The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.
Bianco Bread and Olive Oil
Spiedini – Italian Fontina wrapped in La Quercia Organic Prosciutto
Margherita with Tomato Sauce, Fresh Mozzarella, Basil
Rosa with Red Onion, Parmesan, Rosemary, AZ Pistachios
If you’ve got dining partners you also order a Margherita…or pretty much anything on the menu.
This is pizza as an art-form and although there is some debate as to who is truly the “best” in the country there is no argument that Pizzeria Bianco is in the conversation.
The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.
Almond Croissant
Flourless Chocolate Cake
Cranberry White Chocolate Bread Pudding
Duck Tamale
Pork Mole Tamale
Margherita – Tomato, Parmesan, Mozzarella, Basil
Gran Marnier Souffle
Chocolate Souffle
Having now visited the Market thrice, the most recent time with my mother and aunt, and sampling a few items here and there I will whole heartedly encourage anyone to visit The Market for produce – equally good quality and less expensive than that at The Old Town Market, though certainly more limited – but given the fact that Vincent’s on Camelback is indeed a restaurant the real reason to go is the food, particularly the bargain $8 pizzas emerging from the 800 degree ‘Vincent Van-Go” oven bubbly and crisp and the $5 souffles – without a doubt the best I’ve found in the Valley. Equally impressive, a long list of Mexican-influenced food proved to be high quality and well-priced – the pork mole smoky and aromatic while the duck was gamey and tender with bits of cracklins’ tucked in for texture. Falling on the other end of the spectrum, I’d urge everyone to pass on the dreadful miniature almond croissant, limp and cool to the touch for $2.50, as well as the flavorless and doughy $4 bread pudding and instead order a crepe – or walk down a few feet and sample the flourless chocolate cake for free…or better yet, walk to the back of the market and buy some sweets from Tammie Coe.
Honestly though, if someone can name a place else where one can order a really good duck tamale appetizer, a piping hot Neapolitan Pizza main course, and a pair of fluffy soufflés at 9:00am while perusing fresh local produce and artisan goods please let me know. Add in the fact that amongst the local artisans are Tammie Coe pastries and frequently local wine makers sampling out their wares in the warm Arizona sun and I’d be hard pressed to name a more unique experience in the greater Phoenix area – at least from October until May when all the snowbirds leave and the heat index is over one-hundred degrees by the time the market would normally open.
The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.
Five Star Frogs by Jean-Luc Labat Almond Croissant
Tammie Coe
Snickerdoodle
Chocolate Pumpkin Muffin
Maple Bacon Scone
Ooey Gooey, Red Velvet, Dark Cocoa Caramel Ooey Gooey, Carrot Cake
Blackberry Bran Muffin
Portobello Tart
Cinnamon Roll
Plum Streusel Brioche
Almond Butter Pastry
Tammie Coe Butterscotch Crumb Bun
MJ Flourless Chocolate cookie
Tammie Coe “Betters” Cookie
Tammie Coe Blueberry Coconut Tart
Due to the Bowl Game in Tempe that evening and a desire to see various parts of the city while snacking along the way 12/29 was largely unstructured – a few restaurants for small bites, a pair markets, and two bakeries would be interspersed with sports, a tea garden, cactus shopping, and even a trip to Ikea; to say the least we got around and the first stop of the day was at Scottsdale’s Saturday Old Town Farmers’ Market where a bit of shopping (if you’ve not been, do yourself a favor and go purchase some compound honey butter from “Nourish”), a dense butter cake from “Classic Cakes,” and a crisp-gives-way-to-yawning-caverns-of-butter-and-light-frangipane Almond Croissant from “Five Star Frogs” bled over to an admittedly over the top tasting of pastries from local baking legend Tammie Coe that started in Old Town and extended on to the Camelback market…and later to her store on Roosevelt.
Trained from a young age, first by family and later formally, and known by both those who are interested in the culinary arts and those who simply have money to spend on a beautiful wedding or birthday cake I first experienced Tammie’s pastry during my interview trip to Phoenix when her goods were still on display at La Grande Orange and as good as her oft raved cupcakes (which I’m told are comparable in texture and flavor to her famous designer cakes) are it is three of her less ‘famous’ items that make her pastry, in my opinion, ‘destination worthy’ – the Streusel Brioche a sort of portable French Toast hand Pie with a custard center and bruleed top, the Almond Butter Pastry a dense baton coated thick with confectioners’ sugar and a texture somewhere between a buttermilk biscuit and a croissant, an finally the incomparable Crumb Bun whose swirls of sugar shellacked pastry peel away like that of a cinnamon roll with a texture akin to a Kouign Amann only to reveal pockets of rich butterscotch streusel…
…and yeah, those ooey gooey cupcakes aren’t too shabby either – a perfect cake:frosting ratio that, although very sweet at first, gradually reveals the tang of the cream cheese leading to balance – and for those who’d prefer something less sweet I’ll also vouch for the impressively moist muffins or the truly inspired tart; a sort of Italian style macaroon meets blueberry muffin that, much like the rest of Tammie Coe’s repertoire, is quite unlike much of what the majority of United States bakeries out there are serving at a similar or (in the case of New York or The Bay Area) higher price point – Phoenix is lucky to have her.
The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.
After a pre-meal snack at the now-shuttered Lee’s Cream Liqueur, a nice enough place whose ice cream was decent but poorly marketed in a high rent area (I contest that she could make a killing setting up shop in Portland or Brooklyn) my mother, aunt, and I made our way to local darling – and soon to be relocated – FnB. Knowing Charleen Badman’s skills with meats, and more so local produce, I figured that giving the restaurant a second look with family in tow would not only be more fun, but also allow me to sample more of the ever-evolving menu and on both counts I was correct, though unlike my first visit not everything wowed.
