Already three-deep in sweets after breakfast at Gjusta, snacks at Primo’s, and brunch at Flores it was simply a matter of curiosity and convenience that drew me through the doors of B Sweet and although not particularly hungry a selection of bread puddings proved absolutely irresistible, the grab n’ go packaging particularly convenient for a Packers vs. Seahawks mid-game snack.
Originally a catering concept founded by Barb Batiste, with a focus on old-school cakes and pastries mastered during stints at California hotels as well cafes, the Sawtelle Dessert Bar is the first Brick and Mortar iteration of Chef Batiste’s concepts and already shipping frozen puddings to retailers such as Target the concept seems ripe to expand with a rotating menu of weekly in-house offerings alongside old classics from which a few samples were tasted before selecting a trio – two ‘be good’ sized bread puddings, and a daily special that unfortunately proved to be nothing particularly special at all.
Eschewing enormous cookies, cheese cakes, ready-to-eat cookie dough, and Barb’s famous Chocolate Chip Banana Bread it was instead with a small-ish cinnamon roll that the tasting began and although nicely gilded with butter and top grade cinnamon amidst rich frosting the bun itself was unfortunately dry with a flavor no better than Bisquick – a trend thankfully reversed in the pair of puddings to follow.
Opting to indulge in one ‘standard’ and one ‘special,’ each priced at $4, it was with a $1 Thrifty Ice Cream upgrade that I partook in steamy, custard infused cornbread and eating something corn pudding at first with the melting vanilla quickly giving the cup an almost cream corn-like texture it would be hard to imagine a better marriage of the two, each bite a little sweet and just a touch saline with exquisite transition to the tried n’ true Salty Caramel that followed – just one rich bite enjoyed in store, but the rest remaining warm in the package for further enjoyment just a few hours later.
Tres Leches French Toast, Dulce de Leche, Pomegranate
More than a little impressed by a prior brunch at Hart & the Hunter it was blatantly ignoring the state of flux in the kitchen at Flores & The Ladies’ Gunboat Society that a midday reservation was made, and although service was a perfunctory exercise at best, any turmoil or behind the scenes chef change was unperceivable as relates to the food – each of five plates ranging from good to exquisite, and almost every bit as good as what was experienced from Dunsmoor and his team at Palihotel on Melrose.
Located on Sawtelle, in the midst of a restaurant row from which ‘modern Southern American’ sticks out like a sore thumb, it was just moments after opening that our duo sat down at a tight two-top on the cusp of the patio and with coffee quickly filled the first time but refills almost entirely for lack it was after a quick debate that selections were made, a five course meal stretched over just over an hour during which the restaurant would never see more than 1/8 capacity – all the more confusing as to exactly why the service was so sluggish.
Specifically requesting the courses come out one-by-one it was mere moments after placing an order that a pair of fluffy biscuits with sidecars of apple puree alongside smooth, sour butter arrived and although not quite as impressive as the cheddar masterpieces at H&tH it would be hard to call them anything less than reference standard, the following plate of piping hot donuts upping the ante with an up-front spice profile, next-to-zero greasiness, and a pot of vanilla infused caramel featuring a floral sort of sweetness seemingly derived only from the essence of pears.
Moving onward to a duo of savories it should go without saying that any ‘southern’ restaurant serving fried chicken is bound to see me place an order and although a bit lost under a smothering of pepper gravy the times when the briny bird managed to peak through showed good reason to revisit for the weekly fried chicken dinner, the lightly charred broccoli standing up far better to the toppings while creamy polenta formed the sort of base that left one scraping the bowl clean when imbued with the yolk an egg over-easy.
Again hoping for a reprise of the quality on display at Hart and the Hunter it was in a bowl of snappy prawns amidst crispy sprouts, poached eggs, and creamy Hollandaise that the savories fully hit their mark and just smoky enough from the addition of smoked bacon it was a surprisingly smooth transition to the ‘save the best for last’ moment that followed as three slices of lightly charred French Toast found balance in a rich custard interior topped with seeds of pomegranate atop a slick of salty caramel – each bite as good as the last and undoubtedly the best sweet bites encountered thus far in this calendar year.
Proudly representing Westdale since 1956, and named by some sources as the best donuts in Los Angeles, it was just after 9:30am that parking behind Primo’s Donuts was allocated and making way into the tiny storefront to find several hot options emerging from the kitchen just as I arrived it seemed as though luck was shining bright, a lack of Apple Fritters a bit disappointing, though the six items ordered almost universally impressive at the bargain basement price of $5.56.
Family owned and operated since long before I was born, and serving both cake and yeast raised options to inhabitants of West LA seven days a week since opening their doors, Primo’s is the work of Ralph and Celia Primo who purchased the store during a trip west many years ago and still operated by the same couple a first bite of the still-warm Long John tells one all they need to know as a fluffy interior beneath syrup flavored frosting speaks of old time recipes and none of the fancy artisan upselling so frequently seen today.
Not a place for cronuts or crullers, subsequent tastes found the light cocoa notes of Devil’s Food amidst a soft crumb well paired to crisp vanilla glaze while an equally wispy butterfly showed plenty of cinnamon to tantalize the tongue. Moving onward to a soft cake variant, unfortunately a bit too oily despite tangy cherry glaze, it was quick that the course would correct – the sour cream old fashioned topped with more sticky maple showing off subtle sours while the buttermilk bar was absolutely reference standard with sweet glaze and ample sours in delicate balance, each bit compelling one more and almost good enough to send me back inside for a couple more if only brunch weren’t so soon to follow.
Having visited Gjelina far too long ago, but generally impressed by the experience and food, it was after an early morning half-marathon run through the hills of Sherman Oaks that I made the 25 minute drive to Venice, and meeting a friend just after 9am as the jack-of-all-trades standing-room-only space slowly crept towards capacity suffice it to say that Travis Lett has another hit on his hands.
Long and narrow, with space to browse along one wall and several stations as well as cases featuring everything from fresh bread and pastry to smoked fish and bagels, the service-style at Gjusta is best described as ‘free-form’ and with several helpful clerks happy to answer questions and gather provisions it was a large order that was crafted – eight items plus a cold-brew from Stumptown tallying just under $55 after tax and a small tip.
Nearly assaulted by a ‘bro’ who seemed to think that my annoyance with his stepping on my foot in an attempt to secure a spot at the food bar was unwarranted it was after avoiding crisis that the goods were unboxed, and beginning savory with a shattering bite of croissant the first impression was strong, a followup quiche, rich with cheese and fluffy eggs, equally impressive before delving into a six-pack of sweets.
