Located on Detroit Avenue and providing locals with everything from Vegan Cuisine and Good Coffee to local Art and Sounds, Gypsy Beans & Baking Company is an independently owned Bistro offering an all-day menu plus baked goods in a comfortable setting, a sampling of seven items on Sunday morning showing good skills with a focus on Quickbreads, Brownies, Cookies and Muffins.
Located in a slowly growing Arts District, patrons on this particular day sparse as the restaurant did good business with to-go orders, it was after lengthy perusal of options that choices were selected, the still-warm Cinnamon Roll undoubtedly the best of the group beneath a slather of Cream Cheese icing while the Carrot Cake Muffin was also quite good and chock-full-of spice beneath an even thicker layer of the same Frosting.
Disappointed in the dried-out Banana Nut Bread, while the Scone was more a triangular Muffin than the British version juxtaposing pockets of Butter to those of Sugar, better bites were found amongst the fluffy Peanut Butter Muffin studded with Chocolate Chips, the Oatmeal Raisin a well-done bakehouse standard but not particularly memorable when compared to the thick and fudgy Brownie topped in Butterscotch Chips.
Impressed by El Carnicero, in love with Breakfast and unable to make it to Momocho due to their hours it seemed only logical to visit Chef Eric Williams’ kitschy breakfast nook, Jackflaps, on Sunday before heading West to Cedar Point, the experience a bit more hit n’ miss than the prior day’s brunch, though the majority of five plates were still pretty great.
Located on Lorain Avenue and pairing the narrow room to a well-culled menu of innovative fare plus a few monthly specials diners entering Jack Flaps before eight o’clock are likely to find little-to-no wait with the line expanding exponentially as 9:00am approaches, the service a blend of off-the-cuff fun and overall professionalism, a few small questions answered as coffee is filled…and kept full consistently.
Amused by the photographic depictions of Milk in motion and commenting on what a messy photoshoot that must have been it was after perhaps twenty minutes that plates began to arrive en mass from the kitchen, the Shrimp and Grits a competent spin on the Southern Classic with a lot of nuance added by Bacon Crème Fraiche while the otherwise well-made Croque Madame was marred by Bechamel that was slightly over-thickened.
Moving on to two sweet specials and one item whose order was inspired by brunch at El Carnicero, those fancying Pumpkin will be disappointed to know that the “Sweet Punkin” French Toast really tastes nothing like the orange Gourd that it is presumably named, after but instead like aromatic Spices and the included Blackberry Syrup – the “Pecan Pie” Flapjacks doing a far better job of rousing thoughts of its namesake while the torched Rice Pudding may be the best darn version on this side of the Atlantic as shattering sugar gives way to mixed textures of soft grains juxtaposing housemade Granola and fresh Berry Compote.
Primo Assaggio (Charcuterie di Trentina) – Polenta Crackers with House Cultured Butter and Ohio Egg Botarga, Beef Tongue, House Speck, Llama Sausage, Pickled Carrots, Pears and Broccoli Stems
Beast – Foie Gras Roasted over Hay, House Focaccia, Pistachio Butter, Concord Grape Puree
*ADD ON* Cavatelli En Fonduta – Blistered Grapes, Brown butter Radicchio, Taleggio, Brewer’s Sugar
Re-Do – A Second Look at a Course you Enjoyed previously
Formaggio – Trenta Grana Custard Tart, Smoked Almonds, Ohio Honey
Seasonal Single Origin Drip Coffee from Rising Star Coffee Roasters
Dolci – Fennel-Orange Panna Cotta, Fennel Frawns, Chocolate-Anise Cookies, Tomato and Basil Powder
*ALTERNATIVE DESSERT* S’mores – Toasted Marshmallow Fluff, Dark Chocolate Semifreddo, Cocoa Nibs, Graham Cracker
GRAZIE – Carrot Cake Bites, Date Syrup, Smoked Cream Cheese Frosting
Having watched the buzz about Jonathon Sawyer grow slowly ever since a since a somewhat hit-and-miss experience at The Greenhouse Tavern in 2012 it was with great anticipation that a reservation at Trentina was made for three people at 6:30 Saturday evening, the $115 Menu Bianco proving not only that the Chef has indeed developed over the intervening years, but also that there may be a place for upscale locavore dining in Cleveland.
Opened in 2014, a James Beard Award for the Chef soon to follow, Trentina sees Sawyer and Chef De Cuisine David Kocab take on the concept of Northern Italian cuisine by way of Ohio Farmers, the classic plates of the Trentino region reinterpreted with a focus on bold flavors focused on simple elegance at the peak of season.
Taking over an old building on the edge of CWRU Campus, the interior sparsely designed but decorated with bold abstracts that couple with the mellow soundtrack to offer a casual elegance to the night, it was at one of several four-tops that our trio was seated and with menus already in place the only question was how much a la carte to be added, the eventual decision being three plates plus one significant substitution.
Well portioned for a tasting, each course following Thomas Keller’s idea of the plate being satisfying while still leaving diners for want of ‘one more bite,’ dining began with three forms of housemade charcuterie including Llama Sausage plus shaved Egg ‘bottarga,’ the richness and funk well compensated by way of house pickles including semi-sweet Pears and otherwise thrown-away ‘rescued’ Broccoli stems.
Preaching whole food usage and sustainability, Ricotta Fritters dusted with the dehydrated peel of Tomatoes while a plate of raw Trout found nuance in Beets, Pickled Pears and Paw-Paw, course four featured the first “add-on” option, Trentina’s much praised Potato Pizza showing brightly with yeasty bubbles and great pliability beneath a hint of ash, rich Ragu and Provolone Cheese tinged in Rosemary.
Showing a great degree of diversity as the menu progresses, courses to follow including Grilled Maitakes over an unfried cube of Bamboo rice “Arancini,” Pan Seared Sweet Potato Gnocchi brought into season with Cinnamon and Apples plus a delicate filet of Red Snapper unbagged tableside with notes of Wine and Artichokes, one of the highlights of Trentina’s everyday menu is undoubtedly the Bread service, a crisp balloon of air and sour notes already delicious and all the better when dipped in the slowly melting Beef Fat Candle.
Adding three portions of pasta to the meal, two available in an appetizer size while the crispy-edged Lasagna is only offered as a weighty full rectangle, one would be hard pressed to fault any aspect of the trio’s price-point or execution, the “Beef Osso Bucco” pairing Shank to springy Gnocchetti while Cavatelli went off the grid to set seared Grapes next to Radicchio poached in Brown Butter, the tasting-only ‘Estruso’ perhaps envisioned during a brainstorming session for Sawyer’s Noodlecat concept as the tubes of Rigatoni sang beneath funky “XO Sauce” and Parmesan.
Well sated at this point, even a single added plate likely too much for the average diner when put on-top of the Menu Bianco, savories ended in roasted Delicata Squash from a nearby farm followed by a slice of Duck Liver given the “PB&J” treatment over housemade Focaccia, the clever concept of a “Re-Do” presented giving diners a second look at a course he or she enjoyed previously.
