Endo Edibles

March 4, 2014
5:08 PM
by: Uhockey

FT33, Dallas TX

FT33

Sourdough and Rosemary Focaccia

Coppa di Testa and Snail Tortelloni, Leeks, Fine Herbs, Mangalitza Pancetta

Heirloom Polenta, Mushrooms, Farm Egg, Radish, Chervil

Lac Brome Duck, Black Pudding, Apple, Parsnip, Puffed Grain

Valrhona Dulcey, Pear, Gingersnap, Bourbon Caramel

Cabot Clothbound Cheddar, Hazelnut, Financier, Caramelized Apple

Featuring the talents of Chef Matt Mccallister, a well traveled young man whose training includes time with names like Vetri, Achatz, and Brock it was at the urging of not only trusted sources but my servers at Foreign & Domestic, Oddfellows, Stephan Pyles, The Mansion, and Hypnotic Donuts that “Modern Farmer’s Market” inspired FT33 was shoehorned into my packed agenda – my 5:30 arrival for a 6:00pm opening landing me a seat at Table 33 peering directly into the kitchen. Heavy in wood with personality pieces such as cookbooks and mementos distributed about the space in a manner akin to San Francisco’s Saison my walk-in reservation was greeted with smiles from chefs plus servers alike and unfortunately unable to partake in the tasting menu without advanced notice the five courses that followed were nothing short of stunning. Strong on technique and simple preparations meant to coax maximum flavor out of the best of the day’s bounty it was with hot bread and fresh butter that I began and with service trumping both Pyles and Fearing’s eponymous dining rooms the courses began a steady march from the kitchen – each building on the last and showing the chef’s well honed-skills as nearly translucent pasta rivaled that of Marc Vetri while both the polenta and duck trumped anything I enjoyed at Husk, instead harkening memories of a landmark meal at McCrady’s with regard to sourcing, preparation, and presentation. Previously downgraded on desserts but clearly turning the page with the addition of a new pastry chef and more space for the team to work it was in the sweets that things took a turn to the ‘modernist’ and although both plates found use of crumbles, gels, and ISI canisters the plates only seemed to benefit as flavors remained robust and natural while textures wowed. Undoubtedly due its substantial accolades and clearly rewarded by diners and peers as the most ‘exciting’ restaurant in Dallas, FT33 is best regarded as destination dining and should it continue to develop as it is I’ve little doubt it will become exactly that – a reason in itself to visit Dallas with national awards and recognition to match.

http://ft33dallas.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Dallas, Dessert, Food, FT33, Pork, Texas, Vacation

March 4, 2014
12:45 PM
by: Uhockey

Cane Rosso, Dallas TX

Cane Rosso

Margherita – half prosciutto cotto

Bag of Zeppole – Chocolate and Caramel Sauces

Iced Espresso

Separated from breakfast by a long visit to the Lady Bird Johnson Botanical Garden, Mardi Gras lunch was the first in a highly anticipated trio of Texas pizzerias – Deep Ellum’s oft raved purveyor of authentic Neapolitan pies, Cane Rosso. Owned and operated by Jay Jerrier and focused on strict VPN standards including a wood-burning oven, “00” flour-based dough proofed in a separate dough room, sauce crushed from San Marzanos, plus house pulled fior di latte it was to a nearly full house and the sounds of Led Zeppelin I that I arrived and cozying up to the bar my order was swift, service was superb, and ten minutes later my lightly charred pie arrived. As standard-marking a pizza as can be ordered in such a place, half garnished with nutty prosciutto, it can only be said that Canne Rosso’s Margherita is exactly as good as its ingredients and although the purist in me would have liked to see a DOP with imported mozzarella the house version was impressively grassy and a fine balance to springy blistered crust and bright acid. Intrigued by dessert and hand pulled shots of espresso it was on my bartender’s recommendation that I skipped the signature calzone and tiramisu in favor of light Italian Donuts, unstuffed and featuring the same delicate dough quality as the pizzas, beneath a mountain of sugar harkening NOLA beignets…good on their own, but all the better with sidecars of rich chocolate and house made caramel I’d swear to be spiked with rum given its depth of flavor, though my server swore it was not.

http://www.ilcanerosso.com/

Posted in Cane Rosso, Coffee, Dallas, Dessert, Food, Pizza, Pork, Texas, Vacation

