Spending much of the afternoon rounding on Harvard Yard, a visit to the Glass Flowers at The Natural History Museum definitely worth the stop, it was at campus favorite Christina’s Homemade Ice Cream that a stop was made for an afternoon treat, nothing about the setting, service or flavors really all that great.
Located at 1255 Cambridge Street, the store next door apparently related per the signs, Christina’s Homemade Ice Cream has been in the game for over two decades and although competition has grown from the likes of JP Licks, Toscanini’s and others little has changed at the cozy scoop shop with unique flavors plus shakes but a broken coffee machine, the scoop-slinger on this particular Wednesday barely English-fluent, though eventually capable of serving up a few samples before miscalculating the total cost…twice.
Obviously catering to a mixed population, flavors from the East joining those as American as Peanut Butter Chocolate, tastes of Christina’s show a good base with obviously high percentage of Milk-fat, but moving on to the flavors themselves the general skew is one towards unbridled sweetness, even the Red Bean version taking more like a “Boston Baked Bean” candy rather than the traditional Japanese paste.
In the end taking the ideas for what they are worth, forgetting nuance that left carrot cake more like cream cheese frosting than the spices normally entailed, four flavors in three bowls were eventually selected at a total of just under $15, the Butter Almond and Kahlua admittedly spot-on representations of their ingredients while the Burnt Sugar was decent, though failing to live up to the high standard set by their Cambridge competitor.
Spaghetti Carbonara con Riccio di Mare – Imported Spaghetti, Pancetta, Sea Urchin, Pepper, Parmesan
Gemelli – Extruded Pasta, Lobster Brown Butter Sauce, Morels
Margherita Pizza –Tomato, Basil, Mozzarella, Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Part two of an Oringer and Bissonnette afternoon, the tiny Italian Enoteca focused on Charcuterie, Pastas and Pizza opened in 2010, Coppa continued to show the two Chef’s skills as relates to creating a small plates experience worth going out of one’s way for.
Again located in the South End, parking during the afternoon a touch annoying as most roads are reserved for residents only throughout the day, Coppa goes about Italian cuisine in a vein similar to the way Toro approaches Spanish Tapas and with several ‘half-portions’ available at prices that are admittedly precious considering portions there is still no doubt of ingredient quality or craftsmanship as each plate is presented as it is readied with a great deal of finesses and attention to detail.
Offering bread similar to that at Toro, again forgettable although here served with good Olive Oil and well utilized in sopping up sauces, Coppa’s menu is divided into familiar sections and opting for five plates including two half-pastas and a pizza the amount of food was perfect for a duo at a price of just about $90 all-inclusive.
Beginning with three Arancini, the riceballs undersized at $9 for three without much ‘spice’ to the sauce, roasted carrot ‘hummus’ with salsa verde was an equally paltry portion considering the cost of $12 when compared to similar vegetable-based ideas at Yvonne’s, Oleana or Sarma, though the flavor was on-point with a smoky undertone and green salsa competing for top billing with housemade cocktail onions lending a vibrant pop.
Progressing to two pastas, both making up for their size with richness, quality and luxury ingredients, it would be hard to fault either the imported Spaghetti with Pancetta, Uni and oodles of Black Pepper or the handmade Gemelli with Lobster, Morels and Brown Butter as each was cooked to perfect texture as well as temperature with sauce that makes the aforementioned bread not just useful, but necessary.
Unfortunately not dining with a group large enough to justify two pies, the seasonal Softshell Crab and Bone Marrow Pizzas both well regarded, a simple Margherita showed the results of a team dedicated to its craft as the leavened crust presented a robust shell overlying wispy air pockets, the mozzarella not quite Bufala quality though the quality of crushed tomatoes and fresh basil do an admirable job in carrying the bulk of the taste.
Pan Con Tomate – Toasted Bread with Garlic, Tomato, Spanish Olive Oil, Sea Salt
Datiles Con Jamon – Medjool Dates filled with Marcona Almonds and Valdeon Blue Cheese, wrapped in Jamon Serrano
Jamon Blanco – Le Quercia Lardo, Marinated Jonah Crab, Black Garlic, Crispy Shallots and Avocado on Toast
Zanahorias – Berbere Spiced Carrots with Garlic, Yogurt and Mint
Maiz Asado Con Alioli Y Queso Cotija – Grilled Corn with Alioli, Lime, Espelette Pepper and Aged Cheese
Croquettas de Bacalao – Salt Cod Fritters with Tempura Onion Rings and Alioli
Uni Bocadillo – Pressed Uni Sandwich with Miso Butter and Pickled Mustard Seeds
Churros – Fried Donuts with Cinnamon, Sugar and Chocolate Sauce
A staple of Boston’s dining scene since opening in the South End, Ken Oringer and Jamie Bissonnette’s Toro has perhaps lost a bit of novelty as the Spanish Tapas style has been imported and utilized by several chefs in countless cities, but with heavily wooded space still buzzing for both lunch and dinner there is little doubt that the team is continuing to do something right in order to remain relevant.
