St. Anselm
Quattro Mani “Toh-Kai” 2008 from Primorie Slovenia
Pan Fried Mashed Potatoes
Three Eggplants – Thai, Italian, Japanese with Chevre
Bobo Chicken – Tea Brined and Grilled
House made Vanilla Ice Cream with Pork Cracklin’ Brittle and Chocolate Sauce
They don’t have a website, they don’t take reservations, and they don’t use any fancy tools or tricks yet the team at St. Anselm – from my server named Margo to Chef Yvon de Tassigny and his two sous-chefs – managed to produce one of the most wholly enjoyable experiences on my most recent trip to New York. Small, loud, and decidedly warm from my vantage at the chef’s counter a concise menu was presented and without a cocktail list I decided what I would eat and allowed the bartender to suggest my drink – an orange wine full of minerality but light sweetness – and from there I sat back and watched the team turn out plate after plate of perfectly grilled cuisine, from crunchy cauliflower to enormous tomahawks, until my order came up – a troika of savories that rank amongst the best I’ve ever had in their respective categories; the eggplants smoky but tinged with brine from the cheese, the chicken crunchy and golden yet moist and rich, and the potatoes a buttery masterpiece inside of a crunchy hash brown shell. Happy, and with more dinner plans to follow, dessert was almost ignored until it was offered on the house; a simple sundae with the rich vanilla ice cream garnished with Mast Brothers chocolate sauce and house made caramelized pork skin…how could anyone say no?
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