Using regional Italian Cheese to make a custard topped in smoked almonds and local Honey before moving onto dessert, the Panna Cotta an all-out disaster both in terms of its rubbery texture and off-putting flavor, better bites were found in the campfire favorite Semifreddo accompanied by toasted Marshmallows and Graham Cracker crumble, one last bite of Carrot Cake better than either of the desserts in the opinion of nearly everyone in the dining room and thankfully sending all off with fond memories of what is the first ‘destination-worthy’ meal I have had in the State of Ohio.
Proving that great Coffee can now even be found in ‘fly-over country’ Cleveland’s Duck-Rabbit Coffee takes the “do one thing, do it well” concept to a Brooklyn or Portland-esque level by house roasting every Bean served on premises, the cutesy logo and name no indication whatsoever that these folks are not serious about their craft.
All exposed brick, reclaimed wood and metal stools, the money more importantly invested in high end burr grinders, hoppers, roasters and an industry standard Espresso machine from La Marzocco the choices at Duck-Rabbit Coffee are relatively straightforward with three varietals and a focus on Pour-Over, Espresso, or Cappuccino, the careful medium-roast clean and smooth regardless of brewing method, a slight hint of residual acid making sweetener completely unnecessary amidst the single-origin Kayon’s jammy notes and a bold Cocoa aroma.
Established in 1999 and thus a relative newcomer to an Ohio Ice Cream scene already crowded by Tofts, Graeter’s, Handel’s and Jeni’s, Mitchell’s Ice Cream has done an tremendous job of expanding their brand into several stores stretched across multiple cities, brothers Mike and Pete taking the idea of local sourcing perhaps further than any other brand based in the Buckeye State.
Not going to great lengths in order to reinvent the wheel, but instead focusing on classic flavors crafted from hormone-free, Farm-Fresh Dairy, Herbs, and Fruits plus Fair-trade Coffee, Cocoa and more, entry to the sizable location at 11444 Uptown Ave near the Museum of Contemporary Art brings patrons face-to-face with friendly clerks ready to offer samples of some two-dozen varieties that are served as Scoops, Shakes or one of several Sundaes.
Squeezing their own juices in house while also making crisp yet flexible Waffle Cones from scratch, first tastes of the Mitchell’s base quickly reminds one of the medium-dairy fat texture of Ben & Jerry’s as opposed to the thick richness of artisans like Salt & Straw or Bi-Rite, the Key Lime a fun bite with chunks of Pie Crust mixed in for variety while the Banana Cream Pie oddly comes off somewhat artificial, as too does the “Coffee” ordered by one in the party as the taste is far too milky and sweet compared to that of Jeni’s.
Impressed by a few samples of Chocolate, and equally so by two long-time favorites eschewed by many of the more eclectic artisans currently slinging scoops across the United States, eventual selections included silky Butter Pecan that saw roasted nut notes well placed alongside mild salinity, the Pralines and Cream replacing salty with sweet but executing just as nicely while pretty much every choice featuring Caramel also well-worth a taste.
Describe as an “innovative, hip and exciting tamaleria and taqueria” from Chef Eric Williams of Momocho fame, El Carnicero occupies a modern space in the Westside suburb of Lakewood, a Saturday brunch proving the perfect place to reconvene with family mere moments after the restaurant’s 11 o’clock opening.
Playing on the success of its older sister, but upping the stakes in terms of size and accessibility since opening in early 2014, entry to El Carnicero sees diners quickly greeted by a hostess at the podium, bar seats favored by some while others are offered one of four distinct dining areas, a hightop adjacent a television showing Soccer plenty large enough to spread out for a four-course meal comprised of classic Mexican concepts reinterpreted with a dose of creativity.
Truly a vast space, the U-shaped bar bigger than many whole restaurants with modern art of fisticuffs juxtaposing Luchador masks lining the walls, it was to friendly service from a young man who seemed to be working solo that we were treated over the course of 85-minutes, his recommendations given without typical “everything is good” indifference and thus yielding what can legitimately be said to be truly memorable dining experience.
Presenting a menu topped by several Dips with housemade Chips as singles or trios for some savings, round one saw the kitchen send forth three bowls of Guacamole given some ‘Cheffed-up’ treatment, the Goat Cheese version easily the most ‘typical’ despite a bit of added funk and up-front brininess while both the Smoked Trout and Bacon as well as the Crab and Pickled Corn offered plenty of nuance with a pronounced bit of flavor from each of their respective ingredients.
Allowed to order piece-meal, no goofy rules about placing the entire order at once forcing diners to guess at portion sizes versus hunger, plates to follow consisted of two Vegetarian options as well as the spicy Chorizo Tamale, each bite seeing a Masa base topped by Pork, Spinach and Hominy while the Mole style carrots were bitter-sweet and snappy yet tender, El Carnicero’s Creamed Corn a true work of art imparted with an aromatic backbone by way of Achiote.
Originally debating the Mushroom Tamale for round two, but told that the sweet-meets-savory amalgam of Curried Cauliflower, Almonds and Raisins was far more compelling, suffice it to say that the server was spot-on in his suggestion for a whose whole is far greater than the sum of its parts, the Brunch-only “AM Burrito” a bit more ‘common’ but no less delicious as it was stuffed with Black Beans and Coffee braised Brisket.
Limited in terms of desserts, only one daily special offered normally but in the case of Brunch coupled to a Horchata inspired bowl, those looking for something sweet are encouraged to invest in the Almond Cake and Caramel Parfait if it is offered while diners familiar with Chef Williams’ Jack Flaps concept will be happy to know that the brûléed Rice Pudding is every bit as good given the Latin treatment as subtle notes of Coconut peek through the Berries, Granola and Cinnamon.
Apricot Kolachy, Cream Cheese Kolachy, Butterballs with Walnuts, Fig and Date Cucadati, Buckeyes
Rainbow Cookies, Birthday Cookies
One of many family-owned spots amidst Cleveland’s compact and oft-overlooked Little Italy, Corbo’s Bakery and nearby rival Presti’s have long competed for the title of Northeast Ohio’s best place for Cookies, Cassata Cake and Cannoli, an endorsement from Mario Batali still not enough to sway locals lured in by the latter’s polish and café style seating, but undoubtedly a point of view that carries serious weight amongst travelers – and one that proved to be truthful on an October Saturday morning.
Long and shotgun straight, from entryway to the kitchen in back, Corbo’s Bakery stuffs the space at 12210 Mayfield Road with the sort of scene recognizable from the streets of New York or Boston while eschewing the high prices and recognizable Bronx accents, the same family still in charge after 50+ years, though the staff on this particular day was mostly comprised of CWRU students that were perfectly pleasant despite audibly being heard throughout the visit describing late-night shenanigans from the previous evening.