Recently taking the brand to New York, a bold move for a duo that has become one of Boston’s most beloved restaurateurs, Toro is more traditional than many of the modern looks at Tapas or ‘small-plates,’ and avoiding the prices and trickery of Jose Andres thinkfoodgroup the experience offered is thought provoking as a comparison to the restaurants found throughout Spain offering similar food, the vast majority of items more pricy than those in Europe but executed at least as precisely.
Planned as part of another extensive eating day, a second lunch at Coppa to follow, the ordering process at Toro was centered on personal favorites as well as a few of the restaurant’s most well known items, the bread basket largely just filler while the Pan Con Tomate was a far more inspired investment as toast shined beneath a light brush of garlic, tomato and sea salt.
Resting assured that the cured meats would be delicious, the Chef’s having made their name by not only importing but making top notch Charcuterie of their own, Dates wrapped in Jamon Serrano were perhaps the best version experienced in part due to the funky Valdeon, a dish called Jamon Blanco proving to be just about the most delicious “avocado toast” imaginable as Jonag Crab joined black garlic under a veil of silky Lardo.
Taking a vegetal turn before ending turning to two umami-laden looks at Sealife, Vegetarians as well as Omnivores would be well advised to order Zanahorias as well as the inspired Street Corn, the former doing a beautiful job highlighting both the sweet and earthy aspects of Carrots while the Brandade Croquettas are creamy and explosive with flavor, a crispy Sea Urchin Sandwich flooding the palate with all the expected richness tinged in Miso and Mustard Seeds.
A bit too limited for my liking for dessert, freshly fried churros not even listed on the menu but available on request, suffice it to say that these are not the greasy donuts offered outside the Hollywood Bowl for $1 after a concert, the exteriors fried golden with the center almost weightless as Cinnamon and Sugar are liberally applied with the option left to the diner as to whether or not to dip in molten Dark Chocolate.
Not as wowed as many by Flour Bakery + Café, a 2011 visit showing little more than the Almond Croissant to be particularly memorable, it was with high hopes based on a recent James Beard Award that a return visit was made to the Washington Street location on Wednesday morning, the place still quite popular though little save for a few seasonal specials has changed.
Now sporting several locations around Boston, Joanne Chang’s cookbook also quite well received, Flour Bakery + Café features a layout will not prove unfamiliar to those who’ve visited places like Panera, and although there is no doubt the ingredients used in Flour’s baked goods and sandwiches are better than a place just now trying to go “clean” with its image the fact remains that considering the pricepoint it still does not perform on par with the Bouchons of the world, nor many local bakeries in both larger and smaller cities.
A high volume space to be sure, both literally and figuratively as businessmen bustle in and out as noise generated by music, kitchen and coffee brewing all clash overhead, it was with Cold Brew in hand that several minutes were spent waiting for others to add milk or creamer at a cramped station before four boxed items were taken to a table, the fifth requested to be warmed and taking nearly fifteen minutes to do so.
Having stuck mostly to laminated pastry the first time, but this time hoping to see improvement by way of some classic American treats, suffice it to say that Flour Bakery + Café’s Kouign Amann fails to meet high standards set by bakeries such as San Francisco’s b. Patisserie while the Blueberry Muffin also comes up short by focusing on typical grocery produce instead of bringing in the smaller, more concentrated fruits readily found just a few hours north in Maine.
Not a total loss, the Carrot Cake exceedingly moist with nuts, raisins and light citrus all accounted for in the tan Spice Cake, Boston Cream Pie was as delicious as it was novel, yet as a result of some serious miscalculations from the kitchen the bottom was still half-frozen, the Bread Pudding likewise still cold at its center making one wonder just how bad it may have been were it not for the requested trip to the warming oven.
Fancy – Two Fried Eggs, Bacon, Cheddar Cheese, Avocado, Red Onions, House Mayo on Toasted Iggy’s Multigrain
Goldmine – Wild Clover Honey, Whipped Ricotta, Crispy Pancetta and a Soft Egg on Griddled Iggy’s Brioche
Banana OG – Bourbon and Rum Caramelized Bananas with Nuttella and Bacon on Buttered Griddled Iggy’s Brioche
Missed on past trips to Beantown due to a simple lack of time or the tiny corner store being on ‘break,’ it was finally on July 6th that a stop was made at Mike & Patty’s, the rumors of long waits attempted to be circumvented by an early weekday arrival, though the small kitchen still saw no less than a half-dozen waiting as they carefully assembled sandwiches that really are quite great.
Opened since just 2008, though the space seems much older with fame stretching far and wide, pulling up to 12 Church Street may at first seem completely underwhelming, yet entry into the cozy 3-4 seater quickly gives an idea as to what has moved the neighborhood spot to nationwide recognition, the menu of classic flavors and local ingredients clearly a Chef’s passion with a keen eye on balance.
Bringing in bread from Iggy’s, Mike & Patty’s itself barely big enough for the griddle and three employees, let alone an oven, it was with $31.00 exchanged for three sandwiches plus tax and tip that the small restaurant was exited, allowing more patrons to pour in, the aluminum foil doing an admirable job of retaining heat though not particularly ideal for pictures of the goods when unwrapped.
