Located off the lobby of the recently rebranded Delano, with a trendy wooden décor “inspired by desert shade’” and several styles of seating juxtaposing a small bar flanking a marble hearth, 3940 ups the ante in the world of casino coffee shops not only in terms of styling but also in offerings, a variety of overpriced artisan sandwiches served alongside an impressive lineup of pastries, lattes, juices, and teas.
Legalistically named and across the way from Franklin it was just after 3pm that I arrived at the brightly lit bar and with folks from an ongoing tech conference occupying several tables as well as the leather recliners in the corner a quick chat with friendly baristas yielded a double espresso over ice and a six-part sampling of the day’s pastries, the total just under twenty-seven dollars.
Noting that $5 for a double over ice is more-or-less the going price at every Strip-side Starbucks suffice it to say that the Grand Avenue Roasted shots from 3940 are a significant upgrade over the competition, and with similar praise lavished on a warm sticky bun that somehow maintains crunchy layers of lamination beneath a mountain of candied pecans and butter one only wishes the rest of the wares could have been so good, the cupcake far better to look at than to eat given the substantially sweet and paste-thick icing while each of the cookies, save for graham-cracker caramel studded ‘Smores, was almost brownie-dense and entirely one note.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: Offering better coffee than almost any coffee bar on the strip, along with several interesting lattes and fresh squeezed juices, but exceedingly expensive for sandwiches that look no more interesting than Panera it seems the best bet for a visit to 3940 is for beverages alone and although the sticky bun is quite excellent, an even better version can be had fresh to order from Della’s Kitchen just down the hall.
AVOID: Cupcake, Cookies in general – particularly the overly sweet chocolate chip.
TIP: Open 6a-4p daily, and check out the complimentary flavored water from the hotel lobby while viewing the exploding rock art just across from check-in.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Promoting a natural and organic approach to all of their products Layers Bakery is the sort of place anyone with a substantial sweet tooth should really want to like, but with a first visit to the flagship proving rather underwhelming it was almost a year later that a trip to the smaller storefront on Medical Center Street finally took place – the results equally unimpressive as a stripped down selection due to “lack of demand” yielded only one memorable item out of an order of five.
Perhaps one third the size of the original, tucked away next to the Hospital just off the 215, it was admittedly a trip to the nearby FedEx that took me to the smaller Layers and although service first chastised me for taking pictures, the young woman eventually lightened up and filled the order, all items wrapped in paper and placed in a pair of bags at a total of $17 as the rest of the staff stood in the kitchen without a single person to serve in the café.
Opting to take goods elsewhere to enjoy alongside coffee it was in the bakeless “Grizzle Nickel” bar that I first partook and although interestingly textured with graham, coconut, chocolate chips, and peanuts all competing for palate space the flavor was largely that of the bittersweet chocolate that dominated, a flavor I’d find far more subdued in a chocolate chip cookie that was quite decent, though nothing the average baker couldn’t make just as well at home.
More impressed by a molasses cookie that featured a far bolder spice profile than most restaurants or bakeries would be willing trot out while the coffee cake proved too dry in areas not in direct contact with the admittedly delicious apples, it was after more coffee that the refrigerated whoopie pie was explored but despite having allowed it about an hour to warm up the now room-temperature palm-sized disc still proved far too ‘cakey’ while the filling was pasty and thick, not smooth and creamy like several experienced in the past.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: Giving them credit for trying to do what is right it can only be said that Layers simply does not execute as well as other bakeries speckled across the valley and with none of their cakes offered at this location while only one is cut daily at the Henderson flagship I simply cannot justify recommending them to anyone, there are simply better options to be had.
RECOMMENDED: Molasses Cookie.
AVOID: Whoopie Pie. Also, the Coffee Cake, though the sour cherry version was much better at the Henderson location, so perhaps this one…or that…was an anomaly.
TIP: Closed on Sunday and Monday, open 8a-3p Tues-Friday, 9a-2p Saturday.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
BITE’S ULTIMATE PANCAKES – Fresh egg surrounded by our buttermilk pancake batter filled with bacon and sausage pieces
MONTE CRISTO FRENCH TOAST – Turkey, ham fried egg & Swiss cheese
FUNFETTI PANCAKES – Cake batter with rainbow sprinkles and topped with yogurt (…or not, bro)
CHOCOLATE MOCHA WAFFLE – Whipped cream and chocolate fudge
MINT CHOCOLATE CHIP PANCAKE – Minty green pancake batter, loaded with chocolate chips and topped with whipped cream and chocolate fudge
BANANA NUT FRENCH TOAST – Homemade banana nut bread dipped into our French toast egg batter, grilled and topped with sliced bananas
Replacing the shuttered Sun City Café, Bite quickly garnered attention when I discovered it was less than ten minutes from home and giving the restaurant a few weeks to get its footing before paying a visit with three friends the simple conclusion is that either they still haven’t figured it out, or perhaps that they never will.
Located in a strip mall, pretty standard for Las Vegas, Bite is the invention of Chef Andrey Ariza and having personally contacted the restaurant weeks prior to find the website and menu (and subsequently linking it to their urbanspoon, yelp, and foursquare accounts) the first tip-off regarding customer service occurred when their online question form went unanswered and finding similarly disinterested staff located in store suffice it to say that those who drink their coffee quickly should sit close enough to the back of the restaurant to fill their own – the bottomless cup of $2.85 brew admittedly good, though the temperature could have stood to be turned up a few degrees.
