Truffles n’ Bacon Café [2,] Las Vegas NV

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Truffles n’ Bacon Café

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Lumberjack Pancake – Bacon Jam, Bacon Butter, Pure Maple Syrup

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Buttermilk Biscuit

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Not Your Mama’s Grilled Cheese – Grilled Cheese Panini with Brisket, our Award-Winning Bacon Jam, Grilled Tomato and Sauteed Kale

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Originally visited in June of 2014, the small restaurant toqued by Jackie Lin at that time inhabiting a space within Antiques at the Market, rumors of Truffles n’ Bacon Cafe relocating to a sprawling storefront on South Eastern immediately put a return on the agenda – an all new menu featuring expanded options as well as breakfast only serving to elevate intrigue stoked by the creativity and quality seen during my first dining experience.

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For sure as ‘hidden in plain sight’ as the original, the 90+ seat cafe still tucked away from main throughways in a sizable strip-mall with nearby eateries and sports collectable stores seemingly doing good business, it was just after 1:15 that I walked through the glass doors of Truffles n’ Bacon and surprisingly greeted by name from across the room, the owner apparently a social media follower, it was with warm smiles that a choice of tables in the quarter-filled space was offered.

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Gussied up with large-scale works from a local modernist as a light soundtrack helped mellow sounds from a kitchen twice the size of the entire original cafe, it was to an equally enlarged menu that eyes turned while sipping cucumber infused water, a bit of disappointment in the already-sold-out mac n’ cheese bites quickly resolved by selecting two entrees plus a flaky house-made biscuit served a la carte with a sidecar of honey.Told that portions run large, but not so large that “(I) couldn’t handle it,” from someone clearly amused by the eating exploits described on this site, it was nonetheless with wide-eyes that plates were received in short intervals, the two-top almost overwhelmed while the pate porting a fluffy buttermilk flapjack literally could not be seen when looking from top down.

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Remiss to have passed up the signature bacon jam on visit one, and requesting it in place of the eggs and meat normally served alongside the Lumberjack, suffice it to say that the juxtaposition of savory and sweet is everything one would expect from the item’s description, and with a light bit of heat lingering on the finish the only question becomes how best to utilize the condiment, in this case gilding the edge of pillowy pancakes with great results on its own, but even better when mixed with housemade bacon butter and 100% pure maple syrup.

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Taking note of French Toast for a future visit, and reluctantly omitting one of the best bread pudding presentations in Sin City as well as the warm brownie that saw me swoon just one year ago, it was to savories that attention was turned for entree number two and although a bit skeptical that the sandwich may have a bit too much going on, the “Not Your Mama’s Grilled Cheese” was actually a well-balanced update on an oft-riffed classic, the golden bread doing an excellent job of holding up to melted cheddar and juicy brisket while sauteed kale and sliced tomatoes added bitterness and acid to offset the another hefty layer of spicy bacon spread.

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FOUR STARS: No longer limited by a tiny stall in an antiques market or a kitchen without a hood, Truffles n’ Bacon Cafe continues to execute upscale American classics at a great value with one eye on decadence and the other on balance. Though perhaps not as cute and kitsch as before, one must wonder just how far this team could go if given the right motivation and clientele.

RECOMMENDED: Lumberjack Pancake, Not Your Mama’s Grilled Cheese, Bread Pudding, Brownie (Previous Visit)

AVOID: N/A

TIP: Open at 8:30am daily with specials and catering service available. Jars of Bacon Jam also available for purchase in store.

http://www.trufflesnbacon.com/default.aspx

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Posted in Breakfast, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pancakes, Pork, Truffles n Bacon Cafe

Mothership Coffee Roasters [2,] Henderson NV

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Mothership Coffee Roasters

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Shepard’s Pie Pocket

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Hazelnut Ho-Ho

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Green Tea Cinnamon Roll

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Caramelized Pineapple Snickerdoodle

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Mocha

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Iced Espresso

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Gluten Free Kitchen Sink Cookie

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Concord Grape and Lavender Tart

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Vermont Cheddar Chili Scallion Scone

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Impressive since opening, so much that my first visit prompted an e-mail to owner Juanny Romero requesting the opportunity to sit down with her over coffee to discuss the concept and see the kitchen, a return to Mothership Coffee showed not only the same high quality of roasting as well as baking, but also the sort of brains, talent, and passion that could be just the beginning of something truly special and long overdue in a county topping two-million.

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Conceptualized in part due to Romero’s own health interests and further inspired by a visit to Venice Beach’s Gjusta Bakery, Mothership is undoubtedly a work of passion for the owner who states “this is the sort of food I want to eat, and moreso the sort of food I feel comfortable serving my customers” and with the fair-trade organic beans offered at Sunrise Coffee a known entity since 2008 both a double espresso over ice and a decoratively frothed mocha show the effects of expert roasting, the later taking local to a new level with cocoa crafted specifically for the store by UNLV Graduate Xenon Mallari at Happy Ending Chocolates.

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Spending just over sixty minutes with Juanny, her candid nature a breath of fresh air in a city where PR firms frequently divide owners from the public, it was over a quartet of pastries that stories were shared, and taking note of her implicit trust in Chefs Beth Ryan-Smalls and Sinead Kravetz to craft “delicious, seasonal goods from the best our farmers can provide us” one would be hard-pressed to name a single fault in items running the gamut from a savory mushroom and potato “pocket” to the decadent cake roll featuring house-made hazelnut spread beneath a bittersweet lacquer of chocolate.

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Still a bit smaller in size than would be ideal for those looking to linger and accomplish some work while sipping their brew, it was after an introduction to the pastry team that Ms. Romero made her exit, and spending the next hour speaking with Strip-veteran Ryan-Smalls and Vegan Chef Kravetz a strong respect for concept and craft was readily apparent, each speaking volumes to the quality of the ingredients as well as the creative spirit embraced by management.

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Taking time to view the kitchen, a small space that will ideally soon see benches and potentially the baking of house-made breads, it was alongside two young interns that the Chef’s worked diligently to the tunes of Pink Floyd, and returning to the front for a bit more sampling an explanation to the dry gluten free cookie of my first visit was offered in the form of a “kitchen sink” version that proved both smooth and complex, the simple addition of coconut oil just prior to baking making an absolute world of difference.

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Remiss not to mention an impressive sugar cookie lent elegance by citrus in the batter and fruit on top, or likewise a cinnamon roll with matcha inspired by Juanny’s predilection for herbs infused to sweets, it was back to ‘farm to table’ for the morning’s final tastes, and although a savory scone of chili infused scallions topped in sharp cheddar was no doubt an impressive bite, my heart was quickly stolen by Sinead’s daily vegan tart, the same concord grapes from the previous stop’s galette here ascending to even greater heights with a fragrant floral finish.

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FIVE STARS: Already a mainstay of the coffee community, but not content to sit back and collect cash or accolades when it was felt something could be done to improve the quality of the brand, Juanny Romero and partner Joshua Walter have created something truly special off Green Valley Parkway and with two impassioned Chefs using classic techniques plus a touch of creativity to highlight the market’s best products the results speak for themselves and are currently second to none.

RECOMMENDED: Shepard’s Pie Pocket, Hazelnut Ho-Ho, Mocha, Concord Grape and Lavender Tart.

AVOID: N/A.

TIP: For those who cannot wait till 8am to get their caffeine and carbs, a limited selection of Mothership’s bakeries are available at Sunrise Coffee at 6am Weekdays, 7am Weekends, along with several muffins baked by Beth and Sinead but only offered at Sunrise.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://www.mothershipcoffee.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Henderson, Las Vegas, Mothership, Mothership Coffee, Mothership Coffee Roasters, Nevada

Sunrise Coffee, Las Vegas NV

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Sunrise Coffee

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Strawberry Corriander Muffin

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Banana Walnut Muffin

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Pineapple Cinnamon Roll

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Drip Coffee

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Visited occasionally in the past for coffee en route to the office, but overlooked for pastries as items were previously outsourced, a return visit to Sunrise Coffee was planned the moment rumor was heard that all muffins, cookies, and confections were now crafted by the team at sister-shop Mothership; plans to meet owner Juanny Romero at 9:00am just a mile down the street prompting an early stop that showed the brew as bold as ever while the relaxed vibe and free WiFi offered impetus to stick around and enjoy a trio of pastries crafted with top tier ingredients and balance bolstered by creativity as well as skill.

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A icon of the local coffee culture since 2008, and as such a veritable forefather to the current scene slowly creeping towards the Strip and Western Suburbs, Sunrise Coffee has long featured the locally roasted Mothership brand of beans and with fanciful lattes, espressos, cappuccinos, pour-overs, and presses available it was instead in a medium cup of drip that I invested, the effect of light roasting readily apparent even in the simplest option as fig and caramel tones coated the tongue.

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Moving on to pastries, each item individually plated by one of four friendly youngsters tasked with everything from barrista duties to crafting sandwiches from organic produce sourced from a farm in California, the glass case at Sunrise is a bit more straightforward than the counter of Mothership, but with some similarities and a focus on balanced flavors the only question becomes where best to invest one’s appetite, the seasonal cinnamon roll a good first choice as caramelized pineapple finds balance in light yeast with the sort of frosting that never seems cloying, but rather a semi-sweet delivery mechanism for the cinnamon and butter tones beneath.

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Passing on a scone that had previously wowed on Green Valley Parkway, instead choosing to focus on muffins exclusive to Sunrise, it was with bites of the strawberry and corriander iteration that the tasting progressed, and with a supple crumb and flavors that bridged savory to natural sweetness the follow-up was no less remarkable, the bitterness of dark walnuts proving an admirable foil to overripe bananas as homey autumnal notes rang through with aplomb.