March 4, 2014
7:59 AM
by: Uhockey

Bread Winners Cafe, Dallas TX

Bread Winners Cafe

Peach Muffins and Orange Marmalade Coffee Cake

Carrot Cake

Banana Bread French Toast

Part of a small local chain of ‘quick casual’ restaurants, Bread Winner’s Café was chosen for Mardi Gras breakfast based on the false premise of King Cake, the server over the phone failing to inform me that unlike the restaurants other baked goods this cake would not be offered by the slice but rather as a whole and only to those who’d preordered – the news almost leading me out the door, but the rest of the menu compelling me to stay…a choice that service again would make me regret. Lovely in design and complimentary warm baked goods delivered to each table it was with some indecision that I perused the menu after my server tried to sell me on a Fat Tuesday themed cookie or cupcake in place of the aforementioned glazed ring but eventually settling on a pair of favorites my table may as well have been invisible, coffee and water both left empty until I literally stood up and walked to the server’s station for attention fifteen minutes later. Opting for carrot cake first, the procurement of an overly sweetened and underspiced slice from the bakery case up front inexplicably necessitating a quarter hour, it was quick on the cake’s heels that my primary plate arrived and although the toasty exterior and soft centered banana bread far outshined the items before it the flavors were still only average – a situation not helped by artificial maple syrup and another empty cup of coffee, the later nearly emptying the tip line of my check as a half-filled restaurant on a weekday simply has no excuse for such negligence.

http://www.breadwinnerscafe.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Bread Winner's Cafe, Breakfast, Coffee, Dallas, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Texas, Vacation

March 4, 2014
6:45 AM
by: Uhockey

Hypnotic Donuts, Dallas TX

Hypnotic Donuts

Olivia – Honey Biscuit with Fried Chicken

Jenny’s Evil Elvis – Yeast Raised Donut, Peanut Butter, Bacon, Banana, Honey

Breaking Bad – Chocolate Cake, Salted Caramel Icing, Sea Salt

Peace’statio – Vanilla Cake, Brown Butter Glaze, Crushed Pistachios

Blueberry Fritter

Apple Fritter

Blueberry Cake

Not a particularly convenient drive from my temporary quarters in Irving, Hypnotic Donuts came highly recommended by a pair of Dallas fine dining servers and with as self stated goal to “create the ultimate donut experience” an early Mardi Gras morning visit was planned. Small in size but big in personality with a sugar-sweet and smiling staff it was just after 7:30am when I arrived at Hypnotic and with hot donuts still emerging from the kitchen decisions were further complicated by an array of biscuits I was promised to be ‘the best in Dallas” by clerk and customer alike – my eventual order tallying a half dozen donuts plus an entirely oversized fluffy catshead biscuit potentially living up to the hyperbole with a light drizzle of honey and spicy golden chicken breast serving as garnish. Focusing next on the donuts, the fritters and blueberry cake still warm, suffice it to say that Hypnotic excels in the ingredient and glaze department – both fritters surprisingly restrained despite liberal application of the later – and while the yeasted starter was a bit doughy for my tastes all three cake options excelled with a dense crumb and not a hint of grease, the brownie-rich “Breaking Bad” particularly well done with light crunch from the added salt, though the brown butter-pistachio pairing was none too shabby itself.

http://www.hypnoticdonuts.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Dallas, Dessert, Food, Hypnotic Donuts, Pork, Texas, Vacation

March 3, 2014
8:25 PM
by: Uhockey

Stephan Pyles, Dallas TX

Stephan Pyles

2012 Sauternes

Blue corn muffin, Buttermilk biscuit, Cheddar Focacia, Butter Roll, Salted Butter

Cauliflower Soup with Chili Oil

Nova Scotia Halibut, Tamale Tart, Roast Garlic Custard, Crab, Tomato Sauce

Agave Seared Foie Gras, Foie Gras “Clementine,” Mascarpone Polenta Cake, Candied Orange

Dia De Los Puercos – Flash Seared Belly Confit, Warm Rillettes Vaso with Vanilla Scented Potatoes and House Chicharron, Jamon Serrano, Crispy Pig’s Ear, Apple Variations

Maple Leaf Farms Duck Breast, White Wheat Berry, Cashew Butter, Milk, Kumquat, Carrot Leaf

Coriander Rubbed Rack of Lamb, Ecuadorian Potato Cake, Tomatillo Green Beans, Cranberry Variations, Rosemary Jus

Stephan’s Heaven & Hell Cake – Angelfood, Devil’s Food, Peanut Butter Mousse, Milk Chocolate Ganache, Raspberry Sorbet + Coffee and Doughnuts with Cajeta

Chocolate and Cherry Truffles, Apricot Pate de Fruit, Vanilla Marshmallow

Seemingly a hot topic around Dallas fine dining for years, part of my visit to the city was set aside to answer the question of whether classic fine dining had faded in the kitchens of two of their most celebrated chefs, Stephan Pyles and Dean Fearing, the former serving up a late night gem despite a rocky start. Located downtown and timed for dinner after a Dallas Stars game it was to an already dwindling dining room that I arrived and greeted after a pronounced wait at the podium I took my seat and waited another ten minutes before a single server greeted me – my displeasure immediately expressed and everything running like clockwork thereafter – a six course tasting menu crafted in the beautiful open kitchen for a mere $75 and featuring nearly every dish I’d have hand selected a la carte. Clearly keeping the kitchen open later than a typical Monday as I was the last seated diner for the night my meal began with good bread and after the light amuse a gussied up version of Pyles’ signature tart arrived just as good as the rumors with smoke and acid prominent beneath sweet crab plus tender sous-vide halibut added to round out the plate – the first in a succession of three courses building in nuance and complexity only to step back, reflect, and blow me away with the fourth – a perfect piece of duck served over rich milk porridge thickened with creamy cashews and brought to a point with the sweetest of my favorite fruits. With lamb and two desserts certainly well done, particularly the trademark cake, but largely lost in the bliss of the duck I will simply say that if Pyles has indeed fallen off as some would suggest it must have been quite the sight to behold ‘back in the day.’

