Located in an International Shopping Center on Spring Mountain, one of those places where one can invest in any number of statues or costumes mass produced overseas while also culling a few ornate originals from actual artisans, it was on the advice of a local restauranteur that a stop was made to Diamond Bakery and although not the cheapest spot in town for traditional Chinese pastry the results far outstripped the majority while service, too, proved far more devout.
Large in size and far less cluttered than most, the pastry case to the left with bagged goods on the right, the selection at Diamond rivals the layout with no less than sixty different options on offer, a notable lack of overlap in ingredients with selections reportedly changing day to day.
Based out of California, but offering several hot items and cakes baked on site, it was after much browsing and several questions that an order was elected and with eight items bagged to enjoy at a table outside the $20.33 tab was comprised almost 1/3 by the ornate moon cake, the dense red bean paste just barely sweetened around the hard cooked egg yolk while two styles of egg tarts were each equally low on sugar, instead opting to let the buttery shell and more savory custard notes shine.
Moving on to bread pudding, a dish that simply cannot be passed up wherever it might be found, suffice it to say that the raisin-studded block was a bit too cool to be enjoyed straight from the cooler, and even when warmed up later neither the texture nor flavor was particularly up to snuff.
Put off by the bitterness of date paste that was unfortunately rendered a bit gritty by too much ground walnut amidst the fruit, the goods once again found footing in a trio of supple breads, the ‘black egg’ version a truly one-of-a-kind flavor marrying sweetness to funkiness and soy sauce while both the yam bun and “3-combo” featured all sorts of fluffiness with a variety of natural flavors packing the core.
THREE AND A AHALF STARS: Certainly not the sort of place channeling America’s Sweet Tooth with its work, Diamond Bakery is the sort of place where an interest in less typical flavors is rewarded, the customer service amongst the best of its kind in town.
RECOMMENDED: Egg Custards, Moon Cakes, 3-Combo.
AVOID: Bread Pudding, Date Paste Walnut Bar.
TIP: Bakery selections vary day-to-day and more popular items are frequent to sell out by noon, particularly on weekends, per staff.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Rice Cracker with Hamachi, Hearts of Palm, Baby Radishes, Avocado, Tangerine, Honey Citrus Vinaigrette
Le Crabe – Blue Crab Shell, Green Apple, Russian Osetra Caviar, Salmon Roe, Dungeness Crab
Le Foie Gras – Sauteed Foie Gras, Sweet George Peaches, Corisca Herbs
Le Saint Pierre – John Dory, Candied Rhubarb, Warm Eggplant Salad, Eggplant Brulee, Saffron Sauce with Coriander
Le Caille – Gold Crusted Quail, Farci au Foie Gras and Truffles, Barley Corn Risotto, Black Truffle Pan Jus, Parmesan Cheese
Le Pre-Dessert – Watermelon Granita, Pickled Cucumber Mousse
Le Gateau au Fromage Mascarpone – Mascarpone Cheese and Beet Red Velvet Cake, Verjus Grapes. Candied Beets, Balsamic Ice Cream
Mignardises
Twice visited already under the toque of 28 year old Wilfried Bergerhausen and undoubtedly the first Las Vegas restaurant to incite a ‘wow’ way back in 2008, it was after being unequivocally being made to feel unwelcome at Picasso by Chef Julien Serrano that I sat down at the semi-circular bar at Le Cirque, GM Ivo Angelov making an already memorable night even better by sending out six courses from the restaurant’s Menu Prestige, each one entirely delicious with plating equally deserving of applause.
Not particularly hungry, a four-course feast at PRIME just an hour in the past, it was largely a matter of an ‘offer too good to refuse’ and Ivo’s genuine hospitality that saw myself and a friend delve into tiny rice crackers served atop a pure glass log, the flavors of Yellowtail finding subtle nuance from tangerines and vinaigrette while the addition of hearts of palm and radish kept sweeter notes in check.
Unsure of what would roll out from the kitchen as the newly launched menu was as yet unseen, round two featured the sort of decadence formerly reserved for the refined environs of Joel Robuchon with freshly picked Dungeness proving perfect and sweet beneath a briny blanket of Osetra Caviar and lightly sweetened apple gelee.
Admitting an affinity for foie gras, a nicely seared slice just enjoyed with rhubarb at the steakhouse a floor beneath, plate three proved every bit as exquisite with Bergerhausen opting to saute the liver before topping it in supple Georgia peaches and fresh herbs from Corsica, the flavors all melding beneath a lightly acidic stone fruit gastrique.
At this point becoming ever more convinced that Wilfried may be the best young Chef in Las Vegas while Ivo’s conversation about years serving some of Sin City’s most well-heeled elite were even more interesting than most would likely chance to guess, it was to St. Pierre that my now-party-of-one was treated and with crispy scales adherent to supple flesh the flavors on the plate were even more inspired than the textures, a bright sauce of coriander marvelous alongside rhubarb cooked in Grenadine with petite torched eggplant coming across surprisingly sweet.
Not assuming anything more decadent than the crab could be served it was with the final savory of the evening that the kitchen decided to redefine going ‘over the top,’ and with a corn, barley, and risotto base rich with butter a breast of quail stuffed with truffles and duck liver was presented, the literal gold gilding no doubt an unnecessary accoutrement but one that here seemed quite apropos.
Left to my choice of desserts, a whole new lineup aside from the classic crème brulee and pair of seasonal souffles, the meal wrapped with a summertime special placing watermelon beneath cucumber and transitioning to something a bit more ‘rich’ one should not be fooled by the thick white layer atop the moist oxblood base as each bite was, in reality, exceedingly light with the candied beets offering just a touch of texture while the balsamic ice cream played brilliantly off of the cocoa tones and residual sweetness of grapes.
FIVE STARS: Having dined at Guy Savoy just one day prior, and finding the food there delicious while the room and service were just a bit to serious to be fun, dining at the bar in Le Cirque was a perfect study of contrasts – the food every bit as excellent while the experience itself left me planning a very prompt return.
RECOMMENDED: Le Caille, Le Crabe, Le Gateau au Fromage Mascarpone.
AVOID: Eating a 4-course meal beforehand.
TIP: The new Menu Prestige runs $350 and diners should allow 3-hours to enjoy.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Walt 2012 Pinot Noir Blue Jay Anderson Valley / Barbieri Syrah 2011 Colson Canyon Vineyard
Warm Valrhona Chocolate Cake – Vanilla Ice Cream
Coconut Souffle – White Chocolate Feuilletine & Dark Chocolate Sorbet
Yuzu Pudding Cake – Toasted Almond Sorbet
Prime Cinnamon Bread Pudding – Salted Caramel Ice Cream, Golden Delicious Apples
Double Espresso on Ice
Soon to renovate the outdoor patio, but carrying over a room thought to be one of the most gorgeous in the world, PRIME Steakhouse at Bellagio had long been on a list of fine dining experiences yet to be enjoyed in Las Vegas, an admitted mistake and given the quality of the cuisine, service, and setting, perhaps even a sin.
Toqued by Rob Moore, whose brief departure to open JG Steakhouse at Aria has seen it too grow into a place held in high regard, it was at a two-top big enough for four that my friend and I were seated, the Bellagio water show visible through large windows to the right while the draped dining room decorated in fine art soon filled to capacity at our left.
Served by a team of at least six, Sommelier John Burke entertaining us with stories from Steve Wynn’s reign as well as those of bottles sold in excess of $60K, it was in a four course meal that two-hours was spent talking, the ingredient sourcing, portions, and preparations all justifying prices that may turn many diners away.
Far more classical than Carnevino or Ramsay and certainly more elegant than Delmonico or CUT, the evening began with bubbles alongside a basket of bread and making quick work of salty pretzel batons as well as a nutty raisin loaf it would not be long before a starter of seared foie gras was presented, the acidic sauce of rhubarb perhaps the most interesting steakhouse pairing seen to this moment while shaved almonds worked wonders to meld flavors of fruit to the unctuous liver of duck.
Told that soups and salads at PRIME are far more fanciful that the typical broth or wedge, round two consisted of heirloom tomatoes dressed in milky burrata atop vinegar splashed arugula plus a truly inspired bowl of French Onion, the blend of cheeses lightly toasted atop a crispy brioche float while the potage beneath was beefy enough to be noticed, though the bulk of the flavor came from the caramelized namesake ingredient itself.
No doubt a place with more than just beef to offer, though the options for steaks are plentiful without going overboard on information about sourcing from several different farms, it was in the 18oz Dry Aged Bone-In Rib Eye cooked medium rare that $71 was invested, the quality of the product allowed to show for itself while the menu’s cheapest protein shined even more brightly, the pounded half-chicken fried textbook crisp beneath a Parmesan crust as sides and sauces each proved every bit as compelling, the Soy Rice Wine and Comte Potatoes each well deserving of their server-suggested clout.
Unable to resist desserts, the menu’s only service error occurring when Jean-Georges’ signature molten cake was served in place of the souffle selection of the trio, suffice it to say that as good as each item was there is no doubt that those with an eye for the dramatic will be wowed by cinnamon bread pudding, the tableside saucing seeing a dome of cocoa melted into the custard soaked base as notes sweet, spiced, and salty all dance in the mouth.