Taking time to peruse the options, bakers from the back filing out with cookies, cakes and more to replenish store shelves, it was after some deliberation that a total of thirteen items were selected and taken to one of two small high-tops for indulgence, a few repeats and leftovers saved for later and eventually shared with visiting family.
Priced slightly higher than Presti’s when compared item-for-item, but making up for the hike by focusing on small details like filling Cannoli to order, it was with a loud crack that the lengthy cylinder gave way to smooth Mascarpone filling, the Sfogliatelle an equally shattering experience with springy coils launching Confectioner’s Sugar skyward as teeth plunged into the Citrus-scented Ricotta center.
Famed for its Cassata Cake, essentially a Strawberry Shortcake upgraded by a rich layer of Custard, it can only be assumed that the Crocs-clad Celebrity Chef visited during the height of Summer when he deemed the item “best I have ever tried in the USA,” several not-yet-ripe fruit slices marring an otherwise decent cake-slice while an Italian Cookie collection proved far more compelling, the Buckeyes and Butterballs a throwback to Childhood while the freshly made Rainbow Cookies were perhaps the best *I* have ever tasted.
Located in the suburb of Northfield, a thirty minute drive from Downtown Cleveland in average traffic, Stan’s Northfield Bakery occupies a tiny space amidst Laundromats and Autoparts Stores on Olde 8 Road, the family owned and operated site generating the majority of its traffic from a nearby middleschool and other local businesses…not to mention accolades for Northeast Ohio’s very best Pierogis and other Eastern European specialties.
Open since 1961, baker Stanley Srodek’s recipes all time-honored traditions handed down from his Polish-Catholic upbringing to the current third-generation ownership, a first look at Stan’s is like a step back to simpler times as glass and metal cases nearly fill the entirety of the retail space with store windows also lined in sweet temptations, the back-half of the building reserved for baking that starts before 3am Monday through Saturday.
Even smaller than it looks from the outside, a Standing Room Only sign probably as warranted as any on the door, it was after brief perusal of several options that an order was conveyed to an elderly woman behind the counter, a total of eight items tallying $13.45 Cash and taken to a nearby park to be devoured.
Dining solo at the time, and thus unable to partake in several styles of Pie or luxurious looking Nut Bread, it was instead with four cookies that the tasting got started, the Snickerdoodle and Seasonal Butter Drop absolutely perfect with meltingly soft centers surrounding by crisp rings while the Peanut Butter and Oatmeal Craisin were equally well crafted, though not particularly different from those that can be found at most good bakeries.
Intrigued by the “Fritter,” essentially a fried Apple Streudel that eats lighter than the traditional version but comes off a bit greasy due to cooking oil flooding the pocket’s fold, a better bite was found in the moist Pumpkin Fry-Cake slathered in Buttercream and Cinnamon Streusel while year-round Paczki virtually unheard of elsewhere are every bit as good as those found around Lent in Polish neighborhoods, the nut paste version itself good while the “Big Butt” named to many local ‘best-of’ lists offers the pillowy lard-fried treat sliced in half and wrapped around a cloud of Vanilla Meringue.
Located south of the City, a neighborhood spot serving Northeast Ohioans since 1937, it was straight off the plane that the GPS was pointed to Jack Frost Donuts, a recent rebrand of the “every batch from scratch” destination showing signs of artisan aspirations with prices that likely would not have been accepted just a few years prior.
Found at 4960 Pearl Road, a busy intersection seemingly only trafficked for fried dough at 7:00 o’clock on a Saturday morning, Jack Frost boasts featuring over 200 varieties of Donuts depending on date and season, arrival bringing patrons face-to-face with at least forty on this particular morning, a friendly woman attending her first day on the job nonetheless offering excellent customer service.
Known for styles including fritters, cake and yeasted, many piled high with housemade frostings and all ingredients both sweet and savory, it was in letting three families place orders that the options were evaluated, a half-dozen plus one truly enormous fritter costing $16 after tax and tip, everything boxed to go as Jack Frost does not offer any seating.
Trending smaller than many with the rings, four cake and two raised comprising the order, those fancying tradition will be happy to know that Jack Frost’s Blueberry is not the traditional mix-base but rather stuffed full of natural flavors, the German Chocolate standing tall and proud with bittersweet cocoa note finding its foil in subtly sweet whip and a layer of Coconut Praline Frosting.
Rare to order Maple Bacon, but told by an elderly gentleman that this one was ‘really good,’ first tastes of the yeasted ring yielded a wispy crumb with a surprisingly natural sweetness amidst the porky sapor, a Salty Caramel follow-up unfortunately a bit more cloying with any ‘saltiness’ lost amidst all the sugar.
More than a bit impressed by the moisture and richness of Red Velvet, the Cream Cheese Frosting just sour enough to know it isn’t Buttercream, S’mores proved a mixed experience as the Donut itself was good while Marshmallows were unfortunately a bit stale, the nearly 2lb Fritter saved for last truly one of those “you need to see it to believe it” creations with a grease-free Monkey Bread-like base swirled with Cinnamon and topped to order with a ladle of Pie-filling style apples.
Edible Art – Beet Red Velvet Cake, Mascarpone Cheese, Raspberries
Double Espresso with Ice
Dark Chocolate Souffle – Vanilla Ice Cream
Continuing to reinvent a restaurant that many in-the-know diners already consider to be Las Vegas’ very best, Le Cirque’s Autumn 2016 menu sees now-30-year-old Chef Wilfried Bergerhausen evolving a personal style that pushes the boundaries of luxury by way of classic technique infused with innovation, several new service vessels elevating modern-classics previously tasted while new dishes show signs of talent in a continuous state of exploration and refinement.
Catching brief glimpses of the process by way of Social Media, both the Chef and 18-year Bellagio veteran Ivo Angelov occasionally sharing their vision online along with well-deserved accolades from various publications, it was again with Carte Blanche given to the kitchen that a party of two sat down in the circus-themed space overlooking the Bellagio Fountains, the service a parade of jovial formality where first-time visitors are seemingly seen just as valuable as old friends.
Truly the best time of year to visit Le Cirque, early season White Truffles ready to perfume the jewel-box space, dinner began with the sparkling Raspberry Cocktail that almost seems requisite at this point, a canapé of Nasturtium Flower presented on a pedestal beside it with Salmon Mousse and Caviar plus a trio of edible Fall Leaves.
Impossible to resist the Bread Service, all five warm selections as good as ever with the stamped Butter from overseas, course two brought serviceware from Griona to Las Vegas as a means to present a curl of Yellowtail Salad by the Seaside, Le Crabe to follow still Las Vegas’ most captivating dish and now upgraded by a black rock from El Celler de Can Roca, the individual Roe now painstakingly Gold-Dipped and eye-popping amidst the cold steam.