Unintentionally becoming ‘known’ for a Sandwich simply known as “Fancy,” the classic Bacon, Egg and Cheese gussied up with smashed Avocado and Mayo on Multigrain, those looking for a sweet breakfast are in luck because although Mike & Patty’s does not offer Pancakes, French Toast or Waffles they do make the Goldmine and Banana OG, the former taking soft Ricotta and placing it on Brioche with briny Pork and Honey while the latter upgrades the idea of an “Elvis” by way of Boozy caramelized Bananas and Nutella with crisp Bacon.
Petit Fours – Chocolate Caramel, Strawberry Pate de Fruit, Apricot Caramel
The restaurant that put Portland on the culinary map for many, originally opened in the 80s and still a destination despite being sold to new ownership in 2012, Hugo’s Restaurant at 88 Middle Street was the final stop on a Must Visit American “Bucket List” created in 2010, the group having since expanded to include The Honey Paw and Eventide Oyster Co. which had been visited on consecutive days before.
Described as “Embracing tradition and pursuing innovation,” the interior featuring leather, rich woods and accents that embody Maine’s rugged coast, Hugo’s currently offers three tasting menus priced at $90 for five courses, a group of three capable of enjoying everything the restaurant offers for just under $350 all-inclusive with items coming from sections labeled “Foraged & Farmed,” “From the Sea,” and “Forest & Field.”
Toqued by Andrew Taylor, a veritable army of Chefs at their posts working in relative silence as light music plays overhead, service at Hugo’s strikes the rare balance of professional yet personable with gifts from the kitchen plus one extra dessert turning into a 22 plate degustation of items described as minimally or in-depth as individual tables deem appropriate.
Passing on wine and spirits, though the beverage menu and sommelier are well regarded, it was with an “Everything Bagel” that the evening got started, the smoky topnotes and umami fully opening the palate to opening courses that saw Asian style Pork presented alongside charred Broccolini and Halibut crudo plus fluffy Garlic Biscuits that were fortunately served only once as any more would have made “filling up on bread” more than just a minor problem.
Offering more pork for course two, this tamale quite different from the norm with fresh cheese and cabbage, additional plates included tender Octopus meant to be eaten in Lettuce cups with black beans and pickled Ramps, a gift from the kitchen offered in the form of crisp Sweetbread nuggets while the Lebanese bread salad was mezze at its highest level with crumbled Cheese, Flatbread and broad leaves of Lettuce dancing atop what was essentially emulsified Olives whipped to froth.
A truly diverse menu, the ability to select ones’ five courses from anywhere on the menu allowing for almost unlimited combinations of the plates, three plates presented mid-service globetrotted from tender Rabbit Sausage, Loin and Leg confit in a salad of strawberries and tender grains peaked by vinegar while Tuna found surprising flavor from Kumquates and Smoke, the meaty Oyster Mushroom perhaps the meal’s most surprising star with a gooey Gnocchi and fresh Peas.
Again offering a treat simply called “breakfast” the custard of Eggs, Bacon and Red Onion delicious with Sourdough and a smear of cultured Butter, savories wrapped in Venison Ragu over hand-cutTagliatelle with Rhubarb and Quinoa showing the Chef’s passion for textures, the Wild Sockeye Salmon mild while the seaweed “Soil” and Togarashi were a bit too briny for some at the table, though the XO Tofu was another undeniable Asian-inspired hit.
Offering four desserts, the decision to add one extra an easy choice, those looking for creativity with complex flavors will be happy to see items such as a Matcha Profiterole, Rye Ice Cream, Arugula Cake, and Toasted Chamomile Meringue dialing up flavors like Strawberry and Chocolate, the “cheese offering” of a Monte Cristo with crispy Pork and Wild Bay Ice Cream best reserved for more adventurous diners while Rhubarb’s sourness was focused on rather than muted by way of Apricot, Orange and Candied Almond bits.
The hand slab – Steve’s original tomato, mozzarella and provolone Sicilian pie, 1lb hand-slab
Monstri Meatball – 2 lb. ‘monster’ beer braised beef, pork sausage and peperoncini meatball sandwich with slab gravy and melted cheeses on a toasted luna loaf
The goumad – house napoleon pastry strip with pistachio, grappa and arancello crema bavarese, dark chocolate and orange white chocolate marzipan drizzles, pistachios
Describing its concept as Sicilian Street Food, the location inside a converted Portland Public Market providing a large space with a fully stocked bar and open kitchen to make some equally sizable food, Slab is one of those places where the price seems almost *too* good to be possible, though in reality the bargains actually prove to be true.
Known as a sort of community gathering place, music on the patio and a menu that almost necessitates sharing part of the appeal, it was at an off hour that our party arrived at Slab to find a few folks sitting in front of a television watching Euro2016, the service prompt and courteous with items arriving from the kitchen just 15 minutes after placing an order.