FOUR STARS: Trending a bit more pricey than other Steakhouses on the Strip, and somewhat limited by offering only two breeds of beef with fish and seafood not really venturing too far outside the box, PRIME is undoubtedly a place worth visiting for those looking for a ‘fine dining steakhouse,’ particularly those averse to loud music or looking for a more romantic night out.
RECOMMENDED: Parmesan Chicken, Prime Cinnamon Bread Pudding, Gratin Dauphinois, Prime Onion Soup.
AVOID: The Molten Chocolate Cake was overcooked (and unordered) with the center already set while the Rib Eye was nothing a good grill man couldn’t have done with a good piece of beef.
TIP: Soon to be redoing the outdoor patio and bar to offer better fountain views and a more casual experience for solo diners, those interested in renderings are encouraged to visit the bottom of the stairs between Picasso and PRIME.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Founded by the Bromberg Brothers and featuring the duo’s first foray into the ‘burbs, Blue Ribbon Fried Chicken arrived in Downtown Summerlin by way of New York earlier this summer and although the quick casual concept has been questioned for high prices as well as uneven cooking ever since opening it was with a friend and his child that I sat down for lunch on Saturday, almost every off-putting rumor soon confirmed.
Nicely lit and well adorned with amenities including motion sensing trash compactors, LCD televisions, housemade sauces, plus a fountain featuring artisan sodas from Boylan’s, a visit to Blue Ribbon begins at a counter with smiling servers – the dining decisions largely sandwiches, combos, and sides with additional options for shakes or salads, plus single tenders, wings, or thighs.
Taking note of a few specials, the August-only “Smorgasbird” with a portion of the proceeds benefiting Multiple Sclerosis offered in addition to perplexingly priced hush puppies – $3.75 for a half-dozen or $7.95 for ten – it was after some perusal that an order soon completed, the fifteen minute wait with one of those vibrating flashy buzzers spent sitting in one of several unpadded booths.
Certainly not a cheap meal, the total before tax and tip north of $55 for what would prove less than enough to sate a family of four were it not for the three excellent pieces of egg bread wrapped around the charitable sandwich, it was largely a matter of principle that the Smorgasbird was ordered and with two boneless cutlets spiced quite unlike the Bromberg chicken at Blue Ribbon or Brooklyn Bowl suffice it to say that each piece was almost too dry on its own to be enjoyable, the better bites found in barbequed bits serve atop cheesy fries tinged in peppers while anemic looking tomatoes made one question sourcing during the ingredients peak time of year.
Finding the tenders to be as oddly spiced and devoid of moisture as the cutlets while wings at least maintained their texture thanks to the presence of a bone, it was onward to sides that the meal progressed and although the hushpuppies were each quite small the flavors of sweet corn were thankfully prominent, the same not to be said of soft collards barely bolstered by pork let alone the ‘adobo corn’ which certainly would have benefited greatly from some salt.
At this point seeing the emperor for his lack of clothes while wondering why the duo opts to change their chicken at each venue when the original version is the one that earned them such acclaim, it was in a trio of shakes that the meal concluded and although none were particularly innovative each was clearly crafted of good ice cream, the vanilla trending a bit thin and mellow while the Nutella and caramel were decidedly sweet and thick enough to stick a spoon up straight.
TWO STARS: Overpriced and overseasoned with little more than a ‘name’ to justify the hype Blue Ribbon Fried Chicken joins the likes of most of Downtown Summerlin’s imported eateries, a situation that makes one wonder just how long the public will continue to bite.
RECOMMENDED: Hush Puppies, Nutella Shake.
AVOID: Chicken Tenders, Adobo Corn, Collards.
TIP: Located on the North side of the street from Wolfgang Puck, best parking is found in the Ethan Allen/Andiron Lot as street parking directly in front of Blue Ribbon is limited to only a few spaces.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Chocolate Peanut Butter Cup Cupcake and Pecan Cupcake
Maple Bacon Cupcake
Banana Cream Caramel Cupcake
Caramel Shortbread Truffle
Cookies and Cream Macaron, Creamsicle Macaron, Salty Caramel Cream Macaron
Carrot Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting
Banana Brigade Cake
Peanut Butter Jelly Thumbprint
Mexican Wedding Cookie
7-Layer Bar
Turtle Cheesecake
Owned by Tiffany Jones and inspired by a childhood of baking intended to please her own personal tastes with skills honed at California Culinary Academy and some of the best properties on the Strip, it was largely a matter of location that had kept me from revisiting Peridot Sweets for so long but a recent encounter with Mrs. Jones over pizza proved plenty an impetus to point the GPS south, the young lady’s work having reached new degrees of refinement with cookies, cakes, and confections all trumping any West-side bakeshop, several selections proving the best in the Valley as a whole.
Carefully trending ‘cutesy’ without going all-in like Wonderland or other commercial outfits throughout the (702,) Peridot Sweets features a small cooler-case up front alongside a couch and cafe with the prep kitchen tucked away in back, and greeted by Tiffany on entry the entirety of an order consisted of nine items, another eight sampled the previous week with not a single one failing to set high standards for texture as well as taste.
Assured in her skill-set with recipes based on education, experience, as well as good ol’ trial and error the inspiration behind Peridot Sweets came from the owner’s desire to leave behind Las Vegas Boulevard’s long hours in order to start a family, and with much of the business based on elegant event cakes those looking to experience the shop’s signature bites are strongly encouraged to begin with any of the scratch-baked cupcakes, the cocoa-laden red velvet far less dainty than the majority while both a banana-caramel composition and maple stuffed with bacon prove even more robust.
Having admittedly perused the website in order to make a few requests it was in two stacked cakes that taste buds were additionally invested and as much as the carrot cake sang with savory notes and spice beneath the lightest of cream cheese frostings it was the “Banana Brigade” that proved the very best of Peridot’s creations, the same supple banana bread as that from the cupcake given a baba au rhum treatment with cream cheese frosting and caramelized bananas adding levity, though certainly not enough to render the booze mute or particularly ‘kid friendly.’
Stating that cheesecakes were another item she loved to create, suffice it to say that Tiffany’s silky smooth version trends far closer to her ethereal cream cheese frosting than any heavy New York slice, and whether topped with fresh berries or a thick lacquer of chocolate and caramel the results are equally enthralling, a buttery rich crust more than capable of standing up to the moisture both here and in the case of a tangy lemon petit four sampled just one week prior.
Also offering cookies, bars, brownies, and fanciful macarons in a variety of flavors that change with the the Chef and her team’s whims, one would be hard pressed to find fault in anything except perhaps the confusing colors, both the ‘cookies and cream’ and ‘salty caramel’ oddly tinged in blue while creamsicle trended more appropriate, the tastes absolutely spot on with textures improved by room-temperature serving, the “7-Layer Bar” an entirely sinful amalgam of sweetness reined in by coconut while both the Mexican Wedding cookie reminisced of the Russian Tea Balls of Christmas during childhood.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Easily overlooked or dismissed as a ‘cake bakery’ in a city where Freed’s has far too long held sovereignty Peridot Sweets is putting on a mighty fine showing in the West Side of the Valley, what it lacks in quantity more than compensated for by an investment in quality.
RECOMMENDED: The Cheesecake is reference standard for those preferring something less dense than the style popularized by Junior’s in Brooklyn while the Banana Brigade is one of the city’s top three cakes with the carrot version not far behind.
AVOID: The Peanut Butter Thumbprint was a touch dry once you got past the jammy filling and the macarons warrant time to warm up before serving.
TIP: Closed on Mondays but offering a full catalog of cakes and treats to choose from online or in-store otherwise, those looking for a quote are encouraged to check out the website and contact the store directly.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Petit Dejeuner Francais – Croissant, Toasted WholeGrain Bread, House Made Strawberry and Blackberry Jam, French Butter, Coffee
Almond Croissant
Raisin Snail
Pain au Chocolat
Pistachio, Coffee, Vanilla Macaron
Chocolate Dipped Madeline
Chocolate Chip Cookie and Macadamia Nut Cookie
Recently opened on South Rainbow under the creative direction of Jonathan Pluvinet, Rosallie ‘Le French Cafe’ quickly caught my eye as a destination for breakfast and with standards recently bolstered by a trip to the chef’s homeland it was to cheerful service and pastries on par with those experienced throughout Lyon and central France that the casual cafe extended its greetings, another noteworthy entry to Las Vegas’ suddenly booming artisan pastry scene.
Large in size and homey in décor despite its location in a Spring Valley Shopping Center, Rosallie represents a work of passion from the baker whose family owns a similarly named restaurant back home, and with large windows bathing the space in natural light as a mellow soundtrack of female vocalists plays overhead the choice of tables versus a leather chair-clad library offers seating for those looking to tuck into a sandwich or salad as well as those looking to linger over coffee and a pastry while browsing the net via WiFi offered for free.
