A rather traditional Japanese-French style bakery located somewhat off the beaten path in a Tustin strip mall a number of locals had strongly encouraged me to stop by Cream Pan during my trip to Orange County specifically to try their storied strawberry croissant. A rather large space predominated by Asian Americans with only a few other native English speakers in the room I arrived at the bakery to find a short queue yet moving quite efficiently it would not be long before I found myself at the front of the line, four items picked out along the way at a total of only $6 cash. Moving from indoors to out, a small patio behind the bakery to be precise, I started my tasting of Cream Pan’s wares with the signature ‘cream pan’ and not entirely sure what to expect was greeted by a soft, yeasty roll dense with custard and light egginess that proved to be quite pleasant, though quite heavy which led to me saving half for later – the bread keeping quite nicely in its bag. Moving next to the croissants, first almond and then strawberry, I was personally underwhelmed by each because although pleasantly crunchy on the exterior both proved rather dense on the inside, the layers not entirely separated and thus more ‘bread’ than croissant though the flavors were admittedly quite well done. Saving the item I assumed would be best for last my final taste of Cream Pan was the traditional Azuki cream and much as I guessed it was indeed the star of the show, a light choux pastry surrounding light whipped cream and dense, sticky red bean paste at the base – an absolute must for anyone opting to make their way out to Tustin.
Open daily at 6:30am but baking at the wee hours with one of the owners almost always on site Sidecar Doughnuts caught my attention long before I’d even planned to visit Orange County; an ethos of all natural ingredients without artificial flavors, colors, or preservatives plus house made jams and creams plus a rotating board of specials both sweet and savory had me convinced the place would be worth the drive…and on back to back mornings it proved exactly that. Featuring a friendly staff consisting largely of young SoCal ladies with bright smiles and samples of daily specials on both days my first morning’s visit was with a friend and selecting a half dozen my second stop at Sidecar collected three more that hadn’t been available the prior morning, most selections a cake doughnut aside from the Maple Bacon, Apricot Vanilla Bean, and Monte Cristo which was yeasted, raised, and stuffed with ham and jam. Generally preferring cake doughnuts and particularly impressed by the light nutty tones and touch of buttermilk in Sidecar’s options the most memorable choices of the nine items chosen were without a doubt the ones featuring fresh berries, particularly the peaches and cream and the signature huckleberry yet not to be outdone I also really enjoyed the cornbread choices, the sorghum version harkening the skillet cornbread throughout Low Country and the Cowgirl Creamery studded version nicely balancing the inherent funk of the aged triple cream with chive and only a touch of glaze; the whole collection the best cake doughnuts I’ve found to date.
When Asked about Summer Food – Everyone says Watermelon
Morning, Noon, Night – Avema, Coffee Simple, Pathos Chocolate Porter
Buy Me Some Peanuts and Crackerjacks – Peanut Brittle, Popcorn Ice Cream, Warm Caramel Sauce
Funnel Cake, Bitch – Warm Season Berry Compote, Paco Vanilla
Barrel Aged Fernet – Four Week Once Used American Oak
Told by more than one trustworthy source that Jason Quinn’s playground was putting out some of the finest food in Orange County and hearing rumor of a special invitation only space next door I quickly e-mailed the restaurant to inquire; my efforts landing myself and a friend two seats at the bar where Chef Quinn and his team produced one of the most memorable meals of my life – a picnic style feast set to the theme of Summer and Bryan Adam’s iconic Summer of 69. Admittedly not the sort of space for a timid person or diner, Playground 2.0 emphasizes placing your faith in the chefs and having a great time and with plenty of strangers, a soundtrack plus occasional slide show, and more food and drink than anyone will need one should generally rest assured that their faith is well placed because not a single one of the twenty five plates that circulated the room that night was less than good and some were quite frankly the sort of dish I’d have paid the price of admission for by themselves. From salads and soups with A5 Wagyu to a ‘hot dog’ made entirely of fresh picked king crab and onward to a whole tray of smoked line caught salmon, lamb shoulder, baby back ribs, and enough dry aged squab that I literally ate three birds on my own the ingredient quality of every dish wowed while the pairings were more than enough that if I’d finished them all I’d have needed a taxi to return to my hotel and moving on to desserts, all prepared by a young woman named Ashley, it would be hard to name one that stood out as ‘best’ because all were ample and delicious – most diners leaving plenty on the table as they were simply too full to finish. A truly remarkable meal and a veritable steal at less than $200 all inclusive it was a meal so good that I returned to Playground for brunch the next day and can say without a doubt that I cannot wait for my next 2.0 experience, both my patronage and trust well earned.
