Endo Edibles

December 19, 2015
6:31 PM
by: Uhockey

Due Forni [2,] Las Vegas, NV

Due Forni

Sartarelli Classico 2014

Chef’s Platter – 24-Month Parmesan, Smoked Blue Cheese, Truffle Tremor, Prosciutto, Wild Boar Sausage, Olives, Tapenade, Bread

Housemade Blood Sausage – Piquillo Pepper Puree, Calabrian Pepper, Basil, Garlic, Onion

Wadleith Chardonnay 2013

Carpaccio – Thin Sliced Prime Beef, Arugula, Pine Nuts, Parmesan, Cremini Mushrooms, Truffle Vinaigrette

Spinach Salad – Duck Breast, Apples, Warm Dijon Vinaigrette, Pecans

Sonoma Coma Pinot Noir 2013

Bucatini – Braised Short Rib, Sweet Onion, Spicy Tomato, Caciocavallo

Semolina Gnocchi – Smoked Nueske’s Bacon, Peas, Black Truffle Crema, Parmigiano Reggiano

Tortellini – Ricotta and Mozzarella Tortellini, Parmegiano Broth, Fresh Oregano

Lasagna with Spinach and Red Peppers

Mailale Roman – Pork Ragu, San Marzano, Bufala Mozarella, Basil, Caramelized Onions, Calabrian Peppers

Tartufo Neapolitan – Truffle Parmesan Crema, Fontina Fontal, Roasted Cremini, Over Easy Baked Egg

Oddero Barolo 2014

NY Steak – Truffle Tremor, Root Vegetables, Brown Butter

Double Espresso on Ice

Hexxcello – Hexx Single Origin Chocolate Mixed with Housemade Orangecello

Sweet Bufala Ricotta – Imported Bufala Ricotta, Organic Honey, Toasted Pistachio

Apple Pie Cannoli

Sweet Potato Pie Bread Pudding

Originally visited as a tourist in December 2012, the restaurant only two miles from my current home since passed by hundreds of times despite a favorable first meal, it was finally on the recommendation of Metro Pizza’s John Arena that an overdue return visit was paid to Due Forni, Chef Carlos Buscaglia organizing a five course experience that showed both the cuisine and space to be even better than I’d recalled.

At this point sort of a Summerlin “Classic,” the constant turnover at Red Rock and year-old Downtown seeing dozens of restaurants open since the wood-fired pizzeria first sprung onto the scene, those unfamiliar with the concept will find Due Forni’s dual ovens ready to greet patrons of all ages, the sort of place where serious diners can stop by the bar for charcuterie paired to a good glass while families simultaneously fill the corner booths for pizza as children pass the time playing with raw balls of dough.

Half-Roman and Half-Neapolitan in front of the fire, a tiny kitchen yielding a surprisingly large number of antipasti, primi, secondi, and dolci from the rear, it was to attentive service that our party of three was treated throughout the course of the evening and offering to pair wines with the meal a small splash of each was accepted, the crisp white from Sartarelli pleasantly washing the palate between bites of cheese and cured meats while equally cutting through the piquant puree beneath creamy black Morcilla.

Delighted to see an off-Strip chef attempting something as bold as blood sausage it was onward to antipasti that the meal marched on and opting to continue in a similar vein with two salads the only question was in which to invest the most appetite, the rolls of carpaccio wound loosely around nuts and mushrooms beneath a fragrant vinaigrette versus succulent slices of duck atop spinach that paired very nicely with a buttery Chardonnay.

Told that Buscaglia’s pastas outperform what might be expected from a pizzeria tucked away in the ‘burbs course three featured demi-portions of three styles of noodles topped in compelling sauces alongside a cast-iron crock of Lasanga reformulated each day, and although the version served was a bit too heavy in peppers for myself the others seemed to enjoy it plenty, the creamy rings far more befitting my palate in a light broth tinged with cheese while the gnocchi offered soft nuggets beneath rich cream and bacon lightened by peas.

Not particularly thrilled by Bucatini that came off starchy alongside shortrib that would have benefitted from a finer shred it was with lights from a nearby television flickering to my left that the second of two glasses of Red were brought forth, the hefty Barolo not particularly ideal in the setting of a springy Neapolitan covered in Fontina, Cremini Mushrooms, and Truffle Crema with a Baked Egg but far more appropriate when sipped between bites of crisp Mailale Roman enriched by pork and onions amidst bright tomatoes, not to mention a medium-rare cut of steak lent further complexity by brown butter and crumbled goat’s cheese.

Light music chiming overhead as the restaurant filled up with the hour passed eight it was in a small glass of Carlo’s 30+ day “Hexxcello” that meal transitioned to sweets, and although capacity was certainly reaching a limit at this point there was simply no way to abstain from the light-as-air ricotta drizzled with honey, let alone the tiny trio of cannoli that riffed on apple pie complete with crushed pie crust or a cast iron pan filled with piping hot seasonal bread pudding from which I was remiss to leave bites behind.

FOUR STARS: Taking far more chances than most Italian places off – or even on – Las Vegas Boulevard despite the limitations of a kitchen smaller than that of most Summerlin homes, Carlos Buscaglia’s Due Forni remains a sort of ‘secret’ in the growing shadow of an area increasingly marred by chains and shopping centers, a destination too long overlooked by myself and one that deserves more attention from those contemplating another overpriced burger, imported ‘concept,’ or feed-the-masses “dog friendly patio” sort of space. .

RECOMMENDED: Carpaccio, Blood Sausage, Spinach Salad, Tortellini, Roman Style Pizza, Desserts (plural.)

AVOID: Bucatini could have used a bit more time in the water and more attention to the chunks of meat, Lasagna was enormous and well made but simply not my style as a result of all the Bell peppers.

TIP: Open from 11a-10p Su-Th and till eleven o’clock on weekends, those looking for a deal would be well advised to check out Lunch and Happy Hour Specials while Groupon users may also wish to perform a search for offers available.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.

http://dueforni.com/main/index.html

Posted in Bread Basket, Bread Pudding, Coffee, Dessert, Due Forni, Food, Gnocchi, Hexx, Ice Cream, Italian, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pizza, Pork, Truffle

December 19, 2015
12:32 PM
by: Uhockey

Carson Kitchen [4,] Las Vegas NV

Carson Kitchen

Iced Tea

Wok Charred Edmame – Ginger Salt, Togarashi

Ancient Grain Greek – Farro, Quinoa, Lemon Yogurt

Blood Orange & Root – Salsify, Parsnip, Celery Root

Bacon Jam – Baked Brie, Toasted Baguette

Wild Mushroom Flatbread – Butternut Squash, Broccolini, Pickled Radish

Pear & Bleu Flatbread – Negroni’d Cranberries, Charred Brussels

Hawaiian Sliders – Spam, Pineapple, Seasoned Slaw w/ Spicy Tater Tots

Secret Sunday Chicken – Spicy Pickle Aioli w/ Spicy Tater Tots

Spuds & Sprouts – Pancetta, Allspice Cream

Steelhead Trout – Almond Relish, Creamed Kale

Turducken Pot Pie – Buttermilk Crumble

Shepard’s 3.14 – Gnocchi, Lamb, Natural Jus

Banoffee Pie – Bailey’s Whipped Cream, Chocolate Biscotti

The Thomas Collins – Spring 44 Old Tom Gin, Ginger Sage Syrup, Butternut Squash Water, Fresh Lemon

Dancing Nancy – Tito’s Vodka, Orgeat Syrup, Pernod, Crème de Cassis, Fresh Lemon

Sallynoggin – Jameson Irish Whiskey, Luxardo Mrascino, Fernet Vittone,Cinzano Bianco, Peychaud’s Bitters

Tenderoni – Woody Creek Potato Gin, Campari, Sweet Vermouth, Jagermeister Tincture

Not particularly ‘sold’ on Carson Kitchen at first, but converted over time and repeat visits to appreciate Cory Harwell’s cuisine as not only innovative but a heckuva lot of fun, it was with the winter 2015 menu recently launched that a party of four sat down to lunch amidst whimsical holiday décor, and with a soundtrack ranging from Stones to Killers playing overhead the two-hour tasting of nine new plates plus a handful of classics showed plenty of creativity, though the results were not quite on par with the exquisite offerings of late-summer and early autumn.

Bringing in the talents of John Courtney since our last visit, the familiar Vegas face now assisting Cory in menu development as the restaurant group eyes local expansion with the upcoming “Standard & Pour,” it was entirely at the culinary team’s discretion that courses were rolled out from the cozy hard-working kitchen and beginning with a tribute to Kerry Simon the charred edamame may not seem quite as novel as they once were, but nonetheless signify an important moment in the restaurant’s history, a reminiscent piece that would be even more interesting should they continue to flash back with additional classics of the “Rock n’ Roll” Chef as the years march forth.

Onward next to two new salads, Carson Kitchen’s rich Bacon Jam with Brie making an appearance just in case we thought the course too light, Harwell again looks to introduce novel ingredients in interesting ways with a Greek Salad anchored by toothsome farro and quinoa, the yogurt not quite tangy enough to balance the plate’s substantial nuttiness, a far more elegant flavor profile spanning the “Blood Orange & Root” that saw bright acid alongside hearty salsify, parsnip, and celery root with a slight sweetness lingering at the end.

Next presenting two new flatbreads it was much like the past that results were a bit hit and miss, for as good as the Wild Mushroom version was at bringing mustiness in check with creamy squash and pickled radish the Pear & Bleu was really only interesting for the craisins plumped by flavors of a negroni, the charred sprouts suffocating any sweetness from thinly sliced pears and almost so bitter as to overwhelm the punchy cheese as well.

Acknowledging my personal bias against Spam, the salty processed meat holding neither nostalgic nor hipster value when a world of charcuterie is available to be explored, I’ll simply say that Carson Kitchen’s current sliders are better than most presentations, though money is still better invested in any of the restaurant’s other sandwiches, the “Sunday Chicken” somehow a glaring omission in items tasted on past visits but an upgrade in all ways over the Chick-fil-a version on which it is based.