Unconcerned with prices when it comes to assessing a new restaurant featuring the sort of goods displayed atop Le French Cafe’s stone and granite counter it was with a few questions answered by a young woman behind the glass that a substantial order was hatched and electing for nearly 75% of the pastries and breads offered plus a cup of coffee the total tab of less than $30 was a veritable bargain, each item plated carefully or placed in a basket with bread sliced and toasted to order alongside creamy French butter and a duo of housemade jams.
No doubt a sight to behold, the dozen items overflowing a two-top onto the table where my computer was already in place, it was with the warm multigrain roll that tasting began and with a dense crumb similar to the pain au cereal served at Paris’ Ledoyen the craftsmanship was immediately evident, bites gilded with butter and jam undoubtedly amongst the city’s best while the croissant set a new local standard for quality, the flaky arcs giving way to yawning caverns of lamination – definitely not the sort of thing one should attempt to eat in a car not soon intended to be swept.
Sipping coffee that fares far better than the vast majority of that found in France, a traditional drip in my case though French Presses and flavored lattes plus espresso are available for those interested in such things, it was onward to the raisin lined snail that I progressed and unraveling the springy coil to find light custard notes juxtaposing the fruit the quality once again rivaled all but the very best overseas, a pain au chocolate a bit less filled than one might have expected in America, though true to its French roots in all the right ways.
Hoping to ‘save the best for last’ it was here that the sampling turned to cookies, and although both the chocolate chip and macadamia nut versions were too crisp for my liking the ingredient quality was certainly on point with a dough far less ‘sweet’ than many, the Madeline not really benefited by a chocolate dip as it was delicate and delicious all on its lonesome while the single bite macarons were crisp-gives-way-to-creamy perfection, a country mile better than those served by another Westside “French” Bakery who need not be named.
At this point with several half-items boxed for later it was finally in Pluvinet’s almond croissant that I sank my teeth, and with a pure almond filling layered inside the double baked viennoiserie the question of where to find a truly exemplary version of my favorite French pastry in Las Vegas was finally answered, the powdered sugar and flakes soon showering both table and pants with each bite every bit as impressive as the last.
FOUR STARS: Making a strong case for itself as the best traditional French Bakery in town despite only being two weeks old there is not a doubt in my mind that in due time Rosallie could become the Westside’s go-to cafe, the only thing holding them back at this point being a somewhat limited menu and the fact that nothing was still-warm on my arrival shortly after eight.
AVOID: Cookies were too crisp and given the fact that only one of each was left at 8:00am the cynical part of me almost wonders if I was sold hold-overs from the day before.
TIP: The whole menu, inclusive of sandwiches, salads, and quiche is available daily from 7a till 6p daily.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Wowed by a first visit to Guy Savoy at Caesars Palace when Franck Savoy was still the man in charge, the reasons for a delayed return to the Augustus Tower temple of gastronomy are largely related to too little time and too much travel, but invited last minute to sit down for a few a la carte items after a particularly trying two-months and past 24 hours the timing proved perfect, nearly every bite absolutely superlative under the toque of Chef Mathieu Chartron.
Still one of the most serene rooms in the city, the minimalist art and white walls a strange departure from the more elaborate decorations found at the Paris namesake though the divided rooms and well adorned lounge reminisce of the space along the Seine, it was with Champagne and three signature canapes that the experience started, the bread cart soon parked tableside with no less than a dozen options from which to choose.
Gilding supple loaves with smooth Echire butter that makes one regretful of times they have ever had to settle for less, it was with choices navigated that the night’s amuse arrived – the newly hatched item straight from Innovation-Inspiration Menu thrilling with a creamy croquette of octopus and quinoa served atop a glass dome as the flavors of eggplant, capers, tomatoes, and peppers each came across full and robust alongside a plancha-finished tentacle clearly benefited by a previous slow poach and showy ‘cold steam.’
Progressing to starters there was clearly a differing focus between mine and the whims of my tablemate, yet as delicious as the seared slice of foie gras that I received was in a verbena broth reined in by the flavors of red cabbage it was my friend’s salad that truly wowed both of us – the sizable bites of crustacean every bit as fresh as expected while the textural variations of vegetables and tapioca stabilized dressing were entirely enthralling, each bite offering something entirely different with the slightest bit of heat left to linger on each bite.
Having debated the Dover Sole, but opining for other things in assuming the whole fish a bit much for two, a surprise visit from Chef Chartron saw us gifted two tasting-sized portions of the delicately roasted flesh and taking a path infrequently traveled by presenting the fish with pickled vegetables plus the bold taste of balsamic an entirely different side of a classic was seen, the light buttery notes accentuated by the acid with just enough sweetness to offset a dusting of earthy mixed spice.
Finding service a bit more serious than one might have preferred, particularly as we were seated in a side room separated from the majority of those present in the main dining area, entrees arrived paired to a second round of bread and with portions quite substantial it was here that my selection proved superior to that of my dining partner, the tender quails losing some of their definition amidst sabayon served straight from an eggshell and mushroom stuffed vegetables that trended a touch too bitter while rosy duck breast was succulence studded in peanuts, the crispy confit and stack of beets with cheese no less divine.
Turning attention next to the cheese trolly, a somewhat limited selection that thankfully saw each option aged nicely along with honeycomb, blueberry confiture, and two additional varieties of bread it was with slow indulgence that a feature so rarely seen in Las Vegas was enjoyed and progressing to dessert with a long-lingering splash of Sauternes a second trolly was presented along with a pure-black plate entitled Noir, the dark chocolate fondant and sorbet dancing with a tinge of peppercorn while each of fifteen smaller sweets were as memorable as those from my first visit, the rice pudding perhaps the best in the city while the Vanilla Ice Cream rivals the best tasted to date.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: With world class ingredients and a Chef that continues to up the ante on top of a menu of classics that those unfamiliar are encouraged to experience if it is at all within their means, Guy Savoy remains one of Las Vegas’ top tables for those serious about fine dining, though overly serious service at times fails to replicate the ‘joie de vivre’ seen at the flagship overseas.
AVOID: Those turned off by bitterness would be advised to steer clear of the quails as Savoy’s kitchens have oft embraced such flavors, as noted by his famous foie gras preparation with ‘bitter infusion.’
TIP: Those interested in a truly intimate experience would be advised to peruse the Caesars’ Palace website as the Kitchen Table Krug Menu and cooking classes are both offered to those wanting a more immersive night out.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Located on South Jones, just off Spring Mountain at the center of Chinatown, L’Elysee Bakery had long been a spot of some intrigue, yet between the combination of frankly rude service, limited selection, and subpar goods it would be hard to fathom a reason to recommend the place to anyone when better exists just down the road.
More cramped than it appears from the outside, an effect of the layout which sees a kitchen tucked behind the counter and several semi-stocked wooden bins laid out on tables with shelves left and right, it was shortly after entering that a woman yelled ‘what you need?’ and explaining I needed to look around the words ‘no pictures’ were next shouted, a few already snapped but enough to make one wonder exactly what they’re trying to hide.
Eventually selecting eight items and taking them home for sampling, the total cost a mere $13.21, suffice it to say that in the phrase “you get what you pay for” is immediately applicable to L’Elysee’s products as opening bites of four buns showed spongy white bread not much different than that from Bunny or Wonder densely packed around minimal amounts of filling, the chocolate iteration tasting only faintly of cocoa with a texture slightly less doughy, but still far from ‘crispy.’
Thoroughly unimpressed by opening bites, the majority finding their way back to the bag and subsequently to the trash, it was onward to a pleasant pudding that offered a good balance of sweet and savory not unlike flan that I pressed and although the taro cake was far more dry than appearances would have suggested the follow-up tart was an unexpected winning bite, the shell reminiscing the buttery flavors of shortbread while the filling was essentially honey-soaked trail mix with salty peanuts helping prevent it from trending too sweet.
TWO STARS: Rude, and clearly more focused on branding their packaging and protecting their property against photography than the actual products on the shelves, there are simply better places to procure Asian pastries than L’Elysee.
RECOMMENDED: Egg Pudding, Honey Nuts and Raisin Tart.
AVOID: Buns are underfilled, Taro cake is dry and flavorless.
TIP: Several whole cakes and loaves of bread ranging from white to taro to cream cheese are offered for those seeking such things.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Ravioli Marinara – Cheese Ravioli with Fresh Tomato & Basil
Char Sui Pork Ribs
Custard Steamed Bun
Pork Sticky Rice Lotus Wrap
Shrimp Har Gow
Char Sui Pork Steamed Bun
Fried Pork and Shrimp Wontons
Fried Vegetable Spring Rolls
Char Sui Roasted Pork
Baked Egg Custard
Whole Steamed Striped Bass with Lemongrass
Salt & Pepper Fresh Squid with Garlic, Jalapeño & Green Onion
Cashew Chicken with Celery & Bell Pepper
Kung Pao Chicken with Bell Pepper, Onion & Peanuts
Fried Rice with Egg White & Dry Scallops
Yang Chow Fried Rice with Shrimp, BBQ Pork & Chicken
Beef Chow Fun with Gravy – Rice Noodles, Bean Sprouts, Choy Sum, Bell Pepper, Onion & Gravy
Mongolian Beef with Bamboo Shoots & Onion
Soy Sauce Chow Mein with Onion & Bean Sprouts
Steamed Choy Sum with Oyster Sauce
Banana Cream Pie
Reese’s Cheesecake
Apple Tart with Vanilla Ice Cream and Caramel
Warm Chocolate Chip Cookie with Chocolate Ice Cream
Croissant Bread Pudding with Vanilla Ice Cream and Bourbon Caramel Sauce
Likely one of the most saddened persons in Las Vegas when The Griddle Cafe at SLS suddenly shuttered, but impressed by Northside Cafe during a substantial breakfast just days after the switch, it was on the invite of SBE’s Director of Dining that myself and five friends sat down to experience the restaurant’s newly launched dinner and late night menus this past Saturday – a total of 32 plates showing a great degree of diversity with the majority far better than one would expect from 24/7 dining, though one specific section proved barely passable at best.