Admittedly not ‘cheap,’ but also using top grade butter, organic milk as well as eggs, and locally sourced produce as Chef Lett bounced from station to station overseeing a team of at least two-dozen it was in a buttermilk biscuit that teeth next sank and with ample tanginess balanced by sweet jam and smooth butter the only way it might have been better was warm, a similar statement applicable to the soft ball of brioche rolled in cinnamon sugar, a virtually oilless masterpiece that very well may have been baked as opposed to fried.
Working up to laminated pastry before culminating in pie, there has been much written about Gjusta’s Baklava Croissant and biting through the golden shell to find notes of honey and plenty of nuts it was a pleasure to find out that rumors of the city’s best non-traditional croissant are true, yet moving on to another laminated pastry, a sizable Chocolate Babka, it warrants mention that the later was perhaps even better – both items featuring a feather-light crumb below the crunch and the sort of nuanced sweetness likely to appeal to those preferring a less sugary breakfast, but equally satisfying to those happy to indulge.
Having already mentioned the all-too-necessary ‘breakfast-dessert(s),’ it remains impressive just how different various Banana Cream Pies can be, and again avoiding the temptation to overwhelm with sweetness the version at Gjusta instead wows with densely packed bananas, relying almost exclusively on their own intrinsic flavors, beneath a veil of hand whipped cream – the lightly toasted all-butter crust well suited for its duties both here and in the case of a creamy chess pie that used blueberries amidst all the milk and butter to temper light notes of vinegar with outstanding results.
Long residing on the Los Angeles culinary ‘to-do’ list it was mostly at the recommendation of a friend that reservations were made for three at 8:30pm and entering the Walt Disney Concert Hall attached space precisely on time it was with warm smiles and exemplary service that our party was greeted before being led to a center-room table – it was also the last of any exemplary service to be found throughout an evening where food shined, but shoddy service and extremely slow pacing extended eight proper courses to four hours that felt even longer than that.
Currently toqued by Paul Lee, formerly of Le Cirque Las Vegas, and recently transitioned to tasting menu only format, Patina remains the Relais & Chateaux crown jewel of Joachim Splichal’s restaurant group and opting for an ‘all-in’ approach for the first visit it was much to the disappointment of the table that we were informed immediately after seating that they were sold-out of duck…a walkout quickly contemplated, but eventually deciding to stay and experience a $150 tasting menu from which nearly every item shined.
Utilizing a style of service that relies heavily on back-servers while captains kowtowed to a table of regulars to our left the meal began awkwardly when sommelier service was refused to my friend – no pairings available and ‘recommendations from the sommelier’ made by way of our waiter – and no sooner did this occur than a trio of canapés arrived without a single word of description, a young man eventually flagged down to tell us exactly what we were eating…a recurring event until complaints were uttered to a man defining himself as the dining room manager.
Continually marred by service gaffs it was shortly after a first round of warm, excellent bread found its way to the table, the meal began with a twirl of pasta and seemingly pulled directly from the menu at Le Cirque the tender noodles were tender and springy while briny bubbles of caviar burst under a bright vinaigrette, a followup course of sous vide egg over potatoes with smoky notes and buttered mushrooms making a quick turn to umami that worked surprisingly well.
Trumpeting the return of foie gras, much like the rest of The Golden State, course three featured a caramelize slice of tender liver perched on a piece of brioche beneath the comforting flavors of raisins and cocoa, and again opting to focus on the intrinsic sweetness of the plate’s central protein a subsequent plate of butter poached lobster proved impeccably textured surrounded by a rich butter reduction grounded in mushrooms and root vegetables.
Generally underwhelmed by John Dory, as many chefs seem to overcook the meaty fish, Chef Lee’s skills were again highlighted in course five as the flesh proved flaky and moist atop a pile of cut cauliflower bathed in brightly flavored broth and with no one friend opting to finish with beef while two of us instead chose the rabbit the kitchen’s skills again shined, the funky lasagna particularly memorable and perhaps the best bite of the night.
Presented next with a proper cheese cart, and for once taking time to truly explain the food being served, it was with a large selection of options spanning Portuguese Sheep’s milk to Epoisses, and an unforgivingly aggressive blue it was surprisingly without palate cleanser that dessert arrived and making a quick taste transition with the assistance of a double espresso over ice it was in something resembling deconstructed sticky toffee pudding that I invested while friends chose the lime posset – something we’d originally been told could not be substituted on the tasting menu due to ‘portion,’ but a pleasant surprise with citrus and spice walking a fine line as ginger perfumed the palate.
Ending in mignardises, our table the last in the room, it was undoubtedly the sesame covered chocolate that stole the show, and presented with the bill at just over $200 per person inclusive of tax and tip it was with mixed emotions that we made our way to the empty streets – the clock now reading “AM” after a meal memorable for the food and friends involved, but far from perfect due to service more befitting a quick-casual chain than a place Relais & Chateaux or Michelin ranked.
Buttermilk Provencal – The Original with Bearnaise
Housemade Chips
Ludo Sweet and Salty Ice Cream Sandwich
Having last eaten arena food at Staples Center on January 20th, 2007 when the Kings retired #20 to the rafters – an unmemorable plate of sushi in Club Level Seats – it seemed only appropriate to end a nearly 8 year streak as the team prepared to hang Rob Blake’s Number 4, a quick perusal while wandering the lowering ring after a visit to TeamLA quickly finding me in line at Ludo Lefebvre’s Ludobird – the fast-food style service perfunctory, at best, but the three strips of chicken somehow managing to justify the $11.50 tab.
Well culled in menu, with most items based on those offered at the Celebrity Chef’s roaming food truck, it was clearly a trainee that took my order and after twice asking his manager which buttons to press in order to process my order a crisp $20 was exchanged for a ticket – the numbers called out at the other end of the counter where several patrons waited, the entire process taking place in just under ten minutes after which a standing-room-only table was allocated next to a nearby bar.
Admittedly disappointed that highly praised lavender biscuits were not available, but happy to partake in hand sliced chips aggressively spiced and salted with hardly a hint of oil, it was onward to the signature bird that the tasting quickly progressed and with each strip intensely crisp over well brined bird the sidecar of sauce was almost unnecessary – the ‘almost’ qualification no slight, however, as the creamy béarnaise was better than that served at most restaurants and an instant upgrade to almost anything it touched, particularly the aforementioned fried spuds.
Obviously not one to forgo dessert, particularly not one so whimsical as a true “ice cream sandwich,” it was finally in one of Ludo’s signature Sweet and Salty compositions that the meal would end and although forced to consume the melting amalgam faster than I’d have preferred due to the toasty, warm bun the juxtaposition of heat and cold was a treat in-and-of itself while the tried n’ true caramel notes were every bit as good as those experienced at Sweet Rose or Salt & Straw – and certainly a whole lot better than one would expect from a concourse elsewhere in the NHL.