Blackstrap Betty – Chewy Molasses Drop Cookie with Chunks of Dried Apricots
Black Widow – Dark Chocolate Ganache over our Caramel in a Chocolate Tart Shell
Coffee Pecan – Classic Pecan Filling, spiked with Coffee, topped with a Torched Marshmallow
Also located at The Camp I’ll admit up front that my primary reason for ending up at Old Vine Café was because I’d scoped out Blackmarket Bakery, the recently relocated version of pastry chef Rachel Klemek’s celebrated Orange County icon. A large space with bright light pouring in from the typically amazing SoCal sun my original plan was to simply grab a few items to go but generally prone to temptation when it comes to pastry it did not take more than a few seconds before I realized the odds were stacked against me, my eventual order taking two tarts, two cookies, and a disappointingly soft and seemingly stale croissant to go while indulging in a sandwich and bread pudding in store. Without a doubt an innovative chef with playful creations imbued with classical training it was really no surprise that the brioche sandwich with house made marshmallows, ganache, plus freshly ground peanuts and the bread pudding (which was heated in the oven at my request) wowed; both items gooey and sweet yet not overly so as a result of copious butter and fresh fruit but what was truly impressive was just how good both the cookies would turn out to be, the snickerdoodle amongst the best I’ve ever had while the betty harkened trail mix in a cookie form. Finally, and definitely a case of ‘last but not least,’ a tasting of two tarts would prove the espresso tinged pecan pie with a smoky marshmallow to be truly unique, a flavor harkening hazelnut coffee, while the signature black widow was one of those rare situations where something done again and again was completely reinvented as the concept of ‘salty caramel’ found new light with intensely dark chocolate ganache so bitter on its own that it practically begged for the caramel, the whole far greater than the sum of its parts.
Located in The Camp, though tucked away in back, Old Vine Café was my first stop on a brief trip to Orange County and with a unique menu covering items both savory and sweet plus excellent service, recurrently refilled cold brew coffee, and seating both al fresco and indoors I couldn’t really have asked for a better start to a day in sunny Southern California. A rather small place with a casual vibe and a short waitlist with time easily passed in the nearby stores it was not long after seating that my waiter stopped by to describe a few daily specials and with orders placed the food started arriving only a few minutes later with a decadent, buttery cinnamon roll copiously topped with rich cream cheese frosting. Happy to oblige course-by-course service even with a crowd outside I next transitioned to savory with tender and smoky lamb meatloaf atop thick cheddar grits and a sidecar of mild barbeque sauce plus a pair of poached eggs that were unfortunately a bit wet in the sidecar but excellent when drained and mixed with the grits and the sauce. Finishing up, and without a doubt the ‘must order’ of the menu, my last course was a casserole style bread pudding with caramelized apples between layers of dense bread topped with more caramel and hefty with vanilla and cinnamon notes; a veritable breakfast bread pudding that was also available in blueberry – something I’d have returned for the following day if my schedule hadn’t taken me elsewhere and something I will return for the next time I find myself in OC.
Beginning as a food truck called ‘Great Bao’ before migrating to the unexpected environs of the Eureka Hotel Fat Choy had been getting a lot of press preceding my trip to Las Vegas and with an all day Sunday brunch menu I decided to pay Sheridan Su’s Asian Fusion spot a visit for some early evening dining; second hand smoke be damned, anyplace serving bao, roti, and waffles on the same menu warranted my attention. Located in the corner of a space best defined as ‘questionable’ and more appropriately ‘seedy’ I was admittedly impressed at how separated Fat Choy seemed from the casino and how well the smoke from the slots was excluded from the dining experience and after getting past these issues I was even happier to find the service aspects of the restaurant far better than the typical “Chinese restaurant” and actually on par with many high end places on the strip. With a small crowd of varying ages and ethnicities I made a simple inquiry about the shrimp toast (not typically on the brunch menu) and was assured the chef would be happy to prepare it and although each dish I ordered was good the funky sausage juxtaposing shrimp and tinged with spicy mayo all melded together with a fried egg was undoubtedly the ‘must try’ dish of the meal. Opting next for a crunchy waffle topped with somewhat mundane chicken and a bit of Sriracha spiked syrup alongside the signature Duck Bao – a great rendition with pillowy bread, crisp skin, and snappy pickles all playing for center stage – I think it is safe to say that sticking with less “American” food is in one’s best interest, though the fusion focused crisp roti topped nutella, rich mascarpone, smoky walnuts, and ample honey makes me think that perhaps something like a Korean style chicken and waffles could be just the right thing to add to the menu.