As masterful with Soups as he is with Sauces, dish four would see the young Chef go back to his rural French upbringing in the form of an elaborate terrarium referencing the forest floor, each warm bite a textural exploration of earthy flavors occasionally punctuated by acid or salinity, the follow-up a far more classic offering in which a nugget of Tuber magnatum was left tableside with a shaver and two orbs of Parmesan Risotto – the instructions to garnish as desired.
Taking a pause to look back at the restaurant’s heritage, Chef Daniel Boulud’s Potato Crusted Sea Bass one of a handful of Le Cirque Classics currently highlighting the prix-fixe or a la carte menus, suffice it to saw Wilfried does justice to both the fish and its decadent Pinot Noir reduction, though one might equally say that the rich sauce accompanying Le Caille is equally worthy of such elevated status.
Tasting a few splashes of wine with the meal’s final savories, presentation once more saw an upgrade with the arrival of “La Joue de Veau,” a long silver box displaying what seems to be Black and White Truffles soon revealed to be two juicy Veal Cheeks coated in Black Trumpet Mushrooms, a bed of White Truffles laid down first and subsequently flooded with aromatic Sauce Perigueux.
Taking the Cocktail palate cleanser to Autumn by way of a boozy Pear Bon-Bon kissed with Cinnamon it was with Coffee served that the evening concluded in a classic Dark Chocolate Soufflé plus Chef Bergerhausen’ retooled Red Velvet Cheesecake that was unquestionably delicious while simultaneously proposing the question of if and when food becomes art.
FIVE STARS: On par with any Michelin Two Star experienced in 2016 and in some instances surpassing the food of Restaurants “worth a Special Journey,” Le Cirque continues to raise the stakes for Las Vegas upper echelon of dining, a trend seen since its young Chef took over and one that shows no signs of slowing.
RECOMMENDED: Le Crabe, La Joue de Veau, Le Caille, Savoyarde Sunchoke Soup, Red Velvet Cheesecake.
AVOID: That Bread Service…if you can.
TIP: The White Truffle Menu was launched 10/13 and will continue from White to Black through Winter, the current Alba Whites available at three courses for $195 and topping out at eight for $520 per person.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Surprisingly unknown to two Filipino friends and one Chef who fancies the cuisine, while another alternatively touted the restaurant at 6820 West Flamingo Road as one of the best in town, it was with five friends and their children that a long table was filled in D’Pinoy Joint at noon on Saturday, the experience both hit and miss as relates to everything from the environment to service and food.
Owned by immigrants to a city known for one of the most rapidly growing Filipino populations in the United States, their goal to serve authentic tastes of native cuisine to those familiar and first-timers alike, D’Pinoy Joint features a sizable menu chock-a-block filled with Pork and other meaty options, most portions appropriate for sharing with a banquet space offered for those hosting parties up to sixty or more next door.
Oddly decorated to say the least, half of the restaurant featuring scenes of daily life or traditional dance in the Philippines while the rest is a mish-mash of aquarium fish, motivational posters and spiritual things, it was several minutes after seating that service was eventually flagged down for ordering, a total of twelve menu items selected and delivered with what must have been at least six cups of rice.
Certainly not fine dining, plates dropped off without descriptions and water glasses more frequently empty than not, lunch began with a duo of appetizers appropriately delivered before several larger options, the crispy Lumpaing and spongy Fish Balls each served scalding hot from the fryer with sidecars of Sweet & Sour Sauce, both readily sharable amongst the group though neither were anything different from what might be found at any local Dim Sum spot.
Making the mistake of adding un-fried $5.99 Garlic Rice to the complimentary mounds of white stuff, the only difference a shake of dehydrated powder and a teaspoon of toasted Cloves, larger plates began to arrive fast and furious just as appetizers were finished, the Tortang Talong far more flaccid than one might expect with a substantial coat of oil while the Eggplant served beneath a hunk of deep fried Pork Hock was substantially more delicious amidst thinly sliced Jalapenos and a thick smear of funky Shrimp Paste.
A bit surprised at how flavorless the Mongo Guisado was, particularly as the smell was particularly off-putting to more than one at the table, far better bites were found in the Sizzling Pork Sisig and plate of thinly sliced Beef Chuck, each emitting an aromatic plume of steam on arrival while the Kare-Kare was easily the best plate on the table with bone-in bits of Oxtail juxtaposing soft Beef Stomach in a Creamy Peanut Sauce.
Ready to drop a bill without suggesting dessert, the wait staff seemingly ready to be rid of patrons at 1:30pm even though the room was less than 1/6 full, it was with Ube Halaya “sold out,” or not yet delivered, that three alternatives were selected, the Halo-Halo a typically bizarre mash-up of crushed Ice, Fruit and starches while the Mais Con Yelo and Puto Bumbong were far more attention-grabbing, the former essentially a Cream Corn Sundae served as a Shake while the latter was something like Taffy in its texture beneath the sweet/savory juxtaposition of Coconut, Granulated Sugar and toasted Sesame Seeds.
THREE STARS: Overlooking the somewhat-expected service issues and décor that seems oddly out-of-place, D’Pinoy Joint offers a good look at Filipino cooking in an environment built for sharing, the majority of the food quite good and said by respected sources to be relatively authentic to the Island’s traditional cuisine.
RECOMMENDED: Oxtail Kare Kare, Sizzling Bistek, Binagoongan Crispy Pata with Eggplant, Mais Con Yellow.
TIP: Open 10a-10p daily, with lunch specials offered for $7.99 11a-4p Monday through Friday, a second location apparently upcoming somewhere “@Las Vegas Blvd Outlet Mall” per the website.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Gluten Conscious Triple Chocolate Cookie with Walnuts
Gluten Conscious Monster Cookie
Cobblestone
Pumpkin Muffie
Apple Crunch Muffin
Once a dining staple, a quiet location in Northwest Ohio providing bottomless Coffee one of the primary drivers of a caffeine addiction unlikely to ever wane, Panera Bread has remained a place to relax and browse the internet as I’ve moved West through Phoenix and onto Las Vegas, a lackluster recent visit to Kneaders making me wonder just how the current baked goods at the Quick-causal mainstay compare.
Having at this point not eaten a bite at the restaurant in nearly nine years, but none-the-less memorizing their greetings and selections by way of the friendly clerks and longtime General Manager at the Bakery-Café just down the street, it was for an abbreviated Saturday Breakfast that parking was located during the Seasonal Art Walk and briefly perusing a selection of crafts that made me long for days back in the Midwest it was with far more deliberation that the freshly stocked shelves of Panera were investigated, a total of nine items ringing in at just over $20 and consumed, in parts, over the course of six hours traveling around town.
Laid out in a more open format than other Panera Bread stores in town, the high ceilings and divided sections plus an outdoor patio helpful for relocating in case of loud children, over-aggressive Air Conditioning or the Red Hat crowd, it was with items both boxed and plated that seating was found at a small banquet with one of the sparsely located electrical outlets, a soundtrack ranging from ChVrches to Tame Impala and TV on the Radio as the internet creeped along, Boca Park inexplicably having not yet upgraded to industry standard WiFi Speeds as of yet.
