Already a fan of CRAFTkitchen from past visits, Jaret Blinn’s baked goods amongst the best in town, it was for a Saturday clinic that six new items plus two classics were collected, a 6:30am pick-up showing the team already prepping for another busy Saturday serving the citizens of Las Vegas and Henderson.
Taking the items in three large boxes, most of the goods still warm, it was between patients that each of the items was tasted and whether one prefers extra sweet or something more mild CRAFTkitchen offers something for all tastes, the city’s best Cinnamon Roll and Sticky Bun both featuring golden curls of pastry with plenty of spring to the interior wrapped around butter and cinnamon lingers long after the Caramel Frosting or Sugar Glaze.
Moving on to novelties, Jaret’s Poptarts one-upping the commercial original by some degree at the Chefseries Potluck, a seasonal switch to local Apricots and Peaches shined particularly strongly inside of their warm pockets and although the Lemon Poppy Seed Pound Cake came off a touch dry compared to CRAFTkitchen’s other efforts the decision between two Coffee Cakes largely comes down to whether one craves fruit or chocolate, the Mixed Berry mostly filled with bursting Blueberries on this visit while the alternative tasted a lot like and Almond Joy with toasted Coconut providing smooth finishing notes.
No doubt a baker of considerable talent, Chef Blinn’s Kouign Amann rivaling Johnathan Pluvinet’s Croissants at Rosallie for Sin City’s best laminated pastries, Jaret has seemingly found his fastball in recent iterations of the Breton Butter Pastry, one with a Nutella packed core amongst the most decadent versions of the pastry found to date while the light Almond Cream cooks to an almost Nougat like center that is smooth and rich, but not particularly sweet.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Long overdue for a return visit, the weekend specials always an impetus to come back even as the menu has not changed dramatically in recent months, CRAFTkitchen has accomplished more in its first year of existence than many local restaurants do in their lifecycle largely as a result of the Blinn family’s passion and skill – if you have not been, now is as good of a time as ever to find out what so many others already know.
TIP: For those interested in Catering or Private dining, don’t hesitate to contact the restaurant with inquiries, their Social Media feeds frequently offering glimpses of what the CRAFTkitchen team is capable of.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Unable to call myself anything less than an unapologetic ‘fan’ of Portofino, the management by Chris Zadie and cooking of Michael LaPlaca wowing ever since first walking through the wine-wall shrouded door, it was with two friends that the Summer 2016 menu was explored at length this past Saturday Evening, the Chef’s time spent reinventing another Mirage property having done nothing to diminish the quality of Las Vegas’ best Italian Fine Dining concept.
At this point a known entity on several “best of” lists, MGM’s decision to put Michael’s name on the marquee still an unprecedented move that matters more than tourists or locals seem to think, Portofino’s seasonal menu arrived later than intended as a result of several circumstances, yet still managing to reinvent, tweak or fully re-imagine nearly a dozen items the impetus to return remains as strong as ever, not to mention the signatures that continue to be great.
Seated at a different table than usual, but still served family-style at the discretion of Chef LaPlaca and Chris, the meal began with the first of two baskets of Olive Oil soaked Focaccia and opting to indulge in one of the newly launched Barrel-Aged cocktails the Margarita based on Patron Tequila specifically made for The Mirage was a poignant yet balanced classic that slowly changed as ice melted while still maintaining a semi-sweet, citrus edge.
Not really retooling the anti-pasti too much, the case of ‘if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it’ perhaps in play, course one saw four Portofino classics presented in demi-portions with the novel Market Melon Salad singing beneath candied Marcona Almonds, Ricotta Salata and a splash Vinegar while the ‘Arancini,’ Meatballs and Caprese continued to set a high standard, the Octopus a bit less heated in the past which actually allowed the cephalopod to take on a smoky ‘steak like’ flavor that competes with Carnevino and Estiatorio Milos for the Valley’s best.
Well known for the pastas, “Ripatelli” famously invented by LaPlaca and remaining a signature regardless of the ragu, Summer sees the torn noodles topped in roasted Tomatoes, Goat Cheese and Pesto, the Burrata Agnolotti that supposedly landed the Chef his job as rich and elegant as ever while the Linguini and Clams Rockefeller delivers on the promise of its name with Littleneck Clams swimming in a light sauce of Butter, Spinach and poignant notes of Anise.
Continuing to impress with filled pastas, another newcomer to Portofino is Chef LaPlaca’s Ravioli filled with tender Pork Cheek amidst fresh Peas and Carrot Puree, each bite a complex blend of sweet and savory that was only topped in texture by melt-in-the-mouth Gnocchi that saw robust notes of grilled Onions and Garlic mellowed by Artichokes and rich Frog Leg meat.
Slowly learning to accept Salmon, the ‘safety net’ for fussy diners found on nearly every menu in town, Potofino’s new version offers a fun look at the fish with seasoned Popcorn playing off Pancetta, Peppers and Mushrooms while a succulent “Silent” Rack of Lamb continues to speak of a restaurant with a sense of humor, the pounded Veal a far more *serious* plate that rings in several dollars cheaper than an inferior version at Carbone, the braised Veal with Saffron Risotto still the only version in the city that might trump Ferraro’s.