Soft Scramble Romano & Black Pepper – Scrambled eggs seasoned with romano cheese & light black pepper with side of rustic potatoes
Prosciutto Asparagus & Poached Eggs – Thin sliced Italian cured pork & asparagus, lightly dusted with truffle oil and shaved grana padano cheese atop poached eggs
Deep Dish Apple Pancake – Upside down pancake with caramelized apples topped with 100% pure maple syrup
Stuffed French Toast – Brioche toast stuffed with sweet mascarpone & ricotta cheese topped with 100% pure maple syrup and sautéed seasonal berries
Small New York Round Thin Crust Margherita – Fior di latte, mozzarella, San Marzano tomatoes, fresh basil & extra virgin olive oil
Having experienced the magic of DiFara’s in Brooklyn and watching Dom DeMarco at work in his tiny pizzeria I was admittedly a bit skeptical walking into the Vegas interpretation of the great Pizzaiolo’s vision – not only would the master not be there watching over each and every pie, but I worried that the larger restaurant and expanded menu would compromise the quality of the meal; all of these concerns proving unfounded when I met a group of three Vegas diners to explore a varied swath of the relatively new brunch menu. Treated first with a bag of zeppoles served with raspberry sauce and progressing through two savories and two sweets before moving onto one of the iconic pies the first thing to strike me was how well everything was prepared – the scrambled eggs springy and the poached eggs runny with vegetables nicely prepared and plenty of cheese while both the baked pancake and French Toast were fluffy and sweet with top quality fruit and ample, but not overwhelming amounts of pure maple syrup. Impossible to decide between the square or the round crust based on quality as both were excellent in Brooklyn our eventual decision was based entirely on the fact that the square pie is only available in a large size and although perhaps not as well seasoned in terms of the bright acidity of the tomatoes or robust herbal notes of the basil the crust at DeMarco’s was every bit that of the version at DiFara’s, lightly raised and golden with a light crumb and pleasant yeasty notes serving as a backdrop to ample cheese – undoubtedly a contender for the best pizza I’ve found in Las Vegas.
Attached to Metro Pizza far up in Northwest Vegas near Skypointe I stopped by Lulu’s for provisions before heading out with my real estate agent for a long day of house hunting and greeted by a long line snaking from counter to door I was quickly handed a paper menu by a fellow patron and left to study a list of dine in and take away items, all made in house and based on old family recipes, as I approached the counter. A large space with brick walls, wooden floors, and unfinished ceilings plus plenty of space to spread out and enjoy a pastry and coffee or a full breakfast it would not be long before I arrived at the pastry case and after sampling pieces of both the White Chocolate Pistachio cookie and “Lulu’s Signature” cookie I placed my order for five items, each boxed or bagged individually, and made my way to the car. Saving much of the sampling until later in the day but beginning with the Nutella Croissant as it was the only item still warm from the oven I was quite impressed by the quality of the laminated pastry as a shattering exterior gave way to a wispy open crumb that held up to being split and lacquered with a layer of hazelnut-chocolate cream admirably though an almond croissant sampled later on was less impressive, the exterior still crisp but the interior slightly ‘bready, though thankfully not overdone with frangipane and actually quite subtle, which I enjoyed. Moving on to the sweeter selections, the oatmeal cookie proved competent though nothing to write home about while the cupcakes each featured a nearly angel-food texture, the cannoli version not terribly interesting once past the interesting frosting and embedded cookie but the peanut butter and jelly quite excellent with fresh preserves and chunky nut butter piped deep into the cake’s core.