Apple and Pear Galette – Apple Jus, Honey-Rosemary Ice Cream
Birthday Cake – Chocolate, Sea Salt Caramel, Toffee
Recently opened by Stephane Bombet of Faith & Flower, and toqued by Kris Morningstar, it was at the suggestion of a food-writer acquaintance that brunch at Terrine was penciled into the Los Angeles agenda and easily allocating four friends to join in the experience it can only be said that a leisurely three-hour meal on the open air patio was every bit as good as the rumors – a dozen plates of almost universally impressive cuisine served in a series of five courses with only a server who wasn’t as clever as she thought she was and sub-par bread service holding the meal back from ‘destination dining’ status.
Every bit a beautiful space, one part French Brasserie and the other half San Francisco al fresco, it was just after 11:30 that our quintet converged on an outdoor table at the cusp of a more formal dining room and soon greeted by a young woman full of ‘everything is good’ superlatives, but little actual knowledge of the kitchen’s culinary techniques, it was after much debate that an order was crafted – the house-made charcuterie arriving on a board more than generous enough for sharing with both terrines truly exemplary and the rest quite competent, though outsourced bread featured too chewy a crumb to be enjoyed for more than just a palate cleansing bite.
Opting next for a six-slice pizza topped in anchovies, olives, and cheese suffice it to say that the substantially charred crust presented a significant upgrade on the aforementioned baguette and also opting for two orders of biscuits paired to housemade apple butter the same held true for these – each flaky bite loaded with notes of buttermilk while the butter and jam were so good that they were each held over only to be added to a bit of baguette later, an instant upgrade to say the least.
At this point suffering an unexplained delay, but with no lull in the conversation, it was perhaps thirty minutes before a duo of chicken and grits alongside soft-breaded, flaky fish with golden fries arrived and with the former offering a beautiful balance of sweet and savory, crisp and creamy the only problem was the uncharacteristically small portion – particularly as many of us…or at least myself…would have preferred not to share.
To this point fairly impressed it was with a wink and a smile about foie gras’ recent legalization that the table was offered an off-menu special of creamy terrine, and with a cost of $20 the sizable slab alongside poached prunes proved more than worth the expense, particularly as compared to the paltry portion at Pistola the night before – and all the moreso when served alongside plates of breakfasty spatzle draped in egg and crème fraiche, as well as custardy French Toast topped in salty caramel in a pool of pure maple syrup.
Only at this point informed that desserts, too, were an option it was during another pronounced delay that Mr. Bombet stopped by to say hello, and familiar with two of my dining partners, but friendly with all, the restaurateur proved a perfect host – open to concerns about the bread and a wealth of information about the Los Angeles dining scene – until a trio of sweet endings arrived, each completely unlike the others and all displaying a deft hand in the pastry department with the rustic galette and candle-carrying ice cream cake most impressive to myself while others ooh’d and aah’d about the more elegant and light Baumkuchen with bright, citrus ice cream.
Stepping out of EAT with bread pudding in hand it was just a few short steps later that I approached the counter at Republic of Pie, and with the sprawling space nearly four times larger than the nearby breakfast venue the vibe was decidedly different – a few people dotting tables throughout the back two rooms where outdoor light bathed tables from a skylight, and a few up front lounging on antique furniture made all the more comfortable by years of wear.
Open at 8am, with nearly two dozen pies ranging from sweet to savory alongside several additional fresh-baked treats, it was with wide eyes that the scene was surveyed and after asking a few questions regarding the Japanese Cold Brew as well as the non-pie pastries a trio was selected – a some for now, some for later approach largely consumed on a comfy couch while browsing the restaurant’s free WiFi.
Opting for two selections to be warmed up, no microwaves but instead under a salamander, it was with the bread pudding that the tasting began, and served as a sort of layercake with banana bread sandwiching freshly sliced bananas and plenty of melted dark chocolate the results were no less than stunning – each bite moist and rich, so much so that the thick slab was almost too much for a single sitting, particularly when taken next to a pecan pie that rivals the best of what is found throughout the
South, a thin layer of sweet filling beneath a mountain of candied nuts made all the better by a toasty top-note added by the broiler while a 50-cent accoutrement of house-whipped cream proved entirely unnecessary, though immensely satisfying on both the pudding and the pie.
Saving part of the pudding, as well as that from Eat, for an after-brunch snack it was also a thick slice of Republic of Pie’s Blueberry that joined the midday ‘meal’ and although eaten at room temperature neither the buttery crust nor the densely packed bursting berries were anything less than exemplary, each bite making me wish I’d have ordered a few more slices while already planning a return visit during the next trip to LA.
Killing Me Softly – Three Layers of Brioche Stuffed with Fresh Raspberries and Nutella, topped with Vanilla and Raspberry Sauce
Banana Nut Caramel Pancake
Banana Bread Pudding with Whipped Cream, Crème Anglaise, Caramel Sauce
Deciding to once again pass on a Langer’s due to a lack of interest from friends it was back to North Hollywood that breakfast plans would lead and having heard good things about Eat from trusted palates it was just after the restaurant’s 8am opening that I arrived, the small space filling to capacity by 8:30 and remaining that way at least until I abandoned my parking space just minutes prior to eleven.
Small in size but diverse in menu, with several takes on traditional breakfast items such as eggs, griddles, sandwiches, and sides, Eat occupies a narrow space on Magnolia Boulevard and with an outdoor patio expanding seating to perhaps four-dozen while three short-order cooks and two waiters worked with near-constant motion it can only be said that the feel of the small restaurant is frenetic, yet at the same time never did anyone seem at want for anything – coffee refilled as though by an invisible hand and dishes arriving at a record pace with a surprising eye for plating.
Starting off with a single pancake, offered at $5.50 with sliced bananas, house-made caramel, as well as roasted pecans, one would be hard pressed to find any fault in the supple buttermilk batter griddled golden brown, and yet as good as the flapjack was it simply could not compare to a tower of crispy custard-laden brioche sandwiched around fresh berries and a slathering of nutella, the addition of house-made vanilla and raspberry sauces making the artificial maple syrup offered with both plates entirely unnecessary, much as the caramel and butter did for the pancake.
Unable to depart without sampling the bread pudding, but weary of stomach space given substantial dining plans to follow, it was with an order boxed to-go that I made my exit and opting to indulge in the rewarmed square just a few hours later it too would prove a ‘must order’ as the bananas and moist, eggy bread met at a nearly one-to-one ratio beneath a trio of toppings; the vanilla angaise and sticky caramel again making an appearance while hand-whipped cream ever so slightly tempered the sweetness.