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FOUR STARS: Now perhaps best judged as the casual sibling of brainy sister Mothership, Sunrise Coffee Roasters continues to turn out some of the city’s best brews, and for those looking to sit, sip, savor, and perhaps enjoy a sandwich there are few better places to do so in town.

RECOMMENDED: Banana Walnut Muffin, Strawberry Corriander Muffin.

AVOID: N/A, though if timed right the cinnamon rolls can be obtained hot from the oven for the same price at Mothership.

TIP: Open at 6am on Weekdays, 7am on weekends, with frequent deliveries of fresh pastries from Mothership throughout the day. Daily closure at 9pm and Drive-Thru available for those on the go.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://www.sunrisecoffeelv.com/

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Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Mothership, Mothership Coffee, Mothership Coffee Roasters, Nevada, Sunrise Coffee

Pizza Forte, Las Vegas NV

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Pizza Forte

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Pepperoni Slice

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Roman Slice

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All Beef Hotdog

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Cannoli

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Recently opened in Henderson, but already spawning a second location much closer to the family’s eponymous home base, it was at the recommendation of father Gino that our party of four jogged across Paradise to visit Mimmo at Pizza Forte in the Hard Rock Hotel, and with Pantera playing loudly as we walked through the lobby it would not be long before the younger Ferraro greeted us warmly, every seat in the house filled as a steady stream of clubbers and concert goers filtered through for fresh slices from the electric oven and hotdogs the team will tell you are the best in town.

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Already a hot-spot just six days into operation, the team turning out hand-tossed pies as needed into the wee hours of the night, Pizza Forte inhabits a shotgun space adjacent Nobu near the entrance to Rehab and with a short menu of Americana classics at expected Strip prices the effect of top-tier ingredients is immediately evident even before sinking teeth into the product, each slice glistening atop white marble while dogs, kielbasa, and sausages from Hofmann are presented on grilled rolls with a variety of condiments offered self-serve.

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Opting for two slices of pie, plus an all-beef dog that was snappy and slightly smoky even as a naked frank, Forte quickly enters discussion as the city’s best ‘slice,’ for although a touch oily as compared to that at Pop-Up at the Plaza the semolina infused crust is substantially more crispy without the slightest bit of charring, a remarkable feat that only serves to bolster the acid from a hand-crushed tomato sauce.

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Equally impressed by a puffy Roman slice, the mozzarella’s creaminess far more notable without pepperoni as diced tomatoes and shredded basil added texture plus a mellow herbal tinge, it was with a single cannoli that a favorable opinion of Forte was further cemented, the crisp shell filled to order with airy ricotta straight from the refrigerator with a steep price of $5.00 similar to that of Buddy’s version at Carlo’s Bakery, but without all the pre-filled sog and hour-plus wait.

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FOUR STARS: Obviously expensive compared to the slice shops sprinkled around Manhattan, but featuring a much higher quality product that most, Pizza Forte seems poised to mint money given its fanciful location – particularly considering the late night concert crowd and lack of other grab n’ go options within the Hard Rock Hotel.

RECOMMENDED: Roman Slice, Cannoli.

AVOID: N/A.

TIP: Open as late as 3am on weekends, and featuring everything from wine-in-a-box to bacon on the toppings bar – slices range $4.50 to $5.25 with additional costs for extra toppings while Hot Dogs start at $4.75 with a jumbo Jalapeno Sausage topping the menu at $8.75.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://www.pizza-forte.com/

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Posted in Dessert, Food, Italian, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pizza, Pizza Forte, Pork

Ferraro’s Restaurant & Wine Bar, Las Vegas NV

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Ferraro’s Italian Restaurant & Wine Bar

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Focaccia and Ciabatta with Olive Oil and Caponata

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Arancini with Truffles and Polpettine with Finger Fried Polenta

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Affettati e Formaggio – Imported Italian meat and cheeses, olives, marinated vegetables

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Spicy Eggplant

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Risotto Caprese – Italian Arborio rice, tomato, ricotta cheese, black olive powder

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Capellini Puttanesca – House made angel hair, fresh tomato sauce, black olives, capers, anchovies

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Gnocchi al Pesto – House made potato dumplings, creamy basil pesto sauce

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Agnolotti – House made ravioli filled with spinach, mascarpone, ricotta, mortadella, light tear-drop tomato sauce

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Artichoke Spaghetti with Brown Butter, Caviar, and Cinnamon

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Trippa Satriano – tripe in spicy tomato sauce

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Coniglio Brasato – Braised farm raised rabbit, sauteed spinach

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Osso Buco – Veal shank braised in red wine reduction served with farro

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Flourless Chocolate Cake, Chocolate Mousse, Strawberries

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Tiramisu

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Double Espresso on Ice

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Told that Mimo Ferraro’s recent focus on Pizza Forte had given way to a new Chef with skills set to further improve the cuisine at local legend Ferraro’s Italian Kitchen, it was with expectations of rustic Italian done ‘right’ that four friends sat down to dinner at the storied space on Paradise, and with top notch service that saw visits from both Chef Francesco di Caudo and Gino Ferraro the four-course family style tasting was everything that was anticipated, a few ‘gifts from the kitchen’ showing signs of things to come while classics came through loud and clear.

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In many ways a ‘locals’ spot, in part due to the heritage but also as result of location and Sin City’s celebrity chef culture, entrance to Ferraro’s is met by jovial greetings at the podium and with a bar plus outdoor patio on the left as the low-lit dining room sits to the right the feeling is at once familiar but also intimate – the white linens, candles, and rose on each table all building on an atmosphere less-and-less frequently seen in modern dining realm.

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Navigating a menu steeped in heritage, many ‘signatures’ outlined while seasonal notes decorate a large collection of house-made pastas, it was with a basket of warm bread with oil atop caponata that the two-and-a-half hour meal began and with a bottle of white from the well-priced list soon poured for some a duo of sliced truffle alongside meatballs and polenta proved a decadent opening duo, both notably available as part of the 4-7pm happy hour in the lounge at a fraction of the a la carte price.

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Transitioning to Antipasti, the well sourced Affettati e Formaggio was presented as a veritable bargain at $18 with mortadella, prosciutto, and speck all shining alongside crumbly Pecorino and rich Gorgonzola, but acknowledging that none of these items are made on-site the true star was actually bowl of Mrs. Ferraro’s sliced eggplant, an in-the-know sort of item served at the request of one diner that saw the oft-fried ingredient breathed new life through vinegar, sugar, and black pepper – each bite delicious on its own, but all the moreso when used taken as a poignant foil to the charcuterie’s meaty sapor.

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Joking that an Italian Tasting Menu mostly means the chef will send out more pasta, round three featured a quartet of primi plated tasting-style by the kitchen plus a bowl of pasta created at the Sicilian Chef’s whim, and although the risotto unfortunately came off a bit undercooked the four house-made noodles were undoubtedly amongst the best in the city, the signature Puttanesca not nearly as briny as one may guess from the ingredients while both gnocchi and agnolotti were tender bites of decadence, the artichoke pasta marrying discrepant flavors with brown butter a truly dynamic dish that hopefully represents a sign of evolution from a kitchen already well versed in the things it has long done well.

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Sticking entirely to signatures for secondi it would seem obvious that no meal at Ferraro’s should end without the city’s most storied Osso Buco, and carved tableside by Gino with no more than a fork and spoon the tender meat in rich wine was just as good as rumor would have it, a compliment no less applicable to juicy braised rabbit served alongside lemony wilted spinach or the best tripe dish I’ve encountered stateside in quite some time, each supple bite rife rife with texture while the spicy sauce served to highlight the offal’s intrinsic flavor rather than hide it like so many others.

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Perhaps mistakenly allowing the kitchen to decide upon dessert it was with a rather mundane chocolate cake that the evening was originally set to end, but having heard rumor of a tiramisu not to be missed a slice was requested along with four spoons, the sizable $12 wedge every bit as textbook as the menu’s other classics with a delicate balance of mascarpone and cinnamon overlying feather-light ladyfingers ever so faintly accented with coffee and a the slightest hint of liquor.

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THREE AND A HALF STARS: Undoubtedly earning its accolades over the course of thirty years serving natives and tourists alike it seems safe to say that the future of Ferraro’s is in good hands under the watch of Chef di Caudo, a bit of new blood in the kitchen perhaps just what is needed to see the restaurant add much needed modernity to the time honored classics of its past.

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RECOMMENDED: Arancini with Truffles, Capellini Puttanesca, Trippa Satriano, Coniglio Brasato, Spicy Eggplant.

AVOID: Risotto was unfortunately undercooked while the Chocolate Cake, not currently listed on the menu, was rather forgettable.

TIP: Offering both Happy Hour and Late Night Menus with several items and glasses of wine for as much as half off there are certainly deals to be found, the Chef’s promise of an upcoming tasting menu an additional dining option while several events and wine dinners can already be found on the the restaurant’s list of events.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

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Posted in #testkitchen, Bread Basket, Coffee, Dessert, Ferraro's, Ferraro's Restaurant, Ferraro's Restaurant & Wine Bar, Food, Gnocchi, Italian, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork, Tiramisu, Truffle

Valerio’s Tropical Bake Shop, Las Vegas NV

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Valerio’s Tropical Bake Shop

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Cheese Flower

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Ube Flower

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Turon

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Kalamay Ube

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Hopia Mongo

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Cheese Roll

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For those making an effort to see some of the city’s ethnic bakeries Valerio’s Tropical Bake Shop on East Maryland Parkway is easily overlooked given a location tucked away next to Seafood City, but with a strong local clientele of Filipino’s frequently filling the small space a first look showed the goods to actually fare quite well, though service proved perfunctory while the haphazard layout is likely to annoy any with even the slightest degree of claustrophobia, OCD, or any sense of Feng Shui.