Rounding out the evening with dessert, Mr. Zadie promising that this part of the menu will finally be updated soon, Sorbets and Gelato continue to show well alongside a Tiramisu that seemed a bit underflavored on this particular evening, the pudding-think Crème Brulee faring far better as did a simple Chocolate Cake that is mistakenly listed as Bread Pudding on the website menu.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Slowly gaining momentum with locals and outsiders alike, the service under Chris Zadie and cooking of Chef LaPlaca each on par with the city’s very best, one hopes that Portofino’s popularity will continue to grow as time goes on and that MGM brass will realize that the future of the city’s dining relevance lies in embracing local talents rather than New York City imports…and that maybe they’ll even someday hire the restaurant a dedicated pastry Chef.
TIP: Announcing that they are already at work on the Fall Menu, a launch expected in September, those interested in any of the seasonal updates are encouraged to act quickly, though if last Autumn was any indication there is no doubt the next season will prove equally compelling.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Samples – Mario’s Chocolate Gelato, Bowser’s Dragon Berry Tart, Rocket Pop Sorbet, Madagascar Vanilla Bean, Pistachio, Strawberry, Peanut Butter.
$6 Cup – Pecans & Pralines with Chocolate Coconut Macarons and Nutter Butters, Chocolate Cookie Bowl Divider, Toad’s Rocky Road with Brownie Bits and Marshmallow Sauce
Generally not one to seek out Frozen Yogurt, Ice Cream or Gelato certainly more befitting personal tastes, a childhood rooted in the 80s could not resist the nostalgia offered by Nintendo themed classics offered throughout summer at Yogurtlands across the nation, a stop at the location at 9516 West Flamingo Road proving to be a pleasant surprise.
Based on the concept of “real ingredients,” including antibiotic and hormone free milk, Yogurtland was started in Fullerton California in the mid-2000s and having since expanded by way of franchising to several states across the nation the flavors have grown similarly, over 200 available with an online program allowing patrons to search for their favorites by zip code.
Not exceedingly different from other Fro-Yo joints in layout, a dozen or so flavors sold by weight with all sorts of mix-ins and toppings available, it was with friendly greeting from the lone employee that I was welcomed on entry, small paper cups offered for samples from which Mario’s Chocolate Gelato ate like a dense pudding while the Dragon Berry Tart and Rocket Pop Sorbet were each very refreshing.
Wanting to try complimentary flavors, but wary of mixing them and compromising the tastes as the temperature outdoors eclipsed 105°F, a “cookie divider” proves to be a clever option not seen previously and opting for one-half Pecans & Pralines with the other Toad’s Rocky Road there is no doubt the “Flavorologists” are doing their diligence in terms of tasting and formulation, the former a straight-out-of-the-South flavor while the later was creamy and smooth all on its lonesome, but even better with the addition of chewy brownie bites and Marshmallow topping.
FOUR STARS: Taking into account the cost, convenience and customization Yogurtland is easily the best Frozen Yogurt Shop I have visited in an admittedly limited sampling, a childhood spent thinking three daily flavors of soft-serve from a local joint called Mel O Cream was a great summertime treat now seeming like the Dark Ages.
RECOMMENDED: Pecans & Pralines, Toad’s Rocky Road, Bowser’s Dragon Berry Tart, Rocket Pop Sorbet, Strawberry.
AVOID: Pistachio and Peanut Butter both have an odd aftertaste that I did not personally enjoy, the flavors themselves overly sweet representations of the nuts themselves.
TIP: Due to roll out more flavors including Mocha, Peach and more as summer rolls on, fans of kitsch will find the collection of character themed spoons just as charming as the flavors themselves.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Wheat Roll with Housemade Apricot and Strawberry Preserves
Butter Croissant
Almond Croissant
Returning from another lengthy trip full of great food, planning for the next began in earnest with three friends on a Saturday morning at Rosallie Le French Café, Jonathan Pluvinet’s French pasties having impressed co-workers when the Chef made a special delivery the prior Monday and continuing to outperform any other in city to this day.
Slowly and smartly expanding his menu, a few oddities like cannoli not seeming to fit the concept – though the Gluten Free Chocolate Muffin was a hit with those who snagged one at work, Rosallie the store has also continued to evolve as the wine rack is now ready-in-wait for bottles while the soundtrack has veered to the Chef’s homeland instead of iheartradio hits.
Sitting at a four-top soon to be flooded with food, more than a half new items presented along with a mellow chocolate latte that should please fans of both good coffee and cocoa alike, old stand-bys like Pluvinet’s Butter and Almond Croissants continue to set the bar high for the rest of the city while Madelines could only be better if warm from the oven, housemade Apricot Jam from local fruit as good on them as it is on the toothsome roll with which it is provided.
Always experimenting with new savory ideas, the vast majority outshowing their pricepoint in terms of ingredient quality, portion and skill, the Tartiflette Quiche presents the traditional flavors of Tarte Flambee in an eggy custard atop all-butter pastry, the Croque Rosallie showing the quality of Jonathan’s Croissants as they hold up to Ham, Bechamel and Mozzarella, though one does wonder if more traditional Swiss or Emmentaler Cheese would make for a more complex flavor.
Acknowledging that Nutella is not “traditional,” though patrons seem to love it, Rosallie’s Nutella Croissant is every bit as good as the Almond version when it comes to structure and in a world where everything from Baklava to Butter Pecan and Guava Cheese comes in laminated pastry form it would honestly be interesting to see what else the young Frenchman can come up with in the future, a Black Forest Cake good for what it is as fruit and chocolate prove complimentary, a ‘better choice’ between the lemon meringue tart and summer berries with frangipane really a matter of personal preference, though *both* would probably be best.