Filling the old AOC space on 3rd Street with a see-and-be-seen scene and cuisine from Vic Casanova Pistola has been white-hot ever since opening its doors, and with a menu fairly familiar to those experienced with East Coast (or Las Vegas) Italian Steakhouses an 8:30pm reservation with two friends found the restaurant absolutely slammed – the bar three-deep and exceedingly loud while the more subdued upstairs was a mix of overpowering cologne, unnecessary music, a couple making out in plain view of thirty others, and a private room with open air access allowing 50F air to flow over everyone in the adjacent room.
Admittedly off-put by the setting, to the point where I’d considered walking out until the fellow who’d bathed in Gucci Guilty asked to be relocated because he was too cold, it was to equally off putting service that our trio was treated throughout the course of the meal and with plates slopped down by back servers, an espresso spilled after being almost ‘spiked’ on the table without apology, and the wrong Bucatini being served after an inexplicable 48-minute delay between second and third courses suffice it to say that even compared to Las Vegas this is not a place to go for those looking for a refined meal, the case of a highly skilled kitchen done a significant disservice by the front of house to say the least.
Moving onto the food, expectedly high priced given the location and hype, it was with a duo of appetizers alongside disturbingly dry bread that the meal commenced and with a thin smear of recently legalized foie gras atop crispy bread kicking things off it would be difficult not to quibble the $18, no matter how good, when compared to what was enjoyed at Terrine the day after for a couple dollars more, while the cold Kabocha beneath creamy, stretchy cheese was one of the better preparations tasted in recent memory – the splash of acid and sweet exclamation points of pomegranate juxtaposing crisp scallions offering a substantial upgrade on a dish far too often seen throughout Southern California.
Opting to overdo it on pastas, priced at $20-$25 and all made in house, it was with a trio arriving no more than ten minutes after appetizers were cleared that the meal carried on and although the Linguini was exceedingly well done with al dente noodles matched to mussels and leeks it simply could not compare to pillow-soft gnocchi in a rich ragu, nor tender black agnolotti somehow managing the highwire act of being both sweet and briny, the flavors of uni melding to snappy lobster and buttery scallops with just the right amount of ‘sea.’
At this point inexplicably delayed, only to have the wrong pasta and no sides arrive alongside excellent roast chicken and overcooked tagliatelle that unfortunately saw the fowl get lost in the metallic taste of liver mixed with balsamic, it was to a ‘rushed’ order of carbonara that we were eventually treated but with noodles far too al dente while the entire flavor profile leaned far too saline one only wished we’d have simply passed on the $23 mistake instead – a similar sentiment applicable to the overly ‘truffled’ mushrooms, though the creamy polenta was toothsome and rich with topnotes of cheese kept in check by plenty of cream.
A bit underwhelmed at this point, but unwilling to forgo dessert, it from a concise list of three plated choices along with gelato, sorbet, and cookies that we were left to decide and figuring another $9 each was irrelevant at this point a ‘one of each’ approach was taken – the pinky-sized Cannolis certainly not worth $3 a piece though both the moist chocolate cake and fig-laden crostata were admittedly quite delicious and elegant – the haphazard spillage of coffee notwithstanding.
Autumn Velvet + Winter Melon – Roasted Kabocho, Blue Hubbard, Butternut Squashes with Numbing Spice Braised Winter Melon, Mochi, Herbs
Brown Butter Mochi + Miso Caramel
Essentially a permanent dinner-time pop-up inside Field Trip, with an entrance off Selma Avenue at the corner of Morningside Court despite the 1555 Vine Street Address, it was literally seconds after reading Jonathan Gold’s review that an adjustment in schedule was made to the Los Angeles agenda in order to afford a visit to Porridge & Puffs and although the irony of visiting three ampersand joints in a row is not lost on someone who finds the whole trend hilarious it can only be said that the team in the kitchen isn’t just here to make a quick buck from the hipster trust-fund kids, these ladies and gentlemen are serious about their sourcing, preparation, and craft.
Transitioning substantially from the morning and afternoon menu to a well-culled selection of vegetables, puffs, and porridges as well as purees beginning at 5:30 it was just as the doors opened that we entered the small space and first sitting at a table but later moving to the bar in order to watch the kitchen while ordering two counter-exclusive ‘flights’ it would not be long before a complimentary starter of snappy and savory slaw arrived and, fast on its heels, a plate of heirloom carrots with seemingly impossible natural sweetness enhanced by brown butter and pomegranate seeds that found its foil in vegan curry aioli that was both up-front and delicate, the sort of thing rarely achieved in even a fine dining establishment charging double the menu price.
A bit concerned by the porridge preparation as the made-to-order flights unfortunately necessitated some bowls resting idly while others were cooked and blended it was just after 6:05pm that the sextet of bowls arrived and paired to a trio of golden puffs – free on Fridays – the only ‘problem’ that arose was deciding where to start – a decision made a bit easier when the Chef suggested we start with a silky risotto rich with butter and topped with lightly seared scallops, my dining companion’s favorite taste of the night while the best was yet to come for myself.
Moving next to creamy squash puree with marshmallow-soft mocha and winter melon tinged with numbing spice adding all sorts of textures and sensations it was on to the teff that the tasting progressed and although the cold creaminess was interesting compared to the rest a hefty amount of booze and acid simply did not mix well with the rest of the options, a few bites proving enough before moving on to the second trio where both the short rib and chicken were impressive in their balance of light sweetness with pickling flavors while the pork!pork!pork! was s savory slap to the tastebuds with so much salinity and umami that it was almost too much, the mushrooms and turmeric thankfully adding just enough earthiness to keep the broth grounded, though it was still best when sopped up with the puffs.
Finishing up the evening with Verve’s Cold Brew poured over ice, served next to chewy strips of mochi seared in a pan with brown butter and topped with a sweetened miso glaze, it was with a modest bill of $31 per person after tax and tip that we made our exit and with the dining room now more than 3/4 full I only hope the concept continues to thrive so I can return during a new season to see what the team thinks up next.
Happy Birthday Elvis – Banana pudding ice cream, Marionberry Jam from Oregon Hill Farms along with homemade peanut butter-bacon butterfingers
Salted, Malted, Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough
Almond Brittle with Salted Ganache
Black Olive Brittle & Goat Cheese
Located on Larchmont and imported from Portland it was largely a lack of time that prevented a visit to Salt & Straw during a late-2014 trip to Los Angeles but unwilling to repeat the mistake this time around it was just after lunch at Barrel & Ashes that I approached the equally ampersanded spot and with smiling service from the moment of entry to the very last bite it was a pleasure to find rumors of lessened quality entirely false as each of the LA Signatures, as well as the seasonal specials, shined.