Frozen Hot Chocolate French Toast – Chocolate French Toast, Triple Stacked with Strawberries, Topped with Pistachio Nuts, Chocolate Sauce & Whipped Cream
Balsamic Strawberry Cream Waffles – Freshly Sliced Strawberries, Macerated in Balsamic Glaze & Cream, Sandwiched between 2 Jumbo Waffles, topped with Fresh Strawberries & Drizzled in Chocolate
Carrot Cake Sundae – “I Thought I Saw a Wabbit” Vanilla & Butter Pecan Ice Cream, Heavenly Carrot Cake, Maple Walnut & White Chocolate Fudge,Topped with Whipped Cream
Never particularly interested in spending a New York meal on Serendipity 3 and always assuming the restaurant would function better with a group given the size of the portions I found myself awaiting a friend from Columbus at the Caesar’s Palace hot spot during my favorite Vegas time – early Sunday morning when the only people on the strip are those just wandering home from Saturday night or those cleaning up after them. Quiet in a good way with cheesy 80’s music playing overhead and as much kitsch and scripted-happy service as I’d expected it would be mere seconds after I was seated that coffee was filled and with both my friend and I favorite sweets to savories our decision was simple – both items arriving after numerous coffee refills in all their gluttonous glory. Understanding that Serendipity is more about fun than fine dining it was really no surprise that the bottom slice of French Toast was somewhat dry due to a lack of whipped cream saturation and although decent certainly nothing I’d order again and yet what was surprising was the high quality of the Waffles – both golden and crunchy on the exterior with a soft, pliable inside and nicely balanced between sweet and savory by the balsamic strawberries and chocolate. Satisfied but unwilling to leave Serendipity without sampling one of their signature sundaes the meal was capped with the carrot cake version, a substantial chunk of dense cake complete with cream cheese icing buried in ice cream, walnuts, fudge, and whipped cream that really had no chance of failing in the flavor department if you enjoy sweets, though perhaps a touch less ‘subtle’ than some like their breakfasts…or lunches…or dinners.
Not really sure what to make of the celebrity chef ‘gastropub’ boom in Las Vegas a late night visit to Michael Mina’s Pub 1842 was scheduled for a few reasons, the primary ones being excellent prior experiences at other Mina spots in various cities and the second a friendship with one of the staff members that dates back to a meal years ago in Detroit. Featuring a menu heavy in reinterpreted bar foods, enough televisions to watch every game on NFL Sunday Ticket simultaneously (apparently part of the future plan,) and a soundtrack with a little too much Journey and KISS for my tastes the decision was made largely to stick with items recommended by the staff and not particularly a beer aficionado I opted for one of their ‘limited edition’ Aviation’s as well – a truly excellent cocktail liberally spruced up with crème de violette. Speaking to the quality of the food I found much of what I ate at Pub 1842 to be quite good – the pretzels soft and salty with a poached egg gilding the proverbial lilly along with the beer cheese while the reinterpreted deviled eggs were also excellent. Less impressive, both the spring rolls and the mushrooms came off far too oily and while the duck paire with mint and cilantro was at the very least tasty the mushrooms were actually rather terrible and flavorless, a fact I mentioned to my server with the item subsequently stricken from the bill. In traditional Mina fashion dessert proved a strong finale to the meal, in this case featuring a “buckle” that ate more like a soufflé pairing sweet peaches and a caramel shake with boozy toffee sauce, a great variance of texture, temperature, and flavor that I’d gladly return for along with a cocktail and a few non-fried snacks during Saturday or Sunday football.
Portobello Mushroom baked in cheese sauce over spinach
Baba Au Rhum and Cannoli
Described as a traditional Italian Trattoria reflecting the culinary vision of New York born Chef Marc, Parma is one of those places that nearly every Las Vegas local sites as a reason for tourists to venture off strip – a simple, fun, relaxed place with remarkable food and equally impressive service but without the high prices intrinsic to the celebrity chefs on Las Vegas Blvd; it was a place I’d always wanted to visit but one not exactly easy to get to until this visit when I possessed a car and ample time to explore. Large in size primarily due to the presence of the retail store and deli but with ample seating for guests in both the dining room and small lounge I was greeted first by the man who would serve as my waiter and then by a manager who seemed to know every other patron in the restaurant, both inquiring as to whether it was my first visit and offering suggestions regarding the menu – some accepted and some discarded in order to focus on items I knew to suit my fancy, each and every one a lesson in rustic Italian cooking with top quality ingredients, great depth of flavor, and ample portion. Beginning first with hot garlic bread paired with olive oil and balsamic before progressing to an even more garlicky plate featuring eight tender snails on crusty bread with rich sauce I was shocked when the next two plates proved to be even better, one a ‘salad’ of crisp spinach topped with tender portabellas baked in parmesan cheese sauce and the other a pile of dainty potato gnocchi resting in smoky pork cream brightened up by fresh double shucked peas. With each plate undoubtedly heavy yet finely balanced with no ingredient unnecessary or overwhelming the others it was with a touch of sadness that I realized I only had room for one dessert but deferring the tiramisu and strawberry cake for a later date I do not regret my decision to order the baba one bit, two slices of boozy rum cake lightly sweetened with confectioners’ sugar and a ripe strawberry the only garnish necessary…plus a cannoli filled a la minute on the house, as though I needed further food or reason to return in the near future.