FIVE STARS: While all sorts of dining remain a matter of taste, it would be nearly impossible to suggest any French Bakery in Las Vegas is executing on remotely the same level as Rosallie at this time, and still less than one year opened under the care of an owner with so much passion one simply must wonder how much better it will get.
RECOMMENDED: Almond Croissant, Nutella Croissant, Quiche, Lemon Tart, Summer Berry Tart, Apricot Preserves.
AVOID: N/A, though I personally would like to see a more flavorful cheese on the Croque.
TIP: Dinner service and many more ideas are in the works, including the possible offering of some of Chef Pluvinet’s goods elsewhere in town.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Vermont Quail Kebob, Baharat Spice, Barberries, Jasmine Rice and Pistachio
Turkish-Style Profiteroles—Brown Butter Crème, Sesame Caramel, Cashew, Halva
Orange Blossom Baba – Poached Strawberries, Mint-Pea Ice Cream, Pistachio
Whether as a result of the Mediterranean tapas, a peaceful garden patio or the significant talents of Chef Ana Sortun, Oleana has been thrilling Boston diners ever since opening its doors in 2001, the subsequent opening of Sarma doing little to diminish the buzz around what is still one of the most coveted reservations in town.
Multiply awarded for everything from service to food to setting, bold flavors invigorating local ingredients to put a unique spin on traditional Mezze and dishes predominantly from Greece, walk-ins are generally reasonable for the bar or small front dining area assuming early arrival and with greetings from a hostess just past 6:30pm a small two-top was suggested, the wood benches oddly similar to those at Bondir while sliding pads hung from the wall to offer some back support.
No doubt a diverse set of offerings, the best way to dine obviously sharing with a sizable group, it warrants mention that even solos are well suited to enjoy Chef Sortun’s creations and after listening to the rundown of daily specials a dialogue with the waiter showed him to be a wealth of knowledge on several plates’ composition, the eventual trio of three savories satiating but still leaving room for two desserts.
Expediting from a small kitchen, wait-times for food after ordering stretching up to forty minutes, a quick perusal of the dining area speaks to diversity of age, race and gender, the bag of two Breads and good Olive Oil sorely tempting and soon finding itself put to good use with a bowl of intensely pink Hummus served without Pita, but instead as a smoothly textured salad tied together by Urfa, Greens and Seeds.
More leftward skewed in price-to-portion ratio than Sarma, the $13 “Kebobs” featuring a mere mouthful of Quail atop a soft Rice Cake teaming with spices under a crunchy Pistachio crust, better value was found in the scalding hot Moussaka still sizzling in the vessel which it was made in, the lamb thankfully allowed to show off its natural flavor despite the flavors of Sesame, Citrus and Fava Beans without the more commonly seen melted Cheese.
Passing on the signature Baked Alaska on account of Passion Fruit, instead opting for another famous dessert in the Turkish-Style Profiteroles plus a seasonal syrup-soaked Cake, the rumors of Pastry Chef Maura Kilpatrick’s skills proved quite accurate as relates to both preparations, the former punching up the texture of Cream filled Donuts by way of crushed Candy and Cashews in a slick of Caramel while the latter offered a soft sponge saturated in sweetness with Strawberries, crumbled Pistachios and refreshing “Mint-Pea” Ice Cream.
Opened by Jason Bond in 2010 and still one of Massachusetts’ most celebrated farm-to-table restaurants today, Bondir has received almost universal praise ever since opening and although only 28 seats with a single nightly menu, a recent visit showed the restaurant every bit on par with the Mentons and L’Espaliers in terms of its execution, now under the direction of Chef de Cuisine Pierce Kelly.
Often described as an unexpected location, the tiny Broadway storefront across from some sort of upcoming Bar or Brewpub presenting convenient access to both Harvard and MIT, entry to Bondir sees diners face-to-face with a small hostess podium adjacent fireplace and small waiting area, the dining room extending back to the kitchen with wooden pews lined up around the edges and chairs at the center.
Not particularly a comfortable setting, though pillows do help cushion the bottom while wide spacing and soft music shield the sound from surrounding diners, each night sees the Chef create a different tasting based on availability of products, and although accommodations are made for allergies or indiscretions the best course of action for most is to trust the Chef’s discretion, giving the kitchen their complete trust.
Going great lengths to present a menu in tune with the season, wines offered as pairings or by the bottle for those who choose to imbibe, palates were cleansed by way of a herbal Mead on this particular evening and doing best to limit the housemade Sourdough it bears mention that this will be harder than usual thanks to the cultured Butter that itself would warrant its own “course” in trendier restaurants, an opening course of Heirloom Tomatoes in Rice Milk with Pea Shoots instead officially kicking of the degustation with the inspired addition of sizable Raspberries tip-toeing a fine line between sour and sweet.
Getting fresher by the minute by way of Squash Blossoms, some gently charred while others were fried crisp beneat, course two complimented the Courgettes with crumbled Pistachios and whole Blueberries dressed in garden Herbs and Garlic, the follow-up of thinly sliced Scallops delivering their intrinsic sweetness alongside similarly layers of Potatoes beneath Salsa Verde and local Bee Pollen.
More substantially portioning each plate than the typical “Tasting Menu Only” venue, course four presented Locally caught Striped Bass in Dashi with ribbons of Seaweed and aromatic oils of Chili and Garlic, the light linger on the lips soon to washed away by Cucumber Sorbet with Yogurt, candied Sunflower components and a crunchy Brittle a texture like Granola but the flavor of Root Vegetables.