Still smiling about the pickle relish it was again Brussel Sprouts that were brought to our table and although put to far better use in whole form alongside tender wrinkly potatoes and the flavors of allspice only a small sample was necessary from a dish intended for sharing, particularly as the crispy skinned trout over creamed kale is the sort of plate one is likely to covet for themselves.

No doubt trending heavier than last menu, the winter theme evident even in a city where snow is less common than an honest Hotel Public Relations Department, concluding savories consisted of Cory’s hefty pot pie placing chicken, turkey, and intentionally prominent duck in a rich gravy beneath crumbled buttermilk biscuits, the “Shepard’s 3.14” a collaborative effort between he and Courtney that lightens up the British meat and potatoes staple with tender dumplings and plenty of vegetables alongside supple lamb in natural jus.

Ending the meal with two orders of Banoffee Pie, the dish *supposedly* brought back “just for me,” fans of the traditional version will be happy to know that the flavors of Banana and Toffee are equally present and poignant beneath a cloud of Bailey’s whipped cream in a full-size mason jar and although a retread from the past still a truly delicious treat that, if rumors are true, should see Las Vegans offering me their thanks.

FOUR STARS: Still an extremely relevant restaurant in Las Vegas with a menu from which a great meal can easily be had, it is perhaps a difference in tastes that saw this visit a bit less enjoyable than those preceding it, but with places like Glutton and others now offering far more dynamic menus including daily specials one also must consider just how much the competition has grown…and how long spicy tots plus a dozen plates present since day one can continue to draw the same diners back.

RECOMMENDED: Banoffee Pie, Turducken Pot Pie, Secret Sunday Chicken, Blood Orange and Root

AVOID: Ancient Grain Greek, Pear & Bleu Flatbread

TIP: Admittedly a lightweight in the realm of cocktails, a fan of the Manhattan and Negroni I certainly am not, those who value such things will be happy to hear that a knowledgeable friend praised both The Thomas Collins and the Tenderoni while my fondness for the Dancing Nancy probably qualifies me for some sort of label, the fruit-forward flavor quite pleasant with the vodka flavor dialed way back by anise.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://carsonkitchen.com

Posted in Carson Kitchen, Dessert, Food, Gnocchi, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pizza, Pork, Tasting Menu

December 19, 2015
8:29 AM
by: Uhockey

Kitchen Table [2,] Henderson NV

Kitchen Table

Coffee

Bacon S’Mores Muffin

Nutella Donut

Citrus Skillet Coffee Cake

Lemon Pound Cake

Monkey Bread

Chocolate Croissant

Biscuits and Foie – House Marmalade, Peanut Butter, Seared Foie Gras

Chorizo Crepe – Chorizo, House Potatoes, Poblanos, Oaxacan Cheese

Chiliquiles – Ancho Sauce, Oaxacan Cheese, Smoked Pork, Scrambled Eggs, Black Beans, Sunny Side Up Egg

Croque Madame – Challah, Gruyere, Bechamel, Thick Ham, Sunny Side Up Egg with Arugula Greens, Tomato, Cucumber Salad

Benedict Sampler: Pork Belly, Meatless, Shorty with House Potatoes (Pork Belly Benedict – Roasted Belly, Jalapeno Hollandaise, English Muffin / Meatless – Poached Eggs, Avocado, Fried Green Tomatoes, Arugula, Hollandaise, English Muffin / Shorty – Braised Short Rib, Poached Egg, Hollandaise, Red Wine Reduction, English Muffin)

House Potatoes

Duck and Cheese Omelette – Four Eggs, Housemade Mac and Cheese, Duck Confit

Nutella Crepe – Sauteed Bananas, Nutella, Toasted Almonds, Whipped Cream

Tomato & Egg – Arugula, Olive Oil, Cottage Cheese, Balsamic Reduction, Fried Green Tomatoes, Poached Eggs, Toast

Noble Tonic 1 – Bourbon Barrel Aged, Noble Tonic 2- Vanilla & Chamomile Infused Maple Syrup

Fosters Pancakes – Buttermilk Pancakes with Rum Sauteed Bananas, Brown Sugar, Butter, Whipped Cream

Already planning an expedited return before final bites were taken on 12/13/15 it was less than six full days later that I sat with two different friends at Kitchen Table and treated to fourteen additional menu items plus two repeats and two updates it now seems even safer to say that Henderson has a hit on its hands while the rest of Las Vegas has a higher mark on which to set its aim.

This time arriving at 8:00am, only two other parties present as Chefs Nunez and Chavez pulled double duty in the kitchen and greeting guests, it was again with a few requests added to those offered at the Chefs’ suggestion that the feast took place, the muffins from prior seeing a significant upgrade in the toasted marshmallow topped version studded with chocolate and bacon while the Nutella Donut was light and airy, the buttery poundcake a textbook piece of work with ample citrus helping to balance the shiny sugar shellacking.

Opting against Foie Gras on visit one, but this time happy to indulge, plates from the kitchen kicked off in grand fashion by placing a generous slice of seared liver atop a golden housemade biscuit and although on their own likely enough to impress most the experience is undeniably enhanced by orange marmalade and freshly ground peanut butter plus just a touch of salt, the presentation on par to anything being served at an expensive Strip steakhouse but costing a mere fraction despite all the work involved.

Agile in their menu approach, some items axed with new concepts in play just nine days out-the-gate, both the crepe filled with chorizo beneath a smoky sauce and the tweaked Chiliquiles are bound to delight those seeking something spicy while the Croque Madame is the sort of thing that will see fans of Bouchon saying “Thomas who?” as a thick slice of Parisienne Ham and melted Gruyere rest on toasted Challah crowned by a sunny side egg and ladle of buttery housemade Bechamel.

Next presenting a sampler of less than half Kitchen Table’s Bennys, those in search of a classic needing not fear as one is indeed offered, it should seem obvious that Antonio and Javier show no boundaries when coloring outside the lines and although the meltingly tender shortribs topped in a red wine demi were a touch too salty, both the piquant pork belly and ‘veg’-friendly Meatless were as elegant as they were imaginative, the later particularly compelling with cream, crunch, pepper, and acid all contributing to a refreshing and clean taste.

Throwing caution to the wind with plate eight, a plethoric four-egg omelette with a fluffy fold doing an admirable job in lightening the load of four cheese macaroni and crispy duck confit, follow-ups of a subtle nutella crepe topped in sauteed bananas as well as the Nunez’s update of his childhood favorite “Tomato & Egg” were forgivingly quite light, the healthful option featuring cottage cheese, crisp greens, fried green tomatoes, and the sweetness of Saba proving far greater than the sum of its parts with two poached eggs and toast perfect for dipping.

One diner down with the other waving his napkin like a white flag, it still seemed pertinent to request Nunez and Chavez send us off with a stack of pancakes that rival any buttermilk flapjack in town, and opting for a trio topped in boozy Bananas Fosters the only question remaining was when to call it quits, each pillow-soft bite commanding another even after all the bananas were eaten as Noble Tonics No.1 and No.2 each offered a completely different experience, Kitchen Table’s attention to detail again noteworthy in a city where Aunt Jemima has previously been billed as “artisan.”

FIVE STARS: An unabashed fan of breakfast, the number of famous am eateries visited in the course of my travels almost embarrassing when looked when looked at as a whole, Kitchen Table has instantly emerged as one of my favorite restaurants in all of Southern Nevada and speaking from a place of experience I only hope their momentum continues as two consecutive visits show the sort of quality on par with anything coast-to-coast.

RECOMMENDED (this visit): Croque Madame, Biscuits and Foie, Bacon S’Mores Muffin, Monkey Bread, Meatless Benny, Duck and Cheese Omelette, Fosters Pancakes.

AVOID: To Nitpick, Shorty Benny was a bit salty and the Chicken and Waffles listed online is not currently offered as Nunez and Chavez do not wish to roll it out until “perfect.”

TIP: Making everything in house that they can, from jams and peanut butter to sauces, roast pork, and confit, the extremely small kitchen has forced Kitchen Table to outsouce all the breads except their biscuits, the recipes all their own but the execution left to the good folks at Bon Breads…as if these guys would simply settle for something less than what they could think up themselves?

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.

http://www.kitchentablelv.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Breakfast, Coffee, Croissant, Foie, Food, Henderson, Kitchen Table, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pancakes, Pork

December 13, 2015
10:26 AM
by: Uhockey

Kitchen Table, Henderson NV

Kitchen Table

Coffee Cake

Monkey Bread

Chocolate Croissant

Cinnamon Roll

Glazed Donut

Pistachio Chocolate Muffin

Banana Walnut Muffin

Empanadas – Squash, Corn, Roasted Chilies, Asadero Cheese, Salsa Verde

Ham and Cheese Crepe – Parisienne Ham, Gruyere Cheese, Mornay Sauce

Fruit Crepe – Fresh Fruit Compote, Powdered Sugar, Whipped Cream

Tostada – Suckling Pig, Black Beans, Cilantro Slaw, Salsa, Quail Egg

Smoked Salmon and Caviar – Crema Caviar, Smoked Salmon, Quail Eggs, Bilinis, Dill Oil, Micro Greens

Chiliquiles – Ancho Sauce, Oaxacan Cheese, Smoked Pork, Black Beans, Poached Eggs

Monte Cristo – Parisienne Ham, Muenster Cheese, Raspberry Jam (Fried)

Peaches and Cream Pancakes – Brandied Peaches, Toasted Almonds, Crème Anglaise

French Toast – Powdered Sugar, Nobel Maple Syrup

Doughnut Sandwich – Sausage, Fried Egg, White Cheddar

Announced in late summer as a collaboration between Chefs Antonio Nunez and Javier Chavez with only a modest amount of hype preceding an early December launch, Kitchen Table joins the likes of Jaret Blinn’s CRAFTkitchen and Mothership Coffee Roasters in redefining Henderson as the Valley’s premiere place for baked goods and early morning eats as well as week-long brunch.