Perhaps a fault of the season, or perhaps secondary to the pending move and a jammed-packed house my second trip to FnB (and third meal cooked by Badman, including the Fried Chicken Face-off at noca,) everything at the restaurant just seemed slightly ‘off’ that night – servers abrupt, pacing off, and the price/quality/quantity ratio all skewed to the left while the sunchoke dish was nearly flavorless and the falafel too dense, served luke-warm, and the majority returned to the kitchen without comment (from our table or the servers.) Additionally underwhelming considering the $14 price tag was the petite portion of a relatively common cheese – though the accoutrements were all exemplary.
Moving on to what worked – that can be more or less summed up by the rest of the plates; from the creamy hard boiled duck eggs topped with briny olives to the famous leeks and riblets, on to the best Brussels sprouts I’ve ever encountered and some truly inspired desserts – the persimmon cake particularly with a carrot-cake texture that fused brilliantly with the intense ice cream from Sweet Republic. More relaxed than my first visit, but at the same time also with less “wow” moments I still contest that although there are plenty of things that FnB does very well it is no more than a “local” restaurant and a far cry from what many have designated it; as “The Best in Arizona.”
The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.
Raspberry Lavender Wine Cooler and Grapefruit Ginger Wine Cooler
Corn coins with Fennel, Herbs, Pecorino
Beets with Pears and Pecorino
Polenta with Romesco
Burrata with Olive Oil, Sea Salt, Crostini
Margherita with House Mozzarella, Roasted Tomato, Basil, Olive Oil – Half Artichoke Hearts
Casanova with Prosciutto, Dates, Ricotta, Arugula, Pecorino
Bombolini with Chocolate Dip
From the team behind Postino featuring crusts crafted by local bread legend MJ Coe Federal Pizza seemed like a great choice for lunch after visiting the Desert Botanical Gardens and with the new restaurant clearly fresh on the minds of locals I was not surprised by the proposed thirty minute wait on our arrival; what I was surprised by, however, was how poorly the restaurant flowed after we were finally seated nearly an hour later on the outdoor patio – even taking into account ‘growing pains’ the service needed work, our waiter John forgetting about us (and part of our order) leaving us with empty water glasses more than once while sitting in the sun and a nearly forty minute gap between appetizers and pizzas.
Subpar service aside, once the food began to arrive at Federal we were met with a somewhat mixed bag as the appetizers, including the oft raved ‘corn coins’ and a bright, bold, and balanced salad of various beets proved far superior to the pies – particularly the doughy, limp, and undercooked Margherita. Faring better, both in terms of ingredients and texture, I will admit that the Casanova was a good pizza with great chew and top quality ingredients, but for two pizzas on the exact same day to be so wildly inconsistent certainly gives me pause when considering a recommendation of Federal Pizza, let alone a return visit…not in a city where far better pizza can be found in abundance.
A nice space for drinks, appetizers, and even desserts perhaps I’ll give Federal Pizza a second chance at some point, but with Pizzeria Bianco, ‘Pomo, The Parlor, and La Grande Orange all turning out a superior product there is no chance I’d wait in line to do so.
The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.
Pumpkin Spice Muffins
Banana Nut Bread
Coffee
Hot Cocoa
Banana Nut Cakes – Bananas, Pecans, Maple
Jalapeno Pecan Cakes – Jalapenos, Pecans, Jalapeno Pecan Pan Syrup
Bananas Foster French Toast – Bananas, Pecans, Spicebox Whisky Sauce
Bacon
Prosciutto Cotto
Not particularly easy to find, especially with a GPS that leads you anywhere but the front door, Orange Table is a breakfast spot worth looking for in Scottsdale. Featuring clean lines and an upscale design with light music playing overhead along with service far more pleasant than other hip breakfast joints in the neighborhood, in our case from a young man named Andrew, the restaurant plays all the right notes of similar places in other big cities and one ups the competition with a menu that is familiar but also happy to take some chances.
Beginning first with beverages and baked goods while our primary plates were readied a wide variety of coffees and espresso drinks were prepared and (in the case of the coffee) refilled copiously while the signature Hot Cocoa was rich and thick – almost a drinking chocolate as much as a cocoa and rich enough that my aunt couldn’t finish it on her own. Speaking to the baked goods, while the banana bread could have stood for a few less minutes in the oven the pumpkin spice muffin was dense and moist, hovering somewhere between pumpkin pie and pudding cake as opposed to a muffin or quick bread.
Moving on to the plates – in our case two orders of pancakes and one of French Toast – it is difficult to say which dish was the best of the group as all three were excellent, but given my predilection for custard French toast as opposed to more bready versions like that at Orange Table I’d have to lean towards the pancakes, no matter how impressive that whisky sauce was, and with that in mind I’ll simply say that unless you are really sensitive to spice the Jalapeno Pecan Cakes are a signature dish worthy of signature status; the cakes toothsome and light with the flavors intense enough to make you sweat but not so hot as to make it unpleasant – particularly when balanced out with the buttery nuts and a side of tender griddled prosciutto.
The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.
Noca Royale – Prosecco, Compari, Lime Cordial
PB&J – Peanut Buffalo Trace, Raspberry, Lemon
Bread
Arancini
Potato Croquette
Funghi Schiacciate – Alba brown and white beech mushrooms, Parmigiano, Mozzarella, Oregano, EVOO
While my first meal at noca was amongst the best I’ve had in Phoenix my second was unfortunately the disappointing Fried Chicken Face-Off with FnB – a meal that I assumed was an aberration, but one that did not exactly send me running back to either restaurant until my mother and aunt came to town and we decided to visit both spaces on sequential nights…the first a return to noca that proved my speculation correct in providing another meal as good as the first on a crowded Thursday night with the kitchen firing on all cylinders from free gifts of Arancini and Potato Croquettes through the new Pizza/Schiacciate program all the way to Tracy Dempsey’s desserts.