http://www.stephanpyles.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Cornbread, Crab, Dallas, Dessert, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, Pork, Stephan Pyles, Tasting Menu, Texas, Vacation

March 3, 2014
2:53 PM
by: Uhockey

Village Baking Co, Dallas TX

Village Baking Company

Kouign Amann

Chocolate Canele

Canele

Almond Croissant

Traditional in technique but rife with imagination, Clint Cooper’s “The Village Baking Company” is one of those places I imagine tourists rarely see, the small building on University Boulevard tucked away in Upper Greenville and visually not much to look at from outside – the nose a far better gauge of what is going on within the brick walls as smells of butter, yeast, and cinnamon fill the air. Small in size but varied in selection with laminated pastry and leavened breads present in plethora alongside tempting muffins, tarts, cookies, and much more it was with friendly smiles that I was greeted and with wide eyes perusing the options but a mind towards meals past and to come some restraint was shown to the tune of four selections tallying $13.50 taken elsewhere to eat as the weather remained unfavorable to the outdoor-only tables. Focusing on the personal favorites I frequent to judge a French bakery’s skills, plus one novelty, it was with a crunch meets custard canele that I began and moving on to its chocolate sibling I was admittedly impressed – the crisp exterior breaking to rich chocolate akin to Keller’s bouchons but superior in texture and richness; a dozen with a cup of coffee could have been consumed with ease. Moving next to more favorites, it was to a messy shatter of powdered sugar, toasty almonds, and hundreds of buttery layers that I greeted the almond croissant – reference standard and balanced in its rich frangipane, albeit a touch sweet with the added sugar, and moving last to the Kouign Amann suffice it to say that Cooper and Company don’t hold back on the butter, the crunchy puck so rich that the coffee I should have ordered from the start became mandatory, making me wonder whether the two fruit tinged versions would have proven more balanced – a question I’ll have to answer on my next trip to The Big-D.

http://www.villagebakingco.com/

Posted in Canele, Croissant, Dallas, Dessert, Food, Texas, Vacation, Village Baking Co., Village Baking Company

March 3, 2014
1:32 PM
by: Uhockey

Society Bakery, Dallas TX

Society Bakery

Banana Cream Tart, Elvis Tart, Maple Scone, Oatmeal Raisin Cookie, Spinach Quiche Samples

Banana Pudding Cupcake

Pecan Praline Cupcake

Red Velvet Cupcake

Carrot Cake Cupcake

Iced Espresso

If I walk in the door and you greet me with a smile plus samples of cakes, cookies, scones, and quiche there is little doubt I’m going to gush if the wares are good, and so was the case with Greenville Avenue’s Society Bakery. Cute without being ‘cutesy’ and small without being cramped it was to a wide variety of fresh baked samples and selections that I arrived and with an added bonus of espresso shots pulled to order my choices were made and a seat obtained while I waited for my drink, the evenly roasted dark brew over ice a necessary foil to the sweetness that would follow; each of four cupcakes and five samples delicate and moist with some even still warm from the open kitchen in back. Truly a Local business with a philanthropic model proudly displayed through contributions to many local and national societies it was with admitted indecision that I started the taste test of my four purchases but eventually deciding to start with the red velvet each cake that followed only got better, the carrot cake impressively spicy with cinnamon and nutmeg tamed by tangy cream cheese frosting while both filled options were pudding-dense beneath light buttercream; the signature Pecan Praline flavored exactly like its namesake candy and the banana pudding portable version of the southern classic right down to soft undertones harkening a nilla wafer.

http://www.societybakery.com/

Posted in Coffee, cupcakes, Dallas, Dessert, Food, Society Bakery, Texas, Vacation

March 3, 2014
12:40 PM
by: Uhockey

Ellen’s Southern Kitchen, Dallas TX

Ellen’s Southern Kitchen

Chicken Fried Chicken, French Toast with Poached Figs, Biscuit

Cheesy Grits

Located on Market Street and featuring a ‘breakfast all day’ menu with a “Grits Rule” mantra Ellen’s Southern Kitchen was chosen for Monday lunch largely due to its close proximity to museums and the Dallas World Aquarium, the mix n’ match a la carte menu with no lack of comfort food staples well adorned with potential to impress if the recipes were on point. One part hip, one part homey, and decidedly bustling on a chilly day with a sort of French bistro layout seeing me seated at a hightop juxtaposing the bar it was to friendly Southern service that I was treated and laying out a meal of personal favorites for just under $20 it was a short wait before everything arrived – each item nicely presented but none save for the rich, creamy grits particularly memorable as flavors more closely resembled something hashed out in a corporate boardroom than in Grandma’s kitchen. Beginning first by dressing the French Toast – golden outside but doughy and uninspired within – in figs seemingly poached in nothing but the artificial maple syrup provided in a sidecar it was next the flavorless bird beneath equally boring batter that left me deflated, a touch of hot sauce and syrup helping enough to make a fairly decent accoutrement to an average biscuit…at least for a few bites interspersed between spoonfuls of the grits…the only aspect of Ellen’s that even came close to “ruling.”