Torchon of Foie Gras – Strawberry-Jalapeno Gelée, Country Toast, Pistachio
Bread Pudding with Cinnamon Rum Sauce
Ostensibly a wine store that bloomed a French Bistro (or vice versa) on the shores of Lake Jacqueline with the consultative work of Alex Stratta a late al fresco lunch at Marche Bacchus seemed the perfect way to spend an afternoon in Las Vegas, the misting fans overhead doing an admirable job of keeping the patio cool despite the nearly triple digit temperature. Clearly a menu designed with wine in mind but not particularly wanting to imbibe so early in the day it was instead the food that brought me to Bacchus, specifically the house charcuterie program and as such selecting the Bacchus platter along with an order of the house foie gras would be the order of the day, a lovely arrangement that paired beautifully with not only the warm house bread but also the weather, sun, water, ducks and turtles passing by. From appropriately funky rillettes to spicy chorizo and a hearty pork pate each item on the charcuterie platter was excellent while the foie gras itself was delicate and creamy with all its characteristic sapor despite the surprisingly flavorless and liquidy gelee – a situation remedied quickly with a request for more quince. Moving on to dessert, and actually a difficult choice amongst a pair of my favorites I eventually went with my instincts and selected the bread pudding, a delicate cloud that seemed to be made of angel food cake with ample house whipped cream and a sidecar of intense rum sauce spiked with cinnamon. A lovely space that feels a million miles from the Strip I have no doubt I’ll be seeing more of Marche Bacchus in my future, particularly given their frequent special events.
Blueberry Cake, Cherry Cake, Sweet Potato Cake, Maple Bacon, Cookies n’ Cream, Campfire Smores, Apple Fritter, Fat Elvis, Strawberry Shortcake, Salted Caramel Twist, Peanut Butter and Jelly, Date with a Nutty Pig
Happy to see the cupcake fad come and go yet still sustain with some of the better places I have to admit that even as a child I’d always take a doughnut over a cupcake, pie, or cookie…I mean honestly, is there anything more American than deep fried dough? Taking this fact into account and having been to many of the nation’s best doughnutteries I was surprised when I heard about an artisan doughnut shop in Las Vegas called Pink Box, quickly doing my research and sending an e-mail to the shop in order to reserve a dozen for a meeting with some friends. Answered promptly by a man named Rodney who I would also meet me at the store after an elderly greeter said hello and opened the door for my entry I was happy to find my order all boxed up and ready to go, particularly with a price tag less than 1/2 of what one would spend at Doughnut Plant, Dynamo, Voodoo, or Top Pot. Chatting with the staff for a bit before making my way to the car and to my awaiting friends it was our mutual agreement that not only did the doughnuts benefit from being very fresh but also that while some places do one ‘style’ better than the others Pink Box actually does a very admirable job with cake and raised, filled and fritter alike. With classics like the blueberry cake crisp and minimally oily juxtaposing a truly inspired sweet potato cake doughnut that resembled the namesake pie in flavor my friends were most taken by the Peanut Butter/Banana Fat Elvis and the Campfire S’mores while I was personally wowed by the Nutty Pig – a yeasty bavarian with maple icing, dates, bacon, almond, and blue cheese – as well as the crispy salted caramel twist, the texture somewhat akin to a cruller meets a buttery pretzel thick with sticky caramel visibly flecked with coarse sea salt.