Having enjoyed Italian the night before at Bianco’s Italian Restaurant but well aware of Chef Claudio’s skills with pasta and Eliot Wexler’s strong dedication to sourcing top quality pig and lamb our selections focused heavily on the night’s more hearty and rustic dishes and, as anticipated, our reward was plate after plate of truly excellent cuisine – the Creste and Short Ribs particularly balanced and immaculately prepared while the delicate ravioli and gamey lamb, both delicious, touched on entirely opposite ends of the spectrum – the former silky and subtle while the later was amongst the most flavorful lamb dishes I’ve ever encountered.
Moving from savory to sweet, while I cannot say I’m happy to see yet another restaurant in the area relying on outside sources for their desserts, it goes without saying that Tracy is extremely talented and her range is amongst the best in the business, the dense chocolate cake and light, silky semifreddo equally impressive while the beignets stole the show – each donut light and entirely greaseless while the caramel and key lime cream both warranted a finger to wipe the plate clean.
The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.
Strawberry Aguas frescas naturals
Arnold Palmer
Del Rey – Ham, melted cheese, pork sirloin, breaded beef, sausage, chorizo, eggs, tomato, onions, jalapeño and avocado
Cubana – Ham, melted cheese, pork sirloin, tomato, onions, and avocado
Pierna – Pork sirloin with melted cheese, tomato, onions, and avocado
Chocoflan
Trying to get my family to visit divey ethic restaurants with me is generally difficult and yet when I suggested Los Reyes De La Torta they seemed agreeable; perhaps an effect of learning to trust me, perhaps due to the online menu, or perhaps seeing a resemblance to Cemitas Puebla in Chicago and arriving at the restaurant early in the lunch hour to find the place more than half full it would not be long before we were seated…in the small side room near the bar…with the only other Gringos in the restaurant…clearly segregated from the Spanish speaking clientele populating the larger front dining area. At first a bit put off by this obvious isolation but quickly greeted by a pleasant young woman who proved both friendly and efficient we decided to stay, outcast or not, and what followed was actually a very impressive lunch at a bargain basement price.
Once (unbeknownst to us) featured on “Man vs. Food” it became obvious soon on opening the menu which items were considered signatures and with myself opting for the Del Rey while my mother and aunt went with similar, less gaudy options, plus a pair of icy mixed drinks similar in texture to the Slush-Puppies of my youth but far more delicious; the Arnold Palmer especially excellent with light bitter and a lot of sour without being overly sweet.
Moving on to the food, with each sandwich served on a fluffy and yeasty bolillo roll stuffed with flavorful meat and top quality produce, I can honestly say that every single bite of the Del Ray exceeded my expectations while both my mother and aunt seemed happy with their selections, as well. Generally not one to order a sandwich as I find them monotonous after a couple of bites the Del Ray succeeded where so many others failed because each bite was slightly different from the last, some smoky, some spicy, some saline, and others creamy and rife with fresh avocado. Large, easily enough to share, and certainly not for the faint of heart this is definitely the sort of dish that could have flopped and become nothing but a gluttonous mess but in reality, despite all the ingredients, never once did something seem unnecessary or overwhelming to the other ingredients…and as much as restraint probably would have been wise I enjoyed every last bite, a fact that *almost* made me glad they were sold out of their signature King Cake; though the dense “Chocoflan” of moist chocolate pudding cake meets smooth, creamy flan was quite rich itself.
With the Del Rey ringing in at a mere $9.50 I find it hard to believe that there is any place in the city offering more interesting Mexican food at a better value, though if there is I need to seek it out…right after I find some dining pals to head back to Los Reyes for Pambasos and Huaraches and some King Cake.
The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.
Coffee Cake Muffin
Blueberry Muffin
Oatmeal Cake Muffin
Pecan Pie Square
Apple Scone
Sinfully Good Cookie
Banana Bread Pudding with Caramel Sauce
Having heard rumors of Bertha’s serving the best bread pudding in The Valley from more than one trusted source I took the opportunity after a long morning run to visit the small shop on Indian School Road while my family was in town and selecting widely from their freshly baked early morning selection I’m happy to say that although I personally think Cornish Pasty Company, Del Frisco’s, and Vovomeena all make a better bread pudding the lady’s at Bertha’s still turn out a pretty great rendition of the dish along with one of the best muffins and cookies I’ve had in Arizona.
Ordering eight items but only receiving seven (after calling them they admitted forgetting to pack up the sweet and salty brownie – something I still need to return for as they reportedly have my name written down somewhere) only the apple scone proved less than excellent as it was simply too dry, but more than making up for this was the dense oatmeal cake muffin – something like a no-bake oatmeal bar meets oatmeal cookie meets German chocolate cake – and the “Sinfully Good Cookie” that matched dark chocolate with sea salt, brown butter, and Captain Crunch to form something sweet and salty, crunchy and chewy, and quite large for only $1.95. A cute shop, though the exterior signage could certainly use work, it isn’t quite La Grande Orange, Scratch, or Essence but Bertha’s is still very good and with a few truly standout items I certainly need to make a return visit to further investigate.
The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.