Famed for their signature ‘slab,’ a thick rectangle of Pie with each slice weighing in at a pound of flour, water, cheese and sauce, additional styles are offered with a variety of seasonal inspirations and with each bite offering a crisp edge with a supple crumb beneath vibrant tomatoes and smooth mozzarella the 32oz Monstri Meatball may even be better as the orbs of three meats are sliced and smashed with great flavor inside toasted bread that is accurately described as a “loaf.”
Frequent to update their menu, desserts having just changed that week, it is perhaps fortuitous that sweets do not trend quite as large as savories as there would have likely been no room for dinner otherwise, The Goumad a roughly constructed and boozed-up Napoleon with bitter Grappa and Dark Chocolate offset by Citrus, Marzipan and Pistachios.
“THE ORIGINAL” DUCKFAT MILKSHAKE – vanilla gelato with crème anglaise & fresh Tahitian vanilla bean
CHERRY PHOSPHATE
WILD MAINE BLUEBERRY MILKSHAKE
DUCK FAT FRIED & CITRUS SCENTED DONUTS – Sprinkled with cinnamon sugar, served with duck fat caramel dipping sauce
A European-style Sandwich Shop on Middle Street, Duckfat is the brainchild of Chef Rob Evans and partner Nancy Pugh, the duo’s focus on local sourcing and artisan creations sustaining the restaurant since 2005 and still making it the only place to rival Eventide Oyster Co. for the length of its queue.
Open at 11am seven days a week, the line already three parties deep at 10:55, it was with friendly greetings from a male host and then a female server, a few daily specials not enough to dissuade an order of six Duckfat classics that had been pre-selected from the online menu.
Seated communally at a table with two others, the wait-list and paging system in place twenty minutes after the restaurant opened its door, it was not long after placing orders that items began to arrive from the kitchen, both shakes thick and rich with the Wild Maine Blueberries actually faring better than the signature which was more expensive, the extra served in a classic silver sidecar with the creamy concoction slow to melt.
Informing the server that everything could be served as it was readied by the kitchen, hand-cut Fries fried in Duck Fat far more impressive than any seen in Belgium though the Curds were not as fresh or squeaky as those offered in Canada or Wisconsin, fried Donuts proved very impressive by way of the crispy exterior and wispy warm center, the caramel thick and smooth with just enough salinity to balance the Cinnamon Sugar.
Rounding out the meal with Sandwiches, the confit Canard rich with all the expected sapor beneath fermented cabbage and vibrant Mayo, those looking for an authentic Cuban Sandwich this far North may be disappointed, but despite a bit of retooling Duckfat’s Slow Roasted Pulled Pork shines amidst housemade pickles lightly tinged in Mustard plus melted Swiss and Garlic.
Having rounded on a good number of “the best” doughnut shops in America, depending on whose list you trust, a stop at Portland’s famous “The Holy Donut” waited for the last day in Maine, a 9am arrival finding freshly baked batches joining more than a dozen flavors already populating store shelves.
Founded on a vision of something slightly healthier than typical fried dough, the idea to use locally grown potatoes in every hand-cut batch requiring a bit of trial error, The Holy Donut went brick and mortar in 2012 and although the prices trend higher than most chain varieties, so too do the ingredients and attention to details.
Partnering with several local sources for potatoes, eggs, butter and additions to the glaze, those visiting The Holy Donut should be prepared to make tough decisions as to which of the daily options sounds most appealing, but focusing on a mix of classics and novel ideas a half-dozen +1 proves a good way to get an idea of the store’s offerings, first bites of a gooey Bacon + Cheese pocket from a warming unit not dissimilar to Papas Rellenas in terms of texture while the flavor was a significant upgrade on the traditional breakfast sandwich.
Obviously a place where sweeter things are the order of priority, though those expecting the sugar smack of Dunkin or Krispy Kreme may be disappointed, tastes of six rings began with a version studded in Maine Blueberries with liquids used in the bright blue topping, the exterior lightly crisp while insides melted on the tongue almost without chewing.
Not embraced by others in the party, comments about the flavors all coming across as ‘greasy’ perhaps valid, though at worst it may be comparable to Belgian style French Fries, Strawberry Lemonade was noted to be the most widely enjoyed by one due to the ample amounts of citrus while Sweet Potato topped with Ginger tasted a lot like “Thanksgiving” to another, the Chocolate circle a bit more controversial as the sea salt seemed to exacerbate the flavor of the oil while Coffee Brandy and Maple were each well flavored and thoroughly enjoyed all by myself.
Filling a former Gas Station with an in in-house bakery and Coffee roasting program, Tandem Coffee Roasters is one of many options for Caffeine in Portland, but unlike places such as Bard the theme here can best be described as breezy and non-judgmental, a true sense of community prevailing with old friends chatting and communal tables offering an opportunity for others to meet.
Not fully setting aside a Hipster aesthetic, the soundtrack, man-bunned baristas and racks with bespoke bikes outside setting the scene, those entering Tandem are likely to receive warm welcome from counterside servers, the baked goods glistening behind glass changing not just daily, but *throughout* the day.
