PVDonuts
Honey Cruller
Linzer Cookie Donut
Vietnamese Coffee Donut
Coffee Crumb Cake Donut
Caramel Pecan Brownie Donut
Caramel Macchiato Donut
Pistachio Pavlova Donut
Crème Brulee Donut
Opened in the days before Memorial Day 2016 it did not take long for PVDonuts to establish a name for itself in Providence and although the Nation’s smallest state may not be the culinary destination that is New York, Maine or Massachusetts there isn’t a bit of doubt that the small shop at 79 Ives Street is turning out better Doughnuts than any of them.
Owned and operated by Paul and Lori Kettelle, the former a self-described entrepreneur and his wife responsible for many of the shop’s opening lineup that has since expanded incrementally by the season, guests visiting PVDonuts at any time from eight o’clock until 4:00pm Wednesday through Sunday can anticipate a line, the team of young ladies behind the counter busy but exceedingly pleasant and happy to answer questions whether boxing Pastries, pouring Coffee or preparing the bill.
Reportedly begun as a lighthearted conversation about the Providence dining scene after a visit to The Holy Donut in Maine, Lori subsequently developing a 24-hour fermented Brioche base that comes across rich and eggy without much intrinsic sugar, it was after quickly outgrowing other locations that PVDonuts relocated to its current confines decorated in clever signs and artwork, a total of nearly two-dozen options on any given day running the gamut from Raised and Cake to Crullers or even a few Vegan selections.
Charging $2.50-$3.50 per item, the sizable fried rings a far better deal than most “artisan” shops around the nation, it was after standing back and allowing others to make their purchases that the decision was made to invest in eight Donuts, another half-dozen highly desirable choices omitted thanks to a lack of stomach space and additional dining plans while in town.
Certainly not a “typical” doughnutry, the expected Glazed and Chocolate Rings present but gussied up while creativity elsewhere expands across international borders, it was immediately upon seating that a still-warm Cruller was tasted, the interior wispy but rich with Eggs and sweetened by Honey without being compromised by oil like the inexplicably famous $3.50 version at Danny Meyer’s Daily Provisions.
Progressing from lightest to heaviest in terms of flavor, though not texture, it was again toward France that Donut number two looked for inspiration, the flavor of buttery Shortbread infusing a sliced Cake base sandwiching housemade Raspberry Jam while the follow-up Pistachio Pavlova was a bit unwieldy to eat due to its height, but worth making a mess for thanks to soft Meringue and subtly sweet Frosting.
Transitioning back to Cake, the fact that each Donut of this style seems to use a different base perhaps the most surprising fact about PVDonuts, suffice it to say that fans of Coffee Cake should not miss Lori’s lightly fried version topped with Cinnamon Streusel while Chocoholics will be delighted by Dark Cocoa notes beneath Caramel and crushed Nuts titled Caramel Pecan Brownie on the current Winter menu.
Cleansing the palate with Crème Brulee, the shattering Sugar and creamy Custard as close to the classic Dessert as any Donut tasted to date, it was finally in two Coffee-inspired Donuts that tasting came to an end, the Caramel Macchiato Brioche about as Espresso-laden as the sugary Starbucks beverage while the Vietnamese Coffee Cake Donut was slightly bitter and so close to the real deal in terms of flavor that those with a low Caffeine tolerance may not want to indulge past noon for fear of laying awake in bed at night.
www.pvdonuts.com