Focusing recently on “going clean,” an amusing phrase considering both my job and hobbies, a look at Panera’s recent lineup includes several Autumnal Flavors looking to capitalize on “Limited Time Only” and “Back by Popular Demand” shenanigans, first bites of a ‘Cinnamon Crunch’ Snickerdoodle showing the soft Cookie to be no different than any other recipe, though the homogeneity from edge-to-edge made it generally underwhelming, the “Gluten Conscious” Monster and Triple Chocolate versions far more interesting as the first was punched up with everything from Nuts and Fruit to Chocolate with the latter particularly impressive by way of its chewiness and textural variance.
Knowing better than to take a chance on laminated options, the ‘dough’ pre-frozen and from a bag as witnessed at locations with a more open kitchen, Scones at Panera eat much more like the American dessert pastry than their crumbly British counterparts, the experience made even more ‘Merica by the addition of over-the-top sweet toppings, the Wild Blueberry version eating much like a Blueberry Muffin elsewhere while others might as well be served as Cake slices, though the seasonal Caramel Apple Thumbprint really is quite delicious comforting when warmed up and eaten in the proper context.
Completely underwhelmed by the “Cobblestone,” a lumpy sort of Brioche Muffin that seems to play on concepts of Monkey Bread and Fritters without properly executing on either, the Pumpkin Muffie comes off strangely dry considering the typical moisture content of its supposed constituents, the Apple Crunch Muffin a far better overall experience with small bits of Streusel mixed into the batter along with a whole lot of Cinnamon and dehydrated Apple Chips.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: Generally a nice place to study and browse the internet, free Coffee refills and a wide variety of sweeteners plus creams available, Panera Bread is nonetheless ‘food for the masses’ sold in a slightly prettier package, the current “Clean” campaign just window dressing for to justify high prices as calorie counts and taste of most items are no different than what one might find at any number of other chain restaurants.
RECOMMENDED: Triple Chocolate Cookie, Caramel Apple Thumbprint Scone, Apple Crunch Muffin, Bottomless Coffee.
AVOID: Cobblestone, Snickerdoodle, arriving during peak-times when the limited electrical outlets are all occupied and Internet lag is pronounced.
TIP: Having visited five of the six local Panera Bread locations with some regularity over the last three years their impressive staff retention speaks volumes about the work environment, every member typically smiling and helpful with the clerks at the Boca Park location particularly pleasant regardless of time or day of the week.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Honey Panna Cotta – Fig Jam, Macerated Figs, Petit Buerre, Lemon Gelee, Rosemary Sorbet
One of the rare Las Vegas Steakhouses worthy of repeat visits by season, Autumn at Jean Georges Steakhouse sees Chef Sean Griffin and Pastry Chef Darcee Lynn once again raising the bar by way of technique and sourcing quality, a recent visit from Chef Vongerichten and Sean’s travels to Singapore further infusing the broad-ranging menu with subtle Asian inspiration.
At this point the only remaining restaurant from Aria’s original second floor, The Buffet not included, this third visit to Jean Georges Steakhouse was accompanied by a friend returning from summer in upstate New York and although the restaurant seemed a bit lean at the time of an early reservation the space was energetic by 7:00p and nearly packed by 8:30.
Seated at restaurant center this time, a large party occupying the entire upper level near the Wine wall, it was with greetings from management as well as Chef Griffin that the Carte Blanche tasting got started, a few personal suggestions incorporated into the middle courses but beginning with a warm Beignet crowned with Osetra Caviar and filled with intense Lemon Vodka Crème Fraiche.
Wary of the Bread Basket, though two were mostly finished over the subsequent three hours, course two saw Sean present one classic reinvented alongside one completely new dish, the Bacon Wrapped Shrimp resting in pureed Persimmons infused with Star Anise and Coriander via pressure cooker while fresh-picked Dungeness Crab was offered by way of delicate wonton wrappers in a crystal clear broth of Celery Root and Meyer Lemon lightly accented with Ginger and Lemon Zest.
Finding the music down a notch from prior, the space given a pulse but not so loud that one needs to shout in order to be heard, plates four and five featured a seasonal salad comprised of ingredients from the Intuitive Forager’s Market served adjacent Seared Foie Gras with Chanterelles, Figs and Port Wine reduction, the former featuring a hint of Mexico by way of Chili and Citrus while the later proved a truly unique way of accentuating the meatier flavors of Duck Liver while still managing to mitigate its intrinsic richness.
Going “American” by way of Jean George for course four, the city’s boldest Bone Marrow served with tender bits of meat still clinging on at the ends, suffice it to say that no discussion of the Las Vegas’ best Fried Chicken is complete without taking the Tempura-battered cutlet served over soft Spinach and Buttered Hot Sauce into consideration, the Initialed Cheeseburger no less a competitor in its respective genre as ground Wagyu Chuck sees a whole lot of flavor added by Trim from other cuts, the combination of Brie and Yuzu working far better than one might guess while small chunks of Black Truffle dotted the Mayonnaise and crispy Fries served as a side dish.
Continuing a campaign to prove Salmon can be great, the meaty filet served with a crust of Citrusy Breadcrumbs atop Root Vegetables with a smear of housemade Sriracha, sides included tender Brussel Sprouts served with a dollop of Quince Mustard, Nuts and Bacon Strips, the Crunchy Potatoes a bit spicy for more mild palates while the tasting menu’s Wagyu Tenderloin was an beautifully prepared piece of Steer even before the Garlic Miso and Black Truffle upgrade.
Turning to Chef Lynn for desserts, two new seasonal compositions joining an already strong lineup, both the Cranberry Pavlova and Honey Panna Cotta met mixed reviews from my dining partner who professes to “not be a sweets person,” the Cranberry Compote admittedly a bit harsh for those who do not prefer the ingredient whole the Panna Cotta was smooth as silk alongside Butter Cookies and Figs in two textures, the “safer” choice being Darcee’s Salted Caramel Sundae or the cast-iron skillet Market Apple Pie that remains the best in Las Vegas.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Taking more chances than most Steakhouses in town, and operating without a safety net by focusing on purity of flavors without overcrowding each plate, Jean Georges Steakhouse remains one of the few restaurants in its genre capable of reinventing itself seasonally without losing a bit of what made it great in the first place, as true a testament as any to the strength of its owner’s trust in the skilled and passionate kitchen staff.
RECOMMENDED: Seared Foie Gras, Crunchy Organic Chicken, JG Cheeseburger, Brussel Sprouts, Bone Marrow, Market Apple Pie.
AVOID: If one were to issue any complaint against the current menu it would be that the use of spice in items such as the Shrimp and Crunchy Potatoes seem a bit too aggressive while service in the restaurant’s lower level occasionally appeared strained with empty water glasses common and share plates delivered well after courses were presented.