Smartly offering classic treats tinged with innovation, the iced coffee not quite on par with some as the finish comes across slightly sour, Tandem’s “Loaded Biscuit” is a favorite of locals for good reason as the fluffy buttermilk comes laden with a thick smear of good butter and housemade seasonal preserves, the strawberries reaching high standards while Blackberries tucked into a moist scone of Hazelnuts and Rosemary was everything The Standard Baking Co.’s Blueberry version was not, and well worth getting up early for.
Never really going *too* sweet, the Pistachio cake almost like a Financier with the soft yet toothsome crumb, Banana Bread reached upward by way of black sesame that added an atypical yet enjoyable bit of Umami, the Sea Salted Cookie well made around morsels of dark Chocolate while the Cardamom could have been dialed back slightly in an otherwise very well constructed Sticky Bun.
Summer Peach Souffle, Fire Roasted Peaches, Peach Ice Cream, Streusel
Mignardises – Chocolate Cigar, Apricot Pate de Fruit, Mango Marshmallow, Coffee Caramel, Walnut and Pecan Pie
Take Home Cookie Mix
A Relais & Chateaux property in Kennebunkport for several years, The White Barn Inn was chosen for Independence Day dinner as an excuse to get away from downtown festivities, the opportunity to fete two missed birthdays also an impetus to do the sort of formal dining less-and-less commonly seen in America these days.
Recently toqued by Derek Bissonnette, his tenure in the kitchen beginning when longtime Chef Jonathan Cartwright announced his departure in June of 2015, The White Barn Inn is a storied AAA Five Diamond and Forbes 5-Star recipient with attached Resort and Spa plus a more casual bistro space, but for those looking for a truly refined experience a space in The Restaurant is the a worthwhile destination, the service all Sir, Ma’am, Please and Thank You while the environment is romantic without being precious, a talented Piano man playing quietly throughout dinner service.
Well priced and diverse in manners of dining, a four-course prix-fixe seemingly the most popular though a tasting menu is offered, those familiar with The Inn at Little Washington or Blackberry Farm will instantly recognize the sort of experience offered at Maine’s most awarded restaurant and opting to order three different prix-fixe menus a substantial amount of food was able to be tasted, most of it quite excellent.
Taking an expected local-seasonal approach to the offerings, even the Foie Gras brought from nearby Quebec, the evening at The White Barn Inn began with craft cocktails and Iced Tea plus Ice Water, the selection of breads unfortunately disappointing as all but the focaccia was dry and lifeless, a real shame as the butter was brought from a local farmhouse and largely went to waste.
Not the sort of place to flood the table with canapes, a lone amuse of Beef Tartare on a crisp with Capers and Herbs tasty, if not particularly memorable, it was with the first course that Chef Bissonnette really began to show off his skillset, the trio running a gamut of flavors ranging from the Thai-inspired Lobster Spring Roll to Summer Strawberry and Tomato Gazpacho with Balsamic Ice Cream perched on a crispy diving board while the aforementioned Duck Liver delivered fully by way of a seared steak ‘en croute’ alongside a clever torchon wrapped in Vanilla and Citrus with nuance added by Fennel Seed powder.
Dubbing course two an “intermezzo” the options ranging from light sorbet to soup, suffice it to say that the descriptor undersells the quality as well as the portion of the items offered, Compressed Watermelon with Goat Cheese and Almond Croquant actually a roll of fruit stuffed with chevre that danced with aged balsamic while the Chilled Pea Soup with Peekytoe Crab and boozed-up Lobster Bisque served like a cappuccino were as bold far more sizable and rich than one might have expected, the former truly impressive and perfectly in tune with the season.
At this point having seen earlier diners complete their meals and depart for celebration on the beach, main courses continued to be both well presented and big in portion, the vegetarian Lasagna shining as grilled Halloumi mirrored textures of the crispy baked top of more traditional presentations while Guinea Hen offered both a roulade of breast as well as a salt-crusted leg liberated tableside, the fresh pasta beneath a poached lobster was essentially offered as a means to sop up the Ginger-infused Cognac Butter Sauce.
Enjoying a single plate of Cheese from a mostly New England based cart before dessert, a Red, White and Blue Cake Pop in smooth Mascarpone patriotically cleansing the palate, the pastry kitchen made up for the bread by way of a puffy Souffle crowned in Peaches alongside the Peanut Butter and Banana Tart and Honey-kissed Cheesecake with basenotes of T ea playing well off citrus, fruit and nuts.
Arguably Portland’s busiest restaurant, a line usually present at the 11am opening with a wait list ranging 15-60 minutes frequently stretching the next dozen hours, Eventide Oyster Co. is owned by the same team behind Hugo’s Restaurant and The Honey Paw, and although originally formed as a more casual spot or place to stop for cocktails and oysters before dinner next door there is no doubt the little-sister has grown up nicely, evidence of a role-reversal even playing out on Tuesday when diners entered Hugo’s in wait of a table next door.