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Cited more than once by the health department for concerns of food handling, but recently implementing standards to prevent such things according to one of the store’s owners, it was around 4:45pm that a visit was made to the bakery and with some items tasted immediately with others preserved for breakfast the next day a total of six items were selected, the total tallying a mere $10.90 with an extra Turon thrown in as a gift, the freshly fried pastry a touch oily on the surface but undeniably delicious as banana presented creamy and molten within.

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Having spent some time watching locals make their purchases in order to decide what was best, or at least most popular, subsequent tastes of Valerio’s goods continued to show restrained sweetness amidst soft textures, and although the long loaf was little more than bleached flour with a stick of cream cheese beneath frosting both the ‘cheese flower’ and sibling smeared with purple yam were yeasty pillows packed with natural flavors, a similar dough seemingly featured in several prepackaged bulk items with fillings of red beans, mango, and nuts.

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Going ‘off-the-board’ for the rest of the order, neither item selected by any in the line of fifteen before me, those looking for something a bit savory would be well advised to take a look at the package marked Hopia Mongo, each two-bite morsel chock-a-block full of pureed yellow beans beneath a flaky golden shell, and for those who want something truly unique the Kalamay Ube should fulfill any such desires, the tray of dark purple sweet rice offering a flavor not unlike sweet potato pie with a container of toasted coconut adding just enough nuance to keep the taffy-like texture from getting boring with later bites.

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THREE STARS: Not as well stocked as some of the Asian bakeries on Spring Mountain, nor some of the other traditional ethic shops like Manan, Valerio’s is a worthwhile stop for those interested in unique Filipino confections with prices that are wallet friendly even if you’re not quite sure whether you’ll love what you buy.

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RECOMMENDED: Turon, Ube Flower, Hopia Mongo.

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AVOID: Cheese Roll.

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TIP: Monday to Sunday, 8a-10p.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

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Posted in Bread Basket, Breakfast, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Valerio's, Valerio's Tropical Bake Shop

Island Flavor, Las Vegas NV

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Island Flavor

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Half-Pound Furikake Style Poke

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Spam Musubi

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Chicken Katsu and Kalua Pig mixed plate

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Kalbi Short Ribs and Furikake Shrimp mixed plate

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Roast Pork Loco Moco

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Banana Bread Pudding

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Chantilly Cake

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Guava Cake

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Haupia Cake

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Kona Coffee Ice Cream Mud Pie

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No doubt a neophyte regarding Hawaiian culture as well as cuisine it was with two friends that I sat down amidst the spacious confines of Island Flavor for dinner Saturday night, and going in with modest expectations based on what could be gleaned from reviews of those more accustomed the results were at times precisely what I’d hoped for, and occasionally far better than I’d originally been led to believe.

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Admittedly at least ‘familiar’ with some of the styles comprising the genre, a number of Asian influences noted amidst fried and roast meats with rich sauces rarely lacking in salt, it was just moments after 5:15 that I entered the sparsely decorated space and with the room half-filled by a mix of ethnicities that included several island natives it would not be long before drinks were filled and menus were navigated, a three-course feast soon to follow as light mid-tempo music echoed from speakers overhead.

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Well trained in service, the majority of the staff clearly longtime employees of the restaurant and happy to answer questions related to portions as well as preparation, it was with a duo of cultural staples that the sampling of Island Flavors began, and although neither would have been a preferred order if dining on my own both the snappy tuna and Spam Musubi proved mostly what was anticipated, the former loaded with umami while the later, perhaps fortunately, saw the saline pork product mostly lost within the roll of warm rice.

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Warned that portions run large despite costs that hover around $10 per plate, it was onward to three entrees that the evening progressed, and although the fried shrimp were a bit overcooked while the chicken was mostly flavorless without sauce, one would be hard pressed to find any fault in either the smoky shortrib or tender kalua pig, an equally well cooked piece of pork found strewn amidst rice beneath two sunny-side eggs and a rich brown gravy that, on its own, could have likely served a family of four.

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Leaving at least four cups of rice behind, along with a few bites of macaroni salad that was actually quite enjoyable with plenty of creaminess packed in each bite, it was with an “all-in” approach that sweets were ordered up, and despite warnings and raised eyebrows from more than one staff-member the finale to follow was almost entirely worth the indulgence, the $5.50 Mud Pie a bit of a disappointment due to gritty ice cream while each cake from nearby Andrea’s was presented at a bargain $5 per large slice, the faintly coconut Haupia not unlike something one might find at a wedding while the chantilly and guava came across sweet yet balanced, the quivering bread pudding taking a far less subtle approach with each banana-packed spoonful making a strong case for best in the city, or at the very least a good reason to come back.

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THREE AND A HALF STARS: Purporting no expertise in Hawaiian cuisine, but hoping to learn more in the coming months and years, Island Flavor represents a tremendous bargain to those looking for something familiar yet different with service and setting far superior to most eateries broadly grouped as ‘ethnic,’ the desserts a particular strong point even if they are mostly outsourced.

RECOMMENDED: Kalbi Short Ribs, Roast Pork Loco Moco, Banana Bread Pudding, Chantilly Cake.

AVOID: Chicken Katsu, Kona Coffee Ice Cream Mud Pie.

TIP: Daily specials are featured on a paper addition to the menu and change depending on availabilty as well as the Chef’s whim.

ADDITIONAL TIP: As of this writing construction has made a northerly approach somewhat cumbersome, so those planning on a specific arrival time would be well advised to leave a few extra minutes travel time, just to be safe.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://www.islandflavor808.com/

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Posted in Bread Pudding, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Island Flavor, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork

#testkitchen at Artisanal Foods, Las Vegas NV

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#TestKitchen at Artisanal Foods

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Roasted Rainbow Radishes and Whipped Pancetta

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Early Girl Tomatoes, Peaches, Green Gazpacho and Espelette Spheres

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Tuscan Bean Soup – Cranberry Beans, Broad Beans, Zucchini, Carrots, Onion, Celery, Dehydrated Peels

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Rice Flour Frito Misto – Corn Fritters, Tomatillos, Okra, with Meyer Lemon Aioli

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Tasting of Caviars

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Pancakes and Foie Gras – Icicle Grapes, Champagne Grapes, Raisins on the Vine, Wine Glaze

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Chicken Thigh with Mushroom Bread Pudding – Black Truffle, Pan Jus

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GLT – Guanciale, Lettuce, Tomato

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Lamb Sliders – Tzatziki, Harissa Tomato Jam

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Brioche with Cherry Vanilla Compote from Le Suquet

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Recently completing his contract at MTO Cafe it was only a matter of time before Chef Johnny Church found a new outlet for the considerable skills honed at some of The Strip’s best spots, and whether the result of serendipity or plain old luck a partnership with Artisanal Foods owner Brett Ottolenghi has given way to a concept currently titled #testkitchen, the pair of Midwesterners offering up some of the city’s best ingredients cooked in tasting menu format to a lucky handful at lunch with even bigger things soon to come.

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No doubt in its early stages, the recently relocated shop on Pama a substantial upgrade in size as well as potential with live tanks, a warehouse, and a demonstration kitchen in which plans are set for everything from pop-up dinners to cooking classes in addition to a cafe set to open ‘soon,’ it was at the behest of Chef Church that myself and three local writers sat down at a long table and deferring to the chef as well as Mr. Ottolenghi for everything but booze and jam brought from our homes the resultant eight course tasting with additional caviar service proved the sort of experience that Las Vegas sorely needs, a ‘dinner party’ sort of atmosphere not unlike those offered at London’s Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs or stateside in cities like Santa Ana where concepts like Playground 2.0 continue to evolve and wow.

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At this time consisting of one table in the Artisanal Food atrium, the kitchen on one side and the rest of the store on the other, it was after a brief tour of the new store that service from John, Brett, and two-others would begin and with conversation as well as wine flowing the first bites were presented in the form of spicy radishes atop whipped pancetta, the brine and bite in perfect balance and a bold introduction to the produce that followed, the tomato and stonefruit salad served alongside a complex soup featuring the flavors of sea beans, spinach, basil, and fennel pollen with a light linger of melon on the swallow.

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Progressing with good pace, the meal soon joined by three ciders from Mr. Ottolenghi’s Pennsylvania family farm, course three saw an earthy bean soup lent levity by sweet crisps of dried peels while the followup of Gluten Free Frito Misto arrived perfectly crisp and virtually oilless, even the okra offered up as snappy little bites beneath the rice flower while a sidecar of Meyer Lemon Aioli saw little go to waste.

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Taking a break in the tasting to sample some of Artisanal Foods’ selection of fine caviar, Brett proving a fount of knowledge about everything from province to crossbreeds and indoor vs. outdoor cultivation, the menu resumed with the sort of thing seemingly made for such a venue, and pairing three types of grapes with pancakes and seared duck liver it seemed almost impossible when course six arrived featuring a pounded thigh of Mary’s Free Range chicken served crispy atop mushroom bread pudding that fared even better.

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At this point more than a little impressed by not only exemplary ingredients, but also the skills that saw each one coaxed to its utmost potential without once straying far from the boundaries of classic technique, the final savories of the afternoon featured a duo of sandwiches, the answer to which was best largely a matter of ones personal tastes as the GLT spoke to the sapor of cured pork tucked inside a buttered roll while the slider offered the grass-fed gaminess of New Zealand lamb mellowed amidst cool Tzatziki and harissa-spiced tomato jam.

