cupcakes and George Clooney’s Robin, Chris O’Donnell, the space sleek and lengthy with high ceilings and the focal point an imported Wood-burning oven at the center of a marble and tile kitchen.
Dining as a duo after a four-stop morning with 9:00pm reservations at Vespertine, an aggressive eating agenda by any standard, it was just past four o’clock that the space was found largely empty and securing a meter down the way before walking in a choice of seats was offered, indoors proving to be best as several loud business-y sorts were gathered on the patio sipping Wine alongside Salads.
A stereotypical Los Angeles restaurant in terms of service, good looking waitresses and male models reciting recommendations like they are reading a script but unable to answer simple questions about “Sunday Gravy” that the young woman described as a ‘white sauce,’ it was with shoulders shrugged and intuition followed that the “signature” Neo Margherita and Pignatiello were ordered, a fifteen minute wait soon seeing two rounds of 48-hour fermented Dough delivered with steam still rising from the Crust and Cheese bubbling.
Waiting a few minutes for Pies to cool, a burned mouth before a lengthy and expensive dinner certainly in no one’s best interest, it was with a slice of the green-tinged Margherita that tasting got started, the leopard-spotted Crust smoky and stiff enough to maintain its structure when picked up but still puffy with yeastiness that helps carry the Basil and reduced San Marzanos aloft while the Pignatiello, in fact, features a slow cooked Meat Sauce fortified with Short Ribs beneath housemade Fior di Latte and Parmesan Cream.
No doubt complex pies, the layering of flavors and crust structure both speaking to a Pizzaiolo who understands his craft, it was with nearly every bite finished that the Dessert menu was perused after feeding the meter and although stomach capacity was indeed at a premium one simply does turn down Neapolitan Ice Cream or Olive Oil Cake at an Italian Restaurant, the former featuring Sprinkles Ice Cream good but a bit too sweet without the liberal addition of Bitter Dark Chocolate Fudge while the nearly black square with a thick layer of Frosting was rich yet light with a subtle fruity finish.
http://pizzana.com/