Fast paced and frenetic, several varieties of briny bivalves being shucked rapidly for diners inside, outdoors, at communal tables or the bar, Eventide’s menu additionally runs the gamut of upscale Seafood selections and a few land-based animals, the sliders and sandwiches particularly popular with a few “staples” and others that depend on whatever is being brought fresh to shore.
Spending a 55-minute wait wandering the city, Coffee at Bard quickly passing the time, return to Eventide was requested by way of a cellphone paging system and ironically sat at a table with a duo from Ohio the conversation was almost instantaneous, the server taking orders from both parties with food quickly expedited from a kitchen that moves at an almost unparalleled speed.
Much friendlier than the environment at The Honey Paw, a soundtrack spinning Dylan during much of the meal, course one featured three ‘buns’ with fresh-picked Peekytoe composed as Crab Salad proving exceedingly light with strongly sweet notes while the Buttermilk Chicken and Oyster were each fried crisp to play elegantly off of their respective pickled fruits or vegetables and tangy sauce.
Celebrated for novel takes on New England Classics, course two appropriately presented two of Eventide Oyster Co.’s most famous items, and although the chowder likely will not convert traditionalists the medium-thin potage is undeniably delicious with plenty of seafood accentuated by caramelized onions, the infamous Lobster Roll an even more impressive three-bites that actually may be good enough to warrant both the wait and steep price-per-bite cost.
Rarely one to forgo desserts, the menu at Eventide riffing playful in parts while Chocolate Whoopie Pies and a Slice of the day are also offered, suffice it to say that the suggestion to “just get it” for a $6 Ice Cream Sandwich should be heeded while the Coconut Choco-Taco takes frozen novelties to new heights with a clever shell of Buckwheat and Almonds studding the top.
A brief stop for a pick-me-up, baked goods long gone by noon, Bard Coffee has been called Portland’s best place for an afternoon caffeine boost and although several styles including Pour-over, Espresso, Latte and Cappuccino are offered it is the more novel items that seem to draw the most attention, amongs them several chilled options including the nitrogen-infused and heady coldbrew.
Not really much to look at, the floor-to-ceiling windows up front gazing out into the street while interior is sparsely decorated with whole beans and brewing paraphernalia, Bard features the sort of soundtrack and service familiar from Intelligentsia, Ritual or Stumptown and although no one really seems to smile much at the counter, almost all patrons looked more than satisfied while chatting with their friends, reading, or surfing the Web.
Having experience Nitro Coffee several times in the past, the mouthfeel not unlike beer with a deep complexity of flavors enhanced by tiny bubbles, Bard’s Nitro comes at a typical price of approximately $4 for 12oz and although the foam is not as robust as some of the alternatives there is no doubt these folks know what they are doing in terms of roasting, the caffeine jolt rather substantial while medium roasting highlights the bean’s fruit and caramel notes.
Undoubtedly one of Portland’s most well-known entities, eleven locations now found around town or as far as Boston to the South, it was to the original Otto that the GPS was pointed after a quick jaunt to Booth Bay Harbor, the ‘too cool’ service rivaling The Honey Paw for hipster indifference while the Pies themselves are thankfully executed with a far greater degree of passion.
Surprisingly only open since 2009, the Congress Street slice-shop since expanding to one of the full-service restaurants just two doors down, Otto suggests that “Pizza is simple food. But it doesn’t have to be ordinary,” and with this idea in mind the menu spins both classic and non-traditional, favorites such as “the Masher” featuring Mashed Potatoes, Bacon and Scallions without sauce or cheese added while a Pasta-topped pie receives substantial praise for good reason as the lightly baked Tortellini burst with gooey richness amidst little more than hand crushed tomatoes and herbs.
Dining at an off-hour on Independence Day, the soundtrack featuring appropriate American Standard tunes, it was with only two other tables filled during the course of a 60-minute visit that our party of three partook in the ideas of two local friends, a starter of Meatballs a bit meager considering the cost while the pizzas proved a far more worthwhile investment as we focused on the fan-favorites listed above.
Not precisely Neapolitan despite the wood oven, but also not quite as thick as most pies served in the central states, Otto’s pizzas are distinctly their own in terms of the crunchy crust structure than manages to be light without substantial leavening, the light blister only enough to accentuate the ingredients without leaving any sort of charred taste that lingers in the mouth.
Widely known thanks to accolades both printed and televised, The Standard Baking Company in Portland was chosen for snacks en route to Booth Bay Harbor on Independence Day 2016, the results at times showing evidence of why the space is so well regarded while several items were unfortunately no better than average.
Owned by a group behind several local restaurants, the sizable shop apparently quite popular with the downtown crowd and tourists staying at hotels nearby, The Standard Baking Company suggests a “family owned bakery offering a diverse array of daily breads and sweets, plus breakfast pastries” and true to their word all of the above were indeed present at the time of a 9am arrival, though the prices seemed a bit discordant to other nearby places when accounting for both the portions and the quality.
Eventually selecting eight items, all of them sweet as though the loaves all looked quite good, it was almost immediately on exit that the warm Morning Bun was tasted, the yeasty curl decent but softer than would be expected while the caramel was sparsely applied in a lopsided fashion.
