The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.
Rebujito – Sherry Tonic Water and Orange Blossom Espuma
Idiazabal Macaron
Seta Surprise – Two textures of wild Chanterelle
Nitro Almond Cup – Marcona almond purée and Almas Aria caviar – (cup and filling in 2 texture of almond)
Squash Merengue – White Truffle Shavings and Cream
Barquillo – Anchovy and Truffle
Almejas Al Natural – Clams spheriphication with clam liqueur
Bocato de Bacalao – Fresh Cod Jowl on Bread
Crispy Chicken Skin in Escabeche – Chicken Skin Base, two chicken oysters, thyme air and thyme powder
Cava Sangria – Spheriphication with bits of fruit and herb suspended within a carbonated sphere
Artichoke ‘puree’ with Truffle – Vanilla Sabayon, Lemon Puree, Pork demiglace, Artichoke Heart, White Truffle
Lobster with Citrus and Jasmine – Lobster Sauce, Jasmine Air, Citrus Garnish
Chickpea Stew with Iberico Ham – Tender “chickpeas” floated on a silky, rich jamón ibérico broth, dotted with chorizo oil, parsley oil and olive oil (chickpeas were actually puréed and spherified)
Turbot with Bone Marrow – Marrow Tots, Blue Mountain Coffee (Filet was actually sous-vide with the skin crisped a la plancha and placed back on the fish along with crispy fins and sauce of bone marrow)
Whole Lobe of Foie Gras baked in Salt – bitter chocolate, confit grapefruit, basil flowers, clementine sauce
Secreto of Iberico Pork with Truffle – white truffle pork jus
Torta Pascualete with Cotton Candy – cheese from Spain, hazelnut brown butter and compressed cotton candy
Flan – with oranges and ice (Creamsicle)
Pan Con Chocolate with Truffle – Saffron Espuma, Crystalized Bread, Frozen Chocolate Powder, Maldon Sea Salt, Shredded White Truffle, Olive Oil
Aroz Con Leche – Rice Pudding in a crispy sugar cone
Truffle Cotton Candy – Edible gold, truffle oil, truffle salt, sliced truffle
25 Second Bizcocho – Almond Cake with Cream Filling and Saffron Chocolate – Milk Chocolate with Saffron and Maldon Sea Salt
Catalonian Porron with Lemon Beer
After the thinkfoodgroup stiffed me last minute on a minibar reservation I had every reason to boycott their restaurants for all time yet given the strong reviews of the restaurant-within-a-restaurant é by Jose Andres at Jaleo I simply could not resist the temptation…especially when I learned that Jose himself would be in town at Christmas when the restaurant was hosting a truffle-centric extended tasting for five days only. Pricey to be sure, part due to the luxury ingredients and part due to the location and exclusivity, this was one of those reservations that required a signed contract and pre-payment and the sort that came with great anticipation…it even came with a golden ticket just to get you in the door…and it was worth it.
Without a doubt one of my five best meals in 2012 the eve of Christmas Eve bled into the early hours of the 24th as I sat with one other man from Arizona and a family of six from the Carolinas as Andres and his team sent out twenty three courses of elegant, fun, and mostly delicious cuisine ranging from a meringue of squash that disappeared like a magic trick in the mouth flooding the palate with the intense perfume of truffles to a thick slice buttery foie gras rendered refreshing though the use of citrus juxtaposing dark chocolate.
Presented by a kitchen of four acting as both chefs and servers while the maître d made his way around the room pouring exotic wines (a $200+ pairing) for my dining partners and unlimited bottled water (a mere $
for myself service throughout the experience was truly exemplary – each dish with a story and inspiration described at length and timing impeccable. Surely adding to the meal were the strangers with whom I dined, the wine taking its toll and everyone joyful in the season, and no more so than when the kitchen passed around a porron before dessert – myself missing a few drops at the beginning but performing admirably while some did far better…and some FAR worse…as everyone laughed along.
Having enjoyed thinkfoodgroup’s food in the past but generally not the service é by Jose Andres turned out to be everything I’d hoped for; a truly memorable meal that warrants both the price and the praise – a seemingly rarer and rarer occurrence in fine dining, particularly in Las Vegas.