http://ellenssouthernkitchen.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Dallas, Ellen's Southern Kitchen, Food, French Toast, Texas, Vacation

March 3, 2014
7:17 AM
by: Uhockey

Oddfellows, Dallas TX

Oddfellows

Cider Braised French Toast with Vanilla Cream and Berries

Honey Waffle and Chicken, Country Gravy, Clotted Cream, Pure Maple Syrup

Bottomless Coffee

Located in the trendy Bishop Arts district and open at 7am seven days a week my first day in Dallas began at Oddfellows, the heavily wooded room and well-inked staff both seemingly direct imports from Portland or Williamsburg, but friendly Southern service, well crafted comfort foods, great coffee, and free Wi-Fi bolstering the experience to something far more than a “me too” hipster hangout. Arriving just after 7:30 sand finding the space mostly empty as light snow swirled outside I was given my choice of seats and as tunes from Phantogram played overhead I perused the menu, eventually settling on two of the five items that most appealed, the fifteen minute wait that followed filled by a few cups of coffee and local restaurant chat with my well-informed server. Quite hungry when plates simultaneously arrived it was a difficult decision as to where I should start but generally favoring sweet over savory I turned to the toast, a slightly ‘bready’ rendition with subtle spice notes plus fresh berries and cream both adding nuance, but moving next to the supple waffles and perfectly brined and crispy bird with top quality accoutrements the spotlight was immediately stolen as flavors salty, sweet, and entirely decadent wowed with each bite – the clotted cream particularly impressive on the honey tinged waffles, and all the more so with warm syrup that surprisingly worked quite well with the spicy gravy applied lightly to the chicken. Admittedly a bit bummed that the restaurant outsources its desserts – and moreso by the fact that they were out of the carrot cake because “the daily delivery got held up by the weather” suffice it to say that Oddfellows impressed enough that I’d gladly return – the pancake trio and beignets ordered by a nearby table looked divine.

http://oddfellowsdallas.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Dallas, Food, French Toast, OddFellows, Texas, Vacation, Waffles

March 2, 2014
9:20 PM
by: Uhockey

Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek, Dallas TX

Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek

Seasonal Sour – Zaya 12yr Gran Reserva Rum, Pear, Lemon, Maple, Egg White, Nutmeg

Coconut and Squash Bisque with Nori Crouton

Baguette, Bacon Onion, Sesame Parker House Roll, Lavash

Chicken and Foie Gras Terrine – Truffle, Mache, Celeriac Chips

Pheasant – Sausage, Brussels Sprouts, Pear, Chestnut, Onion

Potato Gnocchi – Butternut Squash, Hedgehog, Proscuitto

Seared Foie Gras – Compressed Apple Cake, Meyer Lemon, Raisin, Puffed Rice

Crawfish – Sweetbreads, Passionfruit, Spinach

Red Snapper – Artichoke, Saffron, Squid

Rabbit – Shiner Bock, Grits, Lardo

Venison – Celeriac, Berry, Juniper

Avocado Sorbet – Raspberry

Pear & Honey – Honey Poached Pear, Brandy Panna Cotta, Pear Sorbet, Puffed Rice

Chocolate/Sesame/Praline

Hotel, rental car, and restaurant reservations locked in months in advance a sudden ice storm across southern Texas presented quite the dilemma; count my losses and remain in Austin overnight, or brave the roads en route for Dallas…a 160 minute trip under good conditions transformed into 375 minutes of sluggish driving past no less than seven accidents, my arrival at Turtle Creek quite late but the two-and-a-half-hour carte blanche meal that followed every bit “worth a special journey.” Helmed by Chef Bruno Davaillon and housed within a 1920s mansion lavishly decorated with marble, gold, and wood of old world Europe Rosewood Mansion at Turtle Creek presents an experience akin to much of Michelin’s USA 3* sect as modern flourishes and diverse cultures meet classic French technique in the kitchen while gracious and educated service manage the front of house, both halves seeming to read my mind and palate as a parade of nine proper plates plus amuse, bread, intermezzo, and mignardises featuring many of my favorite ingredients continuously wowed. Truly a superlative meal and undoubtedly the best I experienced in Texas it would be difficult, if not entirely unfair, to name one dish that stood out amongst such an impressive progression, but if forced to focus on where Davaillon most excelled I’d simply say “game” – the pheasant, deer, and rabbit all perfectly prepared and equally well paired to let proteins shine as each accoutrement added something without once overwhelming or seeming superfluous, a tough task when working with flavors spanning from beer to pork to pear, the later also featuring prominently in a simple yet elegant dessert served following a guided tour of the restaurant, residences, and wine cellar – a lovely end to a truly memorable day.