Reportedly marred by increased prices and a lower quality base by those obsessed with all things Portlandia, but featuring the same satin texture and innovative flavors to my own Salt & Straw-experienced tongue it was with no less than six samples that my experience began and with both the Stumptown Coffee & Compartes Love Nuts and Santa Ynez Valley Walnut Oil proving quite exemplary the eventual choice of four flavors to fill a $10 ‘flight’ was a difficult one to say the least.
Opting to invest in options spreading the palate it was with savories progressing to intensely sweet that the tasting evolved and with the characteristic salinity of olives juxtaposing lightly funky goat cheese subtle transitioning to Almond Brittle and Salted Ganache the opening duo was almost as elegant as a plated cheese course, the follow-up of crispy cookie dough in a light vanilla base an abrupt transition to sweetness just barely reined in by the malt while “Happy Birthday Elvis” proved to be one of the most complex and delicious Ice Creams I’ve had to date – the base indistinguishable from its namesake Southern dessert with diverse textures and flavors ranging from tart berries to the briny sapor of bacon adding all sorts of intrigue until I was scraping the bowl clean.
Smoked Chicken Wings with Garden Vegetables and Blue Cheese
Spicy Pork Rinds with Malt Vinegar Mayonnaise
Hoe Cake with Maple Butter
Half Rack of Salmon Creek Farms Spare Ribs
Brisket Sandwich with Swiss
Pulled Pork Sandwich with Coleslaw and Vinegar Sauce
The Best Damn Chick’n Sandwich Ya Ever Had – Pimento Cheese, Jalapeno Coleslaw on Milk Roll
Open Faced Santa Maria Tri Tip with romaine, Pico de Gallo, Rosemary Aioli on Sourdough
Banana Pudding with Toasted Meringue and Nilla Wafers
Turtle Ice Cream Cake with Pecans, Salted Caramel, Chocolate
Apple Cobbler with Malted Vanilla Ice Cream
Lemon Pudding Cake with Heavily Whipped Cream
Toqued by a former Michelin 3* Chef and several Thomas Keller alumni one would be hard-pressed to name a more prestigious Barbeque joint than red-hot Barrel & Ashes, and with early reviews mixed, some including claims of ‘money grab’ or ‘waste of talent’ a visit with four others at lunch certainly lived up the rumors – both good and bad.
Located in Studio City, and decorated in an almost paint-by-numbers way obviously intended to reference more established smokehouses down south, our party’s arrival at Barrel & Ashes began with five-persons being shoehorned into a four-top despite having reservations and greeted by a truncated menu lacking brisket aside from last-night’s leftovers reappropriated to a sandwich suffice it to say things were off to a bad start – the disinterested-hipster ‘everything is good’ service also not entirely befitting a theme of “Southern Hospitality” in any way, shape, or form.
Eventually moved to a shared, 8-seat high-top where service would subsequently improve it was with questions answered regarding both portions and preparation that the order progressed and eventually settling on eight savories to be shared it was not long before the first course arrived, the pork rinds trending a bit oily and oversalted while both the smoky, richly spiced wings and lightly sauced ribs showed signs of promise for the ‘cue…a still-sizzling, toothsome hoecake saturated with what very well may have been a stick of butter rounding out the quartet.
Subjected to sandwiches as much of the nightly smoked meats are not offered at lunch, though some can be had as part of a platter, the second course of food progressed through four more selections with the chicken sandwich moist and pleasant, though falling far short of its billing while the tri-tip was a bit more chewy than I’d have preferred – the brined brisket faring a bit better beneath the unnecessary cheese while the pulled pork was Carolina quality, a must order for those fancying that sort of barbeque.
Greeted at this point by the pastry chef, manager, and afternoon’s chef de partie, all offering compliments regarding our order, it was with a somewhat awkward exchange that the table was offered a complimentary selection of each of the restaurant’s desserts and while thankful for the gesture I still question the motivations considering the fact that only the banana pudding was supposedly available for lunch – a damned shame, really, as the mason-jar presentation was not really all that impressive compared to the refreshingly tart baked pudding, molten hot cobbler, or outstanding ice-cream cake that managed the tough task of offering a new and delicious take on something tried and true.
The Stack – Buttermilk Fried Chicken, Bacon, Egg, Belgian Waffle with Cayenne Maple Aioli served with sautéed Kale and Onions
French Toast – Thick Cut Sweet Bread, Oven-Baked, with Blackberry Jam and Goat Cheese Glaze
Located in Valley Village, and decked out with the work of local artists beneath the gleam of natural lighting from overhead skylights, Steampunk Coffee Bar is one of those places that always sparked curiosity, and without much to do between breakfast and lunch it was just after 9am that I entered to find smiling servers, gearworks amidst wood, and a small menu of reinterpreted brunch classics.
Far less trendy than the name would suggest, with patrons ranging from a small tech-group brainstorming in the corner to an elderly man and his dog, it was to mellow tunes that the mid-morning meal was set and opting to go with items designated as ‘signatures’ as well as a personal favorites the three courses that followed were, at best, a mixed bag.
Marred by artificial maple syrup despite price-to-portion ratios that could have easily afforded the real thing, it was shortly following a smallish wedge of unmemorable coffee cake that the proper part of the meal began and although one is forced to admit that the kale is as good as the rumors neither the under-crisped chicken nor the flaccid waffle were particularly remarkable in the least – a sweet/savory ‘signature’ done better at dozens of other spots and thus not really warranting the John Hancock designation at all.
Wandering the web via Free Wi-Fi during a requested wait between plates it was just shy of 10:15 when the French Toast arrived, and this time entirely eschewing syrup to instead focus on nuance suffice it to say that although a bit dry in the middle the thick slice of Hawaiian bread shined – each bite a toasty juxtaposition of yeast and sugar beneath a lacquer of jam and subtly funky cream.
Uh-Oh Oreo Pancakes – Oreo, Marshmallow, Walnut on Buttermilk Pancakes
Peaches & Crunch French Toast – Hawaiian Bread French Toast dipped in Corn Flakes and Almonds, topped with Caramelized Peaches and Whipped Cream with Sweet Cinnamon Honey Butter
Pain Perdu – Apples & Walnuts topped on an egg-dipped Croissant, Baked ‘beyond perfection’
Located in a Burbank Shopping plaza, humorously adjacent to Jenny Craig, the slogan of “Breakfast is Everything” immediately sold me on Bea Bea’s as the first stop after arriving in town and with 21-types of Pancakes and 19-styles of French Toast the only real questions were which sounded best and how much appetite I wanted to invest in the experience.