Conceptualized as a “Social Eatery,” Las Vegas native and Henderson resident Nunez speaking fondly of his neighbors and the sense of community he hopes to enliven at the restaurant focused on comfort foods with an upscale twist, Kitchen Table’s layout puts the action near the entry and with a bounty of baked goods beckoning those on-the-go or waiting the rest of the restaurant spans no more than perhaps seventy seats, the narrow space cozy and pleasant with noise level buzzy yet never so loud as to distract.

Offering a plethora of choices, some straight forward while others are likely to raise eyebrows or elicit ohh’s and ahh’s, Nunez and Chavez bring the combined experience of time spent behind many of Las Vegas’ premier stoves to cuisine that runs the gamut from European Cafe to American Diner, plus several referencing Mexico with varying degrees of heat.

Unwilling to cut corners, attention to detail noted in quality ingredients like Nobel Syrup, sustainable Caviar, and local produce while proteins such as the pork are roasted on-site by the chefs, the social concept of Kitchen Table is evidenced by Nunez and his staff’s frequent tableside visits – invitations for criticism levied as “the only way we’ll know how to improve” while diners are rarely, if ever, left for want.

No doubt a place for groups, the average check likely $20-25 per person though getting out under $10 could be accomplished for those dining light, it was with two others that a substantial tasting of Chavez and Nunez recipes was enjoyed on a busy Sunday morning, the seven pastries an admitted “work in progress” featuring the talents of Michael Russ II from Gimme Some Sugar, the sticky Monkey Bread arguably the best in town while a twisted cinnamon roll and skillet coffee cake were equally impressive, the chocolate muffin unfortunately too dry to be recommended though the banana walnut version was exceedingly natural in flavor and itself quite moist.

Starting out lightly, some plates sent out by a beaming Antonio who really seems to be in his element at the pass with a full house of diners ready to see the labors of several months of work, items from the kitchen kicked off with three oilless empanadas stuffed with vegetables amidst tangy green salsa and moving onward to crepes both sweet and savory the question of which was ‘best’ is most appropriately answered by “whatever you’re in the mood for” the ham and Gruyere version delightful with buttery Mornay while the alternative featured strawberries and a center of housemade fruit spead.

Continuing with savory flavors, two of the next three plates taking a south-of-the-border approach, it seems likely that Kitchen Table’s crisp Tostadas are destined to become a signature item as cilantro slaw and salsa add levity to the richness of suckling pig and creamy beans, the Chiliquiles trending a bit more heavy with two poached eggs and the heat of Ancho chiles served atop tortillas, melted cheese, and pulled pork imbued with smoke.

Elegantly offering caviar with smoked salmon and traditional flavors atop tiny hotcakes crowned with a quail’s egg, it was at this point that the meal veered towards the items I’d requested, the golden Monte Cristo served fried as the classic recipe intended with top quality ham, Muenster, and a dusting of powdered sugar making it the best version in a hundred miles even prior to the addition of sour raspberry jam.

With tablemates throwing in the towel but Chef Nunez not yet ready to stop the fun, it was mostly as a solo that sweeter parts of the menu were investigated, and although the foie gras topped options were saved for another time it seems difficult to imagine them as too much an upgrade to the ‘plain’ French Toast with an almost custard like center let alone a stack of airy buttermilk pancakes beneath boozy peaches and elegant crème Anglaise.

Rounding out the morning with a sliced and griddled donut that was sturdy yet light both here and when tasted all alone, suffice it to say that the addition of sausage, egg, and aged cheddar was a more than worthy addition, though limited capacity and conversation with my neighbors could only see me muster a bite or two at most.

FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Perhaps a bit early to dub a smash hit, though a large menu yielded only one dry muffin while service was exemplary aside from a premature turn of my table when I stood up to talk to a familiar local restauranteur, a return visit is already in the works for a seat at Kitchen Table next weekend, the breadth of the menu requiring a bit more exploration along with friends of a like palate…though some repeats may prove too enticing to resist.

RECOMMENDED: Monte Cristo, Monkey Bread, Tostada, Peaches & Cream Pancakes.

AVOID: Pistachio Chocolate Muffin, and if we’re being nitpicky also the Chocolate Croissant as I don’t even recall tasting it despite photographic evidence that I did.

TIP: M-Su 7a-4p with pastries varying day-to-day, those looking to avoid a wait may consider dining during the weekdays or outside peak breakfast hours on weekends as there was a forty-minute wait for a two-top at noon on the opening weekend Sunday that I went.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.

http://www.kitchentablelv.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Breakfast, Coffee, Croissant, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Henderson, Kitchen Table, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pancakes, Pork

December 12, 2015
6:34 PM
by: Uhockey

Cardenas Market, Las Vegas NV

Cardenas Market

Tamal de Puerco

Tamal Jalapeno Con Queso Crema

Tamal de Fresa

Tamal de Pollo En Salsa Verde (Hand Made by Me!)

Taco El Pastor, Taco Tripa, Taco Chicharrón

Apple Turnover

Pumpkin Empanada

Strawberry Stick

Bread Pudding

Caramel Flan

Carrot Cake

Tres Leches

French for breakfast, Italian for lunch, and without plans or pals for dinner it was largely as a result of location that led me tthrough the doors of Cardenas Market – the results of a whim finding a lively group of patrons busying the aisles as a free tamale-making session took place adjacent the food court, two spots left for the next twenty-minute class compelling me to join in.

One of a few local locations, this one on Meadows Lane in the Loma Vista Shopping Center, Cardenas is widely considered to be THE local place for traditional Mexican ingredients, but with most signage bilingual along with the staff the environment is entirely welcoming while products range from supermarket standards to off-cuts of meat and chiles ranging far and wide.

Enjoying the class, though in reality the pre-cooked meats and cornmeal made the lesson one of folding and assembly, it was with amusement that I stood side-by-side with 23 Hispanic women and one young man and watching the woman at center with a microphone offer tips the process actually proved quite easy, the results of my effort virtually indistinguishable from four more tamales made fresh by the staff of the store.

At this point deciding it would be appropriate to make a meal out of my Cardenas visit, the food court consistently with a line and the food appearing fresh with tacos made to order, it was with only $11.13 exchanged for three-tacos and a quartet of tamales that dinner was served – the “green chicken” from my creation identical in flavor to that from their steamer with a light bit of heat permeating the juicy grilled bird.

At one station watching fowl roast over flame while spicy pork was sliced from a rotating spit to the rear, additional bites of tamales featured creamy cheese tinged in jalapenos followed by juicy bits of pork amidst the smoothly textured cornmeal, the bright pink strawberry version more interesting than it was delicious, my naivety exhibited in that I didn’t know such a thing to exist.

Offering far more than typical “American” tacos, eclectic meats such as tongue, tripe, head, and skin all served with cilantro and tomatoes atop tortillas being churned out warm by a machine less than thirty feet away, a plate of three showed the al pastor to be a bit too heated for my mild Midwestern palate while the intestine was velvety soft and full of flavor, the Chicharrón in green sauce texturally quite complex.

Happy to watch the bakers at work, a team of at least ten seen mixing, rolling, layering, and slicing even towards the end of the day, it was with four baked goods and three cake slices taken to-go that I checked out at the register, another $8.96 exchanged for a gluttonous amount of food.

Sitting down at home to watch some hockey, the items all laid out and visually quite well made, first bites of bread pudding were improved substantially by a quick pan warming and with rich cinnamon notes the texture was firm but yielding, both compliments unfortunately inappropriate to caramel flan that was gelatinous with a flavor that was quite bland.

Happily snapping into a cream cheese baton with strawberries before making a mess of the table as a shower of pastry fell from the airy apple pastry, it was with less enthusiasm that a pocket of pumpkin was found to be largely devoid of spice or sweetness, neither an issue when speaking of springy carrot cake beneath a forgivingly light layer of icing and the later dialed up “to eleven” in the case of Tres Leches that was sopping wet while still maintaining structural integrity, the aeration of the crumb spectacular with each “last bite” compelling “just one more.”

THREE AND A HALF STARS: Purporting no expertise in Hispanic grocers, but aware of product quality and typical ingredient costs. Cardenas offers a great variety of goods with prices comparable to Smith’s or Albertsons, while the food court is interesting albeit uneven, the friendliness of staff and patrons definitely a plus.

RECOMMENDED: Tres Leches, Strawberry Stick, Green Chicken Tamale, Chicharrón Taco

AVOID: Caramel Flan, Pumpkin Empanada, Taco Al Pastor.

TIP: 7am to 10pm Seven Days a Week.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.

http://www.cardenasmarkets.com/

Posted in Bread Pudding, Cardenas, Cardenas Market, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork

December 12, 2015
11:12 AM
by: Uhockey

Metro Pizza on Sky Pointe [2,] Las Vegas NV

Metro Pizza

House made Bread

Fried Calzone – Rapini, Scamorza, Fennel Sausage. In the Style of Pizzeria De’ Figliole Family Owned and Operated since 1860

Pizza Per Mia Nonna – Meatballs with Raisins and Pine Nuts. In the Sbagliata Style of Franco Pepe

Pizza Con Due Pomodori – Fiore de Latte with Fresh and Sun Dried Tomatoes

Pizza Con Mortadella – Pistachio, Robiola, Lemon Zest. Inspired by our Collaboration with Michele D’Amelio

La Pizza da Caizzo – Tuna, Capers, Celery, Guanciale

Pizza NY Extra – Bufala Mozzarella and 24-Month High Mountain Parmigiano from Valley Cheese and Wine. Bringing Italian Flavors to New York style Pizza

Rainbow Cookies

Vanilla Gelato atop Crushed White Chocolate Pistachio Shortbread, Topped with Corto‬ Olive Oil, Toasted Pistachio and Sea Salt

Cannoli

Having been fortunate enough to set up a history lesson in all-things-pizza with local legend John Arena a few months ago it was as a group of twelve that round two took place on Saturday afternoon, and although not quite as comprehensive as the previous experience a tasting of six pies based on recipes seen during John’s recent trip to Italy proved across-the-board exemplary, as too did dessert from Chris Decker of Lulu’s Bread and Breakfast fame.