TIP: According to the Chef, Jean Georges Steakhouse will be undergoing mild renovations in the coming year in order to better ‘fit’ the current Second Floor Restaurant Collection.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Shrimp n’ Grits – Florida shrimp, crisp Virginia ham, Nora Mill Granary grits
Short Ribs – 14oz Short Rib, Charred Corn, Green Beans, Sweet Garlic Bordelaise, Cauliflower Mashed Potatoes
Swine Burger – short rib, brisket, and chuck blend, house smoked pork belly, house pickles, american cheese, thick cut tomato, pickled onions, lettuce, house fries
Mason Jar Pumpkin Shake – House made Pumpkin Pie, Vanilla Ice Cream, Whipped Cream, Caramel Drizzle
Having celebrated with family and friends several times at Yardbird it seemed only right to call on the Venetian’s “Southern Table & Bar” for a close friend’s special day, Chefs Sandra Palomo and Keris Kuwana going above and beyond even the highest expectations to present a birthday brunch for six that continues to speak of a restaurant willing to go the extra mile in order to please.
Now marking a dozen visits to the restaurant, admitting that I’m a fan and known-entity beside the point, it was just past 1:00pm that the group checked in at the hostess podium and quickly led to the Private Dining Room the subsequent two-hours would be spent in total contentment, the menu arranged in advance with Sandra with everything tailored to our needs – from the noise level to tongue-in-cheek condiments.
Essentially a family gathering, all the others related and none but myself having ever experienced the South-by-50Eggs hospitality that would soon see smiles around the room, it was almost immediately on entry that the surprises started coming, a Happy Birthday table display complete with two Cakes, Cupcakes and Pig-shaped Shortbreads alone more than enough to feed a dozen before we even took our seats.
Serenaded by the likes of Queens of The Stoneage followed by The White Stripes as conversation flowed with ease, it was with beverages poured that share plates arrived for the first of three courses, the signature Eggs and BLT joined by the World’s best Buttermilk Biscuits and a refreshing Mango Salad that saw a lot of smoke beneath a very light slick of Benne Seed Vinaigrette.
Ordering up one of the recently retooled Swine Burgers for the youngster at the table, adults treated to Fried Chicken, Waffles, Watermelon, Shrimp and Grits, a table-favorite quickly emerged by way of the more-tender-than-remembered Beef Short Ribs that melted in the mouth amidst Cauliflower Mash and Grilled Green Beans.
Already looking at the desserts present as an insurmountable task it was with Coffee poured that Chef Kuwana took over the rest of the afternoon, a small collection of Donuts with various toppings presented next to creamy Pumpkin Shakes that had even doubters of Pumpkin-Spice-Everything quickly draining their glasses plus a Pastry-Board presentation of all the season’s new dessert options – the Cinnamon Roll so warm that radiating heat melted the nearby Pumpkin Latte Ice Cream while *Ultimate* Pumpkin Cheesecake paired light boozy notes to a creamy base topped in candied Pepitas.
Barely able to make a dent in the Cinnamon-rich Coffee Cake with dried Cherries at this juncture, fears of being unable to waddle out a growing concern, both the Red Velvet Cheesecake and Chocolate Nutella Cake were saved for late-evening indulgence after servers joined in on a Happy Birthday chorus, both of these choices amongst the very best slices of Cake in Sin City with the latter just about as rich and indulgent as it gets.
FIVE STARS: Obviously an experience built to thrill, it really warrants mention just how far Chefs Sandra and Keris went to make this afternoon really shine – truly a world class showing of skill and generosity from a restaurant that continues to generate big numbers by doing far more than they probably need to in order impress each guest and simultaneously improve themselves.
Now a staple of Las Vegas, with twenty-four hour locations in Henderson as well as at the Summerlin original, Pink Box Doughnuts has continued to thrive in an environment of ever-evolving competition thanks to friendly customer service and a collection of fried dough that seems to offer something new each and every week.
Owned by Roberto Armanino, a man whose birthday just so happens to coincide with that of a close friend, it was after discussion of weekly options that a mixed dozen of novelties was created, several seasonal specials joining a pretty, pink “Happy Birthday” Doughnut Cake measuring just about one foot in width.
Originally crafted in Henderson, the bakery there much larger than that on Lake Meade to the Northwest, it was late evening when two pink boxes were delivered to their final destination and tucking into twelve choices consisting of both old and new favorites the results were every bit as good as remembered, the sticky Sweet Potato ring served in a small clamshell undoubtedly one of the most impressive Doughnuts in America thanks to the subtle spicing of moist dough that serves as a deft foil to the sweetness of the glaze.
Having dramatically improved their Cronut from its initial version, though still falling short of the “better-than-Ansel” layers of lamination at ACE Donuts on Tropicana at Fort Apache, more great bites were found in the Oldschool Buttermilk bar and Raspberry Jam filled pocket complete with seeds amidst the fluffy Brioche batter, the Lemon Custard tangy without being acidic while the Mocha was unfortunately marred by a filling that was pasty with an aftertaste that quickly saw the rest set aside.
Still thinking the fritter could use more time in the fryer, ACE and Friendly both better-fitting the West Coast style of a crackling shell overlying fluffy pockets of Cinnamon and Fruit, a Pumpkin Cake ring quickly righted the ship before sailing into several filled options, the Caramel Cheesecake a long-held personal favorite though the seasonal variety was itself pretty special with an overall effect that reminded me of my Grandfather’s Thanksgiving favorite Pumpkin Pie made with Dream Whip.
FOUR STARS: One of those places where the sheer variety of choices makes it almost impossible for every item to be great, Pink Box continues to show best when focusing on filled items including seasonal Custards and Cheesecake with pricing far less than imports like Donut Bar where ownership attempts to substitute size and marketing for texture and taste.
French Onion Soup – Gruyere, Housemade Bread, Lots of Onions
Korean Shrimp Street Tacos – Soy Marinated Trio of Shrimp on Soft Corn Tortillas topped with Kimchee Slaw, Garlic Chili Mayo, Pickled Jalapenos, Micro Cilantro
Gobbler Sliders – Pulled Turkey, Cranberry Orange Jam, Traditional Sage Stuffing on CK Whole Wheat Rolls
Cuban Sandwich – Ham, Pickles, Mustard, Housemade Grilled Panini, Side Salad with Potato Chips
Now in the season of new menus, temperature drops in Sin City indicating the return of Winter residents and conference-goers, it was with one other that a visit was made to CRAFTkitchen just weeks before their first anniversary, Jaret and Tami Blinn’s labor of love continuing to entice residents of Henderson and every bit as good as it has ever been.
Continuing to see new competition in the past twelve months, imports such as Kneaders putting in half the work or passion but hoping to win patronage by way of lower prices, Autumn at CRAFTkitchen sees Chef Blinn and his staff slowly adjusting recipes to embrace the best in local produce despite ever-increasing food costs, several menu staples still present from a previous visit while those tasted make up a small part of newer items and specials from the weekend brunch.