A bustling space, with diners of all ages and ethnicities quickly filling seats to capacity just one hour after the 7am opening, the décor at Bea Bea’s can best be described as ‘stripped-down’ and although creature comforts are few and far between the service is the sort to which most breakfast and brunch spots should aspire to be – friendly, efficient, full of recommendations, and quick to fill a cup…time and time again.
Unable to trim the abundant options to fewer than three, even after full descriptions and suggestions from the staff, it was eventually in two rounds of food that the meal took place and with each plate carrying a $10.95 charge and take-home boxes already in hand the tasting kicked off with a duo; the “Uh-Oh Oreo” Pancakes proving doughy and underwhelming as toppings were relegated to only the top cake while two thick wedges of custard-soaked yet crunchy French Toast fared far better beneath steamy stonefruit and whipped cream – a combination making the artificial maple syrup entirely unnecessary as house-blended cinnamon-honey better slowly melted into a tan, fragrant stream.
Saving the pure maple syrup from home as an accoutrement to the 25-minute prep-time finale it was almost like clockwork that the third plate arrived, and billed as the restaurant’s signature suffice it to say that the words on the menu present only the slightest of mistakes as buttery croissants arrived melded to fresh apples, walnuts, eggs, and custard forming something that harkens both bread pudding and Original Pancake House’s Famous Apple Pancake…all of it perfect, and not one bit ‘beyond.’
Castella Cake – Green Tea Ice Cream, Black Honey, Mochi
Shiso Berries – Lychee Sorbet and Pocky Stick
Newly inhabiting the short-lived Buldogi Café space, and featuring the kitchen talents of Little Buddha/Blue Ribbon veteran Gregg Fortunato while owner Peter Chen runs the front of house, it was just after 7:00pm that a friend and I sat down to dinner at Inyo Asian Variety and allowing the chef to serve us omakase it was nearly three hours later that we emerged – a total of fifteen plates featuring nearly two-dozen impressive items enjoyed at a grand total of $116 before tax and tip.
Wide ranging in scope, with a menu still in flux, the overall concept behind Inyo is best described as ‘tapas’ and without a single item ringing in at more than $9.95, with several less than five bucks, it seems almost impossible that the quality of produce, protein, and technique is as impressive as a first look would indicate – the chef clearly using the knowledge gleaned in fine dining environs to select local producers and sources allowing the cuisine to shine while offering a veritable bargain to those finding their way through Inyo’s front door.
Starting off with one of several styles of tea, repeatedly filled throughout the evening by Mr. Chen who proved to be a perfect host, it was in a selection of pickles ranging from Japan to Korea that the meal began and quickly transitioning to a quartet of cold plates one would be hard pressed to decide which of the options was most impressive, the shredded tartare melting on the tongue with fried lotus chips offered for texture while both the thinly sliced Hirame and silken tofu were enlivened by acid as opposed to getting lost in it, a similar statement applicable to crispy Suomono served to cleanse the palate between fish.
Transitioning next to warm tapas it was unfortunate that a few of the smaller clams served as part of Yaki Hama were a bit dried out when compared to larger specimens, but moving on to a course of braised pork belly paired to a large cut of daikon cooked nearly as tender the small gaff was almost immediately forgotten, a follow-up sampling of each of the restaurant’s three styles of wings proving an abrupt textural change-of-pace with crispy skin overlying juicy flesh and spice profiles that challenged my Midwestern palate with the heated Gochugaru while dialing it back and slapping the tastebuds with umami and sweetness in the Japanese Tebasaki style quartet.
At this point opting to show off his skills with the Binchotan charcoal grill it was to six skewers that the table was treated and paired with three different salts, the best flecked with Toagarashi, it would again be a challenge to name a ‘best of,’ though all things being equal none were quite as impressive as the items served at Raku just a few weeks prior – even though they did tally a significantly lower charge.
Entering the home stretch with a low bowl filled with tender cubed steak topped by crispy garlic alongside what is perhaps the best $6.95 one can spend on Spring Mountain in the form of a large bowl of glistening fried rice teaming with picked crab beneath a crown of fried egg it was suddenly here that we found ourselves the only patrons left in the place and although desserts would prove light and elegant, if not particularly ‘memorable,’ the overall experience is one I’ll not wait long to revisit – a skilled chef and passionate owner already showing promise to do big things.
FOUR STARS: Already impressive in their first week of service, while operating with a skeleton crew, suffice it to say that with a few menu tweaks Inyo truly could be Chinatown’s “Next Big Thing,” a phrase often trumpeted for far less qualified kitchens dotted up and down Spring Mountain as well as Las Vegas Blvd South that charge upwards of twice the price.
RECOMMENDED: Crab Fried Rice, Buta No Kakuni, Salmon Belly Tartare
AVOID: Yaki Hama
TIP: BYOB with no corkage until they receive their pending liquor license; now open at 5pm until at least 1am Tuesday through Sunday, 2am on Friday and Saturday.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Pav Bhaji – Mixed Sauce of Mashed Vegetables garnished with Butter and Cilantro with Toasted Buns
Bombay Butter Chicken with Butter Naan and Basmati Rice – Tandoori Chicken cooked in Tomato blended Sauces with Chilies, Honey, Cashew, Cream
Bombay Lamb Masala with Butter Naan and Basmati Rice – Tender cooked Lamb Bites cooked in famous curry sauces
Five Herb Noodles – Wok Tossed Egg Noodles
Paan Shot – Betel Leaf thickened with Milk
Chocolate Samosa – Crispy Filo Pastry filled with dark chocolate
Admittedly entering New Zealand one-off Urban Turban with mixed feelings based on the tardiness of a tablemate and previous experiences with below average Indian cuisine outside of hot spots in BC or DC it was just after 5:15 when the owner/operator stopped by the table at Urban Turban to explain the concept of ‘tapas’ and having already perused the menu through the assistance of Yelp pictures, as the restaurant apparently cannot update a simple website, a large order was soon crafted – our server not really offering much aside from the occasional water refill and dropping-off of plates.
Located in a small plaza off Paradise, just a minute from the Hard Rock Hotel and Casino by car, Urban Turban is the sort of place one wants to like on entering, and with largely benign décor aside from the whimsical rickshaw sitting beside the hostess podium the focus seems to be on the food moreso than the scene – a wide view of a gleaming kitchen flanked by chalkboards revealing a number of Chef’s working diligently on plates whose results would unfortunately prove average, at best.
