Ox, Portland OR

Ox – http://oxpdx.com/

Bread with Chimichurri

Cream of Mushroom soup with smoked paprika oil (Amuse)

Bruschetta of Dungeness Crab, Avocado, Radish, Cucumber, Shiso

Wood Fired House Ricotta, Button Mushroom Confit, Balsamic Brown Butter, Grilled Bread

Fresh Clam Chowder, Smoked Marrow Bone, Green Onion, Jalapeno

Heirloom Hominy, Braised Pork Belly, Cilantro, Chiles, Olive Oil Fried Duck Egg

Maple Glazed Heirloom Carrots, Briar Rose Chevre, Tarragon, Truffle Salt Pistachio

Torte – Warm Hazelnut Brown Butter Torte, Honey-Chamomile Ice Cream, Honeycomb Candy

Cake – Vanilla Bean Tres Leches Cake, Roasted Banana Pudding, Dulce de Leche Alfajor Cookie

Stumptown Coffee

As great as my trip to Portland would prove to be, there was little doubt in my mind shortly after I exited Greg and Gabrielle Quiñónez Denton’s “Ox” en route to the Rose Garden for a Trailblazers game that it would probably be the best meal of the trip – and, barring a truly stellar year, one of the best meals of 2013. Perhaps not surprising given the strong word of mouth and multiple awards bestowed on the Argentine restaurant what I experienced during my ninety minute visit thrilled plate after plate and bite after bite.

A surprisingly large space despite its small façade, Ox is a no reservations spot – both literally in that you line up at the door when they open or risk waiting – and figuratively in that one should have no reservations about anything on the menu; if it sounds good, order it – and if the stellar servers suggest you ordered too much ignore them; you can always take some home or leave a few bites on the table…or prove them wrong and order dessert as well, much to the amusement of your neighbors who you’ll likely make friends with quickly given the cramped quarters and convivial atmosphere.

Dark woods with an enormous open hearth near the entry I was offered a place at the fire but having heard the space can get quite warm I opted for the window instead, a good choice as the bartenders both proved knowledgeable, friendly, and efficient – offering advice on plates and happy to oblige when I ignored them, eventually selecting five savories and two desserts plus a soft and supple bread service with fiery Chimichurri.

Served in pairs with the creamy amuse arriving moments before the a slice of thick, toasty bread bountifully topped with sweet crab balanced by vegetal flavors both creamy and bitter but brought to the fore by shiso things started well and only improved from there as the smoky ricotta platter was more than enough to share given its richness but at the same time a perfect point/counterpoint to Ox’s famous clam chowder; an acid powered and spicy take on the classic with the marrow adding its unctuous flavor to the thin broth and tender, briny clams.

Opting against the larger main plates to sample a greater variety my last two plates would continue the trend of the prior courses as the hominy truly tested my heat tolerance; the egg yolk and crispy pork requisite to keep the acid and spice in check but still a dish hot enough to have me sweating while the carrots natural sweetness was brought into sharp focus by the maple yet kept in check by the savory cheese as the tarragon took a back seat, lingering on the palate. Not to be missed, desserts at Ox stand up just as well as the savories – both selections sweet and substantial with varying temperatures and textures, but the dense torte the better of the two given the dense toothsomeness of the cake and crunchy honeycomb…though when broken down to individual components I’d have gladly just eaten a bowl of the roasted banana pudding, as well.

Totaling far less than $100 after tip (no sales tax in Oregon) my only problem with Ox was that I attended solo and did not have the chance to sample as much as I wish I could have…well, that and the fact that I spent so much more on other meals during my trip when I could have and should have simply gone back to experience more of Chef Denton’s inspired and innovative cuisine and truly impressive service.