A two-restaurants-in-one space on the Campus of MIT, Area Four has been a Technology Square favorite ever since opening its doors, and with a café on one side plus an American-Style restaurant with a focus on Pizza on the other the menu runs a gamut from coffee and pastries to things more substantial, an al fresco dining space and plenty of willing customers keeping servers busy throughout the day.
Oddly designed in an area where such architecture seems to be the rule, several campus buildings soaring upward or awkwardly leaning toward the street, entry to Area Four can take place though either of the dining spaces and wish floor-to-ceiling windows flooding both with early-Summer light the far less busy Café proves a worthwhile spot for those looking to chat or study with a Latte while the taller dining room turns both the music and the tempo up.
Serving brunch on weekends, dinner and lunch on weekdays with the Sandwiches or Pastries starting at 7am, what may not be known is that To-Go options from the dining room are also welcomed in the Wi-Fi enabled connected Café and although wait-times may be substantial the Hostess and General Manager both seem dedicated to running a tight ship as servers buzz around the floor.
Taking a seat in the Café after browsing the pastries, a bold Cold Brew on Ice selected to pair with a trio of sweets, it was with a next-door menu requested that the ‘simplest’ of items was requested, the wood-oven Margherita soon to arrive and thoroughly out-performing expectations as puddles of Mozzarella met hand-crushed Tomato sauce atop the charred crust with large air-pockets generated by way of a 30+ hour ferment.
Not certain if baked goods are produced by the same wood-burning oven as the pies, though it seems unlikely for anything except perhaps a robust-shelled Croissant that made up with the natural flavor of sliced Almonds what it lacked in lamination, Area Four continues to show strongly by way of the toothsome Corn Muffin pocketed by bursting Blueberries while a Florentine Bar riffs on the classic Italian Cookie with all the requisite notes of Fruit and Nuts set on a Dark Chocolate and Shortbread base.
Present on several Best New Restaurant lists both local and nationwide, Cambridge’s Alden & Harlow was selected for Saturday brunch largely based on a menu that seems to fly in the face of conformity almost for the sake of proving that the “New American” movement need not be so stagnant, the concept at times hitting a homerun by way of experimentation while other compositions seem to be trying too hard to be creative.
Located at 40 Brattle Street, an underground space that expands much further than one would guess from the exterior, Alden & Harlow opened in 2014 and under the toque of Chef Michael Scelfo has gained critical acclaim almost from the beginning by taking a modern approach to locally sourced ingredients while also featuring one of the most innovated Bar programs in the area by barrel aging several options while also offering a good mix of novelties as well as the classics.
Best described as shabby chic in design, several odd references to Drugs perhaps lost on those unfamiliar with the area or space, it was just after the 10:30am opening that seats were offered at a far back banquet, the music overhead taking the now-trendy route of channeling classics from the 50s and 60s while the menu presented was anything but expected, the five items ordered all delivered almost simultaneously in a matter of moments.
Locally sourcing as much as possible, Coffee from Gracenote refilled repeatedly by a server who was not particularly in-tune with the menu, though efficient and pleasant enough, dining at Alden & Harlow began with fluffy Cornmeal Pancakes lightly tinged in acid and Buttermilk atop a lightly sweetened Cream plus Strawberries, the follow-up Buckle taking a similar route in terms of flavor profile as bursting Berries densely pocketed piping-hot cast iron with a stiff dollop of Crème Fraiche slowly melting down into a buttery Streusel top.
Intentionally veering sweet, though savory selections also beckon, further tastes entailed a crisp yet flexible curl of Cinnamon Brioche sitting in a pool of caramelized Butter beneath a mountain of Maple Icing, the ‘Pain Perdu’ unfortunately falling short in the flavor department by eschewing any sort of sweetness in the custard while Hickory smoked Pigs’ Tails actually proved to be the highlight of the morning with the shredded meat fully imbuing the grits with smoke and sweetness and a stick-to-the-ribs richness fortified by the poached Egg.
Apricot Glazed Sugar Brioche with Chocolate Chips and Dried Cherries
Still something of a secret in Boston, the makers of Mike & Patty’s Sandwich Breads retail space located across from a gypsum reclaiming facility on Fawcett Street in Cambridge, Iggy’s Bread of The World features a wide variety of options sold at prices comparable to other local artisans with a whole lot of variety from which to choose.
Truly an artisan bakeshop, oldworld technique meeting all-natural ingredients in the skilled hands of a team led by Igor Ivanovic, Iggy’s originally opened in 1994 before moving to its current location in the old King Arthur Flour warehouse in 1999 and despite having now established a substantial wholesale business the storefront still maintains a mom n’ pop likeness thanks to a smiling staff that appears exceptionally well trained.
Now holding accounts with several hotels, stores and restaurants throughout Massachusetts, but still turning out fresh breads, bagels and pastries for fans willing to stop in, a brief look at the racks and cases provides an almost overwhelming amount of temptation and whether one selects a “mini” or full-sized version of viennoiserie the results are better than most produced at such volume, the Pain au Chocolate piped with a good core within rounds of lamination while the Almond version only fault is that the shell is too soft.
Doing an admirable job with the morning bun, though the larger one would have likely fared better in letting the curl become crisp without drying the center out, both the Bread Pudding and Apricot Brioche were delicious in part due to the fruit but also as a result of the eggy base from which they came from, the Pecan Crescent a “best of the best” bite that reminded me of the Hungarian Nut Horns made by my Grandmother at Christmas, but substituting in even more flavor by way of ground Pecan Flour instead of placing the filling inside of rolled dough.