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Rounding out the meal with soft brioche from a local bakery topped with cherry-vanilla confiture imported from the garden of Michel and Sebastien Bras it should go without saying that rarely has a lunch of such caliber been had in the city of Las Vegas, but with the shared passion of Church and Ottolenghi one hopes this will be the first of many, that perhaps the time has finally come.

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N/A: Obviously unable to fairly assess a meal that presented more like a dinner party with friends than the sort of dining experience a typical customer is likely to find, suffice it to say that when the yet unnamed cafe at Artisinal Foods finally does open to the public there is little doubt the experience will be one to seek out.

RECOMMENDED: Trust the Chef.

AVOID: N/A.

TIP: While plans are yet to be finalized, an opening date of early September has been suggested with a fixed-price “ticketing” system and BYOB alcohol policy likely to present absolute bargain to those lucky enough to secure a seat.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://www.artisanalfoods.com/

Posted in #testkitchen, #testkitchen at Artisanal Foods, Artisanal Foods, Dessert, Foie, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pancakes, Pork, Tasting Menu, Truffle

O Face Doughnuts [2,] Las Vegas NV

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O-Face Doughnuts

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Made to Order – Sausage, Eggs, Green Chile Cheese Sauce

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Pina Colada Fritter (V)

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Cherry Pistachio (V)

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PB&J

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Crème Fraiche Glazed

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Chocolate Glazed

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Rosewater Pistachio

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Hibiscus Tea Glazed

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Dark Chocolate (V)

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Coconut (V)

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Orange Boston Cream

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S’Mores

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NY Cheesecake

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Captain Crunch Cereal

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Maple Bacon

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Mexican Hot Chocolate with Horchata Pudding

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Located on the corner of 6th and Carson for just a little over a year it was on the invitation of owner Sonny Ahuja that a return visit was finally made to DTLV’s O Face Doughnuts, and having heard recently that the quality of both product and service had improved substantially since opening it was with the owner himself that I sat down for a quartet of pastry chef Crystal Whitford’s newest inspirations, a boxed dozen of Classics additionally taken to a later gathering with friends.

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Undoubtedly a polarizing space amongst Las Vegans in search of fried dough, the accolades sung by many ‘foodies’ and chefs balanced by reviews from those who find the product greasy or simply not their style, it was with mixed feelings from my first visit that I sat down to talk with Sonny as Chef Whitford worked double duty as barista for a steady crowd, and discussing the challenges of operating such a business downtown while sipping a bold cold-brew sourced from Seattle the passion of each for the concept was plainly evident, the “difficult” choice to change oils from an original canola base eliciting a bit of ire when I, too, admitted that the original version did indeed come off as oily, or at least over-fried.

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At this point having found their rhythm, the shelves fully stocked on my 8:30 arrival with four young staff members hard at work mixing, frying, and glazing several more pastries to replete those going out as part of a large delivery it was with three items suggested by Sonny that the tasting began, and starting out with two ‘fork and knife’ rounds one would be hard pressed to decide which seasonal special was more impressive – the PB&J a cake-based work with surprising levity to the interior cream while the Vegan friendly Cherry Pistachio shined with cherry jam beneath a glaze studded with fresh nuts, the results a fine balance of sweet and savory that tasted extremely natural with the fluffy dough punctuated by the pistachio’s light crunch.

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Continuing the conversation as the kitchen fried a made-to-order breakfast doughnut that arrived piping hot with spicy chili cheese still molten around eggs and sausage it was in the Pina Colada fritter that I indulged, and a far cry from the oily composition of apple and bacon experienced just weeks after O-Face originally opened the results were instead a textbook take on the oldschool East-Coast fritter with a crisp exterior overlying a lightly leavened pillow, the flavor of pineapple offering just a hint of sweetness while mellow coconut tones were amplified without being over-the-top.

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Taking the rest of the doughnuts to go, a Chef selected box with six “In Hand” and the same number of “Fork and Knife” classics sampled surrounding a lunch with friends both old and new, suffice it to say that that those fancying filled donuts would be well advised to visit O-Face for their fix, for as much as the simple glazed rings were pleasant, if not memorable, one would be hard pressed to name a better place for fillings anywhere outside of the goods at So.Cal’s SideCar, the cereal milk pudding inside the Cap’n Crunch everything the description would suggest while both the horchata and cheesecake were rich yet restrained in sweetness, the award winning Maple Bacon one-upping anything offered from elsewhere as tones of pure maple syrup proved a welcome relieve to the cloying artificial tastes offered from the supposed inventors at Voodoo to anywhere within the (702.)

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FOUR STARS: Still not the place one should set their coordinates for simple classics, but without a doubt the best ‘artisan’ doughnuttery within a hundred miles of Sin City, O-Face Doughnuts has come a long way since opening day and with promises of more seasonal variations plus potential improvements to the coffee program soon to come there is little doubt those unamused previously owe Sonny and Crystal a second chance while first-timers are likely to wonder exactly where ‘greasy’ comments were hatched.

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RECOMMENDED: Filled options all trend strong with the Cherry Pistachio, Captain Crunch Cereal, Maple Bacon, and Mexican Hot Chocolate with Horchata Pudding all showing particularly well – a comment equally offered to the Pina Colada Fritter that should be a ‘must’ for anyone fancying the cocktail or a crispy fritter in the classic East-Coast style.

AVOID: Generally fancying cake doughnuts over simple ‘raised and glazed’ iterations, the value simply isn’t there for $1.25 “in-hand” selections that lack the classic appeal of a place like Friendly in Henderson or ACE on Tropicana, though there is little doubt the ingredient quality outstrips both.

TIP: Open at 7am on weekdays and 8am on weekends with delivery options as noted on the website, seasonal varieties subject to change.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://www.ofacedoughnuts.com/

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Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, O Face, O Face Donuts, O Face Doughnuts, Pork

Lou’s Diner, Las Vegas NV

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Lou’s Diner

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Coffee

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Housemade Cinnamon Roll

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Flapjacks

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Monte Cristo

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Banana Cream Pie

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Lemon Cake

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Located on Decatur and feeding locals for decades under the watchful eye of its eponymous owner, Lou’s Diner is the sort of place one could drive by one hundred times without even a second thought, and yet with prices a fraction of those just a few miles east plus the sort of old-timey service guaranteed to leave a smile on every face the spacious spot is perhaps the very definition of diamond in the rough.

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Certainly not upscale, and not exactly sporting much curb appeal in the back of a complex near Arizona Charlies and the Charleston Antique Mall, a visit to Lou’s Diner is the sort that starts with a bit of skepticism about what will be found inside, but greeted with warm smiles and walls decorated with every sort of nick-knack imaginable the scene unfolds much like any similar spot in middle America, though in this case several-fold cleaner with a specials board complimenting a well-culled menu of breakfasts, soups, sandwiches, and more.

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Seating perhaps sixty, and soon to reach half-capacity about thirty minutes after a 6:45am arrival, it was after short perusal that decisions were made from the all-day options, and with jokes made that “you must real hungry” from the waitress it was with the second of about thirty coffee warm-ups that she departed, a curious Lou and her spouse stopping by inquisitively to ask why pictures were being taken before offering to lead me around the and show off the map of where all their visitors had come from – the wall of mismatched mugs belonging to “regulars” an appropriate amenity as nearly every other diner was greeted by name by the staff nearly the moment they opened the front door.

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Ordering with a request for items to be brought as ready it would not be long before the Housemade Cinnamon Roll arrived beneath a ladle of of sweetened cream cheese, and with a core rife with cinnamon plus plenty of yeastiness acting to offset the richness the results spoke to old-school craftsmanship without a whole lot of fuss, a similar style employed in two desserts enjoyed later that day in the form of a moist lemon layer cake and banana cream pie that was unfortunately a bit short on fruit but still quite flavorful with a pudding base beneath a mountain of whipped cream.

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Assuredly a place with skilled line-cooks, on this particular morning a trio working at great pace with plates coming through the window every couple minutes, course two arrived shortly after the last of the frosting was scraped from the cinnamon roll plate and quickly eschewing pseudo-syrup in favor of pure maple goodness brought from home the thin flapjacks proved fluffy and full of buttermilk while the Monte Cristo finally answered the question of where to find an authentic iteration in the (702) – each deep fried bite packed with ham and turkey bursting forth with flavor beneath two gooey cheeses, a powdered sugar sprinkling and spread of strawberry jam seeing the Diner-classic complete.

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THREE AND A HALF STARS: Easily overlooked in favor of familiar chains, local groups slowly expanding their brand, and fanciful new spots on The Strip, Lou’s Diner is a throwback to ‘greasy spoons’ speckled across America – a place that feels familiar, friendly, and full of nostalgia with the sort of food that is at-worst straightforward, and otherwise genuinely delicious and authentic.

RECOMMENDED: Monte Cristo, Lemon Cake, Cinnamon Roll.

AVOID: The Banana Cream Pie was a bit of a letdown given the lack of fruit, but still quite the slice for a mere $3.55.

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TIP: Open at 5:30am daily with specials announced by dry-erase boards over the counter.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

Click to add a blog post for Lou's Diner on Zomato

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Lou's Diner, Nevada, Pancakes, Pork

Japeneiro Asian Infusion, Las Vegas NV

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Japaneiro

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Rock Shrimp Tempura

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Japaneiro Special Fried Rice

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Baby Octopus

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Truffle Marrow Filet

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Japanese Uni Chawamushi

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6oz Nigerian Prawn with Yuzu-Wasabi

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6oz Nigerian Prawn with Uni Butter

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6oz Nigerian Prawn with Truffle Butter

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Yuzu Coconut Mochi with Genmacha Ice Cream

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Tiramisu

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Banana Harumaki

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Hoji Cha Ice Cream

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Designated as an Asian “Fusion” restaurant, and tucked inside an out-of-the-way strip mall with a former chef from Nobu manning the small kitchen, Japaneiro has received quite a bit of praise since opening earlier this year and sitting down with two friends in the small space where Taylor Swift, Maroon 5, and Kanye West boomed overhead the results proved an underwhelming mixed bag – the Strip-side pricing rarely in step with the quality of the product served across nearly a dozen plates.