Sticky Bun and White Chocolate Blueberry Scone with House Jam and Butter
Challah French toast with fresh strawberries
Jerk fried chicken & waffles served with DW signature maple syrup; breast of chicken atop light and crispy waffles sprinkled with orange zest
Carrot Cake
Coffee
Owned and operated by Bryce Krausman and Dalton Wilson, DW Bistro had been on my list of places to dine in Las Vegas for two years but with my visits largely limited to the strip or around Christmas when they graciously give their employees much needed time off it was not until my fateful interview trip that I finally made it to the Spring Valley restaurant, arriving just after the restaurant opened after an early morning flight from Phoenix. Large and airy with light spilling into the room to match the bright attitudes of the service team I was seated almost immediately on arriving at a table in back per my request and after perusing the menu decided to do what I often do with a menu so tempting; over order. Coffee in hand and copious refills to follow my meal started off with a pair of pastries including a tender sticky bun and an unfortunately slightly dry scone that livened up slightly with a touch of butter and jam and moving right along my main plates would arrive shortly thereafter, each proving larger than anticipated. From the smoky chicken atop a crisp yet pliable waffle and onward to the dense egg-bread topped with fresh berries and bathed in fruit-tinged syrup it would be hard to decide which dish I preferred as both were good but neither were ‘best of genre’ but unable to resist the signature carrot cake (not gifted to me as many have claimed on their first visit) I must say that this dish truly is special – one of those rare situations where reinterpreting a classic shines a whole new light on the dish and puts something pedestrian on a pedestal, the dense spice cake rife with pineapple and coconut served in three layers separated by light cream and flecked with white chocolate.
Margherita – Tomato Sauce, Basil, Mozzarella, Grana Padano, De Padova Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Taleggio Stuffed Arancini, Black Garlic Aioli
Deep Fried French Toast, Blueberries, Lavender Strawberries, Honey Ricotta, Marcona Almonds
Skillet Fried Chicken Thighs with Semolina Waffle, Straus Organic Butter, Bacon,Vermont Maple Syrup
Chocolate Budino with Vanilla Poached Cherries, Cherry Heering Caramel, Almonds, Chantilly, Vanilla Sea Salt
Bags packed and in tow my last stop before a friend drove me to SFO was Zero Zero, the SoMA pizzeria named after the famous 00 flour featuring a brunch menu that not only included their signature pies but also some of my favorite brunch foods and dessert. The brainchild of Chef Colin Dewey and owner Bruce Hill it was decided that a walk-in without reservations would be our best plan and although the restaurant was packed we easily found seating at the 25 person bar downstairs, for me ideal given its proximity to the open kitchen and enormous pizza oven. Sampling widely from each section of the menu and beginning with soft, supple rice balls in an aromatic aioli, plus the restaurant’s signature Margherita both of us were impressed by the smoky blistered crust and briny kick from the Grana Padano while the center remained wet but not sloppy. Moving on to the brunch items I was happy to hear my friend select the crunchy semolina waffle topped with two brined chicken thighs and bacon not only because I wanted to try it, but because it allowed me to select the fried French Toast, a marvelous idea if I do say so myself that was surprisingly not overly oily and perfectly tinged with cinnamon finding balance in the rich ricotta and Bay Area berries. Always a ‘dessert for breakfast’ sort the meal found its end in a rich chocolate budino topped with tart cherries and boozy caramel, all smoothed out by cream and a touch of salt – a perfect ending to a great trip and perhaps the best brunch of the many I enjoyed.
Green Eggs and Ham, Summer Squash, Bread, Pickled Chanterelle
French Toast, Berries, Vanilla
Largely unaware of Central Kitchen until my server at Flour + Water brought it to my attention I quickly made Sunday Brunch reservations via smartphone while dining at Commonwealth; admittedly the brunch menu did not excite me as much as the options at dinner but with limited time and extensive dining plans between that time and my departure I figured any restaurant touting to be “of, by and for the neighborhood” couldn’t be a bad choice and if brunch were successful a future dinner could definitely be planned. A modestly sized industrial space with an attached market and wood plus concrete aplenty plus a small well culled menu service was thorough but somewhat stretched as the restaurant filled quite quickly on opening but with coffee via individual French Press and water refills timely I was never left for want as I progressed at a nice pace from pastry to savory to ‘dessert.’ Energetic but not at all ‘loud,’ and seemingly as accessible for families as for the standard Mission Hipster my meal began with the signature Sticky Bun and while I tend to think the bacon-everything story is played out there is no doubt the smoky salinity helped to balance the sweetness of the figs and caramel while, taking a different approach, the green eggs and ham opted to use the cured pork and house pickled mushrooms as a backdrop to vibrant basil hollandaise and tender, sweet squash. Rounding out a great meal the last plate to arrive resembled a single piece of bread resting in a shallow pool of vanilla cream and garnished with fresh berries but in reality the dish was more like creamy custard baked till just set – a flan with a light yeastiness and a touch more texture that I’d have gladly eaten at least a few more of…
Opening later than I’d guessed – 9am on Sunday – thus letting me explore the Mission a bit further while I waited for the Closed sign to flip to Open, Mission Pie was one of those places I’d always been meaning to visit but never made the time for; thankfully it was worth the wait. A rustic spot with rustic food including a few scones and muffins it should go without saying that although I’m sure those items were good the real reason to visit is the pie and with over a dozen options on the shelf that day I chose one slice for myself and deferred to the cute young lady behind the counter for the other, a slice of Plum Frangipane and Walnut, respectively. Topping both off with house made whipped cream the early morning scene was hipster-free and much like everything else in the area the quality of the locally sourced items truly shined in both desserts – magnificent plums with a tinge of almond overlying butter, flaky crust in one hand and caramelized walnuts, toasty and slightly bitter in the other – it was only the fact that I had more dining plans shortly thereafter that prevented me trying the apple or peach.