Another heralded spot in the suburb of Somerville, Union Square Donuts has long been considered the Boston Metro’s preeminent distributor of artisan Donuts and although some may be put off by prices that range $3-4 the fact that the place continues to sell out each and every day should be enough to suggest that the hype is at least part-justifiable
Using buzzwords like “small batch” and recently expanding their reach to Brookline where Harvard students are sure to be a market force, Union Square Donuts on Bow Street is a friendly sort of place where reclaimed woods and light music overlook a thriving market of all ages and with servers far more helpful than most ‘hip’ spots elsewhere the line progresses as an endless trickle, a half-dozen fried treats ringing in at just over $20.
No doubt using good ingredients, the bases a crumbly buttercake or eggy sort of yeast-risen Brioche scratch-mixed and fried on-site with toppings also made in house, first tastes of Union Square’s goods came from a ‘Creamsicle’ that reminisced of Hostess Yellow Cupcake with more dignity and less sweetness while the Strawberry ring topped with reduced-fruit frosting was not quite on-par with Blackbird’s Honey-kissed version, but pretty excellent anyway.
Dressing up the next puffy circle in boozy Caramel that came across almost savory thanks to the Salt, another interesting bite was the Brown Butter Glazed “Premium” selection studded with Hazelnuts while the pocket of Custard beneath Chocolate Ganache and bursting Maine Blueberries inside a Cinnamon Sugar pocket were each well worthy of the four dollar investment.
Owned and operated by Barbara Lynch, the matriarch of Boston’s dining scene with restaurants including No. 9 Park and Sportello having impressed on a past trip to New England, it was to the Beard Award winning restaurateur’s Relais & Chateaux rated Menton that I turned for Friday evening, the “From Elements” tasting impressive at almost every turn with the addition of two supplements.
Opened in 2010 but falling by the wayside during a 2011 vacation compromised by tragedy, Menton has remained strongly supported despite early thoughts that fine dining would be a difficult sell in the modern dining economy, and although having changed its format in order to accommodate both tasting, bar and a la carte options there is little doubt that the restaurant remains the crown gem of an empire and one of the most respected restaurants in its price-range north of New York City.
Described as French-Italian hybrid cuisine, though certainly not like French Riviera cuisine popularized by Ducasse in various venues, Menton finds itself housed in an upstairs space on Congress Street where elegant decoration and slick surfaces welcome diners of all sorts beneath track-lighted ceilings.
Expectedly offering formal service, though the Captains all seem quite charming and never shy to offer their thoughts, patrons are invited to choose between individual plates or a tasting composed from the “From Elements” section, or to instead dive right into the chef’s nightly degustation entitled “Into Evolution.”
Eventually opting for the shorter tasting due to two a la carte items deemed too good to forgo, an alcohol-free Pineapple Ginger Cooler proved a pleasantly refreshing way to cleanse the palate between courses while amuses described as a “Summer Basket” and Orange-Olive Grissini provided a one-two punch of bitter and briny that quickly revved the anticipation.
Serving individual breads throughout the meal, a warm croissant the only item not offered in the basket far and away the best, Butter from a single cow in Vermont named Babette will undoubtedly find itself slathered on Baguettes, Pretzels or Rolls until every bite is eaten, Lynch’s famous “Butter Soup” absolutely worthy the praise heaped upon it as a honey-sweetened version of same ingredient is used to compliment Caviar and poached Shellfish.
Progressing gently from soup to “salad,” the tender Artichoke Hearts smartly paired to crispy Potato cubes, Sturgeon Cream and Cracklins’, Halibut was a bit too predictable save for the Crab stuffed Bok Choy, though the meaty texture of the fish showed a very skilled hand in both its sourcing and treatment.
Known for her hand with pasta, the gnocchi at No 9. Park one of the city’s most revered dishes, a plate of Bigoli showed tender noodles served as a sort of nest beneath fresh Cheese, Rosemary and Bottarga shavings, the addition of a Foie Gras Tart standing out as one of the most elegantly composed dishes of 2016 with the tender liver perched atop a pie shell filled with Lobster, Corn, Maple Syrup and Blueberries.
Taking an almost ‘rustic’ approach to Quail by lightly pan searing the split bird with Breadcrumbs and plating it with cracked Almonds, Nut Butter, and fried Cippolini Onions it was in declining Cheese that a duo of desserts was presented, the supplemented Cornmeal Cake falling a bit short in terms of taste or presentation while the cylindrical Peach Chiboust was not only more beautiful to look at but also a creamy, light and fragrant way to finish a very impressive meal.
Missed on a prior visit to Boston when the trip was cut short by the tragic Marathon bombing, a stop at The Gallows was requisite to the remaining days of a Northeast Summer vacation with the boisterous hipster space on Washington Street showing better than recent rumors have suggested, though perhaps not as interesting as it once was.
Located in the shadows of The Cathedral of the Holy Cross and humorously described on the website as “an extension of your own kitchen, only better,” The Gallows offers a well-culled menu fitting squarely into the “Gastropub” genre, and although Chefs have changed since a 2010 opening the South End favorite still continues to draw a crowd due to its famous flat-top Burgers, Poutine and Tots.
Decorated in a sort of odd fashion, the heavy woods and well-stocked bar expected while the peeled-up boards as light sources and Ouija Board wall are certainly unique, The Gallows continues to be popular amongst the 20-to-30-something crowd in part due to its fair prices and cocktails, the Happy Hour Crowd at the bar frequently several layers deep.