http://www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/mansion-on-turtle-creek-dallas/dining/mansion-restaurant

Posted in Bread Basket, Dallas, Dessert, Foie, Food, Gnocchi, Ice Cream, Pork, Rosewood Mansion, Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek, Sweetbreads, Tasting Menu, Texas, Truffle, Turtle Creek, Vacation

March 2, 2014
2:41 PM
by: Uhockey

Lucy’s Fried Chicken, Austin TX

Lucy’s Fried Chicken

Chicken & Waffles – Deep Fried Waffles, Chicken Breasts, Jalapeno Honey Butter, Bacon Marmalade, Coffee Syrup

Corn Bread Muffins with Tequila Butter

Mexican Coke Sweet Potatoes

Mason Jar Banana Pudding – Custard, Vanilla Salt, Nilla Wafers, Bananas

Temporarily tied to ATX as freezing rain fell it was in College Avenue staple Lucy’s Fried Chicken that I searched for more sustenance before braving the road to Dallas during a (very) temporary break in the storm; a plate of reference-standard fried chicken over golden waffles plus equally impressive sides and dessert perhaps the best “silver lining” one could have asked for under the circumstances. Unmistakably “Austin Weird” with neon lights, funky tunes, and kitsch to spare yet at the same time laced with smiling service and plenty of Southern charm it was to a packed house that I arrived at Lucy’s and lucky to land the last open seat as brunch was about to end my order was placed quickly with subtly spiced cornbread delivered minutes later and the rest soon to follow. Having already mentioned the chicken, juicy and well seasoned beneath greaseless breading equally well spiced it was to some surprise that I found the deep fried waffles to be equally light and crisp as smoky syrup pooling as opposed of soaking in – a sweet/savory balance made all the more decadent with a touch of spreadable bacon marmalade, a topping equally well suited for the cornbread – especially when enjoyed in alternating bites with the lightly sweetened potato puree. Unable to resist desert but unable to settle on one of a half dozen pies it was to my waiter that I turned and with a quick “skip the pie, get the pudding” I knew my choice was in good hands, the eggy banana custard arriving moments later topped with house whipped cream and just a touch of crunchy finishing salt that made the whole jar pop, a simple addition to great ingredients bringing new light to a classic.

http://lucysfriedchicken.com/

Posted in Austin, Breakfast, Cornbread, Dessert, Food, Lucy’s Fried Chicken, Pork, Texas, Vacation, Waffles

March 2, 2014
12:24 PM
by: Uhockey

La Barbeque, Austin TX

La Barbeque

Brisket

Pork Ribs

Turkey

Pulled Pork

Emerging from Chez Zee to find the temperature twenty degrees cooler than when I entered as light rain fell and the radio forecasted ice I was left with a decision; head for Dallas earlier than planned or stick to my Austin agenda – the later winning out when I discovered the inclement weather to have withered La Barbeque’s line to a mere two-dozen just moments after opening…a chilly 45 minute wait soon finding justification in barbeque that I personally found to be Austin’s best – even better than that of Franklin, where I would wait 4-times as long just four days later. Located just off 6th Street in a fenced off setup featuring food-trailer, smoker, picnic pavilion which you can see from far due to the UK wipe clean tablecloths being used as flags, and free beer for those willing to wait La Barbeque features the work of Franklin protégé, John Lewis and utilizing a long smoking process over aged, seasoned post oak that can be smelled throughout the day (and night) from distances of over fifty yards the resulting product, from beef to pork to turkey comes off smoky and moist, but also just a bit sweet – the fat literally caramelized on the ribs and far-less prominent in the brisket than in the sopping wet slices of Franklin. Friendly in service and communal in feel as hip youngsters turned out plate after plate of smoky cooked meat plus a few sides, mostly ‘to go,’ it is only in retrospect that I look back on a six hour 25-mph trip to Dallas and ponder whether La Barbeque was worth it, but taking into account the best smoked turkey I’ve ever tasted plus top-3 ribs and brisket along with the best pulled pork I found in Texas I know it is an experience I’ll look back on fondly for quite some time.