Obviously not using ingredients typical to Metro, though the majority featured signature five-day fermented dough with a springy yeasted crumb, it was with all seated that a pair of golden calzones landed center-table, the light fry not imparting even the slightest hint of oiliness while the semi-soft cheese presented like a less-stretchy mozzarella melding bitter greens and sausage rife with herbal notes.

Sourcing Italian legend Franco Pepe for round two, the dried fruit and buttery seeds proving a nice pairing to Metro’s housemade Meatballs that have pleased legions of Las Vegans for years, round three was moreso a study in simplicity, the fresh cheese milky and clean while two styles of tomato came across bold and acidic, though one in the group apparently felt the pizza could have been a bit more sweet.

Returning to options less commonly seen stateside for pizzas four and five, it can only be said that many at the table smiled widely at the combination of mortadella and pistachios amidst bloomy Robiola kissed by citrus, the use of tuna and capers causing some suspicion in the follow-up though slices of celery and peppery ‘jowl bacon’ helped gently rein the brine in.

Saving a special treat for last, the project for which John had been recruited to Italy proudly put on display in a new flour that became crisp and pocketed without blister in the same ovens that yielded the previous four, even those completely bursting-at-the-seams were compelled to take a taste of the pie crowned in top tier mozzarella and parmigiano, a straggling final slice happily mine to grab.

Turning to Chef Decker at this point, though it bears mention that he was there helping John throughout the afternoon, it still strikes me odd that neither Metro or Lulu’s has considered a full offering of Italian pastries as The Valley is sorely lacking but be that as it may the cannoli are still amongst the best in the city while both the tricolor and “cookies & cream” sundae were equally excellent…now if only they’d start working on those sfogliatella and baba.

RATING N/A: Not really a ratable experience given the special nature of the menu it warrants mention that John can often be found making pizzas both locally and around the world in collaboration with many giants of the industry, and for those truly interested there is always the option to take a course from the man himself at UNLV, or to simply pop in to any Metro Pizza for a taste of any of their signature pies.

RECOMMENDED: Pizza Con Mortadella – Pistachio, Robiola, Lemon Zest, Pizza Per Mia Nonna – Meatballs with Raisins and Pine Nuts, Pizza NY Extra – Bufala Mozzarella and 24-Month High Mountain Parmigiano from Valley Cheese and Wine.

AVOID: N/A

TIP: Planning for a parking lot pizza demo in the coming months with several additional ideas in the works, 2016 looks to be a big year for John, Chris, and Metro – attention to social media is advised.

http://metropizza.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Italian, Las Vegas, Metro Pizza, Metro Pizza Centennial, Nevada, Pizza, Pork

December 12, 2015
7:02 AM
by: Uhockey

Rosallie [2,] Las Vegas NV

Rosallie

Americano

Duck Confit on Whole Wheat Petite Tourte with Onion Jam

Madeline

Chocolate Almond Croissant

Walnut Pie

Apple Tart

Almond Feuilletine

Petite Tourte

Praline Buche Noel

Almond Croissant

Croissant

Macaron – Pistachio, Chocolate, Espresso

Palmier

Dashing down to South Rainbow Boulevard shortly after hearing about Rosallie to find the work of Jonathan Pluvinet shockingly authentic for French pastry in Sin City it was only a matter of time before a return trip was planned to see more of the Niece native’s growing variety, a few days exploring Bordeaux recalibrating the palate, but in no way changing opinions that Pluvinet’s tarts and viennoiserie would compare favorably to those in his home country.

Greeted like a friend by Pluvinet on Saturday, though I had hardly made his acquaintance prior to co-writing an article about the Rosallie in David Magazine, it was with Christmas decorations in full display and festive music overhead that the sizable cafe again extended greetings and with stories exchanged about his skiing background, move to America, and childhood working at his family’s restaurant the young chef’s knowledge and passion were readily evident, a dedication to his craft seemingly already noticed by locals as a steady stream of traffic sat down to breakfast or opted to take home pastries by the bag.

Intelligently expanding his selection slowly, a calculated maneuver in a city where enormous menus of mediocre fare are generally truncated quickly…at least for the restaurants that last more than a few months…the focus at Rosallie remains pastry, sandwiches, and salads plus tea and coffee, the later besting any in France though the sheer quality of the beans while the imported French duck atop fresh baked bread is rendered in-house to a crisp succulence beneath lightly sweeten onion jam.

Having already sampled several baked goods, and as such allowing Chef Jonathan to serve whatever he pleased, first bites of a Madeline previously marred by chocolate spoke to far greater flavor and softness this time around while the almond croissant imbued with chocolate was every bit as lovely as butter and almond versions experienced last time, a huge mess still made by shards of the shattering shell.

Not one to ‘Americanize’ the menu, though an elegant ‘apple tart’ would properly rival all but the most elaborate Tart Tatin overseas, those looking for something rarely seen Stateside are well advised to invest in a slice of Walnut Pie, the bitter nut more common in Europe providing a great bit of balance compared to the more common Pecan version found throughout America that is oftentimes far too sweet.

Impressed by the thinness of feuilletines and a Palmier that probably should not be eaten in the car or anywhere with rugs unless a vacuum is nearby it was with several gifts to-go that I bid Adieu to Jonathan and his growing team, the macarons still perfect with the natural pistachio flavor particularly impressive while croissants raise the bar for everyone else in Southern Nevada, as too does the buttercream Buche Noel that comes as a sharable portion in one of three flavors, the cheerfully decorated praline version outshowing ‘yule logs’ from Manon, Bouchon, and even Jean-Phillipe.

FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Finally a place consistently offering croissants on par to those found overseas and really making an effort to grow the business through quality and craftsmanship it should go without saying that Rosallie is a special place that will likely only continue to improve, another in a growing line-up of Off-Strip Chefs that need and deserve their community’s love and support.

RECOMMENDED: Almond Croissant, Walnut Pie, Butter Croissant, Pistachio Macaron, Apple Tart.

AVOID: N/A.

TIP: 7a-6p M-Su, Free WiFi. Holiday Gift Baskets currently available and more seasonal specialities including Pithivier / Galette des Rois soon to join the Buche Noel – call-in/advanced orders advised.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.

Home

Posted in Bread Basket, Breakfast, Coffee, Croissant, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Macaron, Nevada, Rosallie, Rosallie 'Le French Cafe'

December 5, 2015
7:39 PM
by: Uhockey

IS SWEET, Las Vegas NV

Is Sweet

“Banoffie” Pie

Honey Toast with Strawberry Ice Cream and Vanilla Pudding

Cinnamon Coffee Cake with Candied Pecans

Nutella Mousse

Located in back of the Spring Mountain plaza housing Viet Noodle IS SWEET has received a fair bit of praise ever since opening doors in the middle of 2015, and with several desserts served to compliment a broad-ranging menu of coffee and teas the cozy spot shows well for an Locals-only sort of spot, though prices are often comparable to the likes of Bouchon on Jean-Philippe.

Open late and offering free WiFi, the staff exceedingly pleasant if not particularly pressed for pace, those visiting IS SWEET are likely to be tempted by several cute confections in addition to honey toast and waffles made-to-order, the quoted preparation time of fifteen minutes proving a low-ball estimate as a lone barrista and man in the kitchen struggled with orders despite only a half-dozen total guests.

Levied a tab of $25.57 for four desserts and tap water before adding a tip, a tasting of IS SWEET began with a small slice of British favorite Banoffie Pie, the flavor of fruit largely overwhelming the toffee amidst the creamy base as drizzles of chocolate and caramel further compromised the experience, a block of honey toast proving far better crafted with a base price of $4.00 boosted by a $1.00 dollop of Vanilla pudding plus $1.25 for ice cream without which the toasted bread would seem to be a waste.

Taking two more treats for home, the Nutella Mousse apparently carrying a premium entirely as a result of the artistry involved, suffice it to say that at a cost of $6 the light dessert was most certainly not worth a buck-fifty a bite, the far better taste and value found in a ‘coffee cake’ that defied convention, the hefty notes of cinnamon smoothed by creamy frosting while honey glazed nuts added texture and finesse traditionally reserved to fine-dining and plated sweets.

TWO AND A HALF STARS: Unfortunately a bit too precious for its own good, even the honey toast which seems like a good deal turning out to be a bit pricey when accounting for portion after adding ice cream, IS SWEET is perhaps best visited with a group intent on sharing and sampling, though smallish portions may even make that a stretch.

RECOMMENDED: Coffee Cake, Honey Toast (if only for the degree of customization offered.)

AVOID: Nutella Mousse, arriving during peak times.

TIP: Offering 10% off beverages for Yelp Check-Ins. Open 11am till Midnight seven days a week.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

Posted in Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, IS SWEET, Las Vegas, Nevada

December 5, 2015
5:40 PM
by: Uhockey

Ramen Sora, Las Vegas NV

Ramen Sora

Gyoza

Spicy Miso Ramen

Corn Butter Miso Ramen

Fancied by legions of fans around the world, and certainly seeing a renaissance in America that goes beyond the 25-cent cups commonly seen around college dorms, Ramen Noodles have never really held much interest to someone that really does not love soups with clear broth, but attempting to understand a trend that generates lines in America and Michelin Stars overseas it was with a friend that Ramen Sora was visited for 6 o’clock dinner, the small shop on Spring Mountain supposedly Las Vegas’ best.