Admitting up front that the experience was fully comped, a few requests made of the kitchen while the vast majority of the items were served carte blanche, it was at a large booth in the far corner of the room that our party was sat and with IHeartRadio playing lightly overhead the meal was presented with exemplary service, first bites of shrimp atop popcorn perhaps a bit *too* clever for their own good while the stack of banana pancakes served a strong reminder of the high quality marking my aforementioned breakfast, the pure maple syrup presented steaming hot and drizzled liberally to our heart’s content.
Opting next to send out dinner entrees, the later rounds focused on recently launched dim sum and Chinese plates, Northside Cafe certainly is not skimping on ingredient quality as both the rib eye and filet were served a juicy medium rare, the trio of snappy shrimp deftly doused in garlic while asparagus and potatoes were both as good as upscale steakhouse fare.
Blase as ever about salmon, the fish itself nicely cooked though a bit lost amidst all the brightly citrus sauce, a duo of pastas was presented simultaneously with far more balance, the fettuccine cooked perfectly al dente with heavy cream laced inn garlic while the cheesy pockets of ravioli were quickly devoured by the left half of the table, the simplicity of the crushed tomatoes and herbs praised by an Italian at the table reminiscing of his grandmother’s red sauce.
Transitioning abruptly to Chinese, the next nine plates offered on a newly launched list of dim sum, suffice it to say that substantial tweaks are needed before this part of the menu can be appropriately recommended, the fried items by far the best of the group while pork was sticky and far too sweet, the steamed options universally overcooked as if by an inexperienced hand,
Admittedly shocked by the drop in quality, and soon to become even more confused by the fact that actual Chinese entrees were confidently prepared as if by an entirely different kitchen compared to those sent out before, it was to a whole steamed bass that eyes were next widened, the flesh rich and moist with a delicate bit of lemon and lovely top-notes of scallions and lemongrass.
At this point already overserved, some items boxed for home while others unfortunately went to waste, it was still to nine more full-size plates that the slowly dwindling table was treated, the salt and pepper dazzling beneath delicate batter while fried rice, chow fun, and everything made with noodles was on par with the best of Spring Mountain Road, without too substantial a hike in price.
Dining partners already waiving the white flag, or at least folding napkins and debating the pros and cons of renting a room within the hotel rather than carrying the food coma home, it was with five desserts that the evening would end and although the cookie was far less ‘gooey’ than one may have expected there was no lack of quality anywhere else, the fruited options each outstripping modest expectations while the peanut butter cup studded cheesecake was silky, smooth, and not oversweetened, the bread pudding taking the opposite path in offering the steamy custard block topped in ice cream with a shallow pool of golden brown sauce.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Offering better food than almost any 24/7 spot in Las Vegas, with prices far more forgiving for comparable items than at places further South on the Strip, Northside Cafe continues to impress on a level far greater than passers-by may notice, the dim-sum menu a lone exception while breakfast, dinner, Chinese plates, and desserts offer plenty of well-priced hits.
RECOMMENDED: Caramelized Banana Pancakes, Croissant Bread Pudding, Ravioli Marinara, Whole Steamed Striped Bass, Salt & Pepper Fresh Squid, Fried Rice with Egg White & Dry Scallops, Beef Chow Fun with Gravy, Soy Sauce Chow Mein with Onion & Bean Sprouts
AVOID: Dim Sum, Chocolate Chip Cookie.
TIP: Featuring several different menus throughout the day, Chinese items beginning at 5pm and stretching until 2am, those interested in specific items are encouraged to peruse the SLS website as all but the desserts are listed in full and up to date.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Garlic Pollo – Garlic chicken bites, pan tossed in a Spanish garlic sherry butter sauce & sauteed with our house herb mix
Latin Lobster Salad Roll – Maine Lobster, Mojo Mayo, Chives, Avocado, Watercress
Red Crab Sweet Corn Bisque – A rich, creamy soup made with fresh red crabmeat, roasted tomato, garlic, ginger, lemongrass, sweet basil, and sofrito
Latin Clam Chowder – Chef Beni’s twist on a New England favorite! Smooth chowder with Spanish chorizo, smoked paprika, sweet potatoes, sweet cream, sofrito and house blend herbs
Manchego cheese crisps
Garlic Shrimp Mofongo – Fried green plantains mashed in a wooden mortar and pestle, or “pilon,” along with citrus flavors & garlic topped with tender Garlic Shrimp
Cubano Panini – Panini style sandwich with sliced pork and Black Forest ham, Gruyere cheese with mojo mayo, mustard, and pickle
Fresh Cut Fries
Sweet Potato Fries with Blue Cheese
Yucca Fries
Chopped Chicken Salad – House combination of chopped Napa Cabbage and jicama tossed with a delicious blend of pumpkin seeds, piquillo peppers, manchego cheese, plantain chips, & avocado. Drizzled with a refreshing chimichurri honey dressing
5 Cheese Red Crab Mac
Paella Velazquez – Paella is tender fluffy saffron rice filled with an assortment of baby clams, mussels, shrimp, calamari, fish, grilled chicken, Spinach chorizo and fresh baby peas
Catalan Cream – Spanish Custard with Lemon and Cinnamon
Warm White Chocolate Bread Pudding – Brioche, Madagascar Vanilla Bean Custard, Dark Rum Sauce
Originally opened in the old Garfield’s space under the name Latin Fish, but quickly rebranded as Isabela’s by Chef Beni Velazquez of Downtown’s Bar + Bistro fame, it has been a slow start for the beautiful restaurant set beside a man-made lake off Regatta Drive, and yet sitting down with four friends who know a thing (or ten) about dining around Sin City the results of a chef-selected tasting menu showed plenty of bold flavors and an adept hand for balance, though the run-amok menu and awkward servers remain in desperate need of some tweaks.
Selected as a meeting place in part due to location, but also to see if low marks amongst Yelpers and local ‘critics’ were anywhere near the truth, it was at prix-fixe with arrangements made directly through Chef Beni that the menu was set, and given plenty of room to spread out amidst a square table in large private room it was with long discussion of the city’s dining scene that the twenty-plate lunch unfolded, the opening bites of warm cornbread with three spreads followed by a crabcake atop mashed plantains each highlighting flavors sweet as well as savory, a hallmark of Velazquez culinary roots and good sign of what would come next.
Having specially requested a handful of plates from Sunday brunch, a menu that might be well served to be offered on Saturday as well considering the large restaurant sat less than 10% full at noon, plate three featured Isabela’s highly acclaimed flan French Toast, and with a caramelized exterior overlying a center wet with custard the results were every bit as decadent as might be expected, the follow-up omelet largely lost in the wake of such a delicious concept while the subsequent chicken was awash in butter and garlic, the sherry and herbs unfortunately muddled in the mix.
Regaining footing quickly, though servers tilting plates saw the first of three spills as a duo of soups were served on the heels of lobster salad stuffed inside toasty golden rolls, suffice it to say that although neither the bisque nor chowder was remotely ‘typical’ in the least, both bowls were invariably excellent as the former came across sweet and silky while the latter upgraded the New England classic by several notches through the addition of smoky paprika and spicy pork sausage, each bite compelling another until the deceptively deep vessel was completely wiped clean.
Returning to mofongo for plate nine before presenting a pressed panini alongside three styles of fries as the halfway point of our stay, Velazquez’s take on his native sandwich was on par with several of those tasted in Miami, a few more pickles potentially placing it above all but the very best, while the funky sliced sweet potatos and Jenga-style fried yucca were each locally beyond compare.
Refreshing palates with the tender chicken salad served atop chopped cabbage and jicama as plaintain chips added texture alongside creamy avocado and sliced Spanish cheese, it was to a small crock of macaroni tinged with red crab that each of us were next treated, the savories coming to a conclusion with two large skillets of paella, the notable lack of socarrat admittedly a bit of a disappointment, though the quality of the prawns and clams amidst rich wafts of saffron certainly did their best to somewhat soften the blow.
At this point verging on stuffed, the meal having stretched over two-hundred minutes as desserts were presented family style for all to share, it was with a quartet of options that the table was topped, and setting aside more service mispronunciations the question of where to invest limited stomach capacity proved quite the conundrum, the Catalan cream no doubt the lightest option though personal proclivities tilted more towards the steamy white chocolate bread pudding and delicate flan served atop a lightly toothsome base, each creamy bite slightly reminiscent of St. Louis style buttercake.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Still an evolving concept, and one with plenty of room to grow in terms of service while a scaling back of the menu’s scope would allow the kitchen an opportunity to really dial-in flavors and textures both, one hopes that Isabela’s will soon find its audience because with a beautiful room and a truly passionate Chef it’d be a real shame to see another failure for a restaurant attempting to challenge the Summerlin status quo.