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Admittedly a ‘locals-only’ sort of spot, and removed from Spring Mountain a bit of a novelty considering the locale, entry to Japaneiro sees the diner face-to-face with the kitchen and flanked with enough seating for a total of just thirty the service trends friendly without really being transparent, a limited laminated menu joined by several chalkboard specials that are detailed with limited explanation while costs are even more obscured – several numbers written next the name of an ingredient with the staff not really going out of their way to describe the upcharges or price per serving.

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Sipping water and iced green tea, both provided with copious refills at no cost throughout the course of a ninety minute stay, it was in three rounds that orders were placed after asking a few questions and beginning with two modestly priced menu items the first bites of lightly battered shrimp in spicy cream sauce offered a brief glimmer of hope, the house ‘special’ fried rice tossed with beef, shrimp, and pork a competent rendition, but certainly nothing to write home about.

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Moving next to several specials, three baby octopi were next presented with a good char and snappy flesh beneath light citrus at a cost of $4 each and although the nicely seared filet dramatically draped over a delicious charred marrow bone was indeed a dramatic presentation, the $34 surcharge for flavors marred in cheap truffle oil were still quite excessive – the use of the oil additionally making one wonder what other shortcuts the kitchen may be willing to take.

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Thoroughly underwhelmed by watery Chawanmushi carrying an upcharge of $13 from the five dollar base due to the addition of one meager tongue of Japanese Uni, it was onward to prawns that the meal progressed, and with confusing menu pricing seemingly the rule than the exception each “6oz” Nigerian specimen carried a unique charge ranging $23-$28, all but the yuzu and wasabi-tinged cheapest featuring the crustacean overcooked and more than a little tricky to liberate from its shell with the use of only chopsticks, spoon, and fork.

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Seemingly offering a bargain with desserts, and at this point certainly nowhere near full despite the eventual tab of $75 per person, suffice it to say that neither the tiramisu or mochi are particularly memorable save for the high price per bite, and although the Banana Harumaki with $3 ice-cream supplement was admittedly well made with creamy fruit tinged in sweet cheese beneath the lightest of shells it still was not enough to save the meal from regrets of not going elsewhere, a situation admittedly unexpected and leaving one to wonder what others see in this place that the group clearly missed.

TWO STARS: Priced on par with Raku, or even some places located within casinos on South Las Vegas Boulevard, Japaneiro would have proven a better experience at half the volume and 2/3 the cost, marred by slipshod execution and the sort of ambiance that almost instantly makes one want to get up and leave even the assumption that the group may have “ordered wrong” or “suffered an off night” provides little impetus to give the space a second chance to shine.

RECOMMENDED: Banana Harumaki with Hoji Cha Ice Cream, Rock Shrimp Tempura.

AVOID: Prawns, Upcharges.

TIP: Open at 4pm with Happy Hour until 6. No liquor license as yet, so byo may present good savings to some.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

Click to add a blog post for Japaneiro Asian Infusion on Zomato

Posted in Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Japaneiro, Japaneiro Asian Infusion, Las Vegas, Nevada, Octopus, Tiramisu, Truffle

Yardbird Southern Table & Bar [8,] Las Vegas NV

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Yardbird Southern Table & Bar

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Fried Green Tomato BLT – Pork Belly, Greens, Tomato Jam, Pimento Cheese

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Deviled Eggs with Redneck Caviar, Fresh Dill, Smoked Trout Roe

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Mama’s Ham n’ Cheese Biscuits – Virginia Country Ham, Vermont Sharp Cheddar, House Pickles

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Mama’s Brisket Biscuits – House Smoked Brisket, BBQ Sauce

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Wedge Salad – House Cured Bacon, Avocado, Corn, Yogurt Dressing

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Shrimp n’ Grits – Florida shrimp, crisp Virginia ham, Nora Mill Granary grits

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Chicken n’ Watermelon n’ Waffles – Fried Chicken, Hot Sauce Honey, Spiced Watermelon, Cheddar Cheese Chow Chow Waffle, Bourbon Maple Syrup

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Short Rib n’ Grits – 18oz Bone-In Short Rib, Nora Mill Granary Corn Grits, Charred Corn, Haricot Vert, Sweet Garlic Bordelaise

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Buttermilk Biscuits – Honey Butter, Apple Butter

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Charred Green Beans – Hickory Smoked Yogurt and Almond Vinaigrette

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Heirloom Tomatoes – House Made Ricotta

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Carrots – Brown Butter and Cumin

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Maple Glazed Bacon Brioche Donuts – Bacon Bits, Butterscotch Sauce

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Bacon-Butterscotch Cake with Bacon Frosting, Pecan Pie Filling, and Bourbon Bacon Ice Cream

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Crunch n’ Munch Bread Pudding, Popcorn Ice Cream

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Cornmeal Chess Pie – Sorghum Chantilly, Caramel Sauce, Caramel Pretzel, Popcorn

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Deep Fried Oreos – Rice Crispy Doughnut Dough Fried Oreos, Oreo Ice Cream, Chocolate Sauce

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Yardbird Banana Split – Caramel Popcorn Ice Cream, Vanilla Ice Cream, Banana Brulee, Banana Curd, Chocolate Sauce

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Chocolate Chess Pie – Chocolate Chips, Orange Blossom Ice Cream, Citrus Marmalade, Chocolate Sauce

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Hummingbird Cake – Cream Cheese Icing, Caramelized Pineapple, Banana Pecan Ice Cream

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Strawberry Shortcake – Vanilla Cake, Strawberry Ice Cream, Vanilla Ice Cream, Sorgum Chantilly, Orange Strawberry Sauce

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S’mores brownie – Charred Marshmallow, Graham Cracker Ice Cream, Hot Chocolate Sauce

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At this point averaging a meal a month since Yardbird opened up, it was with five friends in town from Los Angeles plus a trio of locals that I sat down in the private room once again for brunch, and treated to a Chef’s tasting including several items from the upcoming menu update the results once again spoke to a passionate team utilizing the very best proteins and produce to turn out Southern staples amongst the country’s very best.

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Having already detailed much about the scene, décor, along with service in past reviews, and undeniably a known entity to the staff even with Chef Melvin Johnson looking after us as Todd Harrington enjoyed some well deserved time off, the decision to defer entirely to the team came at the admittedly low cost of $50 per person and starting off with a few signature bites before a duo of biscuits arrived the menu’s first new bites were both quite excellent, the former featuring paper thin ham laced with aged cheddar and a housemade pickle while the later trended a touch sweet from the housemade sauce, the brisket itself epitomizing the effect of slow smoking on beef lightly rimmed in fat.

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Attempting to graze lightly on a wedge salad that sees house-cured lardons mellowed by avocado, sweet corn, and tangy yogurt dressing, the follow-ups of Shrimp and Grits, Chicken and Waffles, plus Las Vegas’ best Shortribs would present a similar trio to the meal in March, and joined by three new sides plus eight more biscuits the seasonal influences were readily apparent, each bursting tomato nicely accented with light acid beneath house-made ricotta while smoked yogurt proved absolutely brilliant atop snappy green beans, the cumin scented carrots a favorite of most as light spices highlighted the natural sweetness of the produce, though bites were admittedly limited considering the promise of several desserts to come.

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At this point convinced that Vivian Lee and her pastry team are the hardest working crew in all of the 702, it was to a thorough degustation of items old and new that the table was treated to end the day, and with three new items joining seven experienced prior the only real questions were where to start and how full one wanted to end up, the Chess Pie still absolutely dazzling while the Hummingbird Cake was a perfect update on the pineapple laced favorite, a shortcake riffing on an ice cream sandwich wowing the palates of many while the dark chocolate brownie topped in house-smoked marshmallows was entirely indulgent even before being gilded with molten hot chocolate.

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Unable to Fairly Rate, though Five Stars Sounds Right: Unabashedly a fan of almost everything tasted at Yardbird to date, and excited to see what is to come when the new menu is finally hatched, there is little doubt that a ninth meal is just around the corner…and likely a tenth, eleventh, and twelfth after that.

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RECOMMENDED: Mama’s Ham n’ Cheese Biscuits, Fried Green Tomato BLT, Chicken n’ Watermelon n’ Waffles, Short Rib n’ Grits, Carrots, Cornmeal Chess Pie, Hummingbird Cake, Strawberry Shortcake.

AVOID: If one were to nitpick, I guess the tomatoes may have benefitted from a bit of finishing salt while the brisket biscuits could have a touch less sweet to let natural smokiness shine.

TIP: As yet awaiting print, new lunch, brunch, dinner, and dessert menus are due any day.

Homepage

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Posted in Bread Basket, Bread Pudding, Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork, Waffles, Yardbird, Yardbird Southern Table & Bar, Yardbird Southern Table and Bar

Mothership Coffee Roasters, Henderson NV

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Mothership Coffee Roasters

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Nitrous Coffee

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Strawberry Balsamic Tart

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Concord Grape and Almond Galette

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Blueberry Glaze Cinnamon Roll

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Coconut Pineapple Scone

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Chocolate Chip and Rye Cookie

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Gluten Free Oatmeal Cranberry Cookie

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Peach and Oat Crumble Pie

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Chocolate Brownie Cake

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Owned by Juanny Romero and Joshua Walter of Sunrise Coffee fame, with organic fair-trade beans roasted on premises and the sort of baked goods that reference the quality of spots from Brooklyn to PDX, Mothership Coffee Roasters represents a paradigm shift in the ‘Las Vegas’ java landscape…even if the Green Valley Parkway address is in fact located in Henderson, the results already justifying the praise and even a trip from the far reaches of the valley’s more fanciful Northwest ‘burbs.