Open since 1962 and one of those old-world places where there are staff members who’ve been around since before I was born my primary reason for visiting Dianda’s was the oft raved St. Honore – a cake that is unfortunately not sold in individual portions but is instead reinterpreted by the bakery as small balls of choux covered with a crystalized shellac of sugar overlying light pastry cream inside. A remarkable dessert/pastry on its own but all the better when paired with a custard cream puff – also choux based but featuring dense yellow custard similar to that constituting the base of the St. Honore cake both at Dianda’s and in Paris – I really have no idea how or why an Italian Pastry shop is serving such an impressive take on a French classic but be that as it may I’d strongly suggest stopping by to anyone venturing this part of the Mission, especially given its proximity (and earlier opening hours) to Mission Pie.
A recurrent Michelin Star awardee and favorite of local critics and friends I entered Aziza as my last dinner in San Francisco with a bit of trepidation given my lack of familiarity with Moroccan cuisine and some recent reports that the restaurant had started resting on its laurels, the former something that would prove no issue at all while the later only manifested in a bit of condescending and harried service after my friend and I requested to be moved from the dark, dank, and stagnant back room to the more interesting and temperature appropriate main dining area up front. Featuring the cuisine of self-trained chef Mourad Lahlou and the pastries of Melissa Chou in a dining room I can only describe as ‘heavy’ the decision of the evening was whether to pursue the tasting menu or to order a la carte and with both my friend and I happy to share we inevitably decided to go a la carte as the choice allotted for more varied dishes and desserts, though unfortunately the restaurant was inflexible to allowing us to even order a single tasting menu item a la carte. Focusing first on the cocktails, an interesting selection focusing on individual spirits presented in one of three variations I quite enjoyed the tropical interpretation of gin and moving on to appetizers both the spreads and the cheese were rather straight forward while the beets proved dynamic, balanced, and truly interesting in the interaction of sweet, heat, and creamy all in the same plate. Unable to resist the signature Basteeya there is a definite reason this sweet/savory disk has become the restaurant’s signature and with large portions of the duck, dorade, and lamb all beautifully prepared with touches of sweet and acid playing foil to the proteins we were both impressed by each. Having heard that desserts in the restaurant were not to be missed the decision was made to order one of each and true to the word all were texturally brilliant and not overly sweet – the currant and green tea options actually bordering on savory, the fennel meringues actually too much so in my opinion though my friend felt differently and enjoyed all the desserts but the Strawberry which we both felt was simply run-of-the-mill compared to the others. A really good meal with the total bill tallying just a shade over $100/pp I cannot say I’ve had a lot of experience with Moroccan food, but chef Lahlou’s cuisine has definitely made me wish to remedy that.
Brown Sugar with Ginger Caramel Swirl and Coffee Toffee
New location, same great ice cream and artisan provisions but this time in the same exact store. From local artisans like Acme, Blue Bottle, Ritual, Four Barrel, and Cowgirl Creamery to items from Mast Brothers, Stumptown, Sightglass and more plus prepped foods, sandwiches, and more this is the sort of store every city wishes it had and with plenty of things to be sampled I’d strongly suggest grabbing a few scoops of ice cream to go, particularly anything touting caramel.