RECOMMENDED: Flan French Toast, Latin Clam Chowder, Cubano Panini, Sweet Potato Fries with Blue Cheese, Yucca Fries, Warm White Chocolate Bread Pudding, Flan Cake.
TIP: Open at eleven with whole menu available for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday till 9 or 10 o’clock, Sunday brunches offer a significantly different experience beginning at 10am and ending at three.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Located on North Jones and deceptively tucked away in a shopping center with signage that depicts neither the style nor scope of the space it was just prior to 9am that I entered Vegas Bakery and with a vast display of Mexican pastries laid out before me the choices almost seemed overwhelming, a clerk with fairly good English skills helping to navigate the half-dozen cases, each item reportedly made on premises with bakers arriving at 3am seven-days per week.
Without a doubt the most copious display of cakes seen to date on this side of the Strip it was to wide eyes that more than sixty styles of sweets and savories glistened behind glass as I slowly made my way around the store, and with questions answered patiently about the constituents written in Spanish or shorthand an eventual order of seven items was hatched, the total tariff of $14.09 seemingly a bargain, though the quality of the goods would soon prove to range from truly delicious to unfortunately quite bad.
Obviously not using top tier ingredients considering the bargain basement pricing of each item, the flavor profiles generally trending quite sweet with little evidence of restraint, it was upon relocating to a coffee shop with seating that first bites were taken, the Borrachitos con Crema featuring all the textures of a baba au rhum, though the flavor itself more closely resembled that of Hostess’ famous yellow snack cake.
Moving next to a slice of bread pudding that came across a bit dense despite pleasant savory notes amidst the custard, plenty of raisins helping to offer a bit of variance to textures that were otherwise unvaried and homogenous throughout, it was with high hopes that I approached the layered Mil Hojas but for all the assertions of items made daily the puff pastry was already beset with sogginess while previously canned peaches were far too syrupy to justify more a small taste.
At this point quickly losing faith that much would be memorable it was in both the guava turnover as well as the dulce de leche cookies that Vegas Bakery found a short reprieve, and with the former’s crisp pocket thickly packed with jam while the later reminded me sugary Pecan Sandies hopes were briefly enlivened for both Foglia and Walnut Tres Leches, the former totally forgettable while the latter would again disappoint with flavors of little more than granulated sugar, the gritty texture of the frosting failing to show even the slightest bit of care or technique.
TWO STARS: Perhaps harboring too high of expectations considering the quality of items from Cake World just one day prior, but unable to overlook shoddy workmanship no matter how low the price, it is unfortunate that Vegas Bakery chooses to focus on quantity rather than quality as a few less items and more attention to the end product would likely yield far better results without all that much lost.
RECOMMENDED: Guava Turnover, Dulce de Leche Cookies.
AVOID: Tres Leches Nuez, Mil Hojas with Peach.
TIP: Not offering a ‘traditional’ tres leches, those looking for esoteric options like Neapolitan, Eggnog, and more may wish to visit Vegas Bakery, though with bakeries like Cake World nearby and the version at Drago Sisters even better I’m really not sure poorly executed novelties are really that much of a draw.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Bruschetta with Sausage, Peppers, Onions on Sesame Semolina
Pasta Pie
Steibrenner Calzone
Modesto Pizza with Sliced Mozzarella
Pistachio Gelato Brioche Slider
Serving Las Vegas for 35 years and continuously evolving the concept while slowly growing the brand it would be difficult to say anyone has contributed more to Sin City’s love of pizza than John Arena, and invited in for a special history lesson on Friday night it was with friends both new and old that a group of ten was enthralled by tales dating back centuries, the owner of Metro Pizza’s almost encyclopedic knowledge served up alongside several styles of pie in the bakery named after his mother attached to the pizzeria on Sky Pointe Drive.
Now in the business of baking since his pre-teen years, a childhood in Brooklyn giving way to the launch of a pizza career in Las Vegas shortly after relocation and the time-honored skills that have made him a veritable legend amidst many of the best Pizzaiolos from around the globe, it was with a warm introduction that John welcomed us to the universe he has been exploring for more years than the majority of our party have been alive and dotting the experience with several tastes of Metro signatures as well as off-menu specials while fielding any number of questions with unparalleled candor the nearly four-hour experience passed almost too quickly, the information offered far more than one could have ever hoped to absorb.
Truly a generous host, the entirety of the experience free-of-charge with wine and soft drinks provided for those choosing to enjoy, it was with the assistance of Lulu’s Chris Decker that nine items were rolled out during the course of the evening and beginning with Metro’s golden garlic knots wrapped around tender meatballs there was nary a bite not to be savored, the pizza sauce a true work of art that tastes only of fresh milled tomatoes with the slightest bit of herbs, a far cry from other ‘chains’ looking to suit the American palate by adding sugar or too much salt.
Taken back to the times of Pompeii through pictures and stories discussing misconceptions of Pizza’s origins, taste two featured a freshly stretched flatbread topped only in chopped herbs, olive oil, plus sliced sardines and explaining how it was not until trade brought water buffalo and tomatoes from Asia and Spain that ‘modern’ concepts of pizza truly existed, the next bites of pie were offered in the form of Metro’s Sicilian-style with 4-days cool leavening allowing the crust to come across crisp and robust with a wispy air-pocketed interior that appropriately resembled the cross section of a sponge.
Getting creative with the toppings as the group was invited to enter the kitchen, course four featured a grilled pie topped with peppery arugula and razor clams whose sweetness was beautifully accented by the lightest bit of char, and showing off his family’s baking heritage with slices of sesame studded semolina the nutty bread proved quite the treat beneath a ragout of roasted vegetables, though perhaps even better when smeared with butter and fresh preserves hot from the toaster on a loaf given to each of us as a gift to take home.
Onward to some of Metro’s more eclectic signatures, some in the group beginning to fade under the weight of so much food, items six and seven spoke to the fact that there is no one ‘right’ way to make a pizza, the pasta filled iteration having roots dating back hundreds of years in Italy while my personal favorite bite of the evening arrived in the form of Eggplant Parm wrapped in a crispy baked shell, the whimsical wink to Seinfeld just one more reason to love a dish that could have easily come off as gimmicky or far too oily and unwieldy to sell.
Rounding out savories with the thin crust Modesto while fielding more questions from the crowd, each answer speaking to years of travel, research, and the sort of passion most only dream they could have for the way they make a living, it was with two trays of ‘sliders’ that the evening would end, and although the intensely nutty gelato is sourced from a company in California it was the housemade brioche buns that made all the difference, each lightly sprinkled with sugar and nuts to make the best ice cream sandwich served in the Northwest suburbs, not really a surprise given the quality of the baked goods offered from Arena and Decker during daytime hours at Lulu’s Bread and Breakfast.
FIVE STARS: Obviously a special experience, but one that is at least somewhat accessible to the general public by way of courses offered at UNLV, suffice it to say a lifetime of experience and a fervor for his craft has made John a true legend amongst the pizza community while cementing Metro as a fixture of the community – the sort of place easily overlooked or dismissed as a ‘chain’ in reality using top-tier ingredients to please everyone from families to aficionados while embracing a culture of learning and evolution, no one style of pizza considered to be the only ‘right’ way.
RECOMMENDED: Pasta Stuffed Pie, Sicilian, Steinbrenner Calzone.
AVOID: N/A, though bruschetta, Pompeii-style, and grilled pizza are notably not part of the ‘regular’ menu.
TIP: Not currently on the menu, the Sicilian is rumored to re-emerge in the fall, and at least in my humble opinion is the best version I’ve tasted to this day.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Located on North Tenaya Way in a strip mall one would just as soon pass by without paying any attention lies a tiny space titled Cake World, and although neither the space nor selection is as voluminous as that of many other bakeries the quality of the goods is to-date unsurpassed by that of other Mexican bakeries found in cities including San Francisco, Detroit, and Chicago.
Owned by a second generation baker and open at 7:00am seven days per week, Cake World occupies a small corner of the shopping plaza and with the ceiling decorated in pinata my 5pm arrival found shelves still stocked and baking ongoing, a small line forming more than once as others arrived to gather custom cakes in several styles and flavors, the tres leches undoubtedly a most popular order.
Greeted by the baker as his female counterpart was busy helping two young women design a Sweet 16 styled cake, it was with a big smile that he made suggestions when asked what he recommended, and adding on a few personal interests $13.34 was traded for six items, only the dry cinnamon Concha proving anything less than excellent.
Admittedly taking the non-traditional path for a couple of items, it warrants mention that the donuts at Cake World are reportedly made from the store’s bolillo bread base, and with a soft crumb that picks up little-to-no grease the bite is a bit more dense than many, though the lard and leavening each work wonders beneath the light glaze to offer a sweet/savory balance not unlike that of a traditional European Paczki, the filled versions sold out during this visit but perhaps worth a return for those seeking such a thing.