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Already making a name for themselves since 2008 with a seasonal lineup of espresso shots and brews served at Sunrise while their beans also form the base of cups served at restaurants including Natalie Young’s eat. downtown, it would seem fair to say that Romero and Walter have succeeded where several others have failed in trying to make Las Vegas an independent sort of coffee town and with the new shop offering a full view of roasters as well as the kitchen the experience itself is perhaps even more ‘craft’ than that at Four Barrel, Stumptown, or La Colombe – all of which outsource their pastry to local bakeries with far less creativity despite beans that are equally well sourced.

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Small in size, but cozy in décor with baristas that know more than a thing or two about not only pulling shots but the diversity of products on the shelves, a visit to Mothership no doubt begins with the coffee and offering several basics plus a locally sourced chocolate mocha those interested in something truly unique are encouraged to order up a nitro-infused cold brew, the market-price item based on whatever is best from the single origin selections without only the slightest acidity and mouthfeel bolstered by light carbonation, each 10oz cup pulled from a tap complete with a creamy head.

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Speaking next to pastries, and definitely the sort of goods that are likely to garner conversation in a city long lacking for any sort of artisan movement, Mothership features the work of not one but two young chefs, and with one woman working on reinterpreted classics while the other focuses on Vegan and gluten free items the selections run the gamut from sweet to savory with nearly every item tasted nothing short of impressive – even a snappy gluten free Oatmeal Cranberry Cookie proving quite boldly flavored despite the intrinsic limitations of its ingredients rendering it a touch dry.

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Stated as being ‘farm to table’ by the barista, and attempting as best as possible to focus on locally sourced organic goods whenever they can, all Mothership baking is done on premises and with muffins shipped to Sunrise the seasonal selections behind glass show the sort of flavors far more likely to intrigue, the Strawberry Balsamic Tart and Concord Grape with Almond Galette both breathing new life into timeless classics with all-natural fruit purees atop flaky golden crusts while a supple blueberry cinnamon roll offered an equally fruity flavor, though perhaps not showing quite as well as it may have had it been served warm.

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Functioning almost as an atelier, where staff members opinions are sought in crafting new items based on ingredients and whims, further tastes of item including a fruit and butter-pocketed Coconut Pineapple Scone and chewy Chocolate Chip and Rye Cooke showed an adept hand for spinning convention into something new without compromising texture or taste, and although perhaps a bit more ‘traditional’ than the rest both the Peach and Oat Crumble Pie as well as the Chocolate Brownie Cake were absolute steals at $4/each, the former the very picture of summer with near super-saturation of stonefruit while the later walked a tightrope between brownie and fudge, each rich bite the sort of thing that will no doubt see those dining in ordering up another freshly brewed cup of joe.

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FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Opening in a similar timeframe to DTLV’s PublicUS, but doing on-site roasting and offering far more baked goods at a similar pricepoint with equal or more impressive results, it seems as though Sin City is on the cusp of an artisan coffee revolution some have long desired, and if early bites of Mothership are any indication it seems as though the competition will be fun to watch while best may be yet to come.

RECOMMENED: Nitro Cold Brew, Concord Grape and Almond Galette, Coconut Pineapple Scone, Peach and Oat Crumble Pie.

AVOID: Though good for a gluten-free product, the oatmeal cranberry cookie is best saved for those harboring an allergy, or those choosing to adhere to that lifestyle considering the quality of everything else.

TIP: Tucked next to Trader Joes and open 8am to 6pm weekdays while closing at 4pm on weekends, Mothership features most items fresh on shelves just shortly after opening with a few more added throughout the day. Those interested in specific selections are encouraged to call in advance given the menu’s seasonal focus as well as the small batch baking which often sees more popular items sell out before noon.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://mothershipcoffee.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Henderson, Las Vegas, Mothership, Mothership Coffee, Mothership Coffee Roasters, Motheship, Nevada

Pink Box Doughnuts, Henderson NV

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Pink Box Henderson

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Date with a Nutty Pig

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Orange Marmalade

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Apple Pie Fritter

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Buttermilk Bar

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Maple Old Fashioned

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Blueberry Cronut

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Dropping a friend off early at McCarran and finding Flour & Grounds Bakery apparently already shuttered it was to Las Vegas favorite Pink Box’s Henderson location that I turned for breakfast and arriving just after 7:40 with the kitchen still baking the results proved to be the best experienced from the doughnuttery since my first visit to the Lake Meade location just weeks after its original opening.

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Ever a pleasant operation, the young female staff here as smiley and polite as the other locations decorating the valley, Pink Box Henderson offers the same large selection of flavors and styles as that which is found Northwest, and having already sampled much of the stores wares on my last three visits it was in a few new items as well as old favorites that appetite was invested, the $9 tab proving quite fair.

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Starting first with classics, a buttermilk bar and sourcream old fashioned topped with maple glaze that trends far more natural than other places around, time seems to have improved Pink Box’s cook times and with far less grease than average both items were amongst the best to be found in the city, the Apple Fritter unfortunately still less crisp than one would prefer though certainly not oily and absolutely rife with both fruit and spice.

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Generally excelling at filled offerings while simple yeasted and frosted versions have, in the past, seemed a bit doughy as a result of the brioche-style base, it was with the celebrated “Nutty Pig” that the tasting continued and with the blue cheese and balsamic even more poignant this time around the Pink Box signature remains one of those ‘destination’ items, the weekly special of Orange Marmalade offering another complex taste with the slightly bitter jam offset by custard filling and piped stars of cream.

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Previously disappointed by ‘cronuts’ that were flaccid, oily, and almost inedible despite people actually waiting in line for a taste at 9am, it was with some surprise that display versions on this visit appeared far more fanciful amidst a variety of toppings, and opting to give blueberry a sampling the results were admittedly quite shocking, the layers featuring an unprecedented degree of separation with a crisp exterior and plenty of butter beneath subdued sweetness provided by the natural fruit glaze.

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FOUR STARS: Perhaps a result of arriving just after opening, while all items were still fresh, or maybe a sign of improved recipes and craftsmanship as the Pink Box brand expands, suffice it to say that as far as “artisan” donuts go there are few better than those being offered by Pink Box Henderson today, particularly considering the cost – a repeat trip to the flagship soon warranted to see if similar can be find much closer to home.

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RECOMMENDED: Date with a Nutty Pig, Buttermilk Bar, Blueberry Cronut.

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AVOID: The Apple Fritter is fine, particularly for those who find more traditional versions to be ‘oily,’ but still won’t satisfy those looking for a crispy old school classic.

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TIP: Not 24/7 like the Lake Meade Original, those looking for their fix are welcomed as early as 6am Seven-Days a week with shop doors closing at 6pm weekdays, 7pm weekends, or earlier depending on supply and demand.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

Pinkbox Doughnuts®

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Posted in Breakfast, Dessert, Food, Henderson, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pink Box Doughnuts, Pink Box Doughnuts Hendeson, Pork

Therapy., Las Vegas NV

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Therapy.

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Sangria Sampler: Classic Red (Hennessy cognac, Grand Marnier, almond syrup, cinnamon with fresh orange, strawberry, lemon, & green apple), Elder-Melon (Grey Goose Le Melon, Marie Brizard watermelon, Prosecco, with fresh watermelon, lemon, lime, & orange), Berry Good (Amaretto, cranberry, fresh blackberry, & sweet citrus flavors)

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Frozen Mango & Lychee Sangria (Don q cristal rum, Grand Marnier raspberry peach, mango & lychee puree with fresh raspberry, orange, lemon, & lime)

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Oxtail empanadas (Delicious oxtail filled pastry served with a harissa lime crème fraîche)

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Soft pretzel bread (with spicy beer mustard)

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In the “gnudi” (Baked ricotta, truffle honey, fig jam, roasted almonds & cranberry & walnut crostini)

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Roasted Mexican street corn (Perfectly seasoned corn on the cobb with a lime aioli chili pepper & Parmesan cheese)

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Mixed mushroom flatbread (Mushrooms, smoked bacon, carmelized onion & a soft poached egg)

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Chicken and red velvet waffle sliders (Belgium red velvet waffle, chicken breast with a red pepper remoulade slaw)

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Hangar steak tartar (Topped with confit egg yolk & Parmesan. Served with pickles & grilled bread)

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Crispy fried pig ears (Seasoned & breaded, deep fried to perfection with a truffle honey mustard)

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Roasted cauliflower (china ranch dates & yellow curry)

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Cast iron s’mores (Graham cracker crust with dark semi-sweet chocolate & toasted mallows bacon)

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Crumbled carrot cake (Brown Butter Ice Cream, Carrot cake layered on a cream cheese frosting schmear)

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Recently opened in the white-hot Fremont East district, an interesting decision given the established gastro-pub offerings of Park, Glutton, Carson Kitchen and more, it was at the suggestion of two trusted palates that dinner at “Therapy.” was booked, the menu seemingly featuring all the right words with execution left to Chef Daniel Ontiveros in his debut role as head toque in a restaurant off The Strip.

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Long in layout and two-stories tall, the space formerly inhabited by a Dollar Store completely renovated with a sexy bar and exposed ceilings as an open kitchen operates towards the back, it was at the hostess stand that we met General Manager Chuck Scimeca and swiftly led to a tidy four-top at the center of the restaurant the option of dining a la carte or letting the Chef cook for the table was offered, the later obviously accepted with a few special requests.