Crostini with Garlic Goat’s milk Butter
Pasta e Fagioli – Native Seed Search Beans, House Made Orchiette
Cheese Plate with candied nuts, fig orange marmalade, Pear– Red Barn Cheddar, Gorgonzola, ‘Goat’ Cheese
AZ Sonoran White Wheat Crespelle with Escarole, Homemade Ricotta, Tomato Sauce
Faella Spaghetti with Bianco Dinapoli Tomato, Basil
Crispy Potato Gnocchi with Brown Butter, Sage, Parmesean Reggiano
Apple Crostata with Crema
Rice Pudding with Orange Fig Marmalade
Having since rebranded the restaurant to Trattoria Bianco after installing a stone oven to make his legendary pies the first meal I enjoyed with my family after driving back from Las Vegas was at Italian Restaurant. Having already visited the Pizzeria, Pane, and Italian Restaurant for lunch myself this was my first dinner at a Bianco restaurant and arriving to find the space bustling we opted to sit outdoors in order to avoid the noise; a big mistake that instead led to both captain and a server named Adam largely ignoring us throughout the evening as water went unfilled, dishes were dropped off without description, ingredient questions required further investigation with the kitchen, and epic delays occurred between each course, plate pickup, and particularly drop-off and collection of desserts along with the check.
Moving past service issues, the food was every bit as good as the first visit, the housemade pastas and bread clearly a strong point while fresh local produce shined in a salad with bright, bold vinaigrette and beets sweeter than almost any I’d previously encountered. Unfortunately replacing my all-time favorite corn and pancetta gnocchi with a slightly more seasonal version featuring brown butter and sage the dumplings themselves once again melted in the mouth while the crespelle, a crepe stuffed to bursting with creamy cheese and bitter escarole, topped with Bianco’s signature sauce was rustic, simple, and perfect – just the way Italian food should be and just the way Chris and his team make it at each of their restaurants.
The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.
Bouchon Bistro
Coffee
Epi with Peach Jelly
Lemon and dried Blueberry Scone
Cinnamon Oatmeal with Caramelized Apples and Streusel
Foie Gras Terrine 4oz with Baguette
Cinnamon Donuts with Nutella and Peach Jam
Cranberry Toast and Jam
White Chocolate Bouchons with Gingerbread Tuille and Peppermint Ice Cream
Financier
Bouchon Bakery
Canele
Pumpkin Muffin
Kouign Amann
Cinnamon Roll
Coffee Cake
Reindeer TKO, Linzer Tree, Speculoos Star
…as a small family we do not have many traditions, but if I were to start one I’d say Christmas breakfast at Bouchon Bistro in Las Vegas would be a good choice. 2011, 2012…time to start looking into flights for 2013.
The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.
Le Coeur Rouge – Pomegranate Juice, Muddled Orange and Cherry, Sprite
Le Maize – Corn Veloute, Honey and Ginger Crouton, Smoked Duck, Milk Marshmallow
Bread Service: Mini Baguette, Yeast Bun, Mini Croissant, Gruyere Brioche, Potato Bread, Comte Baguette, Rustic Loaf, Saffron Focaccia, Milk Bread, Bacon with Whole Grain Mustard, Traditional Baguette, Olive Baguette, Basil Focaccia, Brioche with Roasted Sea Salt, French Butter with Sea Salt and Olive Oil
Le Foie Gras – Carpaccio of Foie Gras and Potatoes Covered with Black Truffle Shavings
Le Kabocha – Kabocha Pumpkin Veloute with Foie Gras, Ginger Foam, Toasted Seeds
Les Spaghettis – Homemade Spaghetti Topped with Soft Boiled Egg, Urchin, Caviar
La Pintade Fermiere – French Hen with Roasted Foie Gras, Confit Potatoes au Jus
Cheese Course with Raisin roll, Wildflower honey; Haystack Peak, Cremont, 2 Year Comte, Tomme de Brebis, Pont l’eveque
Le Ruby – Raspberry Dome on Mascarpone Cream, Cranberries, Cranberry Coulis, Japanese Yogurt
Le Chocolat – Apple Compote infused with Hibiscus, topped with Chocolate Tuille, Dark Chocolate Sorbet, Gold Leaf
Petit Fours – Pineapple Financier, Vanilla Macaron, Passionfruit Marshmallow, Apple Cupcake with Caramel Icing, Religeuse, Pear Gelee, Almond Cluster, Cinnamon Meringue, Chocolate Caramels, Hazelnut/Rum/Banana/Chinese Five Spice Milk Chocolate, Yuzu/Pistachio/Coffee/Passionfruit Dark Chocolate, Coffee Opera Cake, Mango Tarte, Coffee Éclair, Pineapple Tart, Nougat, Blueberry White Chocolate, Citrus Tuille, Hazelnut Bon-Bon, Lemon Tartelette, Dark Chocolate Macaron, Orange Lollipop, Guava Pate a Fruit, Canale, Mini Chocolate Hazelnut Tart, Crème Brulee, Panna Cotta
Take home gift – Raspberry and Pistachio Pound Cake
…while some may believe that one cannot buy class, in Las Vegas I’m rather certain that one can buy a close semblance to anything, a fact evidenced by the t-shirt and track suit clad group sitting a few tables down from me as the clock turned to Christmas 2012 while I enjoyed a complimentary piece of Orange Ice cream cake that pastry chef Kamel Guechida had crafted for the questionably clad but clearly affluent Europeans who were celebrating a birthday in addition to the holidays at Vegas’ most glitzy restaurant. Having already dined at Joel Robuchon twice myself this was not the first time I’d seen such generosity from the kitchen of “The Chef of the Century” and much like my previous visits the meal was an exercise in refinement; the room, the food, and the service all well-manicured, highly polished, and lavish.