Impressed by a slice of carrot cake that saw plenty of raisins and nuts studding a spicy moist batter beneath tangy cream cheese it was onward to the items chosen by the baker that the tasting progressed and although the guava turnover was a little underfilled the golden pocket was crisp and well suited to stand up to the substantial sweetness while the cheese danish was still warm from the oven, a bit of caramelization adding a crackling top-note to the savory filling while puff pastry shattered and flaked to the table, a very worthy contender for best of its kind and certainly the best I’ve had for a mere $1.25.
Tempted by flan, cheesecake, fruit turnovers, and no less than a half-dozen other items, it was in being mindful of dinner plans to come that the sampling wrapped up with Cake World’s signature Tres Leches Cake, and although flavored and fruited options were offered a single slice of the traditional version was selected with results exceeding admittedly high expectations, each bite well balanced given the high quality of house whipped cream juxtaposing layers of yellow custard, the base not nearly as ‘wet’ as some with sweetness equally scaled back.
FOUR STARS: Purporting no expertise as relates to Mexican pastries, and actually quite disappointed with several iterations of such in the past, Cake World is turning out some truly delicious goods in a place that many would never think to look, the friendly service an added bonus and the sort of thing that leaves little doubt that an early morning visit when everything is fresh will soon see me back.
RECOMMENDED: Tres Leches, Cheese Danish, Donut.
AVOID: Conchas seem to have suffered from a day on the shelf, far dryer than others in the past.
TIP: 7a-7p M-Sa, 7a-5p on Sunday. Whole cakes available in store and custom orders with 48-hours notice.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Samples: Green Tea Kit-Kat, Dark Chocolate Sorbetto, Cookies and Cream, Pistachio
Ventagli/Palmier
Alfajores – Coconut and Dulce de Leche
Dulce De Leche Millefoglie
Nutella Biscuit
Peanut Butter Liquid Gelato
Organic Dark Cherry Soda
Boscaiola – Raspberry Sorbetto, Mint Pesto, Fruit Macedonia, Meringa
Bread Pudding Gelato
Suddenly breaking ties with Art of Flavors several months ago, the reaction to Desyree Alberganti’s departure was perhaps the most telling sign of just how significant the young woman’s impact on the local food community had been over the past several years, but with ear-to-ear smiles as she greeted almost every guest by name at her new Gelatology on Saturday the city’s queen of frozen treats was undoubtedly back in her element…and with a few new tricks up her sleeves.
Potentially the most universally beloved local chef amongst critics, visitors, and folks on sites like Yelp, there is no doubt that Desyree’s return to the local scene comes at a unique time with the recent openings of Gelato Messina and a few locations of French outfit Amorino, but with the same carefully crafted base previously used on Las Vegas Boulevard the new location on Rainbow features all the smoothness that fans will remember with all the signatures still available, plus daily specials like bread pudding or green tea kit-kat, each dialed up with rich flavors and textural nuances galore.
Taking on new challenges in the form of Coppe and “Liquid Gelato” that comes across with a satin mouthfeel as a result of combining the gelato base with cream, ice, and one of six flavors it should go without saying that anything anchored by one of the signature flavors is a safe bet and with all the toppings for the sundaes crafted in house one only needs to decide their preferred degree of indulgence, the vegan-friendly Boscaiola a delightfully light concoction featuring raspberry sorbetto, mint, macerated berries, and crunchy vanilla meringue.
Moving past pastries and into the world of small batch sodas and pastries that see Desyree’s daughter lending an already skilled hand in the kitchen, suffice it to say that the smaller glass case at the front of Gelatology deserves an equally close look as the colorful frozen treats, and although the selection is thus far somewhat limited the quality of each bite was every bit on par with the gelato, a trio of cookies highlighted by a coconut flecked Alfajore while the Millefoglie featured innumerable layers of pastry that shattered to light fork pressure giving way to dulce de leche that came across both smooth and sweet.
FIVE STARS: Nothing has changed but the location as relates to the frozen treats, and with even more control over the product and new concepts already showing promise of great things to come the only in question is how frequently to head back for more.
RECOMMENDED: Millefoglie, Dark Chocolate Sorbetto, Liquid Gelato.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Open at 1pm daily, closes at 10pm weekdays and 11pm Friday and Saturday.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Located in the same plaza as Chada Thai as well as China Mama, and on my ‘to-do’ list since a few days after relocating to Sin City, it was finally on a Saturday evening that I met a friend at Asian BBQ & Noodle – the only two Caucasians to set foot in the place between the hours of 6:30 and 7:45pm proving to be a very good thing.
Tight yet tidy, with a Cash-Only policy that proves no issue as items trend far cheaper than one might expect when considering the quality and quantity of the food, it was at the last remaining table that the two of us squeezed in and navigating the concise menu it was to the amusement of us both that the waitress’ eyebrows raised as preserved egg porridge was ordered, not to mention three additional plates.
Waiting mere moments for orders to be prepared, several to-go customers popping in and out as my friend sipped potent iced tea while I opted for water, it was first the aforementioned cauldron of congee that arrived and almost as if to award our “adventurous” order the creamy bowl of rice was absolutely chock-a-block full of both crispy pork and blackened egg, each bite a new adventure with baby bok choy, chives, scallions, and mushrooms also joining the mix.
Next brought the barbeque plate, a bountiful trio of meats with crispy belly pork outperforming supple flesh of barbeque and excessively bony duck, it was an interesting contrast to see the same fowl deboned in a steaming bowl of soup fare much better, the skin softened only slightly by broth while long-style noodles were springy and plethoric, a half-dozen tender dumplings fully packed with nicely seasoned shrimp.
Well aware that we had over-ordered, but happy that my friend would have a couple meals the following day at a grand tally of $60 inclusive of tax and tip, it was with a substantial plate of dry noodles that the meal would end, and although the seafood was undoubtedly frozen and rather par for the course, it was the melange of mushrooms that helped to prop up the plate, each featuring a distinct earthy flavor that worked in concert with the vegetables and gravy to offer a flavor both savory and a touch sweet, a nice compliment to the otherwise rich dishes more rich with fatty cuts of meat.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: A bit disappointed by the duck and seafood, though universally impressed by the pork, portions, and price there is little question as to why Asian BBQ & Noodles remains a local favorite, the frequency of return limited only by a somewhat limited menu and several more Chinatown spots to explore.
RECOMMENDED: Congee with pork and preserved egg, Roast Belly Pork, Roasted Duck Shrimp Dumpling Noodle Soup.
AVOID: Roasted Duck.
TIP: Those looking for unique items like a whole pig roast, suckling pig, or Soy Sauce duck are advised to make an advanced order. Cash Only.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Seafood Trio: Alaskan King Crab Leg Remoulade / Bay Scallop Ceviche with Spicy Serrano Chile, Hearts of Palm, Cucumber and Cilantro Salsa served in Butter Lettuce Cups with Shaved Radish and Jicama Slaw / Spicy Tuna Tartare with Roasted Jalapeno, Lime & Avocado Puree with Crispy Wonton Chips
Soup Trio: Shrimp, Okra & Andouille Gumbo / Sweet Corn Bisque & Maine Lobster / Fall River Clam Chowder
Alligator Meatballs – Sauce Piquant and Creole Mustard Emulsion / Crystal Fried Florida Frog Legs – Shaved Celery Slaw and Buttermilk Ranch Dressing
Broiled Oysters with Compound Butter and Asiago
The Fish House Cioppino – One and a Half Pound Australian Lobster Tail with Little Neck Clams, Prince Edward Island Mussels, Gulf Shrimp, Marbled Potatoes and Pearl Onions Served in a Savory Tomato Stew with Toasted Po-Boy Bread
Seared Halibut – Smoked Bacon & Black Eyed Pea Succotash with Sweet Corn Cream / Pecan Crusted Texas Redfish with Garden Vegetable Ratatouille and Creole Meuniere Sauce / Seared Sea Scallops with Stone Ground Anson Mills Pepperjack Cheese Grits
Grilled Double Cut Pork Chop with Bourbon Maple Roasted Sweet Potatoes
Hickory Bacon & Smoked Fontina Mac & Cheese
Dessert Sampler – Petite Pecan Pie / Strawberry Rhubarb Crisp with Oatmeal Streusel and Strawberry Ice Cream / New Orleans Bread and Butter Bread Pudding and Homemade Vanilla Bean Ice Cream
Emeril’s Banana Cream Pie – Chocolate Shavings and Caramel Sauce
Carrot Cake – Cream Cheese Frosting, Candied Pecans, Carrot Chips and Brown Butter Sauce
Chocolate Peanut Butter Mousse Pie – Strawberry Compote, Chocolate Sauce and Chocolate Shavings
Bananas Foster, Peach, Mango Sorbet
Double Espresso on Ice
In many ways the first “showman” Celebrity Chef, Emeril Legasse really needs no introduction to those interested in dining out, and yet in a city where new restaurants rise and fall in a matter of months there is little discussion of the venerable chef’s eponymous Las Vegas location, the New Orleans Fish House now celebrating its 20th anniversary inside the MGM.