Still brewing some of the city’s best coffee, each cup steamy and made to order with a rich mouth-feel and complex taste, it was after a long chat with the Chef about everything from Community involvement to Little League Baseball that the meal got started, a quartet of new Pastries continuing to show the skills Blinn honed during his time at Red Rock while at the same time expanding on those ideas with items like the flaky Autumn Turnover and delicate laminated Puff packed edge-to-edge with Pears and Streusel, plus a smooth Custard layer within.
Continuing to focus on natural, honest foods while expanding healthful options to those with dietary restrictions or patrons simply looking to eat something lower-calorie and great, opening plates included Smashed Avocado Toast upping the ante on other locales by way of housemade Bread and herbal Pesto, the Acai Bowl a trendy choice made better as the creamy Superfood Pudding was buoyed by fresh Bananas and Berries along with housemade Granola and Coconut Crisps.
Moving next to richer flavors, the majority of the five-course meal focused on lunch options as opposed to breakfast, CRAFTkitchen’s French Onion Soup avoids the traditional mistake of being too beefy by focusing more on a plethora of caramelized onions beneath the Cheese and Bread layer, a trio of Street Tacos placing snappy Shrimp beneath housemade Kimchee and Garlicky Mayo with an extra kick added by Jalapenos and Chili.
Telling us of his October mission to raise money and awareness for cancer by Going Pink, a concept carried over from his days at Red Rock Resort and Casino, it was with two Sandwiches that the bridge to dessert was made as the table grew fuller, the weekend-special Cuban perfect in its crisply-pressed bread and meat selection, despite being a bit heavier in Pickle than tradition may dictate, while the “Gobbler” riffs on Capriotti’s Bobbie and upgrades it considerably by way of freshly roasted pulled Turkey and housemade condiments including Cranberry Orange Jam plus traditional Sage Stuffing.
Continuing to shine with small desserts, each just enough to offer diners something sweet at the end of their meal, all six Pink Plates offered showed a balance not often achieved in casual local eateries, the Carrot Cake still a standard-bearer in bar form while the traditional Pumpkin Pie and Lemon Meringue are equally well worth tasting.
FIVE STARS: Still burning the candle at both ends as relates to running a business and raising a family, Chef Blinn truly embodies what it means to be part of the community by way of his approach to business as well as his commitment to charity, all these things plus the quality of his food continuing to make CRAFTkitchen one of the city’s most important Off-Strip places to eat.
RECOMMEDED: Pear and Streusel Puff, Apple Cranberry Turnover, French Onion Soup, Gobbler Sliders, Carrot Cake, Lemon Meringue.
AVOID: If one were to issue a complaint it would be that the bottom Avocado Toast lacked the finishing salt of the upper layer, an easy fix whether in the kitchen or by way of one of the tableside salt shakers.
TIP: The Pink Pastry promotion goes all through October with additional charity-based initiatives including special dinners soon to come – pay attention to Social Media for these as well as weekend specials.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Without a doubt the site of one of the worst Las Vegas meals in memory it took a change at the helm to provoke renewed interest in Stripsteak, Chef Tony Schutz having recently taken over the shoebox of a kitchen that serves over 300 patrons each evening, and has been doing so for ten years running.
Setting aside previous events, yet ironically seeing this reservation also compromised at the start as someone had somehow entered it for Saturday, it was with the immediate intervention of a young woman named Ashley that the appropriate information was ascertained – a tight four-top along the wall nearest the kitchen situated for three over the course of nearly four hours.
Having arranged the reservation by way of another member of Michael Mina’s collection of talent, a request for prix-fixe carte blanche happily accepted by Chef Schutz whose work at PUB1842 was significantly undervalued by locals, it was after brief greetings from the Kitchen staff and servers that cocktails were mixed for out-of-town guests while a brisk glass of Brut was poured for me, the signature Duck Fat Fries soon landing and still industry standard even compared to the best of the best seen in Brussels this past May.
Making a few small requests early on, personal favorites and those of friends easily worked in, course one saw Chef Tony start light with snappy Yellowtail Sashimi layered amidst sliced Cucumbers and Serrano Chilies, the “Crispy Rice Poppers” alternating Hamachi and Ahi Tuna Tartare atop something not unlike an Arancini with a crown of Roe and bright Citrus dressing.
Drinking the Champagne faster than usual, but finding Iced Tea and Red Wine better suited for the heavier courses to follow, three full Bones arrived next with their hemisected insides topped in smoky green Herbs alongside toasted Bread for spreading, the Braised Shortrib Ravioli not quite as refined as those at Carnevino, but still well designed as the rich pillows rested in a puddle of earthy Jus with Ricotta Salata and crispy Parsnips.
Finding pumping techno as off-putting as prior, the high-ceilinged space already loud by way of a full-house, it was after a prolonged trip to the single-person restroom that my friend came back as Chefs visibly waited patiently at the kitchen door for nearly five minutes, the signature ‘Instant Bacon’ not losing any of its effect as smoke and sweetness quickly flooded the palate while a ubiquitous Beet Salad once again evidenced that few ‘celebrity chefs’ have the same passion for produce that Michael Mina does.
Trying to show the kitchen’s diversity with entrees and additions, three grilled items and a similar number of side dishes delivered with share plates already holding Cornbread and Honey, it was during a later kitchen tour that we learned each steak is subjected to an immersion circulator bath of clarified butter before Grilling, the Rib Eye perfect medium rare with a good crust while both the Fish and Duck were cooked beautifully, the latter a new preparation for the fall season while both the Sprouts and Cauliflower are also set to be launched soon.
Unable to resist consuming every bite of the Potatoes, the multi-layered stack as rich and sizable as it was tempting, it was with only a hint of regret that we returned from the kitchen tour to find the table decked out in desserts, Pastry Chef Monica Delgadillo serving Mina’s Signature Root Beer float alongside Stripsteak’s famous Beignets plus a plate of eight small bites and the wholly hedonistic skillet of S’mores.
FOUR STARS: Still a bit too ‘trendy’ to feel like a serious restaurant where dinner for four can push $500 or more there is little to be faulted in terms of the Stripsteak kitchen under Chef Schutz, a return visit once he has had the opportunity to truly create a menu likely to make me enjoy the place even more.
RECOMMENDED: Crispy Rice Poppers, Roasted Bone Marrow, Dr. Joe’s Duck Breast, Smoked Gouda au Gratin Potatoes, Campfire S’mores, Warm Beignets.
AVOID: Both the Short Rib Ravioli and those on the Duck were too thick as relates to the noodle while the Sweets plate is fun, though there is no real standout item.
TIP: Currently celebrating their 10th Anniversary, Michael Mina’s Root Beer Float is available for a limited time only.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Not a review, but rather the fortuitous collection of three great eateries in the same place at the same time, Friday saw one of our Executives bring Friendly Donut House up from Henderson while Chris Decker from Lulu’s Bread & Breakfast and Jonathan Pluvinet from Rosallie combined to make someone special some favorites for her Birthday.