Requesting a table outside the hustle and bustle, a banquet near the pack both roomy and quiet enough to relax, it was with menus in hand that the extremely casual servers discussed the “shared plates” concept for appetizers while other items were better selected as entrees, the eventual order entailing a half-dozen savories plus The Gallows lone dessert.
Waiting almost no-time for food, the $16 Valet charge regretted as a garage would have been cheaper for a sub-60 minute stay, opening bites featured the restaurant’s Biscuit Basket that eats more like Buttermilk Poundcake than the traditional layered option while the Scotch Egg may seem pricy at first for $8, though the gooey Yolk’s combination with Crispy Sausage and almost no filler inevitably proves to be worth it.
Not as *wowed* by the Tots as some may have suggested, the Turnips and Cheese overwhelmed by Aioli, better bites were found in a hemisected Corn Muffin flanking smoked Pork, Red Onion and robustly spiced Guacamole.
Falling short on Poutine, a large portion of good Fries unfortunately flawed by thin Gravy and ‘curds’ that were more like cottage cheese than the squeaky fresh morsels in Wisconsin, a Burger “Our Way” was offered at perfect medium with fresh condiments and no mustard, the “Stoner’s Delight” perhaps the most decadent dessert in all of New England as the ramekin of Bruleed Fluff yielded layer upon layer of stewed Bananas, creamy Peanut Butter and Chunks of Dark Chocolate.
A longstanding community staple in Brookline, the robust Breads and rustic Pastries each widely cited as some of Beantown’s best, Clear Flour Bread had long been omitted from tourism plans largely due to its location, a Friday midday snack showing that I’d been missing out.
In reality not nearly as remote as it may seem on a map, the upscale surrounding neighborhood nice for a stroll or drive, Clear Flour Bread features a tiny storefront without any seating and although the retail space itself may seem tiny at first, the bakery behind it is still apt to turn out a selection that is quite daunting.
A touch pricy compared to local competition, the use of high end ingredients including many organics respectable and put to good use, choices for indulgence at Clear Flour Bread encompass several bakers racks covering the better part of two walls, the eventual selection of five showing everything to fare quite well.
Taking the taped box elsewhere, coffee or a tall glass of milk requisite for such a tasting, opening bites were invested in the “shortcake biscuit” that tasted something like a Scone mixed with a Liege Waffle due to sugar pockets juxtaposing buttery notes, the fruit Financier fashioned from Almond Flour a smooth yet toothsome nugget with the fresh Raspberries bursting with flavor.
Making people smile with nostalgic cookies like Chocolate Chip being easy, this bakery not seeming too keen on taking shortcuts, Clear Flour Bread instead features flavors including Soft Molasses Spice and Trail mix amidst their baked rounds, the former particularly memorable in part due to its hefty use of Ginger and Cloves in addition to its texture, the Clafoutis an even more memorable option as the rich custard gently cradled Cherries atop an all-butter crust.
Prime Beef Brisket on a Bulkie Roll with Potato Salad
Lunch Cheeks Tray – Pulled Pork, One Rib, Pulled Chicken, Mac n’ Cheese
Banana Pudding
Giant Nutter Butter
Citing “Real Texas Barbeque” in its concept, a phrase turned more and more these days by places nowhere near the level of most in the Lone Star State, Sweet Cheeks Q presents a lot like a restaurateur’s idea of what Barbeque ‘should’ look like, though fact that the restaurant was playing Top40 while showing Wimbledon made the space packed with T-shirted tourists alongside businessmen in suits even more bizarre.
Considered by some to be the city’s best, a large room on Boylston not far from Fenway undoubtedly filling the restaurant to capacity at least 80 days a year, it was just after opening that seats were found along the restaurant’s left half nearest the kitchen and bathrooms, a young server certainly not Texan based on her accent providing excellent service just as well.
More progressive than many modern ‘Cue joints, the menu offering items like housemade Pimento Cheese and Pork Belly along with the standards, a wise way to sample a wide swath of options is by way of one of the “trays” or “combos,” though Sandwiches come heavily loaded at a good price, too.
Starting off with the aforementioned Cheese spread, not as spicy as some but better than average, the Crackers really are presented as a buttery sleeve of Ritz, the biscuits ooversized, soft and rich with buttermilk available at $3/each or at a discount for the basket.
Offering hot or cold scoops with entrees, the Potato Salad pretty much par for the course while Mac n’ Cheese is a rich blend with breadcrumbs baked to create a crunchy top, meats at Sweet Cheeks are a mixed bag with the fatty rich but not particularly smoky while the Pulled Pork is also not particularly flavorful without the addition of some lightly sweetened BBQ or tangy Carolina-style Vinegar Sauce.
Impressed by the smoke ring on the rib, full flavors slipping effortlessly from the bone, chicken too is a good choice as the bird comes across juicy as thought pre-brined before smoking, desserts the menu’s other high-point as the Banana Pudding is upgraded by caramelizing the fruit while the dinner-plate size Nutter Butter is almost cakelike in size as well as texture with a richness that puts not only the original but Thomas Keller’s “Better Butter” to shame.
Located just down the block from Ball Square Café and family owned and operated since 1887, Lyndell’s Bakery in Somerville was one of those rare places that beckoned a visit despite no prior knowledge of its existence, the service and products both oldschool and pretty great.