Ever a splashy space, the high ceilings and soft lighting along with linens plus a good wine list adding a air of fine dining to a restaurant that plays Pearl Jam with menu prices far more favorable than other ‘celebrity’ spots on the Strip, it was as a party of two that we were greeted at the podium and led directly to a table in the back corner it was with a special tasting orchestrated by Chef Heath Cicerelli that the next two-hours would unfold.
Admittedly given the VIP treatment, smaller portions of menu signatures plated so that more than a few items could be experienced in order to get a good idea of the restaurant’s commitment to sourcing amd quality of the staff, our tasting began as a trio of appetizers with both the crab and tuna offering bold spicing and great textures while bright green accoutrements unfortunately left the tender scallops feeling a bit overmatched.
Next served a basket of cornbread, easily amongst the best in a city where several great versions are already found, it was with three soup shooters that the afternoon progressed, and with each potage rife with seafood the only real questions were where to start and which was best, the Lobster and Corn Bisque undeniably the most rich and luxurious while the spicy Gumbo featured the spice of Andouille balanced marvelously by a particularly earthy roux.
Joking that course three was titled “The Swamp Platter,” Chef Heath continued the meal with two plates offering some of Legasse’s signature Fish House starters, and although the meatballs were a bit muddled in the mustard despite a great texture and good spicing the warmed oysters and buttermilk fried frog legs were both simple and succulent, the later perhaps the only version left in the city since the recent Yardbird menu re-invent.
Graciously affording us an opportunity to experience the dinner-only cioppino that sees a 1.5lb grilled lobster tail alongside several perfectly prepared shellfish in a peppery tomato broth infused with notes of saffron, one would be hard pressed to name a more unlikely showstopper in the middle of the desert, each bite balancing smoke and brine amidst just enough acid to make the flavors ‘pop.’
Again fancying trios, plate five presented two fish and a vastly superior scallop to that offered in round one, and although the off-menu seared halibut was meaty and rich as expected atop pork infused succotash it simply could not hold a candle the restaurant’s signature Red Fish with sweetened pecan coating proving a deft foil to the spicy aromatics of creamy creole sauce.
Rounding out the savories with another threesome of sorts, the culinary team opting to plate cider-brined pork atop maple soaked sweet potatoes with a bubbly crock of elbow pasta “kicked up” by smoked cheese and hickory bacon at its side, those looking for a good piece of meat will be equally pleased with the offerings at Emeril’s as those looking for something from the sea while the macaroni makes a case for best in the (702.)
With a sweet-tooth known to the hosts, plus previous Emeril experiences almost universally impressive in desserts, it was in a triplet-of-triplets that the meal wrapped up and with sorbets meriting little mention when compared the rest a valiant effort was undertaken, the “miniature” pecan pie a bit unbalance in crust-to-filling ratio while the bread pudding, cobbler, and carrot cake were absolutely excellent…and the banana cream pie, what more can be said?
FOUR AND A HALF STARS (food alone Visited once prior, in 2007 during trip to Frozen Fury at the MGM Arena, memories of my seminal trip to the Fish House have faded in the wake of thousands of great meals, but with Chef Legasse still holding a special place in my earliest fine dining experiences I’d say its safe to say I remain a steadfast fan. Obviously unable to rate the restaurant experience as a whole considering the fact that our 26 menu items were served almost exclusively by Chef Heath and the kitchen staff, there is little doubt in my mind that Emeril’s New Orleans Fish House is as good today as it ever has been.
RECOMMENDED: Cioppino, Gumbo, Mac n’ Cheese, Texas Red Fish, Banana Cream Pie, Carrot Cake, Bread and Butter Pudding.
AVOID: Bay Scallop Ceviche was unfortunately unbalanced while the Gator Meatballs were a bit too generously spiced to tell the difference from any other lean meat. For desserts, one wonders whether the full-size pecan pie would show better given the limitations of filling the small sampler’s shell.
TIP: Those interested in a similar tasting are encouraged to contact the restaurant directly about the private Chef’s table with an open view of the kitchen, and those looking to sample the restaurant on a budget would be well advised to check out the current Summer tasting menu or a few plates during Happy Hour at the bar.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Papa Frita Burrita – Roasted Potato, Black Beans, Sweet Corn, Poblano Pepper, Caramelized Onion, Pepper Jack, Cheddar, Grilled Spinach Tortilla
Benecio Del Porko – Grilled Cornbread topped with BBQ Pulled Pork, Overeasy Eggs, Hollandaise, Charred Corn, Cilantro
Peach and Blueberry Frenchy Toast
Apple Raisin Frenchy Toast
Bat Ship Crazy Roll – Thick Cut Peppered Bacon, Egg, Sharp Cheddar Cheese, Tomato Relish, Avocado
Egg on a Soft Roll – Bacon, Egg, Sharp Cheddar Cheese
Cinnamon Roll
Extra Thick Chocolate Chip Cookie
Once visited in 2013, the entirety of an order invested in cupcakes and sweets prior to a meal elsewhere with friends, it would be fool-hearty to suggest that my lone visit to LuLu’s Bread and Breakfast was an accurate representation of the restaurant as a whole, and told by trusted palates that kinks had been worked out it was with a friend that I sat down for a tasting-style breakfast orchestrated by Chef Chris Decker, the results almost universally showing some of the best all-week breakfast items in town.
Admitting himself a pizza and bread man whose work in sweets is an ongoing process in evolution, the concept for Lulu’s actually beginning as a food truck with Bouchon trained pasty chef Chris Herrin before migrating to the space behind Metro Pizza on Sky Pointe Drive, it was with Chef Decker sharing anecdotes of early lessons learned that the two of us sat along the curvy counter at the center of Lulu’s cozy dining area and served exclusively by the Chef it was not long after arrival that festivities began, one of several cups of coffee sweetened to taste served alongside a small bowl of creamy yogurt and housemade granola, the natural flavors of honey and fruit providing just enough sweetness to help mellow a substantial bit of tang.
Transitioning next to a tasting of pastries, the quintet delivered in two rounds as each item was made hot-to-order by Chris to replenish a supply rapidly depleted by a steady stream of regulars including families and individuals both young and old, it was only a toaster strudel that seemed somewhat lacking in fruit preserves that proved anything less than the work of a skilled veteran, the laminated pastry showing strongly whether wrapped around fresh peaches or house made apple pie filling, the best bites found in the danish stuffed with plums and smooth cheese or “One of Those” that takes a novel approach to the croissant/donut hybrid as rich cream juxtaposes layers of lightly fried dough.
Transitioning to the savory side of breakfast it was at the Chef’s discretion that course three saw the vegetarian friendly Papa Frita Burrita followed by Lulu’s signature benedict, and although the first was pleasant melange of flavors with sweetness melded to light spice by caramelized onions and cheese the cleverly named “Benecio Del Porko” upped the ante on flavor 2-fold with house made crumbly cornbread crowned in saucy pulled pork and blistered sweetcorn, the Hollandaise admittedly outsourced but still smooth as silk when matched to a pair of runny golden yolks.
Bouncing back to sweets…and oh how sweet it was…two steamy blocks of bread pudding-style French Toast were served up next, and with pure maple syrup available on request the only real questions became whether apple-cinnamon or peach with blueberries was better, and whether there is any better version of French Toast in the city, particularly at a price nearly half that of the best on The Strip.
Himself a native Northern Pennsylvanian, and likewise the friend with whom I was dined, Chris could not help but offer his personal take on New York’s infamous Egg Sandwich as the final bites of the meal, and with the traditional version atop a soft roll quite fine on its own, a total stunner was found in in the “Bat Ship Crazy,” an amalgam of avocado, bacon, egg, and cheese singing with vinegary tomato relish amidst puffy bread with flavors harkening the “Everything” bagel of similar Big Apple fame.
Gifted a thick chocolate chip cookie as a take-home treat to be enjoyed later that day, and purchasing a springy cinnamon roll lacquered with a generous layer of cream cheese frosting in addition to leaving a sizable tip, it should be obvious to anyone reading that Lulu’a Bread and Bakery is a special sort of place breakfast and one that refuses to rest on its laurels, instead evolving with time and season in a delightful and cozy way.
FOUR STARS (food alone Unable to rate the restaurant experience as a whole considering the fact that service was provided exclusively by Chef Decker who sat tableside during much of the meal discussing his history and culinary approach, suffice it to say that aside from a few items outsourced due to a lack of kitchen space the cuisine at LuLu’s shows a great degree of passion, creativity, as well as dedication – far more than anything else in the surrounding area, to say the very least.
RECOMMENDED: French Toast, Plum and Sweet Ricotta Pastry, One of Those, Benecio Del Porko, Bat Ship Crazy.
AVOID: Perhaps an anomaly, particularly as photos elsewhere show the item to feature far more jam, the Toaster Strudel was merely okay when compared to the rest of the pastry offered that day.
