Mucci’s Italian
Roman Pizza with Pepperoni
Locatelli Biscuit
Chocolate Raised Doughnut
Lemon Bombolone Doughnut
Nutella Mascarpone Doughscuit
Owned and operated by Tim Niver, the brains also behind Saint Dinette and Minneapolis’ Meyvn, it was shortly after Mucci’s Italian unlocked doors on Saturday that guests began to file in, the otherwise Italian space opened in Winter 2016 appearing far older than that date would indicate but everything about the Weekend’s early morning offerings suggesting these folks know how to please a crowd regardless of date or time.
Toqued by Chef Chris Uhrich since opening, past time at now-shuttered Strip Club Meat & Fish spurring an interest in Brunch that in the case of Mucci’s takes an atypical approach, it is upon entering the normally table-service Restaurant that diners are invited to approach the counter, a youthful team of smiling ladies ready to explain an ever-changing collection anchored by Donuts but also offering Pizza and Biscuits.
Not the sort of place for shortcuts, a brief glimpse of the evening menu revealing interesting Primi and Red Sauce Classics alongside Pizza Montanara, it was after listening to a full detailing of the morning’s offerings that an order was crafted to sample one of each style, a collection of five items each delivered temperature appropriate with the rewarmed-slice of Roman style Pie immediately impressive thanks to a crisp base and plenty of leavening beneath tangy Sauce, quality Mozzarella and slightly curled Pepperoni.
Eschewing a Cheese Donut in favor of one of Mucci’s Biscuits next, Pecorino Romano considered to be one of Italy’s best adding salinity and light stretch to an otherwise excellent Buttermilk base, it was following this that things got sweeter, a raised and glazed Ring with Chocolate Frosting and its Hole on Top proving light and fluffy like the Pizza Dough before it while another rolled in Sugar and piped with Lemon Cream trumped any Bombolini in recent memory both in terms of size and levity.
Certainly not leaving without tasting one of Muccis’s celebrated “Doughscuits,” a tough decision between Nutella and Honey Granola made easier by a warning that the latter also featured Chili Oil, suffice it to say that although not as light as the rest this hybrid is every-bit as crave-worthy as the Cronut or Cruffn thanks to substantial layering and plenty of Butter even as the exterior remains virtually oilless.
www.muccisitalian.com