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Admittedly allowing a friend of the house to arrange the reservation, and unexpectedly presented with no check at night’s end, it was with service proving not only friendly but exceedingly well-informed and efficient that the meal began; a plate of soft pretzels set beside a quartet of oxtail empanadas, the former unequivocally buttery and luscious while the latter found surprising levity when dipped in peppery crème fraîche.

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Sipping a stiff yet fruity frozen drink, and later treated to a tasting of signature sangrias from which the Elder-Melon iteration proved an on-point summer refresher, it was with good pacing that round two arrived a few minutes after opening plates were finished and although the citrus kissed street corn was certainly no slouch there is little sense arguing that the star of the show was in fact the absolutely irresistible ricotta dumplings entitled “in the gnudi,” a gooey bite both sweet and savory that wows equally when eaten like gnocchi or spread on crostini, an item already rivaling the best appetizers in the city and a midpoint contender for the year’s ten best bites.

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At this point seeing lights lowered as a pop-heavy soundtrack switched to Taylor Swift at a volume that seemed a bit unnecessary given the growing din of the crowd, it was onward to a flaky puff-pastry ‘flatbread’ topped with mushrooms and a soft-poached egg that the savories marched on, and with a shocking degree of smoke imbued in the crust given the use of an electric oven each slice was slowly savored, a follow-up jar of silky steak tartar on par with what should be expected while the whimsical red-velvet sliders were unfortunately a bit muddled by all the accoutrements, a bit less slaw or more brine to the bird needed to add balance while the ‘bun’ would have been better off crisp.

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At this point a bit full, but unable to resist tasting a few more savories before moving onto dessert, it was with good fortune that a request was made to sample the meatiest pig’s ears tasted to date, and yet as delicious as the indulgent strips were it was perhaps a bit of a surprise that the charred yellow cauliflower presented even bolder, the use of curry, dates, as well as nuts offering a great degree of balance and giving one hope of great things to come when Ontiveros launches a market-driven blackboard in the months to come.

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Told that sweets at Therapy. are something not to be missed it was after a short visit from the Chef that the meal would reach its end, and again treated to a duo one would be hard pressed to decide whether the cast iron s’mores or deconstructed carrot cake was better, each creamy spoonful of the first exceptionally decadent despite being nicely anchored by a graham cracker base while the crumbled semicircle of spice cake was unquestionably more elegant, each bite offering something slightly different when paired to ice cream and airy cream cheese.

FOUR STARS: Still new, but already executing at a high level from the kitchen to the front of house staff, Therapy. marks yet another success for East Fremont, an area where things may indeed seem ‘same-same’ on the surface, while a deeper shows Chefs like Ontiveros instead pushing new concepts in an attempt to evolve the scene, and perhaps even swing the pendulum away from the strip and thereby change the game.

RECOMMENDED: “In the Gnudi,” Roasted Cauliflower, Mixed Mushroom Flatbread, Crumbled Carrot Cake.

AVOID: Chicken and Waffle Sliders.

TIP: Open for both lunch and dinner, 7 days a week, with the whole menu offered throughout service and specials soon to come.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://www.therapylv.com

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork, Therapy, Truffle, Waffles

Crown Bakery, Las Vegas NV

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Crown Bakery

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Green Tea Cookies

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Butter Bread

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Sweet Pecan Pie

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Rock Bun

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Mr. Kim Bun

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Ube Cream

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Choco-Honey Cake

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Located next to latenight stalwart Ichiza, occupying the East corner of the second floor at 4355 Spring Mountain Road, Crown Bakery had long been a place on the local to-do list and with dim sum at Ping Pang Pong proving less than exhilarating it was largely on a whim that the decision was made to stop in, a smiling young lady more than happy to answer several questions and even going so far as to offer a pair of complimentary cookies atop the half-dozen items self-selected to check out the store’s wares.

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Most certainly no expert in Asian baked goods, a sweet tooth crafted in the Midwest far more attuned to American and European-styled pastry, it was with coffee in hand that a degustation of Crown’s buns and breads was undertaken and starting off with the crispy matcha cookies teaming with chopped nuts the restrained use of sugar was immediately evident, a texture not far from Italian Biscotti while the flavor profile trended herbal and lightly creamy – each bite actually well paired to the java, and likely even more appropriate alongside a pot of tea.

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Attempting best to see flavors progress from mild to rich it was with one cookie set aside that sights were turned to the appropriately named “Butter Bread” and as much as placing butter atop milk bread filled with cream filling may seem a good idea the use of a whole pad that stood solid simply seemed unnecessary, the additional calories far better invested in crispy wheels loaded with pralines and sprinkled with sugar, the flavor still less ‘sweet’ than the Southern classic despite the title’s description, but delicious just the same.

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Moving next to a dense orb denoted as “Rock Bread,” suffice it to say there is probably no American item comparable to the amalgam of dried fruits, coconut, several types of nuts, and just enough flour to see it all bind tasted to date, and although a bit challenging to pull apart and eat the variety of flavors were exceedingly natural…perhaps even ‘healthy,’ a followup “Mr. Kim Bun” featuring a soft base laced in peanut butter and red bean paste obviously trending a bit more sugary though still quite mellow amidst the supple white base.

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Always a fan of purple yam, it was with good fortune that despite arriving a few hours after noon there was still one Ube Cream Bun left on the shelf, and with a light coat of spelt decorating the outside for texture the flavor was every bit as good as expected, a half quickly eaten while the rest was consumed shortly after tasting the cocoa-honey ‘cake’ that unfortunately proved a bit lackluster with texture not dissimilar to that of Wonderbread with neither flavor very pronounced.

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THREE AND A HALF STARS: A bit hidden amidst one of Chinatown’s busiest plazas, but featuring several novelties with low prices and the sort of service that one rarely associates with Spring Mountain Road, Crown Bakery is a place well worth exploring for those interested in Asian baked goods, a full exploration of the scene yet to be undertaken but the results thus far a promising start.

RECOMMENDED: Ube Cream, Mr. Kim Bun.

AVOID: Choco-Honey Cake.

TIP: Several chilled pastries and macarons are available, as are custom made cakes and a few items offered by the slice. $10 minimum for Credit Cards.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

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Posted in Crown Bakery, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada

Ping Pang Pong, Las Vegas NV

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Ping Pang Pong

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Crispy Duck with Roasted Peanuts

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Pork Belly with Roasted Peanuts

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Shrimp Ball with Mayo

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Chive Dumpling

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Almond Coated Shrimp with Mayo

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Steamed Pork Bun

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Har Gow

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Shumai

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Baked Pork Bun

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Baked Coconut Bun

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Egg Custard

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Stuffed Eggplant

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Pan Fried Red Bean Cake

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Red Bean Donut

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Red Bean Bun

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Found inside the Gold Coast Casino, and said by some to offer the best Dim Sum in a City oft lamented for lacking anything on par with other locations of similar size, it was with three friends that an 11:00am arrival was planned at Ping Pang Pong – one showing up far later than the rest, but really not missing much as the majority of items proved mediocre to decent at best, though service was admittedly far superior to several spots on Spring Mountain Road…perhaps to be expected considering the price.

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Served in traditional cart format, the table provided cattycorner the kitchen giving a good vantage of carts being loaded with fresh items throughout the duration of a two-hour stay, Ping Pang Pong features most of the usual suspects with minimal variation and taking a slow-but-prudent approach to ordering as the restaurant sat almost universally full it was with teas both iced and hot that service began, a duo of crispy duck and supple pork each served with peanuts and complimentary sauces proving well roasted and full of flavor, though the former was riddled with bones that left some pieces virtually devoid of meat.

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Passing on snails that later went half-uneaten by the tardy member of the party, course two featured fried shrimp balls with a sidecar of creamy mayo along with surprisingly delicate and aromatic chive dumplings that rivaled the best found anywhere in town, and moving onward to a trio of plump crustaceans covered in sliced almonds it was here that the savory highpoints of the afternoon were found, the freshness of each item assured by the good fortune of location though the increasing smell of cooking oil and gas would eventually render that impression unsound.

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Underwhelmed by both shumai and har gow with skins that trended too thick, and personally finding both styles of pork buns almost ‘dessert like’ given the significant amount of sugar present in the sauce, it was a bit of a surprise that the lightly set egg custards were almost entirely natural in flavor atop flaky buttered pastry, a duo of coconut buns ordered as the first of several sweets equally impressive without the gloppy filling that sometimes ruins the texture of the bun.

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Adding one more savory, the soft eggplant with an herbal stuffing coated in fermented bean sauce, before going all-in on a trio of sweets to finish, suffice it to say that those fancying red bean paste are well served at Ping Pang Pong, and although items featuring both green tea, pineapple, and sesame were offered the pan fried cakes of red bean as well as baked buns and filled with the same were every bit as good as any tasted anywhere to date, the lack of pressure to turn a table while drinks were repeatedly refilled without request allowing time to linger, chat, and enjoy – an admitted rarity in during peak hours at restaurants serving in this style.

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TWO AND A HALF STARS: Charging approximately 25% more than other similar spots in town, and failing to nail the standards despite executing a few items quite well, Ping Pang Pong is just another average Dim-Sum joint intended to cater to the growing Asian tourist population, a better option for those confined to casinos found at nearby KJ in the Rio while those with a car would be well served to check out Chang’s just a mile and a half to the North.

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RECOMMENDED: Almond Covered Shrimp, Chive Dumplings, Coconut Bun, Red Bean Donuts

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AVOID: Har Gow, Shumai, BBQ Pork (unless one enjoys it really sweet.)