Not really identifying with a specific ‘style’ or nationality, and thus quite the opposite of newer Artisan spots focusing on French Pastries or the great Italian spots in Old North End, entry to Lyndell’s immediately sparks nostalgia of a small town upbringing, the modestly dressed middle-aged women with distinctive Boston accents standing back and going about their duties until approached, but then happy to inform or recommend what is best.
Not tossing about words like ‘organic’ or ‘artisan,’ and certainly not trying to reinvent the wheel, Lyndell’s instead focuses on classic bakes, doughnuts and wedding cakes rich with thick buttercream or boiled frostings, first tastes of the Chocolate Whoopie Pie and dipped Buttercream Cookie not subtle in the slightest as sugar, flour and oil all coated the palate.
Offering no lack of variety spread across a large floorplan with the bakery itself visible through windows behind the racks, Almond Cannolis had ‘just been filled’ according to the older of two bakers and true-to-words the mascarpone was nicely cradled in a robustly crunchy shell.
Not particularly impressed by the Jelly Donut, granulated sugar clinging on tightly to a surface glistening with oil, better bites were found in a traditional Boston Cream Pie as well as the Vanilla Éclair with similar custard filling, the Black & White “Halfmoon” eating much like its Deli cousin, but with a fluffy base that was more cake-like and fluffy.
Located along the main drag in Somerville, as ‘locals only’ a spot as one is likely to find in a metropolitan area the size of Boston, Ball Square Café was *the* surprise of a trip that saw forty-four stops throughout New England over the course of eight days, both as a result of the food and the service.
Quite literally a place where “everybody knows your name,” a Friday at 8:15 finding the spot slammed with locals and soon to generate a short queue, Ball Square Café has gained acclaim over recent years for offering a menu of signatures as well as specials that far outperform the typical café or diner while the serve yourself Coffee features no less than five flavors to go along with at least twice as many types of tea.
Easily spotted as out of towners, the lack of a New England accent probably enough in this sort of place, it was with the assistance of a young man who grew up locally that decisions were made from a menu that offers no lack of variety, cooks in the semi-open kitchen no doubt underpaid given the tight quarters in which they operate with both skill and speed.
Told that housemade Scones are “the best” by an elderly man near the door, a Blueberry version joined by a griddled Corn Muffin showing no sign that the fellow was false as both outperformed anything similar tasted in downtown Boston or Cambridge, those fancying flavored coffee are encouraged to explore French Vanilla or Hazelnut that are each well flavored without being overwhelming, the standard brew a good medium roast of which free refills are sure to leave patrons buzzing.
Going all sweet on the menu, a small plate of late arriving bacon requested almost as a necessity to clear the palate, those interested in a true “signature” are encouraged to enjoy the Coconut Macaroon French Toast that bears an uncanny resemblance to the Italian Meringue Cookie, the Sugar Tossed Brioche lightly fried with Raspberry filling and Whipped Cream an equally diligent reminder of a classic Jelly Donut while the Dark Chocolate Pancakes are a truly over-the-top indulgence.
Best described as a Turkish cousin to Oleana, the collaborative effort from Chef Ana Sortun and Cassie Piuma essentially reinventing Somerville dining overnight when it opened its doors in late 2013, it was as a 9:15pm walk-in that seats were found at a communal high-top overlooking the exhibition style kitchen where a team of Chefs work to fashion some truly inventive small-plates.
Apparently slammed on almost every night of the week, later hours than most combined with a unique menu that is mostly wallet friendly when eating as a group likely part of the draw, dining at Sarma is largely presented as a “choose-your-own-adventure” sort of experience and with the menu divided into several sections that are at once clever yet familiar the recommendation is made for “two-or-three” plates per person, though it is likely most will want to try more.
Made to order, seasonal and frequently local sourced, the plates rolling out from the kitchen as readied while Chefs occasionally stop by with trays of ‘nightly specials’ not found on the menu at varying cost, it was with the first of two seeded Pitas that the dining night got rolling and trying hard to not fill up and thus resisting further temptation the decision proved fortuitous, opening plates of tender Dumplings made of Beets brilliant in tangy Yogurt with hints of Mint while the Falafel of Bluefish tasted much like Brandade Croqettes with a smooth, herbal finish.
Having already enjoyed a memorable dinner at Birch in Providence, thus limiting the order more than it should have been, a trio of biscuits with smoked Ham were perhaps not as appropriate to the venue as they were delicious, the Harissa Duck a bit overpriced considering the portion while Borek took a unique approach in soaking the pastry with sundried tomatoes before topping it with tapenade, Mozzarella and Basil in a makeshift Caprese move.
Full, but never foolish enough to forgo dessert, Sarma takes a unique approach to softserve by offering just one style with a bevy of mix-ins, the Meringue topped Pavlova both textural and refreshing while the sticky Pudding of Figs, Saffron and Honey went well with both the Frozen Yogurt and tender Ricotta Donuts.
Arriving in Providence to find much of the city, including two of its most famous eateries closed throughout Independence Day week, it was after a rather dull day highlighted by RISD Museum that dinner was presented at Birch, the intimate stripe of real estate at 200 Washington Street featuring the talents of Chef Benjamin Sukle thankfully making the drive worth it.
Described as “Intimate, New American,” but perhaps better described as a shoebox featuring locally sourced and foraged flavors that outperform anything one might expect from the outside, Birch was opened in 2013 by Sukle and his wife Heidi, the kitchen hidden behind hazy glass while two servers/bartenders work tirelessly to fill any number of roles.