Taking a 9:00pm reservation and arriving early only to be identified by name as the doors swung open on my approach I was subsequently seated at the same table I’d dined at during my first visit and greeted by a familiar service team including the same dining room manager and server as my prior visit much of what would follow was familiar; the plethoric bread cart and equally impressive cheese course followed by a dessert trolley with nearly three dozen options plus the signature pound cake, though this time smaller than prior. Deferring on coffee I was additionally treated to a hand clipped tea and infusions cart and a $10 flat charge brought no less than three bottles of Evian – no doubt the cost of admission warrants these things as well as the impressive “Ruby” palate cleanser and “Maize” amuse – gifts that would constitute proper courses at many restaurants.
Moving on to what was ordered I once again opted to order from the prix fixe as opposed to the larger grand tasting and making a special request for the (menu price $300 if ordered ALC) Pintade Fermiere my only small complaint regarding the entire evening was that Chef Le Tohic felt need to visit my table before the hen’s preparation to suggest I’d be better off only ordering half the bird as I’d have gladly (and greedily,) eaten more of the crispy skin and supple flesh sandwiched around thick, buttery, foie gras…though I guess saving the $60 supplement charge was a benefit.
Truffles, foie gras, uni, foie gras, caviar, and more foie gras plus aged comte, spell-binding desserts, and a room and service beyond reproach I can think of much worse ways to celebrate Christmas Eve than with Joel Robuchon’s team at the MGM and although I personally would never do so in a T-shirt there is something refreshing about the fact that in a city where there are so many bad high-stakes bets this is a place where anyone willing and able to spend the money is virtually guaranteed an excellent return.
The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.
Tod Mun Plar – Deep Fried Fish Cake with Curry Paste, Cucumber Salad, Chopped Peanut
Koong Sarong – Marinated Prawn wrapped in Bacon and Wonton wraps, deep fried, sweet and sour
Nam Kao Tod – Crispy Rice with Sour Sausage, Green Onion, Fresh Chili, Ginger, Peanuts, Lime Juice
Crispy Duck on Drunken Noodle with Fresh Chili and Thai Basil
Beef Balls Noodle Soup with small rice noodles
Hoh Mok Seafood – Steamed with egg, sliced cabbage, coconut milk, curry sauce, cooked in tinfoil with its own juices
Fried mussel omelet on top of sautéed bean sprout, green onion, spicy sweet sauce
Often traveling and dining solo or with persons not so adventurous I’m always glad when a friend or even a stranger is interested in dining somewhere outside my typical focus and on Christmas Eve, with a number of restaurants closed even in Las Vegas, I was fortunate to have an acquaintance well established in the food industry invite me to dine with he and his girlfriend at Lotus of Siam. Surely the most ‘famous’ restaurant in Las Vegas and debatably the most well-known place for Thai in the United States the nondescript strip-mall location on Sahara Ave had always been on my “to visit” list and although my heat tolerance is still quite novice what I found at LoS was well within my comfort zone and aside from the nearly ninety minute wait for a seat and perfunctory service all of it was really quite delicious.
Fortunate to visit on a day when Chef Saipin was in the kitchen and the crowd was largely local our table of three tried as best we could to sample a wide but manageable amount of food from various areas of the immense menu and deferring once or twice to our server, Pha, we requested items arrive in a couple of courses as opposed to all at once; a request honored leading to seven plates in three rounds, each plate nicely presented, piping hot, and all but the Beef Ball soup full of flavor.
Beginning first with savory fish cakes aromatic and spicy, prawns snappy and fresh with dipping sauce far sweeter than sour, and crispy rice with citrus proving an admirable foil to funky sausage the meal began with a bang only to falter slightly in the second round where the seafood shined while the aforementioned soup fell flat and the duck, advertised as crispy, was actually rather limp but quite delicious as the garlicky noodles, laden with fish sauce, provided needed balance to the substantial heat. Last, largely because the kitchen forgot we ordered it until we inquired, but certainly not least – the Mussel Omelet arrived resembling a savory funnel cake – a slight sweetness beneath the brine and along with the Nam Kao Tod and Hoh Mok evidence to me that any subsequent trip to Lotus of Siam would see me focus even more strongly on seafood – particularly the snapper and catfish – while also taking a look at the Northern Thai menu.
The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.
Trader Joes Organic Coffee
Chocolate Chip Banana Bread
French Toast with Cocoa drizzle, syrup, bananas
Chocolate Waffle with Bananas, Chocolate Chips, Syrup
Apple Cinnamon Bread Pudding in Cider Sauce
I am neither vegan nor vegetarian and the concept of tofu made into meat-like-product generally disgusts me, but with that said I do harbor a soft spot for high quality baked goods and breakfasts – vegan, veg, or otherwise – and perhaps as a result of limited ingredients and a need to innovate or perhaps simply because they use a lot of sugar, great produce, and top notch chocolate and maple syrup my experience over the course of much time and many cities has shown me that restaurants eschewing meats (and sometimes even butter and eggs) tend to produce some really excellent sweets; a fact that led me to Pura Vida for breakfast on Christmas Eve 2012.
Small, well off the strip, and homey/shabby in a pleasant way that is entirely anti-Vegas Chef Mayra’s Pura Vida Bakery and Bystro is billed as “Las Vegas’ First & Only 100% Cruelty Free Restaurant!” and with only one server plus Mayra herself running the small space it is certainly not a place to go for a quick bite as wait times for one of the twenty or so seats can top an hour and each dish can take up to an hour to emerge from the kitchen but those with patience (or time to spare) will certainly be rewarded with what I personally consider the best Vegan food I’ve ever tasted – and perhaps the best breakfast in Las Vegas outside of Bouchon.