Saving the rest for later, a few Lobster Shortbreads eaten on the road more clever in their shape than they were rich in butter or flavor, a pair of cookies proved equally lackluster with both the rim and center equally crisp without much flavor beyond the chocolate chips or raisins, a far better concept presented by the chocolate chip studded financier that made good use of the toothsome almond flour.
Far less impressive than Two Fat Cats when it comes to scones, the one here mostly dry with Blueberries doing the bulk of the work in terms of making the hefty triangle edible, it seems The Standard Baking Company is far better represented when riffing on French classics, the Rhubarb Crumb Tart surprisingly letting sour notes shine without much added sugar while the Apricot and Almond Galette proved as noteworthy as the Financier by way of the complexity of the fruit puree juxtaposing its rich texture.
Not only surviving, but thriving since rebranding from Bintliff’s, Bayside American Café is one of those “local’s only” places that has slowly gained popularity amongst visitors, the cozy two-story space telling a story of its both its owners and the region by way of not only the cuisine and clientele, but also by the overall look of the restaurant itself.
Originally founded in 1990, but under new ownership since 2003 and renamed one year ago, Bayside American Café is the sort of place likely to generate crowds regardless of time or day of the week, but assuring seating by arriving just moments after the 7am opening on Independence day seating was requested in the downstairs area where people soon gathered in waiting, the self-fill Coffee station one perk, as was the ability to watch a bustling café kitchen.
Self-appointing itself Portland’s Best Brunch, the all-day menu with a few specials offering a wide variety of savories and sweets, it was after some deliberating that a three-item order was selected, the restaurant soon full with waits exceeding thirty minutes by the time the server arrived with the a trio of sizable plates.
Eschewing specials in favor of signatures, many of Bayside’s most famous dishes carried over from the restaurant’s earliest days, suffice it to say that those ordering ‘topped’ pancakes or French Toast need not worry about adding Pure Maple Syrup as there is no lack of sweetness offered in either the swirled Cinnamon Pancakes with Cream Cheese Icing or the eggy Brioche dredged in custard with lemon curd and Wild Maine Blueberries, the Lobster Benedict no less smothered in a thick Hollandaise that delicately walked a tightrope of light citrus and substantial richness without being *too* thick.
Stop one in a trio of connected restaurants that include Eventide Oyster Company and Hugo’s Restaurant, Sunday dinner took place at The Honey Paw, and although the rest of the restaurant’s group proved well deserving of the worldwide recognition that has helped make Portland a culinary destination their newest spot needs a whole lot of work before anyone will mistake it as on that same level.
No doubt a trendy spot, the Sunday Ramen and F-bomb laden Hip-Hop records just scratching the surface of issues that include uncomfortable communal seating, exceedingly warm temperatures thanks to windows facing the setting sun and servers that mumble their way through the evening as though they do not wish to be there, The Honey Paw takes an almost David Chang-esque approach to making diners feel as though their money is the only thing that matters, or at least that it is more important than any sort of creature comforts.
Again referencing Chang by suggesting a menu of upscale Asian-inspired share-plates, the diversity actually quite impressive with portions that trend large for their price, it was after settling best as possible into a windowside strip of blonde wood and backless barstools that the meal got started, a starter of delicate Indian Fry-Bread arriving warm with sliced peppers and briny butter with Zucchini Fritters hot on its heels with a smooth core of tofu that paired well to creamy citrus aioli.
Literally sharing its kitchen with Eventide, the latter well-known for a lobster roll that some call the State’s best, it seemed safe to assume crustaceans would be a well-advised addition to the evening, the Lobster Tartine presented something like Avocado toast with a crisp base topped in chunks of Lobster as well as Scallop Mousse amidst vegetable textures, the Wontons in Dashi well complimented by tender mushrooms and light chili oil while Wok Fried Noodles with Roast Pork and Peekytoe Crab meat came across far too salty and also a bit oily.
Happy to see Congee on the menu, The Honey Paw’s version using buttery grits, a poached egg, pork and scallops the closest competitor to Jordan Kahn’s Uni Porridge at Red Medicine tasted to date, the kitchen continued to shine by way of a plate of double-fried Korean Spiced Chicken that comes in half or full portions with sides including fermented vegetables and potato salad, plus some truly exemplary coconut-butter cornbread.
Limiting desserts to a few Sundaes plus a daily wedge of Cake those looking for a sweet sendoff will be happy to know that regardless of which is chosen the result is far more impressive than menu suggestions might suggest, the Strawberry Cake with tea-infused buttercream and blueberry jam as light as angel food and perfect for summer while the Caramelized Honey Soft Serve drizzled in Dark Chocolate with crunchy Honeycomb will almost make the temperature, volume and overall discomfort worth it.
Said by some to be the hippest spot in the city, everything from signage and upscale comfort food menu to the Motown Soundtrack and reclaimed wood indicating the rumors to be true, it was only after a 70-minute wait that seats were offered at walk-in only Central Provisions, the service generally more pleasant than the dismissive sort offered at similar spots in larger cities while the cuisine was pretty much exemplary across the board.