Starting off with appetizers before progressing to proper plates and curries it was with a trio of free Papadum that the meal began and with the flavor mostly that of oil it was thankfully the mango chutney that made the crisp pastry far more interesting, though the green ‘mint’ version was flavored much like bile – overly heated, viciously acidic, and not particularly something one should strive for in any sort of cuisine.
Next served a quintet of plates that quickly covered the table it was with some confusion that I looked upon a menu item described as “Dry Fruit Whole Wheat Bread” and with neither fruit nor nuts evident I attest to this moment we were simply served the wrong thing, though the server assured us this was indeed the correct item.
Largely ignoring the lack of fruit and instead using the ‘whole wheat’ Naan to scoop up the first bites of a duo of Pav, suffice it to say that unless one is vegetarian the Lamb version shows far superior to a more traditional take that serves as little more than muddled vegetable mush meant to be served on bread and turning attention to an impressive Paneer Tikka presentation with tangy cubes amidst earthy aromatics it was a thankful circumstance that the Samosa Chat was only lightly drizzled with green chutney, thus allowing one to augment the largely flavorless pocket with the red version instead.
Investing the rest of our appetites in bottomless curries that featured excellent basmati rice and par-for-the-course buttered Naan alongside bowls containing less than two ounces of protein each, it can only be said that at prices ranging $10-$17 the better bet is to visit one of the many local Indian buffets if one is merely looking for a ‘fill up’ and partaking lightly in the dirty tastingLamb Masala as well as overly sweet Buttered Chicken a bit of credit is due to the owner for suggesting the seemingly out-of-place noodles – a show stopper of well-tuned aromatics that at least gives one hope that the kitchen could improve the rest of the recipes as time goes on.
Ordering three Paan Shots that again saw the kitchen offer up something balanced and refined it was largely the lack of traditional Indian desserts that led to the final selection of Chocolate Samosas, but having experienced a similarly underwhelming dessert at Nosh & Swig just a few months prior it can only be said that this one was slightly better – the house made ice cream and melted chocolate at least helping to offset the same oily taste that had marred the papadum, though the $7.95 price tag seemed rather excessive for something so underwhelming and small.
TWO STARS: Suggested as ‘urban tapas,’ and thus seeming to purport a modern take on tradition, Urban Turban really only seems to shine when sticking to simpler plates and with ingredients that really seem no better than the typical Indian Buffet in an environment that does little to wow there seems very little reason to return, let alone support another restaurant import when places like Mint seem to be satisfying locals just fine.
RECOMMENDED: Paneer Tikka, Lamb Kheema Pav, Five Herb Noodles
AVOID: Green Chutney, Bombay Lamb Masala, Pav Bhaj
TIP: Having not been to any of the Vegas Indian buffets but noting their prices to range $12-$20 depending on date and time it seems worth noting that the total bill was $42 per person after tax and a modest tip, not exactly a deal considering the quality of the food or the ingredients contained.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Salted Caramel French Toast – Cinnamon Sticky Bun + Hazelnuts + Banana Maple Syrup
Twice impressed by Redrock Hotel and Casino’s Hearthstone while also finding some exquisite dishes on Chef Brian Massie’s menus at Citizens and FIX it was with high expectations that myself and two friends approached Summerlin’s newest weekend brunch and arriving to find the room far more laid back in the early afternoon hours as light flooded the elongated space it can only be said that as good as dinners have been, the nine items experienced at brunch were perhaps even better.
Still featuring a soundtrack that ranges from Snoop Dogg to Johnny Cash, with volume switching to the game once the NFL divisional playoffs began, it was at one of the elevated curved booths that our party sat and with the menu already showing a few tweaks from the one sent regarding a PR event on January 17th a feast was quickly assembled, the amicable servers deciding to send plates out in four rounds with Chef Massie stopping by more than once to discuss the concepts and show-off a few of his more prized creations.
Serving Lavazza coffee, with refills never left for want, it was with a light start that our meal began and although generally not one to order grapefruit the brown sugar bruleed half was far better than the usual while also proving an excellent counterpart to what may just be the city’s best sticky bun – a flower adorned pull-apart with a slightly crunchy exterior overlying a springy center as notes of yeast peaked through ample cinnamon and frosting that managed the tough act of being sweet without overwhelming the rest.
Moving next to a duo of brunch specific side dishes, along with a lightly charred boat-shaped bread listed under the section titled “Breakfast Georgians,” suffice it to say that although many are likely unfamiliar with Khachapurri, in general, Chef Massie’s upscale take on the Eastern European tradition was outstanding with smoke, salt, cream, and crunch all well represented while both the onion tinged hash and slow-roasted potato ‘poutine’ were equally impressive reinventions – the later featuring 3-step potatoes that are first roasted and then allowed to rest below pork-fat dripping from the spit before finally being crisped and paired to squeaky curds – a bit more pork and gravy putting the whole plate over the top.
Opting next for the $50 ‘for two’ Porchetta, and in fact that first table to ever order the dish, it was with a special presentation from the chef that I was allowed to crack the skin with a brisk tap from a knife and returning the round to the kitchen for plating and presentation the flavors proved no less impressive than the shatter, each mouthful of flavorful loin loaded with spices and texture while warm tortillas and lightly spiced sauce proved a perfect accoutrement not only to the pork but to a large bowl of eggs that my friend dubbed “the Robuchon potatoes of eggs – 50% cheese and 50% egg,” give or take some cream.
Rounding out the experience with ‘desserts,’ that would equally impress as entrees it was with another trio of plates that we were presented and although the duck confit was not quite as flavorful as the similarly themed plate at FIX the toothsome waffle was a perfect delivery mechanism for tastes both sweet and savory, the pancakes and French Toast each leaning far further towards the former with surprising complexity offered in the lightness of each base with all sorts of texture offered by accoutrements ranging from creamy ricotta and cream cheese frosting to crumbled cookies and crushed nuts, all beneath the sheen of syrup and bursting berries.
FIVE STARS: At this point having experienced no less than thirty different items from the Hearthstone kitchen, and becoming more enamored by the spot with each and every bite, I finally feel comfortable in saying that there is perhaps no better “American” restaurant in the city of Las Vegas and with menu changes set to occur in the coming months I simply cannot wait to return – a ‘destination’ less than a half mile from my door.
RECOMMENDED: Porchetta & Eggs for 2, Cinnamon Sticky Bun (or even better upgraded into the Salted Caramel French Toast,) Rotisserie Pork Poutine.
