Sullivan St. Bakery
Uovo Brioche – Soft Cooked Egg, Crisp Prosciutto
Tomato Strecci
Roman Style Pizza a Taglio Pomodoro
Dolce Canotto – Brioche, Blueberries, Mascarpone Cheese, Coconut Crumble
Chocolate Chip Walnut Cookie
Raspberry Bomboloni
Familiar with Jim Lahey’s Bread from tables across Manhattan as well as his Pizza at Co. it was early Saturday morning that three guests sat down at Sullivan St. Bakery, the Hell’s Kitchen location having recently undergone renovations and now serving Breakfast in addition to classics offered since 1994.
Born out of Lahey’s self-taught method and made famous by The New York Times, the No-Knead Recipe now a staple of many homes and expounded on in best-selling Cookbooks, it was at 8:30am that the store at 533 West 47th Street was found largely empty, staff quietly stacking shelves with fresh items including seasonal Panettone and Loaves both sweet and savory.
A recipient of The James Beard Foundation’s first “Outstanding Baker” award in 2015, and widely recognized as one of America’s foremost authorities on the topic, it was after lengthy perusal of options that six choices were bought and paid for, the total of $23.50 appropriate by Manhattan standards though the $4 Bomboloni without much Jam was a substantial disappointment.
Moving next to savories, only the recently debuted Uovo Brioche warmer than room-temperature, suffice it to say that those who prefer their Eggs cooked past runny should probably look elsewhere as Sullivan Street takes “soft cooked” literally in contrast to crispy Pork while Roman Pizza and leavened Strecci both wow in terms of texture and their ability to make simplicity so delicious.
Transitioning back to sweet, Lahey’s Chocolate Chip Cookie not as large or chewy as those from Levain, Schmackary’s or Chip, it was fortunate that Breakfast ended with an item described as “Dolce Canotto,” the same springy Brioche previously surrounding Ham and Eggs here found split and lightly soaked by Blueberries and Mascarpone beneath what tasted like a crumbled Italian Macaroon.
www.sullivanstreetbakery.com/hells-kitchen