Small and dingy on the outside, the sort of place passers-by could easily blink and miss, Ramen Sora cites its Sapporo heritage with signage at the door and once inside the scene brightens substantially, several tables laid out with good spacing while pop-music chimes over the din of the crowd.

Smallish in menu, a few appetizers joining soups in one of three styles of broth, those arriving during peak hours should expect a short wait, the staff friendly and efficient with bowls emerging from the kitchen at a relatively rapid rate.

Opting for water and tea service, a few alcoholic selections also available to those choosing to imbibe, it was mere minutes after orders were placed before five pan-seared potstickers landed on the table, a ground chicken filling nicely textured and exceedingly juicy with a sesame based sauce served alongside for those desiring an extra bit of umami.

Onward to the soups, noodles of the pre-packaged variety made by Sun and thus no different than anywhere else, it was at the advice of our waitress that the ‘signature’ miso soup was selected for both bowls instead of Shoyu or Shio and with a description of ‘creamy’ the pork infused broth was indeed rich, the spicy beef addition leaving a tingle on the lips while a small knob of butter added even more depth to the corn studded version that trended ever so slightly sweet.

Happy to see an egg and shoots added for texture, the noodles springy but rather redundant bite-after-bite, it perhaps should have been a sign when the table adjacent added several pieces of Chasu to their four-person order, the four bites of pork belly included in our bowls easily the most memorable part of the meal and so tender that it almost melts on the tongue.

THREE STARS: Potentially underrated by someone whose basis of comparison consists of less than a handful of noodle houses to date, it is simply difficult to get excited for something based on pre-packaged starch and pork broth served in a gigantic portion no matter how good, a menu with more options or at least more room for customization potentially something I could grow to understand and maybe even love.

RECOMMENDED: The Gyoza and Chashu are both excellent.

AVOID: Sort of a ‘stick to what you know’ place, those looking for more than just ramen may wish to pass,

TIP: All bowls are offered in three sizes (+$1 for large, +2 for super-size) with extra toppings offered a la carte for $0.50 to $1.50 depending.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://ramensora.com.ph

Posted in Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork, Ramen Sora

December 5, 2015
7:41 AM
by: Uhockey

The Buffet, Las Vegas NV

The Buffet

Water and Coffee

Red Velvet Pancakes with Strawberry Compote, Chocolate Chips, Crème Anglaise, Pure Maple Syrup

Parmesan Chicken with Melted Tomato Sauce, Sinatra Family Meatballs, Grilled Vegetable Polenta with Red Pepper Coulis, Olive Loaf, Rosemary Brioche, Garlic Knots

Congee with green onions, pickled cucumber, century egg

Crispy Vegan Spring Roll, Sweet Chili Chicken Wings, Char Sui Bao, Chicken Potstickers

Cranberry Apple Cobbler, Butterscotch Bread Pudding

White Cheddar Mac and Cheese, Applewood Bacon, Pork Breakfast Sausage, Tasso Ham and Cajun Hollandaise Benedict, Baked Caribbean Grits with Creole Shrimp

White Chocolate Orange French Toast with Stewed Apricots, Lemon Ricotta Crespelles, Crispy Belgian Waffles, Blueberry Danish, Neufchatel Cheese Danish, Butter Croissant with Strawberry Port Jam and Pear Cardamom Preserves

BBQ Beef Rib, Pepper Crusted Maple Bacon, Brown Sugar and Whole Grain Mustard Glazed Ham, Pollo a la Brasa

Madeline, Apple Carmelia, Chocolate Chip, Oatmeal Raisin, Snickerdoodle, Caramel Red Velvet Cupcake, Strawberry Shortcake, Cracker Jack Cake, Carrot Cake, Lemon Tart

Green Vanilla Yogurt and Chia Seed Parfait, Sticky Toffee Pudding, Arrowhead Mills Oatmeal Brule, Swiss Blueberry Muselix, Vanilla Yogurt with Vanilla Crumble, Apricot, Almond Granola, Sugar Free Tiramisu, Chocolate Coconut Cake, Magic Bar, Smores Tart, Crème Brulee, Chocolate Molten Cake

Sea Salt Caramel Truffle, Milk Chocolate, Vanilla Chocolate Malt Ice Cream

At this point essentially an arms race, each hotel attempting to not only keep every visitor in house as long as possible but also trying to lure locals to The Strip more often, it was finally in late November that The Wynn briefly shuttered “The Buffet” in order to invigorate its lineup, an early December Brunch showing the space still gorgeous with nearly one-hundred unique offerings and the staff most certainly living up to Steve Wynn’s high standard.

Opening at 8am with a cost of just over $38 before tip or booze, brunch at The Buffet begins at the queue where traffic flow is guided by a pair of attendants, VIPs and guests shelling out an extra $20 ushered past the masses where seating for six-hundred awaits, the most coveted tables those offered in the sunbathed garden room decorated with large balls of flowers.

Divided into sections, in this way no different from any other space on or off Strip, it is well advised to peruse the options thoroughly on arrival in order to identify one’s favorites and ‘must-have’ items, the enticements abound with several action stations and areas accounting for dietary discretions as well as ethnic preferences.

Not touting crab legs, lobster tails, or exotic ingredients like Bacchanal or Sterling, instead focusing on unique takes on breakfast standards with elegant presentations of healthful options like juice, fruit, and salads, those arriving early should check out omelet, crepe, or pancake stations before lines crepe past twenty and with the later offering three batters plus several mix-ins and toppings the execution of the pancakes is on par with that at any number of Las Vegas Boulevard eateries, the same to be said of crunchy Waffles and golden French Toast studded with white chocolate, the Crespelles creamy as can be though a little slight in citrus.

Bolstered by refilled pots of coffee and water that was repeatedly topped off without request, Italian is well represented in pizzas as well as a few hot skillets, the “Sinatra Family” meatballs small but tender with a bright tomato sauce while Parmesan Chicken eats lighter than one might expect, the garlic knots and polenta also well executed, though those with more modest appetites might be well advised to avoid such “filler.”

Passing on Sushi, Shrimp and Salmon, instead opting for a dim sum trio as well as a bowl of congee dressed up in pickled vegetables and a good bit of century egg, pork buns were unfortunately a bit bland while spring rolls and potstickers were both pleasant, the Thai style chicken wings surprisingly meaty with heat and sweetness kept in good balance.

Well represented in breakfast meats as well as roasted chicken and glazed ham, the beef rib and peppered slab bacon both missing the mark by being too dry and too heavily seasoned, respectively, macaroni and cheese sees an upgrade through the use of sharp white cheddar while Cajun Shrimp atop baked grits is one of the buffet’s best bites, the same flavors not as well represented in the benedict’s overly thick hollandaise.

No doubt a sucker for sweets, likely the least costly part of the buffet in terms of those looking to ‘get their money’s worth,’ baked goods including olive loaf and focaccia are nicely made, as are croissants and danishes, a collection of bruleed oats, museli, yogurt, granola, and various fruits all quite nicely presented, the chia parfait not really my thing though the lady at a table next to mine raved about it.

Taking the Petit Four approach to desserts, low sugar and gluten-free options available to those seeking such things, cookies are a decided must-miss as none are better than those from a package, the S’mores tart also disappointing with no smoke or graham cracker flavor evident, far better bites found in the cakes from which both Cracker Jack and Strawberry Shortcake were memorable, as too were the Apple Parfait and liquid centered Brownie, less so the sticky toffee pudding which was just sugary sweet.

Told that the bread pudding is a Wynn Signature, the Butterscotch laden scoop setting a high standard for anything one might find in all-you-can-eat form, it was perhaps even more surprising that the seasonal cobbler was a textbook rendition underneath Vanilla tinged crumble, the only thing preventing the overconsumption of each being limited remaining room in the stomach, that filled by three small scoops of ice-cream, the selection of a bowl over a fresh-made cone indicative of the amount of food eaten, but the malted version so rich and nuanced that there was some brief thought of going back for seconds.

THREE AND A HALF STARS: Assessing only the brunch, The Buffet at Wynn offers a good value for both the quality and quantity of the options, and while some will complain about the lack of Oysters or Crab Legs the recipes they are using are innovative and well executed for the most part, while service is several degrees upgraded from the standard.

RECOMMENDED: Butterscotch Bread Pudding, Seasonal Cobbler, Parmesan Chicken with Melted Tomato Sauce, Sweet Chili Chicken Wings, Baked Caribbean Grits with Creole Shrimp, Cracker Jack Cake.

AVOID: Cookies, Tasso Ham Benedict, Pepper Crusted Maple Bacon.

TIP: The Buffet is open for breakfast Monday through Friday, 8 to 11 a.m. priced at $23.99; lunch Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., priced at $26.99; and dinner Sunday through Thursday, 3:30 to 10 p.m., priced at $42.99. Gourmet dinner is served Friday and Saturday from 3:30 to 10 p.m. and is priced at $49.99. Brunch is served Saturday and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. priced at $34.99.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.

http://www.wynnlasvegas.com/Dining/CasualDining/TheBuffet

Posted in Bread Basket, Bread Pudding, Breakfast, Coffee, Croissant, cupcakes, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Madeline, Nevada, Pancakes, Pork, The Buffet, Tiramisu, Waffles

November 28, 2015
8:44 PM
by: Uhockey

Horma Ondo, Larrabetzu ES

Horma Ondo

Remirez de Ganuza Blanco 2014

House Made Bread

Grilled Sardine

Grilled Octopus with Onion Confit and Mashed Potatoes

1.1kg Txuletoia with Salad and Fries

Grilled Rice Pudding

Grilled Torrijas with Bourbon Ice Cream

Suggested by a well traveled friend as “arguably the best Txuletoia in all of Spain,” suffice it to say that Horma Ondo is not a ‘user friendly’ restaurant for those not native to Larrabetzu or the surrounding lands, but overcoming barriers in language, mislabeled phone numbers, and a location not easily located via GPS the experience of actually dining in the restaurant was undoubtedly a memorable one – mine the only reservation on a particularly stormy evening during which I was the restaurants’ only guest.