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TIP: Those interested in menu items are encouraged to request a copy as kitchen items are offered made-to-order, a congee and Chinese Donut cart also seen just before exit though it never made its way to the right half of the room. Seating is first come, first served and the line appeared to peak at noon.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://www.goldcoastcasino.com/dine/ping-pang-pong

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Posted in Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Ping Pang Pong, Pork

Andiron Steak & Sea, Las Vegas NV

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Andiron Steak & Sea

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Prosciutto – Melon, Balsamic, Olive Oil

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Bread and Butter with Black Salt

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Burrata & Grilled Fig – Medjool Dates, Confit Tomato, Mius 8 Vinegar

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Grilled Market Vegetables – Fava Beans, Zucchini, Peppers, Eggplant, Roasted Tomato-Balsamic Vinaigrette

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Hudson Valley Foie Gras – Huckleberry Jam, Toasted Brioche

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Nueske Bacon Wrapped Matzo Balls – Horseradish Crème Fraiche, Sandy Valley Farms Arugula

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Pork Belly – Grilled Leeks, Tomatoes

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Maine Lobster Salad – Grilled Peach, Seabeans, Radish, Yuzu Vinaigrette

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Tomahawk Chop for Two with Stuffed Bone Marrow and Red Wine Bordelaise, Andiron Steak Sauce, Chimichurri, Green Peppercorn Sauce

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Creekstone Heritage Pork Schnitzel – Warm Potato Salad, Watercress, Fried Farm Egg

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Whole Wheat Linguini – Spinach and Ricotta, Chanterelle Mushrooms, Pea Tendrils

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Summerlin Market Carrots – Carrot-Ginger Puree, Chervil

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Roasted Organic Mushrooms – Shallot, Thyme, Whole Wheat Croutons

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Mac & Cheese Waffle – Five Cheese Blend

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Twice Baked Loaded Potato – Bacon and Bee Hive Smoked Cheddar

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Ashley’s Crème Brulee Donuts – Vanilla Custard

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Brown Butter Lemon Pie – Toasted Lime Meringue, Candied Lime

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Warm Chocolate Pudding Cake – Peanut Butter Ice Cream, Salted Toffee

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Cherry Almond Cake – Cherry Crème Fraiche Ice Cream

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Stone Fruit Sorbet, Almond Amaretto Ice Cream, Salted Caramel Chip Ice Cream

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Double Espresso on Ice

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Owned and operated by Elizabeth Blau and husband Kim Canteenwalla, with talent in the kitchen supplied by Joe Zanelli, Andiron Steak & Sea is without a doubt the centerpiece of Downtown Summerlin’s dining scene, and yet as much as some would like to anoint it a groundbreaking development…or even a “game changer”…the reality is that the restaurant is exactly what it claims, a modern steakhouse with seafood and sides executed at a level corresponding with the associated fee.

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Large in size and light in ambiance, the flowing space featuring an outdoor patio juxtaposing a sexy bar that greets the eye just as patrons enter the door, a first glimpse of Andiron occured during the restaurant’s grand opening but waiting until buzz died down to sit for a proper meal it was with three friends that dinner was taken, the original plan of deferring to the kitchen quickly squashed when an order was requested with the resulting experience occurring over the course of two hours during which much food and fun was had.

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Well appointed with white linen as large windows bathe the space with light it was after a short visit from Chef Zanelli that the meal began and first treated to a gift of melon and prosciutto it would not be long before the table was quickly overloaded, a duo of salads and four starters immediately necessitating a request for more prolonged pacing as chilled dishes were set aside to focus on those more temperature sensitive – the grilled vegetables and pork belly both highlights from round one while the flavor of the lobster was almost entirely lost amidst its accoutrements and foie gras trended a touch pricey considering its small size.

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Thankfully giving time to photograph, chat, and exchange opinions of plates before queuing up course two it was again that the service structure at Andiron saw a plethora of plates arrive shortly after those from round one were cleared, and having opted to pair three entrees to four sides the results were surprisingly similar to that already experienced, both the Tomahawk Chop and Crispy Pork Schnitzel prepared as good as any off-Strip while the Linguini was texturally mushy, the carrots proving the high-point of the sides mainly as a result of the ginger puree beneath while the clever macaroni waffle was far better than the first time around in part due to the cheesy sauce added tableside.

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Never one to shy away from sweets, though admittedly a bit disappointed that the tarte tatin and ice box cake listed online have been deep-sixed in favor of chocolate pudding cake and an admittedly impressive cherry clafoutis, it was with a quintet of complimentary desserts that the meal would end and as much as the crème brûlée donuts may indeed get all the press it was actually the aforementioned almond cake alongside the Brown Butter Lemon Pie that saw everyone smiling in agreement – the later a dessert ranking high amongst Las Vegas’ very best.

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THREE STARS: Thus far a hit as the restaurant was nearly 90% full on a Friday evening throughout the majority of our stay the question that few have answered is how exactly Andiron ups-the-ante compared to the likes of nearby Flemming’s or even Echo & Rig, the former obviously a chain with similar price structure as well as execution while the latter is seriously flawed in its dessert program, though ringing in at 2/3 the cost for a similar upscale experience, plus in-house butchery and curing programs allowing for far more range.

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RECOMMENDED: Grilled Market Vegetables, Creekstone Heritage Pork Schnitzel, Summerlin Market Carrots, Brown Butter Lemon Pie.

AVOID: Maine Lobster Salad, Twice Baked Loaded Potato.

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TIP: Now offering a $55 3-Course Prix-Fixe, plus frequent ‘special event’ dinners, online menus currently lag behind those offered in-house – those interested in specific items should call or stop by.

http://andironsteak.com/

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

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Posted in Andiron, Andiron Steak & Sea, Andiron Steak and Sea, Bread Basket, Coffee, Dessert, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Lobster, Nevada, Pork

Brasserie Leon de Lyon, Lyon France

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Brasserie Leon de Lyon

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Gougeres au Saint-Marcellin et Cervelle de Canut

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Jus de Mangue, Pomme, Fenouil

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Baguette with Olive Tapanade

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Pate en croute

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Quenelles de brochet

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Bugnes Cuit Au Moment et Servies Tiedes – Fresh Peach Jam and Whipped Cream

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Brioche Fourree au Chocolat Cuisinee comme un Pain Perdu et Doree au Miel

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Opting against another Michelin Starred meal for the last night in Lyon, and instead turning to the sort of French comfort food rarely seen back home, it was without reservations that I entered Brasserie Leon de Lyon and opting for indoor seating as opposed to a bustling patio the experience was one of high prices for average quality, the scene and fortunate seating next to a well-traveled Scandinavian couple proving more memorable than any of the food itself.

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Certainly a unique menu, several Lyonnaise classics offered alongside a ‘healthy’ section featuring antii-oxidant shakes and “low-cal” choices for those looking to perhaps shed some weight, the building housing Leon de Lyon is itself quite luxurious with high-ceilings and belle-epoque styling while service is prim and proper, most staff members fluent in English which seemed befitting considering the number of tourists dining throughout the space.

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Passing once more on wine, here treated to a bottle of surprisingly cold water plus a blend of juices with fennel, the meal began with a basket of warm bread paired to briny tapanade as opposed to butter, a quartet of golden gougeres arriving shortly thereafter with Saint-Marcellin filling and herbal Cervelle de Canut at their side.

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Happily sticking to the classics, though several unique options including veal foot and an impressive pork rib are offered, it was not long before a starter of Pate en croute was presented with golden brioche overlying sweetbreads, foie gras, chicken, plus aspic and although decent despite not being quite as funky as some other versions from the trip, the 15.90€ seemed quite excessive when accounting for both quality and quantity served.

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http://leondelyon.com/uk/brasserie-leon-de-lyon.php

Posted in Brasserie Leon de Lyon, Bread Basket, Bread Pudding, Dessert, Foie, Food, France, French Toast, Ice Cream, Lyon, Pork, Sweetbreads, Vacation

Donuts Factory, Lyon France

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Donuts Factory

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Strawberry

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Kinder

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Choco Lait Amande

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Caramel Popcorn

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Underwhelmed by donuts earlier in my visit, a surprise considering the overall quality of most of Lyon’s pastries and baked goods, it was with some skepticism that I entered the large space entitled “Donuts Factory” and unabashedly referencing New York City with a menu of fried dough alongside bagels and coffee the nonchalant service seemed oddly appropriate, a scene straight out of Brooklyn unfolding even if the all-French crowd of youths crowding the cafe seemed entirely unaware.

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Admittedly found in a touristy area, and as such probably meant to target folks like myself in addition to locals curious about America’s most famous morning sweets, the selection at Donuts Factory took a similar path as that seen at Dorodi and with only yeast-risen options available the texture of the dough seemed borrowed from Dunkin, the subtle glazes and toppings helping to at least partially improve the product as a whole

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Not particularly hungry after a full day of eating, but at least willing to give the products a fair chance to shine, it was with a boxed quartet that I made my exit from the building and sampling as I walked the first bite of Strawberry showed an unexpected degree of natural flavor, though the follow-up “Kinder,” based on a locally famous candy bar, suffered from a waxy mouthfeel that saw much of it left for the birds.

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Having attempted to ask which donuts were most fresh, the Choco Lait Amande suggested after a brief conference between clerks, the flavors of milk chocolate were expectedly sugary despite subtlety lent by sliced almonds, and rounding out the sampling with an option called Caramel Popcorn the only real “issue” was the staleness of the kernels, a robust buttery note imbuing the glaze itself.

Posted in Breakfast, Dessert, Donuts Factory, Food, France, Lyon, Vacation