TIP: Now selling pizzas at The Market downtown, and also the source of pasties sold at The Beat, those seeking Decker’s works without making the drive are encouraged to stop in early morning when the chef makes deliveries himself, though the selection is larger and baking is ongoing throughout regular business hours back at homebase.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
At times a fan of Jose Andres, but often underwhelmed considering the aggressive pricing at some of his more ‘trendy’ spots, it was with an ardent supporter of the Spanish celebrity chef that a return trip to Bazaar Meat was booked, and although the enormous menu still seems pricey all-things-considered a five item sampling showed no lack of creativity or quality with the $35,000 Josper grill turning out one of the best pieces of fish Las Vegas has ever seen.
Still a happening place, though only 1/4 filling the enormous dining area on a Friday evening just after 8:00pm, it was at a plush four-top adjacent the charcuterie counter that our party was sat upon entry and quickly greeted by both the dining room manager and an eager sommelier it was to my discretion that ordering was deferred, a focus on items previously not experienced taken, though signatures like the carpaccio and lamb neck tempted given the superb quality of each when ordered before.
Louder in décor than in decibels, the music dialed back from a year prior despite still embracing the likes of The Black Keys, Arctic Monkeys, and Broken Bells, it was with conversation pus a few excellent Spanish wines that time between ordering and opening plates passed, yet when a duo of appetizers arrived after perhaps twenty minutes the chatter almost immediately ceased, the focus falling entirely on a traditional Spanish omelet topped with rich offal of varying textures alongside a tartare of tender meat and briny chopped oysters melded by egg yolk that was exquisite on its own and even better atop crispy oiled bread.
Again impressed by the skilled hands of the culinary team when not getting overly ‘cute’ to the detriment of ingredients that are arguably second-to-none amongst local steakhouses, it was as the last bites of tartare were being enjoyed that the whole turbot was presented tableside, and returned to the kitchen for fileting it was with gratitude that the whole fish was returned to the table on a large board for self-service, the charred skin something that no doubt would offend many Francophiles despite being crispy and absolutely delicious while the flesh itself was the very definition of moist, each bite rich yet delicate with the cheek meat particularly succulent, as was that scraped from alongside the belly and skull.
Still offering a dessert menu that borders on offensive when taking into account both the quality and cost of each piece, it was instead in two Josper roasted sides that the rest of our appetites were invested and although the $17 baby corn was clever the cobs were unfortunately a bit overwhelmed by the accoutrements, a far more balanced bite found in the $12 baby carrots that saw blackened root vegetables in several colors tinged in light heat with a vibrant finish of natural sweetness amidst fresh yogurt.
FOUR STARS: Still an imperfect vision, mostly due to pricing and occasionally getting too ‘cute’ for its own good, Bazaar Meat by Jose Andres remains a worthy destination for those looking for something beyond the traditional Steakhouse, the city’s only Josper Grill a definite feather in the cap for a chef not for lack of accolades, though one still wonders why so little attention is paid to dessert when the ones at Jaleo, China Poblano, and Ku Noodles are all quite good.
TIP: Currently offering a Summer Tasting menu that features several signatures at prices and portions that don’t require a large group in order to best be enjoyed, those curious to see what Bazaar Meat is all about are encouraged to take a closer look before the end of the month.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Like many of the Los Angeles offshoots within the SLS Hotel and Casino, Katsuya by Starck arrived to excited opening acclaim when the resort opened its doors just one year ago, and although time as well as legal troubles have led to a bit of negative press the restaurants themselves have continued to show well with trendy crowds and bumping EDM detracting only slightly from cuisine that fares far better than doubters may expect.
Admittedly known to the house, but ordering a la carte and treated to items no different to those served at tables around us, it was at a cozy booth decorated in katana and neon fans that our trio sat, and greeted by Chefs as well as a young server who proved above par for the course a ten-item sampler of signatures as well as a couple more eclectic items were ordered, the results ranging from truly excellent to surprisingly not bad.
No doubt a spot to be seen, the crowd well dressed and attractive with the sort of lighting and ambiance that intentionally screams ‘cool,’ the meal began with Japanese Beer alongside Sake and progressing to an atypical chawanmushi that saw custard atop black truffle mashed potatoes punched up with lobster there is little doubt the menu’s high prices are at least in-part justified by the quality of ingredients, each bite utterly indulgent no matter how far from tradition it did stray.
Requesting the kitchen to roll out items at the Chef’s discretion, plates two and three featured Katsuya’s signature crab roll alongside rich pork gyoza interconnected by a flaky lattice, and although the former was indeed creamy and supple the crustacean itself seemed a touch muddled by semi-sweet sauce while the golden dumplings were a head-on assault on the senses, the thin shell breaking forth with juicy bekshire pig lent balance by a melange of herbs and spices.
Next offered an iced sashimi box along with a full order of tomago, suffice it to say that with exception of a few mispronunciations from the server everything spoke to quality fish sliced by a skilled hand, and with the half lobster arriving next given a whimsical ‘walnut prawn’ treatment the lightness of the batter almost seemed impossible, particularly when accounting for the fact that the flesh itself remained sweet, tender, and appropriately cooked just past raw.
Amused by the crunchy corn roll, an item selected almost entirely because it seemed destined to fail yet one that instead offered a complex flavor profile that saw discrepant ingredients each add something to the whole, savories concluded in a large bowl of wafu noodles steaming beneath a poached egg and tender bacon, the soy unfortunately pushing the salinity a bit past ‘umami’ and into the realm of outright salty, a shame as the noodles and bacon were each prepared quite well.
Unable to settle on just one dessert, the selection of sweets actually quite appealing compared to spots like Nobu or Koi, it was with two items served alongside a double espresso of LAMill over ice that the meal would end, and although the small tart of yuzu pudding on a buttery crust was a refreshing bite brightened by strawberries it simply couldn’t compare to a creamy bread pudding given the ‘baba au rhum’ treatment by way of a pipette of booze, the addition of a honey tuille and rich vanilla ice cream adding complexity of temperature, texture, and taste.
THREE STARS: Faring better than similarly branded swank sushi houses with a few standouts and the only real flaws in cuisine a result of too much sauce, Katsuya fulfills its role of offering tourists and club kids a good variety of light bites in a trendy setting while also providing high quality cuisine for more serious diners willing to look past the ‘scene.’
TIP: Currently offering a bargain prix fixe, and previously part of the 50% off Social Sundays deal, there are no doubt deals to be had at Katsuya, though compared to other such spots even the standard menu pricing is not unreasonable at all.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Located in a tall building on Decatur Boulevard, just a stone’s throw from the sprawl of Spring Mountain, Bund Shanghai is considered by some to be one of the city’s best places for authentic regional Chinese cuisine, and although prices trend a touch higher than several competitors, so too did quality of the experience as a party of three sat down to sample a mere fragment of the extensive picture-menu.
Admittedly a bit tucked away, and as such perhaps not as popular as it could be with more prominent placement and a menu more attuned to the “cheap eats” crowd, it was just after 6 o’clock on a Saturday that the dining room sat 95% empty and although both front of house and kitchen proved quite leisurely the light IheartRadio soundtrack and conversation help pass the time until plates began to arrive, a menu in three courses just as requested with the total bill just shy of $150 after tax and gratuity.
Passing up novelties like bullfrog, duck heads, and items described only in Chinese characters from the menu’s final page, it was with a quartet of appetizers that the meal kicked off, and although a personal favorite of fried pumpkin in egg yolk was a bit bland despite the pudding-soft texture beneath crisp tempura, the ‘buttered corn pancake’ was definitely something worth seeking out, the texture somewhat akin to a funnel cake with a sprinkling of sugar acting to enhance each kernel’s intrinsic sweetness.
Not one to pass on XLB, especially in a city where good soup dumplings prove quite a challenge to find, Bund certainly ups the game by offering hand-made versions as opposed to the frozen ones offered elsewhere, but varying quality none the less presents a bit of a conundrum, some skins too thick while others are dainty and delicate, the more expensive crab and pork version a bit more meat than was anticipated while the traditional style was briny and bursting with broth.
Acknowledging that higher prices are mostly justified by ingredients, an MSG-Free kitchen, and portion sizes intended to be shared it was with a trio of entrees that the meal marched on and although the chopped “flavor chicken” was a bit too bony to be enjoyed fully both the (misspelled) braised pork and tail-on jumbo shrimp were textbook renditions of classics, the former tender without tasting “fatty” while the later was thankfully more creamy than sweet with the exception of candied walnuts.
Assuredly stuffed, but at least wanting to taste one of Bund’s more esoteric desserts, a large bowl of Shanghai Rice Pudding was selected with oyster forks proving a rather unique utensil with which to indulge and with the sticky rice forming a dome over pureed taro in a generous pool of honey the flavors of coconut and chrysanthemum rose high on the palate while texture was added by red beans and almonds, both.
THREE STARS: Assuredly ‘finer’ dining than many spots on Spring Mountain, with large portions helping to justify the menu’s higher prices, Bund Shanghai proves a good choice for competent Chinese classics with plenty of intrigue remaining in items better suited to those possessing more adventurous palates.
RECOMMENDED: Walnut Shrimp, Braised Pork Belly in Brown Sauce, Butter Corn Pancake.
AVOID: Flavor Chicken, 1/3 of the XLB.
TIP: Cold tea refills are not free, each glass $2.00, while hot tea is.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