Located off a golf course high in the hills above Azurmendi, a sign near the Michelin 3* space actually the only reason I was able to locate Horma Ondo since the addresses listed online lead to a small school in the city, it was just after 20h00 that I climbed the steep hill in low-gear and arriving in a foyer filled will cigarette smoke I was greeted by a gruff, rotund man who spoke no English – a man I’d later find to be exceedingly pleasant after his daughter arrived to offer interpretation, the two of them actually the owners of the restaurant along with the wife/mother as well as a son/brother.

A surprisingly grand space, two floors of polished wood and several linen-lined tables ready in waiting as if for a banquet, it was at a sizable table to the left of the space that I sat and unaware as yet that I’d be the only diner present the menu and several specials were presented, a glass of dry white wine left for my hosts to select.

Silent save for some light local music, the owner inquiring as to how I’d heard of the place since they apparently do not see many tourists save for those brought as guests of locals known to the house, both he and his child who would act as my server seemed tickled by comments relayed about the beef, a trip to the kitchen seeing glowing coals dance as the Chef showed me the raw cuts hanging in a small aging room.

Treated to housemade rolls that were wispy on the inside beneath a dense outer shell it was with a grilled sardine that dining officially got underway and although the light amuse was indeed pleasan it simply could not compare to the several plates that followed, the tender tentacle of Octopus thoroughly imbued with smoke as good as any ever tasted atop caramelized confit onions and satin pommes puree.

Warned not to additionally order the Tripe or Foie Gras as the smallest steak available weighed in at hefty 1.1kg, it was thankfully heeding this advice that a small wait took place before the signature Txuletoia arrived atop a bed of wood-chips and embers, the texture even more appealing than that at Nido while the presentation saw an initially red center slowly fade to medium-rare, each bite lively with grassy aromatics while warm wafts of smoke slowly filled the air.

Told that everything in house was made over the grill it was admittedly attempting to poke fun that I questioned if the comment applied to dessert, but answering in a matter-of-fact way that clearly missed the humor I could not help but double up my order, the steeped and smoked grains of rice exceedingly tender amidst a warm custard base while the Grilled Torrijas appeared both rustic and blackened, each bite seeing smoke give way to sweetness and creamy custard, the ball of bourbon ice cream melding everything together into what was undoubtedly the best dessert tasted outside the United States this calendar year.

http://www.asadorhormaondo.com/cartadigital/index.html

Posted in Bilbao, Bread Basket, Bread Pudding, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Horma Ondo, Ice Cream, Larrabetzu, Octopus, Vacation

November 28, 2015
6:31 PM
by: Uhockey

La Turronería Iváñez, Bilbao ES

Eladio Ivanez Coloma Turroneria (La Turronería Iváñez)

Jijona Turron – Almond and Honey, Turron de Pistache

Polvorones, Marzipan, Pastries, Mazanougat

Crafting their signature nougat since 1860, with a single retail outlet on foot-access-only Correo Kalea, Turroneria Iváñez is something of a Bilbao institution and taking a chance to visit on “Black Friday” that suddenly seems to be a internationally celebrated holiday the small store was found to jammed packed, though they were one of the few offering no sales.

No doubt a tourist destination, but during my visit populated only by Spanish speaking natives on both sides of the exchange, it was with some fortune that an elderly patron spoke a limited amount of English and was happy to make some recommendations, the wrapped confections virtually indistinguishable from one another based on mere appearance though flavors ranged from honey and sugar to chocolate or dried fruit.

Taking my goods to the street, a “some for now, some for later” plan cast aside when early tastes showed most of the candies to be far lighter than those typically found back home, it was perhaps expected that nougat and nut options that proved most interesting as chocolates trended almost ‘chalky’ while fruits were mostly just sugary sweet.

Obviously not leaving Iváñez without tasting the signature items for which they are renowned it was with two sizable tablets of nougat tightly vacuum wrapped that the indulgence later commenced and partaking first in the seasonal pistachio version that tasted lightly sweet but moreso of nuts there is little doubt as to why the Jijona is considered to be the “signature” as each bite of the slowly melting candy comes across rich and silky with occasional spots of granulated honey juxtaposing those filled with salty roast Almonds.

http://turronbilbao.com/

Posted in Bilbao, Dessert, Eladio Ivanez Coloma Turroneria, Food, La Turronería Iváñez, Spain, Vacation

November 28, 2015
1:21 PM
by: Uhockey

Azurmendi, Larrabetzu ES

Azurmendi

Housemade Rum and Aromatic Herbs

Tuber Skin

Foie Gras Peanut

Parmesan Cheese Biscuit with Pepitas

“Cotton” Candy with Asparagus Dust

Zucchini with Spring Onion Emulsion

Avocado Bon-Bon

Gorka Izagirre 2014, Picnic Basket Homemade Salted Anchovy Millefeuille / CaipiriTxa / Roe and Dill, Black Corn

Chestnut Cracker and Juniper Infusion

Frozen Olive and Vermouth – Green Olive Ice Cream, Black Olive Soil, Candied Olive Twig

Bergamot and Ginger

42 by Eneko Atxa 2013

Egg from Our Hens, cooked inside out and Truffled – Tofu and Aromatic Oils

Olive Oil, Milk Bread

Oyster, tartar and Gelee – Oyster Leaf and Sea Fern

White Bread

Natural Spider Crab, emulsion and infusion

Tomato and Eel – Ice Cream, Gelee, Raw, Cooked

Roasted Lobster out of the shell on herb oil and chives

Artichokes and Pesto – Puree, Confit, Croquettas, Crisp

Stewed Wheat with Farmhouse Milk Emulsion and Ox Tail

Home Made Black Pudding, Arrano’s Red Bean Stock, Cabbage, Lightly Spiced Flower

Roasted Red Mullet on Vine Shoots, Fried Eggs and the broth of the Bones

Rabbit Confit, Mushroom Emulsion and Grilled Sweet Potato – Orange ‘Daiquiri”

Coconut and Passion – Panna Cotta, Passionfruit Textures

Cheese, Red Fruits, and Mint – Blue Cheesecake, Raspberry Ice Cream

Sheep Milk and Black Olives – Dark Chocolate

Mignardises – Ancient Grain Rochers, White Chocolate and Pink Pepper Lolli, Yogurt Marshmallow, Apricot Gelee, Honey Cracker, Mint Macaron, Spicy and Citrus Chocolates
(Corn Bread not Photographed)

Opened in 2005 by Eneko Atxa, a Basque native looking to not only change the way the world dines but also the way we think about food, Azurmendi sits high in the hills of Larrabetzu outside of Bilbao at once as a high-flying culinary trapeze act and at the same time an ode to innovations in sustainability, the steel-and-glass geothermal box contributing zero carbon footprint to it’s lush green surroundings.

A modernist dreamscape, the gleaming kitchen open to eyes of onlookers as Atxa and a team of 35 prepare two menus for guests that unfold over approximately twelve courses plus several bites offered during a tour of the grounds, those fortunate enough to secure a seat in the dining room are undoubtedly in for an experience unlike any other, one that encompasses not only superlative service and food but a trip into the process of a man interested in making a real difference.

As much a ‘campus’ as it is a restaurant, select wines and spirits made in a building further down the hill as lush gardens bloom both outdoors and inside a greenhouse experimenting with concepts as unique as growing lemon trees without soil, greetings at the entrance of Azurmendi quickly see guests ushered back outside where Stages, Chefs, and Gardeners explain techniques and improvisations, a splash of rum amidst an aromatic background offering a first taste followed by a chip made of only an ugly unnamed tuber’s skin and foie gras miming a peanut.

Continuing the tour with several vegetables expressed in textures one might never expect it was on return to the foyer that a picnic basket of treats were offered, the slowly dissipating avocado mousse from a candy cleansed from the palate by sips of house wine before indulging in the elegant anchovy Mille-Feuille.

Walked through the pristine kitchen en route to a table overlooking hills where a rainbow would later form as though staged by Atxa himself it was with greeting from one-and-all present that additional canapes were tasted, a total of fifteen bites and beverages offered before the menu itself began to unfold.

Divided into the €175 Adarrak and €145 Erroak, with substitutions and supplements allowed, it was with little hesitation that the former was selected with one extra course from the later and starting off with a glass of Eneko “42” at the Sommelier’s suggestion the dry white was a perfect accompaniment to a majority of the meal, a garden of melting olive quickly leading to the signature amuse of an egg yolk partially replaced with concentrated black truffle.

Pairing housemade breads to courses throughout the meal, follow-ups to the egg included an oyster explored in textures next to an oyster leaf beneath tempura sea fern and moving on to a smooth potage of spider crab the flavors transitioned from brine to something sweet and silky, the flavor when all mixed not all that different from She-Crab soup popular in the Southeast United States.

Spurred on by the textures and temperatures of famous “Tomato and Eel” and further impressed by the arc of flavors found in a lobster vessel to follow the meal only grew better with an Artichokes cream that rendered any guacamole in my memory inconsequential, the creamy croquettas flashing forward to similarly textured cubes of oxtail resting amidst pan jus fortified grains and smear of cheese.

Supplementing a sphere of black pudding resting in creamy beans with a rim of crispy flour stems and leaves it was with a large fillet of mullet followed by a gateaux of rabbit saddle that savories would conclude, and transitioning swiftly to dessert with “Coconut and Passion” the only dissatisfying course of the afternoon was brought forward, though certainly not a fault of the chef but one of personal preference.

Getting back into good graces with funky cubes of cheesecake and fragrant dollops of meringue around a centerpiece of raspberry sorbet it was once again the briny flavor off olives that served to mellow vanilla ice cream and tuilles of dark chocolate as the menu reached its climax, the mignardises all well crafted with something to offer as opposed to just being something pretty to look at.