Setting aside the anti-meat propaganda (an interesting way to spend your wait time) and focusing solely on the food and service every aspect of my nearly ninety minutes at Pura Vida was excellent – an appetizer of dense banana bread that was easily 50% banana coming first followed by three dishes emerging from the kitchen as they were prepared; the French Toast a bit less custardy than I generally prefer but light and not overly sweet while the chocolate waffle took an entirely different route by arriving entirely over the top; a crispy chocolate disc topped with dark chocolate, perfect bananas, and resting in a pool of maple syrup – a must order, but perhaps something best shared as it ranks amongst the most decadent breakfast dishes I’ve ever tasted.
Truly impressive and not only worth the reservation (or wait time) but also the hassle of getting there from The Strip Pura Vida is a restaurant that stands up for what it believes in and does those things very well. While Veganism may not be a lifestyle for everyone I’m confident to say that Mayra could satisfy any palate if given the chance while the small staff does everything they can for each guest, even going so far as to plate my bread pudding because she noticed I was taking pictures before boxing it up to go, the dense cinnamon bread soaked through with spicy cider and skin-on apple compote proving a perfect dessert after Lotus of Siam that afternoon.
The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.
Rebujito – Sherry Tonic Water and Orange Blossom Espuma
Idiazabal Macaron
Seta Surprise – Two textures of wild Chanterelle
Nitro Almond Cup – Marcona almond purée and Almas Aria caviar – (cup and filling in 2 texture of almond)
Squash Merengue – White Truffle Shavings and Cream
Barquillo – Anchovy and Truffle
Almejas Al Natural – Clams spheriphication with clam liqueur
Bocato de Bacalao – Fresh Cod Jowl on Bread
Crispy Chicken Skin in Escabeche – Chicken Skin Base, two chicken oysters, thyme air and thyme powder
Cava Sangria – Spheriphication with bits of fruit and herb suspended within a carbonated sphere
Artichoke ‘puree’ with Truffle – Vanilla Sabayon, Lemon Puree, Pork demiglace, Artichoke Heart, White Truffle
Lobster with Citrus and Jasmine – Lobster Sauce, Jasmine Air, Citrus Garnish
Chickpea Stew with Iberico Ham – Tender “chickpeas” floated on a silky, rich jamón ibérico broth, dotted with chorizo oil, parsley oil and olive oil (chickpeas were actually puréed and spherified)
Turbot with Bone Marrow – Marrow Tots, Blue Mountain Coffee (Filet was actually sous-vide with the skin crisped a la plancha and placed back on the fish along with crispy fins and sauce of bone marrow)
Whole Lobe of Foie Gras baked in Salt – bitter chocolate, confit grapefruit, basil flowers, clementine sauce
Secreto of Iberico Pork with Truffle – white truffle pork jus
Torta Pascualete with Cotton Candy – cheese from Spain, hazelnut brown butter and compressed cotton candy
Flan – with oranges and ice (Creamsicle)
Pan Con Chocolate with Truffle – Saffron Espuma, Crystalized Bread, Frozen Chocolate Powder, Maldon Sea Salt, Shredded White Truffle, Olive Oil
Aroz Con Leche – Rice Pudding in a crispy sugar cone
25 Second Bizcocho – Almond Cake with Cream Filling and Saffron Chocolate – Milk Chocolate with Saffron and Maldon Sea Salt
Catalonian Porron with Lemon Beer
After the thinkfoodgroup stiffed me last minute on a minibar reservation I had every reason to boycott their restaurants for all time yet given the strong reviews of the restaurant-within-a-restaurant é by Jose Andres at Jaleo I simply could not resist the temptation…especially when I learned that Jose himself would be in town at Christmas when the restaurant was hosting a truffle-centric extended tasting for five days only. Pricey to be sure, part due to the luxury ingredients and part due to the location and exclusivity, this was one of those reservations that required a signed contract and pre-payment and the sort that came with great anticipation…it even came with a golden ticket just to get you in the door…and it was worth it.
Without a doubt one of my five best meals in 2012 the eve of Christmas Eve bled into the early hours of the 24th as I sat with one other man from Arizona and a family of six from the Carolinas as Andres and his team sent out twenty three courses of elegant, fun, and mostly delicious cuisine ranging from a meringue of squash that disappeared like a magic trick in the mouth flooding the palate with the intense perfume of truffles to a thick slice buttery foie gras rendered refreshing though the use of citrus juxtaposing dark chocolate.
Presented by a kitchen of four acting as both chefs and servers while the maître d made his way around the room pouring exotic wines (a $200+ pairing) for my dining partners and unlimited bottled water (a mere $ for myself service throughout the experience was truly exemplary – each dish with a story and inspiration described at length and timing impeccable. Surely adding to the meal were the strangers with whom I dined, the wine taking its toll and everyone joyful in the season, and no more so than when the kitchen passed around a porron before dessert – myself missing a few drops at the beginning but performing admirably while some did far better…and some FAR worse…as everyone laughed along.
Having enjoyed thinkfoodgroup’s food in the past but generally not the service é by Jose Andres turned out to be everything I’d hoped for; a truly memorable meal that warrants both the price and the praise – a seemingly rarer and rarer occurrence in fine dining, particularly in Las Vegas.
The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.