No doubt a popular spot for Millennials, our table bringing the average age up by a couple years simply by default of all being born before the Nirvana released Bleach, it was with menus in hand that an ordering strategy was pondered, the typical description of a “small plates concept” suggesting that 2-3 items per person were recommended with everything to be sent out “as it was made by the kitchen.”
Opting to taste a cocktail in addition to water poured in glasses that most can easily swallow in one gulp, prices at Central Provisions trend far lower than one might expect given portion sizes as well as the ingredients included, the meal starting off with Bread and Butter that is worth paying for as the housemade sourdough shines beneath a spread of whipped eggs mixed with green garlic and lemon.
True to their word regarding service, sweets and savories arriving temperature appropriate with no particular pattern, Mini Doughnuts dusted in powdered sugar proved to be the meal’s weakest selection while the housemade Burrata shined beneath a sweet drizzle of honey and apricots with bitter greens and pork cracklins added as a well thought out foil.
Happy to see Hush Puppies and Cod Croquettes on the menu, both lightly fried and full of flavor with their respective sauces or butters, a big surprise was presented by a cold soup that tasted like an upscale Strawberry Julius with Mascarpone and Pomagranate contributing to the balance.
Again falling short in sweets, the Cinnamon Roll just fine, but nothing more, two more showstoppers arrived in the meal’s waning moments, the Foie Gras parfait eating like a pot de crème infused with the unmistakable sapor of liver while the Cornbread with an egg baked inside was by itself a destination sort of dish with bits of bacon adding sharp pockets of salinity to the supple crumb sitting in cast-iron with a rim of caramelized cheese.
Located down the way from Central Provisions, the walk-in only favorite generating a 75-minute wait for Sunday Brunch, Gorgeous Gelato proved an admirable stop for a frozen snack on Sunday afternoon as temperatures approached the 90°F, small batches of housemade gelato being turned out fresh as our party arrived with Chefs working intently within a kitchen visible through doors made of glass.
Hanging clever signage of inspired quotes to compliment several cases of gelato, cakes, tarts and frozen confections, Gorgeous Gelato promotes using old-world Italian techniques to craft each of its frozen concoctions and with no flavor more than a few days old at the time of service there is little chance for error no matter which is selected.
Unlimited in terms of samples, the two young men behind the counter working well together as one slings scoops while the other works coffee and cash register, it was after tastes of several traditional flavors including an exceedingly natural Pistachio that two small bowls and a “gelato cannoli” were paid for, the total of $12 a touch pricy but well justified by the craftsmanship entailed.
Going for the flavors of Hazelnut and Salty Caramel in bowl one, the former a spot on representation of the nut without trending into the more commonly seen realm of “Nutella,” cup two dialed up the creativity with the eponymous flavor featuring ribbons of caramel and chocolate amidst the sweet cream base while the “oreo” tasted identical to the cookie’s wafers without trending overly sweet as though it entirely lacked the cream filling.
More than a bit intrigued by the lemon tart and whoopie pies, but even moreso by crispy shells packed with flavors not offered in the case, final tastes of Gorgeous Gelato came by way of smooth ricotta and figs rolled inside thicker-than-typical cannolis, the texture not exactly what one might expect from experiences with the traditional version but all-in-all just as pleasing with the blended cheese and base providing a delicate backdrop for chopped figs whose texture remained surprisingly soft despite the freezing.
Lemon Zucchini Bread Whoopie Pie with Blueberry Cream
Red Velvet Cupcake with Mixed Berry Cream
Blueberry Oat Scone with Lemon Cream
Said by some to be the best bakery in Portland, if not all of Maine, Two Fat Cats has been pleasing locals with old-world baking techniques ever since opening the doors in 2005, the passion of four friends exemplified in a well-culled daily variety of pies, cookies, whoopies, tarts and cakes.
Located at 47 India Street, a fortuitous space near to the water, tourist corridor and most of the city’s best dining spots, Two Fat Cats beckons would-be patrons at a distance with the smells of yeast, flour as well as spices and for those fortunate to stop in and descend the staircase the temptations prove substantial whether the interest is sweet or savory, some items stored behind the counter while others rest in a chilled case or cooling on a wooden bakers rack.
Friendly in terms of service, a sort of co-op feel embraced by staff and patrons who all seem to understand the bakery’s place in the community at large, early arrival is advised for those hoping to snag hand pies, daily slices or individual servings sizes, the seasonality of the menu on this day offering late-season Rhubarb mixed with strawberries in the former while the ‘signature’ black and blue omits any extra sugar or filling in favor of all-natural berries cooked just past bursting inside a flaky all-butter pastry.
Unfortunately faring poorly by way of a cupcake, the light cream topping pleasant while the red velvet base was unfortunately quite dry, better bites were found amidst two styles of Maine-favorite Whoopie Pie, the Chocolate version more-or-less expected with a good cake-to-filling ratio while the combination of Lemon and Blueberries was downright delicious whether presented by way of the sandwich cookie or buttery scone loaded with toothsome rolled oats.