http://labarbecue.com

Posted in Austin, Food, La Barbeque, Pork, Texas, Vacation

March 2, 2014
9:38 AM
by: Uhockey

Chez Zee, Austin TX

Chez Zee

Strawberry Croissant

Crème Brulee French Toast

Breakfast In Bread French Toast

Carrot Cake

Coffee

Dubbed an “American Bistro” and considered by many to be one of the best breakfasts in ATX my Sunday morning visit to Chez Zee was prompted by one thing, the restaurant’s crème brulee French Toast, but arriving early enough to beat the crowds and pending ice storm the festively decorated space would prove to be far more than just a signature dish. Homey in décor and effusively polite in service as a middle aged gent played piano in the foyer it was a team of two, including one trainee, that kept watch over my section, and with hot coffee kept brimming throughout each of my four ‘courses’ only improved on that before it; a complimentary croissant with decadent strawberry butter the only item short of exemplary in its lack of a crackling shell, though still quite good as ‘table bread’ by any other name. Moving next to items ordered, it was two triangles of the crème brulee that arrived next and dense with custard both were delicious, though largely just ‘sweet’ and generally lacking the nuance of what followed by way of the thick cut brioche Texas toast wrapped around fresh fruits entitled “Breakfast in Bread.” At this point sated yet certainly not full it was on the way to snap a few photos of the Mardi Gras decorations that I became aware of Chez Zee’s pastry case and instantly fixing my gaze on the “famous carrot cake” a slice was ordered – the $8 wedge loaded with raisins, walnuts, pineapple, and plenty of spice beneath light cream cheese frosting amongst the best I’ve had to date – even better than the cupcake at Sugar Mama’s and another delicious rendition from Cake and Spoon just six days later.

http://www.chez-zee.com/

Posted in Austin, Bread Pudding, Breakfast, Chez Zee, Coffee, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Texas, Vacation

March 2, 2014
8:14 AM
by: Uhockey

Mrs. Johnson’s Bakery, Austin TX

Mrs. Johnson’s Bakery

Blueberry Cake

Buttermilk Cake

Raised Glazed

Strawberry Glazed

Apple Fritter

Serving up fried pastries since 1948 and featuring fresh donuts at 8:40 every morning day two in Austin began at Mrs. Johnson’s, one of those old world mom n’ pop shops you simply want to love, but unfortunately one that despite friendly service and low prices I simply could not. True to their word featuring both hot fritters and simple glazed rings at my 8:45 arrival it was a mere $3.59 cash exchanged for my five selections yet with not a single option save for the buttermilk cake warranting more than a single bite the low tab still did not seem like a deal – the yeasted options doughy and lacking in flavor, the blueberry cake insipid and artificial, and the fritter flaccid and full of oil while lacking in fruit. Traveled enough to have eaten more than my fair share of donuts both ‘classic’ and ‘gourmet’ it can only be assumed that Mrs. Johnson’s has survived its 66 years on the strength of low prices and local childhood memories, but with stores like Angel and Ken’s both turning out superior products at similar prices I think it is best to just leave this one to the locals…a rare case where even Dunkin or Krispy Kreme provide better bang for the buck.

http://www.mjbakery.com/

Posted in Austin, Breakfast, Food, Mrs. Johnson's Bakery, Texas, Vacation

March 1, 2014
9:09 PM
by: Uhockey

Sway, Austin TX

Sway

Chicken Wings – Chili Tamarind Caramel, Fish Sauce, Ginger, Cilantro

Shu Mai – Pork, Shrimp, Fermented Bean, “so good” chili vinegar

Thai Iced Tea

Son In Law – Crispy Farm Egg, Braised Pork Shoulder, Thick Soy, Nahm Prik Pla

Miso Sweet Potato Mash

Banana Split – Milk Chocolate 5-spice, condensed milk-cashew caramel swirl ice cream, black sesame brownie

From the neon lotus signage to the trendy courtyard and communal tables, 1st Street Thai/Asian Fusion hot-spot Sway can best be described by the word “busy” – a term applicable to everything from the cramped seating and earsplitting noise to the unfocused menu and thinly-spread staff. Obviously not expecting traditional Thai but doing my best to focus on novel takes on personal favorites it was to a duo of appetizers, one side, and two of the restaurant’s signatures that I turned and although only the flavorless Mash was truly ‘bad,’ only the Banana Split…which certainly is not big enough for 3-4…and its complex balance of pan-Asian flavors was truly memorable. Seemingly focused more on the scene than the cuisine both chicken wings and shu mai were undersized and overcooked, though flavors were well presented, and moving last to the oft-raved ‘son in law,’ a seemingly can’t-miss combination of pork and egg, suffice it to say that this rice bowl is no better or worse than the sum of its parts…decent but nothing special, much like the restaurant as a whole.

http://swayaustin.com/

Posted in Austin, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Pork, Sway, Texas, Vacation