Presented with a wax-sealed menu alongside the bill, another kitchen visit insisted upon by the staff so that the Chef could bid me farewell, it is the little touches like this that go above and beyond both concept and creativity to make Azurmendi one of the finest dining experiences in the world.

www.azurmendi.biz/

Posted in Azurmendi, Bilbao, Bread Basket, Cornbread, Crab, Dessert, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, Larrabetzu, Lobster, Macaroon, Pork, Spain, Tasting Menu, Truffle, Vacation

November 28, 2015
11:03 AM
by: Uhockey

Artagan Pasteleria, Bilbao ES

Artagan Pasteleria

Crackling Sugar Palmier

Crackling Sugar Persian

Cream Bun

Bilbainitio

Baba Au Citrus

Pastel Crema

Located at Avenida Zumalacarregui 105, a small side street just a couple hundred meters from The Basilica of Begona, Artagan was the second Pasteleria visited on my final day in Bilbao, and part of a small chain much like Arrese before it the small store opened in 1966 showed off a wide selection of Basque cookies, cakes, and candies plus several pastries given their own unique twist.

Another Spanish-only store, though this time compounded by a lack of both labels and prices, those visiting Artagnan are advised to peruse the wares closely from one end to the other before making a selection, each of six cases offering several items ranging from petit four size to customized cakes made for celebrations.

Perhaps best known for their smiling signature truffle, the €1.50 Bilbainitio found at several stores throughout the region, suffice it to say that aside from the design there is little worth getting excited over in the milk chocolate filled orb, but moving onward to bigger and better the results no doubt improve substantially, the cream-filled donut again proving an exception to the rule and barely much better than a breadstick with a thin layer of lightly sweet fluff.

Acknowledging that this may be the last time in awhile that I’d have to enjoy a Pastel Crema it was with good fortune that the version at Artagan was so fresh that warmth coursed through the still-jiggling custard core and moving onward to the small cake vaguely resembling a Rhum Baba spirits were further raised by a moist sponge soaked in sweet liquor not dissimilar from Limoncello.

Figuring it only fair to compare Arrese and Artagnan item-for-item to round out the morning it was with a Palmier and Persian that the tasting would end and presenting the very best outcome with a true split-decision the only real question being “how good are your teeth” as these versions were topped with a shattering layer of sugar, each bite sending shards drifting skyward and definitely not something to be eaten in the car.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Pastelerias-Artagan/

Posted in Artagan, Artagan Pasteleria, Bilbao, Breakfast, Dessert, Food, Spain, Vacation

November 28, 2015
9:10 AM
by: Uhockey

Pasteleria Arrese, Bilbao ES

Pasteleria Arrese

Chocolate and Vanilla Truffles

Persian

Palmier el Caramelo

Pastel Crema with Citrus Meringue and Chocolate Shell

Cream Pastry

Basque Tart

Pine Nut and Citrus Tart

Located on the pedestrian only Gran Via with an opening hour of 09h00 in the same space it has occupied since 1852, Arrese is widely considered to be the “grand-dame” of Basque Pasteleria and arriving just as metal shutters were lifted the store itself certainly did resemble something withstanding the test of time while the baked goods were themselves hit-and miss.

Now one of several outlets, their boxed chocolates and nougat available even in gift stores at BIO, it was admittedly with some surprise that my early morning arrival was met by Spanish only service, but trying as I might to limit the selection to just a few items it was not long before six pastries were boxed and bagged along with several chocolates intended for myself as well as gifts for others.

Really no different than most in terms of the offerings, several familiar shapes of baked goods and cakes presented alongside cookies in a dazzling array of colors it was with mild weather finally present that seating was found at a bench bordering the brick road and beginning lightly with a cream donut the sweetness was quite limited, the same to be said of a small Gateau Basque that was either overcooked or a day-old with custard that had become gelatinous and hardened.

Improving with a Pastel Crema featuring a crown far shorter than that at Suiza it was with the chocolate shell peeled away that attention was turned to the most unique pastry of the group and with a light orange core not unlike that of a Carballon the layer of pine nuts offered unique flavors of buttered toast atop the bold citrus, each bite compelling me to take another.

Deciding at this point to taste the truffles, both sugar dusted confections featuring a thin outer shell over a core that was creamy and smooth, it was finally in two crispy concoctions that Arrese tasting did culminate, the Persian reference standard with a buttercream center while the Palmier was far too sweet for for solo indulgence beneath a quarter-inch thick shellac of caramelized sugar.

http://www.arrese.biz/

Posted in Bilbao, Bread Basket, Breakfast, Dessert, Food, Pasteleria Arrese, Spain, Vacation

November 27, 2015
8:15 PM
by: Uhockey

Elkano, Getaria ES

Elkano

Txomin Etxaniz 2014

House Bread and Oil

Poached Octopus, Grapefruit

Barnacles Steamed

Barnacles Grilled

Kokotxas – tongue and pendulum of Hake, grilled

Grandma’s Fish Soup – 100 year recipe

Grilled Turbot – 1kg

Rice Pudding

Torrijas with Milk Foam, yolk, vanilla bourbon ice cream

Honey Cake, Chocolate Cereal and Nuts

Located in the small seaside town of Getaria, just under a half-hour from San Sebastian by car, Michelin Starred Elkano looks not unlike many other restaurants throughout the Basque region but gaining substantial acclaim thanks to Grilled fish including the world renowned Turbot there is little doubt that there is something special setting this place apart.

Owned and operated by the same family for generations, the Maitre D’ citing a 100+ year old recipe as the source of a fish soup that tastes of brine and roasted bones with a richness rarely seen in a broth lacking cream, those fortunate enough to secure a seat are treated to a menu of classics based only on the quality of source and the lightest of seasoning and manipulation, most of the fish and meats only offered steamed or roasted over hot outdoor coals.

Sourcing everything as locally as possible, the olive oil pressed specifically for the restaurant while bread is brought in from a bakery just down the street it was at my hosts recommendation that wine from a 35 hectare local vineyard was selected, its dryness surprisingly fruit forward and a beautiful pairing to almost any form of seafood.

Old fashioned in décor, the stone floors and netted drapes adding age to a room where lighting at night is romantic bordering on dim, it was only after discussing portion sizes at length that a makeshift ‘tasting’ was created by the kitchen, an opening volley of octopus muscular yet tender alongside bitter citrus while barnacles in two preparations were offered in followup, the steamed versions plump and juicy while larger mussels were grilled with a rich smokiness amidst textures that trended more meaty, though not at all ‘tough.’

Insisting that no meal at Elkano would be complete without at least tasting the Kokotxas it was to a single grilled gullet that I was next treated and although more elaborately prepared versions had already been tasted at Michelin 3* establishments it would be hard to say any were more flavorful than this ‘simple’ version, the followup fish soup every bit as good as previously stated.

Offering a brief tour of the kitchen, holding tanks of live fish, and spacious cellar as the 1.04kg Turbot was finished on the grill it was with an elaborate tableside presentation that the faintly charred fish was deboned ad plated, “light” separated from “dark” with encouragement to dissect the head and suck the bones clean, the flavors and textures truly dynamic with some tastes gelatinous and fishy while others arrived smoky, moist, and lean.

No doubt a bit full as the clock ticked past 21h30 and still over an hour from the hotel there was admittedly brief contemplation of forgoing dessert before the options were presented, one glance casting aside such nonsense and instead seeing an order of not just warm rice pudding, but toasted brioche rich with egg yolk beneath elegant milk foam and boozy housemade ice cream as well.

http://www.restauranteelkano.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Bread Pudding, Dessert, Elkano, Food, French Toast, Getaria, Ice Cream, Octopus, San Sebastian, Spain, Vacation

November 27, 2015
6:13 PM
by: Uhockey

Hogar Dulce Hogar, San Sebastian ES

Hogar Dulce Hogar

Pelayo

Rosquillas

Pastel Valesco

Fruit Ring

Cream Bun

Persian

Celebrating a temporary break in the rain by visiting Mount Igueldo and the San Sebastian Aquarium it was with weather again turning stormy that shelter was sought at Hogar Dulce Hogar and with the small dining room packed as the heavens once again burst forth the experience was mostly a good one, a half dozen pastries selected to enjoy at a table with free WiFi with only the dried out fruit ring found to lack.

Loosely translated as “Home Sweet Home,” the interior cozy with service capable of understanding English though somewhat limited in their ability to explain the goods, it was just prior to 18h00 that I arrived to the bustling cafe and although only a fraction of items were listed in terms of names or prices it was largely a matter of experience that guided my order, a few items plated for now with the rest photographed and rebagged for later.

Obviously no longer warm given the time of arrival, most of the items likely sitting on shelves since the bakery opened midday, it was first in bites of an item labeled as “Pelayo” that my palate was entrusted, the almond-crusted cake something like a Pastel Crema fortified with frangipane while the more traditional Pastel Valesco was itself topped in nuts, the interior just short of ‘set’ and eggy with restrained sweetness.

Already mentioning the fruit ring, a laminated ‘donut’ that may have been good when fresh but clearly here suffering from time left uncovered behind glass, a far better flavor was found in the cinnamon-sugar dusted Rosquillas, the texture not unlike that of a churro with a light crunch to the outside giving way to a wispy open crumb.