Seating just 16, the reservations carefully offset to allow each diner’s four-course meal to progress at a comfortable pace, Birch presents three different prix-fixe options at the bargain price of just $49,a supplemental bread service adding $3 while wine pairings and cocktails are also offered at an equally wallet-friendly price.
Championing seasonality by way of a heavily produce-driven menu, the proteins frequently used to accent the vegetables rather than the other way around, dinner at Birch began with a crispy “snack” of Tempura Asparagus with Black Garlic before launching into a first course of raw Scallops in a broth of Cherry Blossoms and Turnips, these bittersweet concepts found once more in a salad of Celtuce with Nuts, Sea Beans and Seeds, while thinly sliced Kohlrabi delivered one of the best bites in all of New England as the soft Cabbage-like flavors found unexpected levels of sweetness when layered with Apples and Crème Fraiche.
Uncertain as to why the restaurant opts to present bread as a bonus, a few more dollars added to the base unlikely a deal-breaker for most, suffice it to say the Cultured Butter alone more than justifies the cost and calories while the decision between plates for round two was a far more difficult decision, the Asparagus with Barbeque offal perhaps a touch funky for sensitive diners as Sweet Peas and local Corn each turned up tastes and textures by way of the accoutrements, the later a sort of pudding with tender Root Vegetables cooked to concentrate their sugars playing a deft foil to Mustard Greens.
At this point almost ‘expecting’ Birch to be the rare restaurant where an entrée of Cabbage could stand toe-to-toe with Lamb or fresh Fish, Chef Sukle did not disappoint in presenting the grilled section in a manner similar to that of the Kohlrabi before it, each layer presenting a distinct layer of flavor with alternating sweet, sour and salty all traversing the palate – the two meat based options equally delicious in their own right, but at the same time for more typical in their presentation.
Taking the route of one cheese and two sweets for dessert, the unnamed aged Cow’s Milk eating almost like a French Onion Queso Fundido, summer Berries were seen in all their glory for each of the alternative selections, the Strawberry with ‘Crispy Milk’ and Brown Butter exceedingly mellow with a flavor not unlike White Chocolate while the Candied Berries ate almost like a children’s breakfast Cereal with the sour notes of Rhubarb and Goat’s Milk imparting a decidedly grown-up flavor.
Hailing from a city where traditional Italian bakeries are inexplicably absent, save for the heinously overpriced Carlo’s Bakery outpost from Celebrity Chef “Buddy V,” Boston’s Historic North End has long been a subject of intrigue, and having previous paid visits to Mike’s as well as Modern Pastry it was 24/7 Bova’s Bakery that captured attention on Thursday.
Family owned and operated, a corner location just off the typical tourist path making it a local’s sort of place for pastry, breakfast or daily bread, Bova’s has been serving Boston since 1932 and with a wide selection of both sweets and savories baked as supplies are diminished the odds-on for freshness appear to be during the morning and lunch rushes, as well as occasionally late night.
Cheerful in service at 9:30am, a few locals coming and going as goods were perused, the sheer number of items available at Bova’s Bakery are enough to justify a rather lengthy decisions process, a total of eight items plus several duplicates ringing in at just under $15 cash or credit.
Being somewhat specific in requesting the freshest items possible, some stored in a refrigerator case while others rest room-temperature behind glass, first bites of Bova’s goods entailed four styles of cookie from which the Rugelach was quite memorable, as too was a cake-like Rainbow that beautifully composed with dark chocolate and a great complexity in the mouth.
A touch underwhelmed by the Lobster Tail, cream dense and the pastry itself a bit damp from sitting, the Chocolate Chip Cannoli was equally compromised by sog, the novel Mascarpone-filled Florentine a far more interesting presentation with an expected degree of sweetness while the Sfogliatelle was far more mild as soft citrus was liberated from a shattering pastry cage sure to make a mess.
A second location of the famous donut shop from nearby Saugus, Kane’s Donuts opened in Boston’s Financial District sometime in late Winter 2015, and although urban-dwellers as well as fans of the original seem to have taken issue with the fact that both the Real Estate and top-quality ingredients cost more money than the average Krispy Kreme or Dunkin’ those in the know will quickly realize that these are not just simple fried bits of eggs, milk, sugar and flour.
Founded in 1955 and claiming to have been “Making the World’s Best Donuts” ever since, Kane’s story is like many locals-done-well tales of passion leading to national attention, the shop and it’s recipes still owned by the same family throughout intervening decades though modern techniques and tastes have undoubtedly led to innovation as well as flair.
No doubt more swank and ‘city’ than the original as signage, glass and countertops all look slick and neat, entry to Kane’s Donuts will likely see patrons pass by several men in suits and ties alongside women in black dresses with briefcases, the oversized $3.25 treats joined by Muffins, Cupcakes and Cinnamon Rolls plus coffee roasted by Peet’s.
Friendly in customer service, a constant trickle of traffic always greeted with smiles, Kane’s runs the gamut from traditional Honey Dips to more decadent cake flavors, the Fritter a bit of an anomaly in that it ate more like a glazed roll than something crispy and apple studded while the Cruller is perhaps archetype for the genre with a golden exterior shell overlying open pockets of custard as light as air.
Highly praised for the longstanding classics, an aged starter and significant leavening making the Honey Dip another ‘must order’ taste, Snickers simply built on the same formula with flavors cribbed from America’s favorite Candy Bar, the Oreo a rich chocolate ring beneath white icing while the daily specials of Boston Cream Pie and Ipswich Ale Blueberry Shandy brought the traditional Custard pocket and Blueberry Cake Donut to an unprecedented level.