Crostini, Focaccia, White with Olive Oil and Balsamic
Grilled Filone with Duck Egg and Fonduta
Margherita with Bufala Mozzarella and Tomatoes
Pici with Braised Duck Sauce and Black Truffle
Tuscan Fries with Garlic and Parmigiano, 14oz Ribeye with Bernaise
Salted Caramel Budino with Pretzel Toffee
Despite a truly excellent meal at Scarpetta New York when Scott Conant was still in the kitchen in 2009 I’d never returned to the original location, nor the Los Angeles or Las Vegas outpost, largely because of similar menus plus an ever growing list of places to visit no matter where I travel and as such when my friend suggested he was going to get dinner before heading out for the evening on a night when I already had late night dining plans I took the opportunity to not only join him, but to suggest Chef Conant’s concept small plates restaurant D.O.C.G., conveniently located just a few feet away from my later meal at é by Jose Andres.
A unique space with indoor and ‘patio’ seating at the far end of restaurant row inside The Cosmopolitan we arrived just after the space opened at 6pm and opting to sit inside to watch the kitchen it would not be long before our server arrived with the nightly menu and a few specials, a list from which we certainly over-ordered but aside from the Vegas-y price tag not a single choice we would regret. A bustling restaurant, but not a particularly “loud” one despite filling to capacity before we made our exit service was every bit as professional as expected and with drinks readily refilled the kitchen moved efficiently sending out our selections in three courses with excellent timing as the meal kicked off with a bread basket not quite as lovely as the salumi bread at Scarpetta, but warm with a truly impressive Focaccia which I had to mindful to resist after the first slice.
Moving on to the proper plates, the first course arrived as a half order of thick, toothsome pici topped with a truffle-laden sauce of tomato and duck confit that was expectedly rustic and rich while its counterpart, the oft raved Filone with a poached duck egg sitting atop cheese fondue was equally rich but ever more refined, the silky mix of egg and cheese atop hot bread without a doubt the best dish of a meal full of good choices. Following the appetizers, a main course of steak with a side of fries was pronounced by my friend to be good, but not $62 good while the $22 Margherita featured top quality ingredients and great char, but failed to reach the highs of the pie at Due Forni which cost substantially less.
Unwilling/Unable to pass on dessert despite another full meal in just a couple of hours the early evening at D.O.C.G. ended with the house specialty Salted Caramel Budino and yes, without a doubt, this is a signature dessert worth the rave reviews as the dense pudding walks a fine line between too sweet and too salty with bits of toffee acting as a textural contrast; it would have been great with coffee and along with the filone is reason enough to pay D.O.C.G. a visit (even with the exorbitant on-strip markup)
The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.
Moochin Monkey Bread
Short Stack of Donuts with Raspberry, Chocolate, Caramel
Sugarfoots Dancing Chicken and Waffles with Wild Turkey American Honey maple syrup
Cinnamon Bun French Toast with Tableside Flambe Bananas Foster, Anglaise
Hot Mess with Waffle Fries, Brown Ale Chili, Spicy Cheese, Eggs, Crema, Bacon, Sausage, Jalapeno
Perhaps it should come as no surprise that the signature Las Vegas outpost of celebrity Chef Sammy D went belly up shortly after my December visit; it was loud both visually an aurally, could not/would not turn on any NFL game besides the Cowboys despite multiple TVs and title of First Food & BAR, and even by Sin City Standards the prices were high while the vibe/décor bordered on too-hip-for its-own-good…and yet at the same time I must admit that despite all these failings and the fact that service was more eye-candy than efficiency I kind of enjoyed my meal there.
Perhaps as a result of having spent the morning at Public House where my friend already acquired a good beer buzz or perhaps due to my guilty-pleasure soft spot for upscale comfort food and/or kitsch takes on American classics the best way I can describe First Food & Bar – both the experience and the cuisine – is “fun,” each dish a little more audacious than the last with large portions, tableside preparations, and excessive ingredients aplenty. Ranging from shockingly simple and delicious donuts to unique and elaborately presented French toast to the doughy and tedious Monkey Bread our sampling of sweet items ran the gamut and moving towards the savory – two options ordered by my friend – both the chicken and the waffle were as well prepared as any while the waffle fries…let’s just say the name says all you need to know, and one or two was definitely enough (though my friend claims otherwise, to which I say “drunk food.”)
Sporting the moto “Hard to find but easy to love” due to their obscure location in the shoppes at the Venetian I’m not sure I entirely agree with that sentiment, but I am glad I went – even if I probably would not have gone back even if they had remained open; a “once is enough” sort of place to be sure.
The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.
Fresh Doughnut Holes Fried to Order with Vanilla, Chocolate, Raspberry Sauce
French Toast Crème Brulee
In a city that never sleeps where absentee landlord chefs abound Michel Richard’s Central LV stands alone; a 24-Hour restaurant off the lobby of Caesar’s Palace where one can theoretically order an item off any part of the menu at any time of day – at least according to the undisclosed person who answers their e-mail – though if you happen to ask for a Mille-Feuille /Napoleon at 6:15am you’re certain to get a vacant look from one of the most lackadaisical and slow moving servers in all of Las Vegas followed by assertion that this dish is not on the breakfast menu.
Service, misinformation, and excessive pricing aside I will note that the two dishes I did receive after an inexplicable forty minute wait were actually quite good – the doughnut holes light and hot with each topping delicious, particularly when mixed, while the Crème Brulee French Toast was a textural masterpiece with caramelized bread sandwiching milky custard good enough to justify a ten dollar price tag, but certainly not a $17 one…even if I did save a few bucks in leaving a paltry tip for my server Alexander’s total of four visits to the table during my 55 minute stay (menu drop, order, plate drop, check drop.) Having visited both Richard’s fine dining Citronelle and original Central in Washington DC I can only imagine the service at Central LV is Harrah’s and not his doing; probably the pricing as well.
The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.