March 1, 2014
5:42 PM
by: Uhockey

Foreign & Domestic, Austin TX

Foreign and Domestic

Rabbit Mortadella with Tangerine Jam, Pickles, Brioche

Split Pea Soup with Bacon Jam and Balsamic

Gruyere Popovers

Fried Chicken Biscuit with Red Eye Gravy

Chocolate Cake with Coffee Cream, Roasted Pecans, Vanilla Ice Cream

One of many chef-driven restaurants in the city North Austin’s Foreign & Domestic was nearly scratched from my itinerary due to a cancelled flight, but having read nothing but praise for Ned Elliot’s locally-sourced cuisine a last minute decision was hatched to pay the small no-reservations restaurant a 5:30 visit; a seat at the chef’s counter, superlative service, and five impressive small plates my reward. Taking into account the daily shifting menu while also focusing on the ‘limited supply’ classics it was with an eye on both diversity and capacity that perused the menu and after speaking with both servers and the chefs before me the meal began with the house made ‘daily charcuterie with things we like,’ in this case a creamy rabbit mortadella balanced by sour jam and briny pickles, followed by a pairing I won’t soon forget – the restaurant’s crunchy shelled and custard centered popovers alongside rich pea soup elevated to a new level by smoky bacon and bright balsamic, the former more than once finding its way dunked into the later, eventually wiping the bowl spotless. Moving next to my main course, it was difficult to pass on the porchetta for two, but minding my appetite for a later meal I opted for the oft raved chicken biscuit and setting aside the fact that the chicken is not fried-to-order the messy, spicy sandwich was quite good – though perhaps not $18 good – a far better value instead found in the thick $8 slice of chocolate cake and vanilla ice-cream, a veritable case of simplicity perfected by the addition of light coffee cream.

http://fndaustin.com/

Posted in Austin, Bread Basket, Dessert, Food, Foreign & Domestic, Foreign and Domestic, Ice Cream, Pork, Texas, Vacation

March 1, 2014
3:34 PM
by: Uhockey

Gourdough’s Public House, Austin TX

Gourdough’s Public House

Iced Coffee

Dirty Plucker – Donut with hand battered fried chicken, honey butter, maple icing

Cream Corn

Count Gourdough Cristo – Turkey, Ham, Swiss, Red Pepper, Basil, Red Onion in a fried donut with cranberry jalapeno jam

Donut Pudding with Sweet Rum Sauce

Beginning as a simple, silver Airstream Trailer on South Lamar serving decidedly decadent donuts and subsequently growing its legend to a full-service brick-and-mortar…with a helluva lot of wood décor…Gourdough’s Public House is exactly the sort of thing I expected of the Austin food scene; a trendy, hip, kitsch, and stylish spot with enough substance to back it up. Part ‘sport’ with college hoops on the screen, part ‘brewpub’ with German drinking tunes piped overhead, but nearly 100% donut with a menu of burgers, apps, sandwiches, and even dishes like chicken n’ dumplings featuring Gourdough’s dough it was on the total of one ‘brunch special,’ one sandwich, a side, plus dessert that I eventually settled and save for ignoring my request for separate courses (and my empty water glass) everything was exactly as expected – golden-fried, overindulgent, and delicious. Beginning with creamed corn slightly sweeter than the usual and moving next to the surprisingly bright and light Monte Cristo it was clear from the first bites that Gourdough’s doesn’t skimp on quality proteins or produce and moving on to matters more indulgent, let’s just say that the kitchen knows their way around a bag of sugar; the bread pudding a hot, dense square of day-olds combined by custard and topped with ‘sauce’ closer resembling boozy ‘curd’ and the Plucker harkening all the flavors of Chicken and Waffles on a toasty maple glazed donut, and all the better for it.

http://www.gourdoughspub.com/

Posted in Austin, Bread Pudding, Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Gourdough's, Gourdough's Pub, Gourdough's Public House, Pork, Texas, Vacation

March 1, 2014
1:00 PM
by: Uhockey

Sugar Mama’s Bakeshop, Austin TX

Sugar Mama’s Bakeshop

Champion Carrot Cake

Southern Belle – Red Velvet with Vanilla Cream Cheese

The Hemingway – Key Lime Curd filled Vanilla Cupcake topped with Key Lime Cream Cheese

Cinnamon Roll

Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Bar

Kicking off my first true vacation of 2014 with an 11:30pm flight cancellation and subsequent next-day rescheduling hassles I arrived in Austin fatigued and famished, the ideal condition for cure-by-cupcake, and a task to which Olivia O’Neal’s “Sugar Mama’s Bakeshop” would prove most capable. Located on trendy 1st Street and shabby-chic with charm to spare it was just after 1:00pm when I arrived and greeted by a small line guided by effusively friendly service hard decisions were made to tune of three cupcakes, one bar, and a cinnamon roll *correctly* touted by the clerk as one of the best ‘ever’ – a light, crunchy exterior giving way to supple layers rife with butter and cinnamon beneath thick yet subtle icing. Speaking next to the cupcakes, some enjoyed then and some for later, the beauty of Sugar Mama’s creations come from two things; superior ingredients and simple balance – each cake moist and richly flavored while frostings presented smooth and sweet yet restrained enough to let aromatics shine, a degree of balance further exemplified in the sticky pecan bar where milk chocolate and buttery shortbread proved a perfect foil to boozy caramelized pecans, particularly in the setting of a great espresso.

www.sugarmamasbakeshop.com

Posted in Austin, cupcakes, Dessert, Food, Sugar Mama's Bakeshop, Texas, Vacation

February 22, 2014
6:29 PM
by: Uhockey

Gimme Some Sugar, Henderson NV

Gimme Some Sugar

Salty Caramel Banana Cupcake

Peanut Butter Blondie

Snickerdoodle

Birthday Cake Macaron – Rainbow Sprinkles, Vanilla Buttercream

Mocha Madness Macaron – Gianduja Crisp, Coffee Buttercream, Coffee Ganache

Snickers Macaron – Chewy Peanut-Caramel and Chocolate Ganache dipped in Chocolate and Peanuts