Relatively straight forward with the cream bun, the dough itself light while insides were more “custard” than the those found elsewhere in Spain, it was finally with a crispy Persian that the tasting concluded and with a similar vanilla texture sandwiched between flaky layers of puff pastry the results were by far the best version of the item found throughout my Basque visit – potentially the best pastry sampled in all of San Sebastian.

http://hdulcehogar.com/

Posted in Dessert, Food, Hogar Dulce Hogar, San Sebastian, Spain, Vacation

November 27, 2015
1:12 PM
by: Uhockey

Mugaritz, Errenteria ES

Mugaritz

Trico 2012

Ferments – Sweet Rice with no sugar

Comb and Coral Biscuit – cockscomb, spider crab

Tiger Nuts with Caviar – frozen daikon, osetra

Red Cardoon – white garlic, herbs

Steaming Empandila – laurel, iberian pork fat

Stew of Crunchy Suckling Pig, Wild Sorrel – pigtail

Walnut Omelette – egg, grain

Squash and Coffee Treacle – pumpkin, columbia

Live Cannelone – sprouted chia, lobster ceviche

A Handful of Highland Grass – cream of hazelnut, garlic, ethiopia cereal grain

Chestnut, Truffle, and Garlic – creamy, fried, white truffles

Clams and Pigeon – royale, grilled fern

Baby Eels and Textures of Meat – tartare

Hake Textures – gelatin, clam veil

Bovis Maxima: Vive la France! – beef cracker, bone marrow butter, demiglace

Sea Anemone and Vegetable Touch – tempura

Grilled Fish and Beef Essence – grouper, beef fat, green peppers

Glazed Mille Feuille of Lamb – shiso leaf

Beef Candy – onion, red wine

Beef and Chicories – pepper, salt

The Cheese – 3, 6, 12

Whiskey Pie – apple, vanilla ice cream

Grape and Brioche – bread ice cream, grape juice, frozen

Jasmine and Hay – mochi

Peanut Shortbread – sugar glass, rosemary

Seven Deadly Sins – envy, pride, wrath, gluttony, greed, lust, sloth

Americano

Heralded by some as the most experimental kitchen in the world even before Ferran Adria converted El Bulli into a “foundation,” it was midday Black Friday that the GPS led me up a mountain spiraling to Chef Andoni Luis Aduriz’s Mugaritz and although much has been made of the restaurant’s astronomic ascent on “Best of” lists since its 1998 opening no number of photos or blog posts can do the experience of eating there justice largely because an “experience” is exactly what it is.

Featuring no set menu, each diner instead served approximately two-dozen of over one hundred items reinvented yearly for use throughout the upcoming seasons with changes made on-the-fly as new ideas evolve, Mugaritz resides in a small wooden building amidst the stunning Errenteria hillside and with the space rebuilt after a fire in 2010 it can only be said that the rustic exterior in no way conveys that which is found within.

Greeted warmly in the foyer where a few books detailing Aduriz’s career and recipes are presented alongside objects of Modern Art it was minutes before the 13h00 reservation that I was led to a table big enough for four and seated with a great vantage of the room a glass of wine was ordered before a brief tour of the kitchen, no less than thirty sous and stages working in silence on individual plates with a bite of fermented rice presented to whet my appetite, not one drop of sugar used but the flavor like that of candy amidst soft grains that separated and melted in the mouth.

Asked of preferences, allergies, and discretions before starting a marathon of sprints, never more than five minutes separating one course from the next, those looking for some sort of congruent “tasting” will likely find Mugaritz a bit disappointing as the experience is much more a stream of consciousness event, opening bites of a crispy cock’s comb lent levity by creamed spidercrab and its roe while three bites to follow explored concepts of vegetation and textures, the first melting slowly beneath a hefty dollop of caviar while the golden pocket used added pork fat as a mechanism to carry gentle floral notes aloft.

Filling a crispy pigtail with stewed pork before presenting a buttery-meets-bitter cloud of eggs and wedge of pumpkin brushed with coffee that oddly harkened the flavors of Tiramisu, it was with course nine that presentations reached next-level status, the sprouted chia stuffed with sweet ceviche given a sense of movement by nothing more than the air circulating the dining room with a silky mouthfeel that was nothing like the structure would suggest.

Chasing the furry looking lobster with ancient grains and green sprouts around rich nut butter made more poignant by garlic it was leading into the menu’s midpoint that three stunning courses were presented in rapid succession, the chestnut pudding offering an exploration of texture beneath a bouquet of white truffles while the creamed mousse of bird atop clam and slippery eels with raw beef were no less brilliant, each admittedly quite rich but present in just the right portion.

Continuing to contemplate individual ingredients and their flexibility of flavor depending on preparation with gelatinous Hake throat over a firm fillet and then in the Bovis Maxima that was “only wafer thin” but ate like a whole porterhouse, it was a first experience with Sea Anemone that highlighted plate sixteen and although texturally something akin to phlegm even after a trip to the fryer the flavor not unlike urchin was itself quite pleasant.

Returning to something more traditional with a generous slice of grouper in a beefy cream sauce followed by crisp lamb skin alternatively layered with thin cuts of loin it was a bovine gummy tasting like the richest of demi-glaces that set up the meal’s final savory and although perhaps not as intriguing as those items preceding there is no doubt the rectangle of Wagyu was melt-in-the-mouth tender and, once again, just enough to satisfy without being too much.

Telling a story of time and culture with local cheeses aged 3, 6, and 12 months – all from the same cow – desserts began with a boozy piece of semi-freddo ‘leather’ overlying apples and vanilla ice cream, the following quenelle of buttery brioche flavor subtle and elegant amidst grape pulp, granita, and juice.

Serving two mignardises as the meal marched past two hours, the mochi a bit too floral while the herbal brittle was as beautiful as it was complex, it was with an Americano of shade grown Colombian beans in hand that the tall wooden puzzle-box was delivered, each layer save for “greed” containing chocolate placed in the context of a sin, wrath represented with firey top notes while gluttony offered nearly fifty chocolate covered biscuits, the base of Sloth a dense pentagram that was more than enough to share or save for later.

Presented with a customized menu on exit, another invitation to the kitchen showing half the team to be scrubbing down while others began preparations for a seating only five hours away it was briefly that I debated inquiring about a second reservation to try another twenty-plus creations later that evening, my only hesitation being a reservation at Elkano plus the possibility of diminishing returns spoiling a truly magical afternoon.

http://www.mugaritz.com/

Posted in Coffee, Crab, Dessert, Errenteria, Food, Ice Cream, Lobster, Mugaritz, Pork, San Sebastian, Spain, Tasting Menu, Truffle, Vacation

November 27, 2015
10:37 AM
by: Uhockey

Sanwicoffee, Bilbao ES

Sanwicoffee

Iberico Queso Torta

Apple Cake

Pastel Valesco

Torilljas with Vanilla Ice Cream and Caramel

Located steps from the Museo de Bellas Artes de Bilbao and seemingly a popular place for business persons and those on-the-run, a brief stop at Sanwicoffee was hoped to be just as good as that at Panko the day before, but offering little in the way of environment or customer service the experience was mostly forgettable while the food was mostly the same.

Almost “chain-like” in its design, though unlikely following any such model considering the lack of smiles and impossibly slow expediting process, Sanwicoffee offers a few mundane pintxos along with breakfast pastries, sandwiches, salads, plus a few kitchen plates and opting mostly for the former plus one postre the €13.50 total seemed excessive compared to other similar spaces while execution lagged behind.

Starting with a torta that was lighter than many but marred by potatoes that were still too starchy around a pocket of ham and cheese, red flags were raised further by a roll that was undoubtedly at least a day old, not to mention the cream cake with a center so overcooked and undersweet that it may as well have been a hard boiled egg.

Showing signs of life with an apple cake that somehow managed the tricky task of being toothsome yet exceedingly most beneath caramel soaked fruit it was with warm Torrejas that the meal was finished, the whole process completed behind the counter in a convection oven with bread no better than store bought and results about as good as one might expect, all things considered.

http://www.sanwicoffee.es/

Posted in Bilbao, Bread Basket, Breakfast, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Ice Cream, Pork, Sanwicoffee, Spain, Vacation

November 27, 2015
7:32 AM
by: Uhockey

Kikarea Coffee & Bakery, Bilbao ES

Kikarea

Red Velvet Cake

Carrot Cake

Scone

Cheesecake Brownie

Milk Cake

Peanut Butter Cookie

Chocolate Crispy with White Chocolate Chips

Always interested to see Europeans interpret traditional American desserts it was early Friday morning that a stop was made at Kikarea and although using far less sugar than typically found stateside the results were generally quite excellent, a few pastries neither Spanish nor particularly American the lone exceptions to the rule.

Located on Perez Galdos, a narrow road with limited parking necessitating most to find another area nearby, entry to Kikarea sees a small bar lined with pastries to up front with homey seating at the right and resembling something one might see in Brooklyn or PDX the shabby-chic setting is bolstered by bookshelves lined with paperbacks, black and white photos joining refurbished antique mirrors on the walls.

Pleasant and multilingual in service, one young man at the counter gathering baked goods and playing barrista while a small kitchen worked with fervor behind the scenes, prices at Kikarea trend significantly lower than those back home and trading just €12.50 for a total of seven sizable items it was with great care that each was boxed or bagged.

Taking the lot to go, a later start than anticipated caused by the general lack of Diesel in the city of Bilbao, it was in an attempt to go from light to heavy that guided the degustation, first bites of the milk cake proving buttery and only lightly sweetened, the scone that followed unfortunately so dry the center was essentially flour and baking soda – one bite was taken before the rest was left to the birds.

Improving substantially with two cookies, the crisp shatter of the chocolate version’s rim yielding a soft center studded with white chocolate chips, both cake slices proved equally well executed as up-front flavors danced amidst a moist crumb and light layers of cream cheese frosting, the Red Velvet featuring a whole lot of cocoa but nowhere near as much as an over-the-top brownie that must have weighed almost half a pound.

http://www.kikarea.com/

Posted in Bilbao, Bread Basket, Breakfast, Dessert, Food, Kikarea, Kikarea Coffee & Bakery, Spain, Vacation

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Artagan Pasteleria, Bilbao ES

Pasteleria Arrese, Bilbao ES

Elkano, Getaria ES

Hogar Dulce Hogar, San Sebastian ES

Mugaritz, Errenteria ES

Sanwicoffee, Bilbao ES

Kikarea Coffee & Bakery, Bilbao ES

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