Smoked Sea Salt Sable / Duck Confit covered in Panko Bread Powder / Flax Cracker with Carrot Chantilly / Squid Ink Tartlet with Trout Roe and Foie Gras Custard / Roquefort Tartlet with Mustard seed and Mascarpone Cream / Tequila Pomegranate Gelee
French Baguette, Walnut Raisin Molasses Bread, Italian Buttermilk Bread, and Bordier Butter
Black Truffle – Pumpkin Cake with Salt Cod, Black Truffle, Gold and Red Beets, Spinach Veloute with Garlic
Hudson Valley Foie Gras – Poached Foie Gras with Horseradish Emulsion, Sauerkraut, Morteau Sausage / Glenmorangie Glazed Duck Foie Gras Terrine with Gingerbread Powder, Dates, and Hazelnut / Dundee-Pinky Condiment with Apple Ice Cream and Poquillo Pepper Compote
Four Story Hill Farm Poularde – Black Truffle Puree, Diced Artichoke, Fennel, Cuttlefish, and Dauphine Potatoes over Savoy Cabbage / Cold leg roulade with Ginger Salad and Lemon cream
La Grande Dessert – White Chocolate Glace with Lemon Gel, Lemon Confit, Crème Parfait, and Grappa Syrup / Grapefruit Marmalade with Pineapple and Red Pepper Confit, Pink Champagne Granite / Pear Liquor Cremeux with Anise Poached Pear, Coffee Soaked Biscuit Jaconde, Milk Chocolate / Chestnut Orange Gateaux with Clementine Syrup / Guanaja Chocolat Ganache with Caraibe Chocolate Ice Cream and Salty Caramel Tartlet / Passionfruit Syrup, Marron Glace, Pistache Diplomate
If one has never been to a Pierre Gagnaire restaurant, as my friend hadn’t, I think it is best to set the expectations appropriately. First of all, the room will be dramatic and the service will be exemplary. Second, there will be ingredients you have never heard of presented in manners you never imagined. Third, there will be a point in the meal where there are at least four plates resting in front of you and you’ll have no idea where to start. Fourth, chances are good that there will be at least one plate that leaves you scratching your head wondering “what were they thinking?” Last of all – the other ten to fifteen plates will not only be delicious, they’ll make you wonder “why didn’t anyone think of that before?”
Understanding that Twist is high risk and high reward in a city where a gamble is the very basis of the economy is part of the experience and while the reward may not come in the form of a financial windfall the cost of admission at the restaurant newly helmed by Ryuki Kawasaki comes with myriad rewards in the form of cuisine like no other in Sin City – a foie gras dish exploring both bitter and sweet, then bringing it to a peak with super-sweet ice cream only to follow-up with a firey finish being the most impressive example while a brandade dish marring salt and earth elegantly only to leave a sweet, vegetal note on the palate somewhat akin to pumpkin pie also wowed. To the other end – the true risk taker of the evening came with dessert as the nearly unpalatably bitter grapefruit, champagne, and pepper cocktail was served front and center completely overwhelming the palate only to be followed by five additional sweets stimulating the rest of the palate and completing the vision.
Certainly not a restaurant or meal for those happy to dine at a buffet in order to get back to the craps table Twist is a place to sit, think, enjoy the scenery and the service, and embrace the chef’s vision – it is like no other place in Vegas, and all-in it remains my favorite restaurant in the city.
The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.
Fallen Grape – Simi Cab, Fonseca Port, Averna, St. Germain, Served Warm with a Cinnamon Stick
Potted Farm Egg with Roasted Mushrooms, Ricotta Fondue, Crispy Serrano Ham, Grilled Bread
Foie Gras with Chestnut Stuffing, Spiced Cranberry Compote, Herb Salad
Coffee
Bread Pudding with Apple Confit, Hoegaarden Ice Cream, Buttered Pecans
Charcuterie – Pork Rillets and House Pate
…on Saturday we wanted a place to watch the college games and on Sunday the pro games; sure we could have entered one of the sports books and my buddy could have enjoyed a Miller Light or perhaps even a Molson, but why (aside from saving money) would anyone want to consider that when there is the lavish urban swagger and extensive beer list of Public House at The Venetian? Coupling the cask ales and copious imports with a kitchen that can actually execute some fairly complex upscale pub-grub plus servers that live up to Las Vegas standards (both in looks and in attention to detail in order to justify on-strip prices and a good tip) and a willingness to turn on any game…even the lowly Tampa Bay Buccaneers and I’d say Public House is definitely a spot worth hanging out, even two days in a row.
Starting in the lounge on Saturday where a scantily clad young woman named Krystian served up a number of imported lagers and decent knowledge of the province of each to my friend while providing me with the shockingly delicious recommendation of a warm wine-based cocktail to go with an ample slice of creamy duck liver served like Christmas dinner plus a creamy egg fondue that could have doubled as breakfast it really did not take much of an effort for my friend to get me to accompany him back to the pub on day two where we sat for nearly three hours as he ran through what seemed like an unthinkable amount of beers at the recommendation of a young bartender named Toshihir as I enjoyed house made pate and rillets followed by decent coffee, refilled copiously at no extra charge, and a truly inspired bread pudding as light as angel-food cake and paired with creamy apples, crunchy candied pecans, and ice cream that although hoppy on the finish opened up spicy and sweet.
…dare I say that if all bars were this good I’d probably find myself going out for ‘drinks’ (ie, food at a drinking establishment) more often.
for myself service throughout the experience was truly exemplary – each dish with a story and inspiration described at length and timing impeccable. Surely adding to the meal were the strangers with whom I dined, the wine taking its toll and everyone joyful in the season, and no more so than when the kitchen passed around a porron before dessert – myself missing a few drops at the beginning but performing admirably while some did far better…and some FAR worse…as everyone laughed along.