Fig and Goat Cheese Macaron – Honey Sweetened Goat Cheese and Mission Fig Jam

Located just off the 215 in Henderson and receiving nearly universal praise from palates I trust “Gimme Some Sugar” from Jean Philippe protégé Kristen LoVullo had long been on my ‘to visit list,’ and thus when nothing in particular struck my fancy for dinner on Saturday I did the only thing a healthy, responsible adult would do – ate dessert for dinner while watching House of Cards and drinking home Siphon Brewed Ethiopian Chelelektu from Heart. Without a doubt a ‘cute’ shop with friendly service provided by a young lady named Brenda it was just after 7:00pm when I walked into the small store and with a short line fronted by a woman and her daughter planning a ‘Sweet 16’ party I spent some time perusing the items and chatting with other customers, seemingly each with a different favorite amongst the store’s nearly twenty options. Featuring plated desserts, custom cakes, jars, cookies, and other take-home treats it was with an eye on variety that I ordered when I approached the front of the line and self-selecting a few favorites along with two selections confirmed by Brenda to be as good as the crowd had suggested I made my way to the door immediately indulging in a buttery cinnamon-laced snickerdoodle with crispy edges and a soft center, the first of a half dozen +1 items tallying $25 after tax and tip. Showing some restrained and retaining the rest of my purchase for the twenty-seven minute drive home it was with coffee in hand that I continued my tasting first with a bananas-foster-esque cupcake that was plenty moist but somewhat marred by overly sweet frosting but moving on to the dense peanut butter blondie things improved substantially, the dense square loaded with rich chocolate tones and roasted organic peanut butter, a classic combo only improved after a minute on a warm skillet. Moving finally to what has seemingly become LoVullo’s ‘signature’ item, it was with a quartet of macarons that I rounded out my evening and with each palm-sized cookie featuring a characteristic crackle over rich flavors, the texture of the crmb was actually far more dense than the Parisian classic – a moist cake-like consistency akin to the American whoopie pie and although perhaps not ‘traditional,’ entirely delicious – both the dense chocolate dipped Snickers and rich, savory Fig and Goat Cheese “Whooparons” undoubtedly justifying the nearly hour-long round trip…though if they ever decide to expand I definitely see a market for a second shop in ever trendy Summerlin.

http://www.gimmesomesugarlv.com/

Posted in Coffee, cupcakes, Dessert, Food, Gimme Some Sugar, Henderson, Las Vegas, Macaroon, Nevada

February 22, 2014
3:28 PM
by: Uhockey

Manan Bakery, Las Vegas NV

Manan Bakery

Red Velvet Cupcake

Pistachio and Almond Macaron

Crispy Napoleon

Baklava

Dream Cake – Walnut, Graham, Pastry Cream

Bird Milk Roll – Condensed Milk, Chocolate, Yellow Cake

Described as an Armenian bakery by the lovely woman behind the counter, an encyclopedic knowledge of the country’s baked goods along with those from Greece and Turkey, a Saturday afternoon visit at Manan Bakery would prove to be a rarity for me – a case of baked goods with more mystery than familiarity, and a delicious bit of education served in seven courses for a mere $14 after tax and a tip for such pleasant and patient service as I inquired about the origin, concept, and constituents of no less than a dozen items. Playing on instincts and personal tastes but more than happy to allow the clerk to guide my hand it was with a few “standards” that I began and with the cupcake moist and dense beneath light buttercream while the baklava arrived crisp and intensely sweet the ‘familiar’ products would only get better from there, the macarons my pick for most Parisian-authentic in the city as a crisp bite gave way to a light crumb and filling that was ever slightly too thick, but nicely flavored and richly textured like that of Laduree at nearly half the price. Moving on to more novel options, it was with personal interest and love for mille feuille that I ordered Manan’s “crispy version” and with crisp layers divided by light cream before being rolled in fluffy icing and crunchy coconut-tinged flakes the Napoleon was not a bit soggy, just light, lovely, and perhaps the best non-traditional version I’ve experienced to date; an impetus for a later return to check out the ‘standard’ version which I’d venture to be equally delicious, particularly with seasonal fruits incorporated in the cream. Focusing last on the two “must try” items suggested by my server, it was with the bird milk roll that I began and although good I personally found the cake to be a bit dry, my tastes instead trending toward the appropriately named “dream cake” whose Napoleon like crunchy layers of graham were divided by a lacquer of thick, nutty milk-jam while buttery crumble and light pastry cream added just enough levity to reign in the intense sweetness – a perfect complement to a good cup of coffee later that evening and something I’ll absolutely return for soon, along with the Gata, Yojik, Manan Cake, Kartoshka, and Mikado…maybe the Smiling Cake, Nutella Napoleon, and Fruit Cookies as well.

http://www.weddingcakesbakery.com/

Posted in Breakfast, cupcakes, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Macaroon, Manan, Manan Bakery, Nevada