Little Bird – http://littlebirdbistro.com/
House Bread with Butter
Sauternes Haut Charmes, 2009 Bordeaux
Salt Cod Croquettes with Meyer Lemon Remolade, Pepper Jam
Roasted Quail with Truffled Foie Gras Stuffing, Grape Chutney
Charcuterie Board with Lamb Rillette/Truffled Peas, Foie Gras Brulee/Apricot-Sauternes Jam, Tete de Cochon Croquette/Cured Egg Yolk, Chicken Liver Mousse/Truffled Shallots, Duck Ham, Pickles, Pork Rind, Pickled Quail Egg
Pain D’Epices with Gingerbread, Pineapple Sherbet, Dulce de Leche
Apple Croustade with Gruyere Ice Cream, 30 year balsamic
Stumptown Hair Bender
Apple Cider Macaron
Thoroughly impressed by Le Pigeon the night prior I entered Little Bird Bistro to find the restaurant equally abuzz to its more expensive counterpart – so much so, actually, that the table I’d reserved was still occupied leaving me to wait or take a seat at the bar; the later my obvious choice, particularly as the slick copper topped space was much quieter than the actual restaurant and additionally afforded a limited view of the kitchen.
Greeted by the bartender, and subsequently by one of the servers from Le Pigeon the night before, it would be mere moments before a baguette identical to the one the night prior arrived along with a glass of water and the menu – a wide selection of bistro classics featuring Rucker’s characteristic twists, at least a ten which sounded great but two that truly stood out along with the ‘must-order’ house made charcuterie board – a well earned distinction as the thick wooden slab arrived with half a dozen exemplary meats, each paired with dynamic accoutrements as well as house made pork rinds and pickled quail eggs. From bold and briny duck ham to the intensely sweet foie gras straight on to the crispy and entirely funky head cheese each and every selection was excellent – and all the better paired with a glass of Sauternes suggested by my bartender.
Moving from the meats to a pair of small plates I requested items come out one at a time and with the creamy, salty brandade croquettes followed by the a crispy quail every bit as good as Robuchon’s Atelier classic (at 1/3 the price) my initial impression held true; these guys absolutely nail the classics while the accoutrements, particularly the musty and pungent chutney balanced out the bird’s richness without overwhelming it at all.
At this point trying to decide between another savory or a pair of desserts I opted for the sweets menu and found my answer immediately – the wintery spice bread clearly themed after traditional fruit cake but lacking all the disastrous candied fruits and instead focused on fresh pineapples and salty caramel while the apple tart was flaky, buttery perfection topped off with tangy cheese ice cream and just enough balsamic vinegar to add a touch of acid; to this point it remains one of my most memorable desserts of 2013.
Far less cramped than its older brother and perhaps more accessible for those desiring dressed up French Bistro classics I’d be hard pressed to name a more enjoyable bistro experience stateside than what I experienced at Little Bird and much like Le Pigeon the restaurant ranks very highly on my “to return to soon” list.