AVOID: If you’ve had the Duck and Waffles at FIX it is a pass at Hearthstone, though if you’ve not it is still quite good. Also, although I’ll drink it I remain underwhelmed by Lavazza.
TIP: Featuring several cocktails, a bloody Mary bar, and the full charcuterie and cheese menu plus the ability to hang out in the lounge for as long as one likes this isn’t the sort of brunch you rush through, particularly with the NFL playoffs ongoing and March Madness soon to come.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Southern Princess Cupcake – Red Velvet Cake, Cream Cheese Buttercream
Peanut Butter Chocolate Chunk Cookie
Sassy Snickerdoodle
Imported by Southern California and newly opened at Downtown Summerlin it was a mid-morning snack that led to a stop at Wonderland Bakery and with the sort of saccharine service meant to appeal to children and their soccer moms paired to overpriced low-quality sweets one only ‘wonders’ how long Wonderland will last.
Cutesy in décor with a selection of fused-glass plates, cupcake purses, and princess-themed items clearly targeting an audience around six-years old it was to a tic-tac sized taste of overly sweet Peanut Butter and Jelly that I was greeted near the door and thankful that the bite would prevent me from investing $4.50 in that item it was with wide eyes that the rest of the items were perused – the prices harkening Bouchon, Jean-Phillipe, or Payard with presentations closer to that of Von’s or Albertson’s…certainly not Whole Foods, while one must also wonder if the ingredients are even held to the same standards.
Figuring it was best to taste before judging it was to “Ohmygod, everything is so yummy” recommendations that questions about specific items were met and eventually giving up in trying to cull the options it was in old-standbys that a tasting was invested – a dense hockey puck feigning as a Peanut Butter Chocolate Chip Cookie tasted shortly after leaving the store while the rest was held over for a few hours later.
Finding the $3.75 Snickerdoodle slightly more palatable than the aforementioned disc, though far harder than usual despite ample butter beneath a lot of sugar and less cinnamon than one would hope, it was onward to a small cupcake that the tasting progressed and ringing in at the same price as each cookie for a rather small sample the cake was virtually flavorless beneath smooth and sweet frosting, another disappointment since the retailer purported that the Red Velvet was just being made when I arrived, forcing me to stand around waiting as a tiny train circled the ceiling while giving me time to take a look at the small Sprinkle Bar party room at the store’s back.
Finishing the quartet with a $4.50 Brownie that was undoubtedly the best bite of the bunch, as rich dark chocolate proved more than capable of standing up to substantial caramel drizzle, it was just moments prior to halftime of the Patriots vs. Ravens playoff game that nearly half of the rest found its way to the trash and out nearly $16 for what would amount perhaps a dozen bites of food were one actually inclined to eat it all suffice it to say there are better ways to invest both cash and calories whether you are six, sixteen, or sixty.
ONE AND A HALF STARS: High prices and low quality have never really made good business partners and no matter how sweet Wonderland Bakery tries to be everything from the cheap clamshell packages to the generic purple bags to lack of branding on the products in-store indicates that this is a place looking only to make a quick buck – something they may do once, but certainly not repeatedly. Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice…
RECOMMENDED: Skipping this place, or, if you must – order a brownie.
AVOID: Cookies, Cupcakes, asking questions that the staff will simply smile mindlessly through.
TIP: Located next to the soon-to-open Gelato Messina and across from Its Sugar those with children are advised to avoid this stretch of Downtown Summerlin unless they plan to argue with or ignore the “I want, I want” outburst likely to follow.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Mashed Potato Bites – Creamy House Made Mashed Potatoes with cheddar, pepper jack, and parmesan, spices. Served with chipotle sour cream and ranch.
Croque Madame – Swiss, Ham, Bechamel, Eggs, Hash Browns
Chicken and Waffles – Fried Chicken drizzled with caramel chipotle sauce, waffles
French Toast – Bread Pudding with Banana Foster Sauce
Coffee
Located just a mile from my front door, and recently offering brunch as only a 24/7 ‘Local Bar’ in Las Vegas can, it was just after 8am that I entered Distill and with the crew mopping floors as a few locals sat playing video slots beneath the echoes of KISS’s “Shout it Out Loud” it was to a Please Seat Yourself sign that I was greeted – a seat in the upper rim selected with a young woman named Chrissy interrupting her duties of setting up the Bloody Mary Bar to procure me a menu, water, and the first of several cups of surprisingly good coffee.
Offering a 24/7 menu of items ranging from snacks, sandwiches, and salads to entrees and even hearty breakfasts it was largely for the weekend-only 8a-2p brunch that I’d scheduled my first visit to Distill and ordering in two rounds with every item recommended as a good choice by both my server and Assistant GM Kristyne, who stopped by to chat no less than three times, the meal unfolded in four plates that all showed surprising creativity and execution one would generally see reserved for far more ‘fancy’ spots.
Beginning savory, it was with a paper-lined cone full of tender cheesy potatoes beneath a golden topcoat that the meal began, and paired with a duo of sauces from which the smoky sour cream was undoubtedly a standout the flavors were up front without a bit of the greasiness oft associated with fried potatoes – the hashbrowns served next to a competent croquet madame for example, though the sandwich itself was little more than ham, egg, and cheese on toast as the Bechamel was a touch too thick and unfortunately under-flavored.
Moving on to two more brunch-specific selections, as the soundtrack shifted briefly to Pink and copious coffee refills continued, round two saw the arrival of two substantially larger entrees and although the chicken tenders proved no better than the sort one would expect at a decent pub the waffle was executed beautifully with a crunchy exterior and springy crumb, the spicy sauce keeping sweet caramel in check – a sense of balance equally achieved by three thick slices of custard-soaked breaded seared crisp with sticky bananas foster finding its foil in a toasty layer of nuts.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Far exceeding modest expectations in terms of food, scene, and customer service with prices trending far lower than several other spots in the city it is only a matter of time before I return to Distill and although I’m certainly not the bar’s target audience for booze and games I also look forward to seeing whether the quality carries over to Elixir and Remedy’s, the Henderson based members of their growing 24/7 family.
RECOMMENDED: Bread Pudding French Toast (weekends only,) and Mashed Potato Bites.
AVOID: While not ‘bad,’ the Croque was marred by mediocre Bechamel – though I credit Distill for trying such a thing when even places twice its price point cannot make a competent version.
TIP: With a soundtrack ranging from Led Zeppelin to Gn’R and The Doors plus no smoking aside from a few folks at the bar and free Wi-Fi a breakfast or brunch at Distill is perhaps the perfect alternative to similar 24/7 spots on the strip where a meal will set you back nearly 2-fold, not to mention the ‘resort fees’ and blasting Britney Spears.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