It was delicious and much appreciated by all involved.
Samples:Chocolate Croissant Bread Pudding, Lemon Poppyseed, Pistachio, Warm Apple Pie with Sour Cherry and Date Crust, Halo Halo Rice Pudding, Orange Cheesecake and Licorice
Harvest Pumpkin Brûlée
Bread Pudding with Count Chocula Gelato, Whipped Cream, Fudge and Caramel
S’Mores Cupcake
Spiced Hot Chocolate
Alfajores
Nougat
Caramel Sable Sandwich Cookies
Salty Caramel Turtle Brownie
Returning from Italy convinced that no Gelato in America compares to the best of what is found in Venice, Parma or Milan, it was late Saturday night that a stop was made at Gelatology on South Rainbow Boulevard, Chef Alberganti taking a deserved night off while her clever creations still managed to make one question whether the Italians are really *that* great.
At this point a highly anticipated Social Media highlight, Desyree’s music videos used to present the days newest flavors to fans and followers alike, it was just past 10:00pm that we entered the small shop where a few couples sat enjoying their selections, a smiling staff instantly recognizable and quickly offering as many samples as one may want.
Taking autumn and its pending Holidays seriously, seasonal concepts including creamy Pumpkin Brûlée that eats almost as smooth as a mousse as it does Gelato plus a pair of Breakfast Cereal concoctions that reminisce of Saturday Morning cartoons it was with long discussion about new baked goods that several small spoonfuls were slowly savored, the Vegan Yellow Pistachio as mellow as those seen overseas while a whole lot of complexity and sweetness was offered from the lengthy-titled Warm Apple Pie with Sour Cherry and Date Crust.
Deciding to focus on new things, a few personal favorites outside the Gelato simply impossible to resist, first bites of the S’mores Cupcake went a long way towards describing why it is served in a cup as opposed to traditional wrapping, the Chocolate base so moist that it almost eats like a Budino while the toasty Marshmallow topping glistens with a Chocolate Shell and Spiced Caramel sauce.
Sipping housemade Hot Chocolate with Marshmallows that roused childhood memories of Abuelita from a friend, it was here that Gelatology brought forth the newly launched Bread Pudding topped with malty Count Chocula Gelato and Whipped Cream plus a duo of Sauces, each bite rich with butter and a light hint of Cinnamon that immediately enters the discussion for Sin City’s best.
Now making her own Nougat in house, no small feat if you ask the Spaniards or Italians who’ve been doing so for centuries overseas, Desyree’s version sees the chewy base brought into sharp focus juxtaposing Pistachios and Walnuts with a light drizzle of Chocolate, the Alfajores and Sandwich Cookies as tasty as ever while the Salty Caramel Turtle Brownie offers a texture not unlike that of Fudge, the liberal use of Sea Salt visually a bit shocking, though actually quite appropriate in balancing the Cocoa-rich square’s density.
FIVE STARS:Perhaps not as “artisan” as some of the Italian houses using nothing but Organic ingredients and mixing everything by hand, Gelatology remains the standard by which all American frozen confections will be judged to this date while Chef Alberganti’s baked goods continue to evolve day-by-day.
RECOMMENDED:Bread Pudding, Salty Caramel Turtle Brownie, Nougat, Vegan Pistachio, Harvest Pumpkin Brulee, Count Chocula, Warm Apple Pie with Sour Cherry and Date Crust Gelato.
AVOID:The Orange Cheesecake and Licorice is simply not suited to my tastes.
TIP:More great things including a Cornetto al Gelato, Banana Split and several new Whoopie Pies are offered every day.Pay attention to @gelatologylv for the temptations du jour.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
https://www.facebook.com/Gelatologylv
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Consistently tempted by Tweets, Instagram photos and Facebook posts of Chef Christopher Palmeri’s most recent inspirations it was with two local business owners that early-Saturday lunch was enjoyed at Naked City Tavern, the space slowly developing its personality by way of a Buffalo Bills mural in the Game Room while the items rolling out from the kitchen continue to speak of a skilled hand and boundless imagination.
Now approaching two months in and deservedly earning accolades from nearby residents as well as writers for the Naked City Pizza classics as well as a Chef’s Menu offering everything from Truffles to Foie Gras, it was with old Black Sabbath playing that our group found seats in the raised room separated from gaming and big-screen televisions, a pair of small monitors tuned to an SEC matchup though the sound was turned off.
Greeted by a smiling Chef Palmeri after the server presented laminated menus and poured drinks, more big news on the way for a man whose hard work has reaped just rewards, it was after a brief chat that the offer was made to cook carte blanche for the table, a total of seven dishes again showing the sort of food one would never expect in a 24/7 gaming establishment.
Discussing everything from Pizza to Travel in eager anticipation of what the Chef would send out, course one featured fluffy Duck Eggs tinged in Basil beneath a dollop of Crème Fraiche and a shower of Summer Truffles, the concept as bold and nuanced as anything from the brunch menu at Bardot or Bouchon with a follow-up of Chicken n’ Waffles that could easily draw similar comparison, the crispy Chicken every bit as rich as the Duck on the Hunter’s Waffle at the former while the price rings in at less than half of Thomas Keller’s despite being just as good.
Turning attention next to handmade pastas, both the Spinach ribbons and long tubes beneath piquant stewed Goat cooked to a springy al dente amidst plenty of sauce, one would be challenged to find a Lobster Pasta of this caliber anywhere in America for less than twenty dollars, let alone one dialed up with a Wild Mushroom Ragu and a light shaving of Truffles imported by a longtime friend of the chef located just down the road.
Competing in a Pizza completion just one week later, and thus taking the opportunity to get some feedback on the structure of the crust and toppings in consideration, a White Pie offered bold house Pesto beneath mounds of melting Ricotta, the crust perhaps a bit low on Salt if one were to quibble, while the follow-up of Calamari offered no lack of flavor with a Buttermilk undertone amidst the heat of Peppers and Cream dialed up with Pappadew.
Still lighter on desserts than one would hope, the Dutch Baby gone from the Late Night and Breakfast menu though Nutella French Toast remains, Basil Gelato from Art of Flavors was beautifully paired to reduced Balsamic and fried Basil in a sort of Caprese Sundae that reminisced of the Tomato and Summer Vegetable Soup at Michelin-starred Il Ridotto in Venice.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Still lacking a bit in décor, Chef Palmeri promising that this is next on the ‘to-do’ list, Naked City Tavern continues to swing for the fences with food that defies any notion of 24/7 dining, the Chef’s Menu slowly catching on as the clientele reveals itself with even more exciting changes upcoming.
AVOID: The Pizza was an off-menu work in progress and currently not available in that form.
TIP: Those looking to catch anything other than Buffalo Bills games should be aware that Naked City Tavern currently does not offer game volume, instead going with an in-house soundtrack occasionally punctuated by TouchTunes.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