Pleasantly decorated for Christmas, with a small kitchen and at least three line cooks manning the fryers and grills, it was with football in the background that an order was placed and requesting the food in two rounds the items rolled out at a good pace – the mistaken substitution of pancakes for French Toast one flaw, while the ‘funfetti’ stack was served without yogurt as though no one would notice – a later excuse of “we just replaced it with butter, sorry ‘bout that bro” apparently felt to be service-recovery enough.
Speaking to the quality of the food, much like the rest of Bite it was a bit of a mixed bag, the first round of savories honestly proving superior to the second set of sweets with the Monte Cristo fairly well constructed despite being unfried while the “Ultimate” was interesting if only for the runny eggs at the center, though this also contributed to a substantial degree of sogginess when taking into account the somewhat greasy sausage, the Beer Cakes surprisingly my favorite plate with light hoppiness and a crispy griddled layer overlying a fluffy center that paired nicely with smoky bacon.
Transitioning to more childish delicacies after a bit of respite, and a couple of trips to the coffee machine as the restaurant began to fill, 09:10:11 on 12/13/14 arrived just after unordered banana pancakes and funfetti pancakes lacking the menu-promised yogurt arrived and returning the first while settling for flavors no different than average white bread in the other it was in the crispy chocolate waffle and a single $3 mint flapjack that we indulged, both decent but nothing to write home about, while the late arriving Banana Nut French Toast was admittedly quite good, a crispy topcoat overlying a pudding like center with plenty of bananas made all the better by a drizzle of warm maple syrup.
TWO STARS: Stunningly unapologetic for serving items without the toppings promised on the menu and mostly underwhelming in their execution of plates that sound far more interesting than they taste one of my dining companions summed Bite up best when she said that it seemed they were trying to capitalize on the success of BabyStacks, but with four of them already populating a valley with plenty of competition from EggWorks, The Cracked Egg, Blueberry Hill, Hash House, and so many others that offer a better overall experience I’m not really sure Bite offers any good reason to go back.
RECOMMENDED: Beer Cakes, Banana Nut French Toast.
AVOID: Funfetti Pancakes (particularly without the yogurt,) and letting the Ultimate sit for too long as the rim around the egg became congealed and quite unpleasant.
TIP: Currently offering a Buy-One-Get-One Entrée deal, those interested in checking out Bite at a bargain are advised to watch the Review-Journal or community delivered “View” with the caveat that the deal is only available M-F (just like deal offered at The Cracked Egg.)
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Noting up front that our table was spared the Las Vegas Boulevard upcharge, present at nearly every restaurant stretching from Mandalay Bay to the Stratosphere as we were dining as the guests of Brian Massie, it was just prior to 8pm that myself and a friend sat down at Bellagio’s FIX and with a warm welcome from hostesses up front, and superlative service throughout, the menu selected by Executive Chef Renieri Caceres proved every bit the innovative expression of American comfort foods that it is billed to be.
Unabashedly trendy, with a low-lit space that spans a long stretch of the gaming floor next to the Via Bellagio shops, FIX is the oldest of Chef Massie’s Light Group ventures and although a bit more ‘clubby’ than some might prefer as music bumps overhead the noise never once inhibited conversation, though the $20 cocktails fueling surrounding tables at times did incite the occasional loud moment as we dined on ten plates from which only the tiny lobster tacos proved underwhelming in any way.
Served in four courses, from a trio of servers who kept water and iced tea flowing while providing ample descriptions of each course throughout the night, it was with the aforementioned tacos alongside three additional appetizers that the evening began and although impressively plump dates stuffed with spicy chorizo were delicious atop smoky tomatoes while delicate cured duck dazzled atop a cracker-crisp crust it was the bruschetta and emulsified balls of Greek yogurt that proved the undeniable stunner of the opening act, a light citrus note melding the sour spread with lightly charred toast while a sidecar of jam and flakes of sea-salt were available to be added according to taste.
Progressing next to an intermezzo, not originally offered as part of the menu but provided on request, round two arrived on piping hot cast iron and with crispy waffles, a fried egg, and maple syrup aged in bourbon barrels offering a breakfast-y backdrop the confit duck starred at the center, an intensely crisp skin overlying supple flesh with gaminess that rivaled the best renditions of the classic French dish that I’ve tasted to date…on either side of the Atlantic.
Not especially a ‘steakhouse,’ but offering both wet and dry-aged steaks, it was with round three of the evening that Chef Caceres really went all-out and eschewing otherwise excellent sounding cuts it was to a 100-day-dry-aged Tomahawk that we were treated, each medium-rare bite imbued with a bleu-cheese funk far more impressive than that of Tampa’s famous Berns just one week prior and easily on par with the aged product offered at Carnevino, though not quite approaching that of their inimitable Riserva (in texture, flavor, or price.)
Quite sated by the richness of proceeding courses, not to mention lobster mashed potatoes, batons of flash-fried grilled cheese with truffle imbued fondue, or reference standard spoonbread traditionally offered with a crispy pork shank I’d very much like to try next time around, it was with a trio of desserts that the evening would end and although both the hot donuts with a duo of rich sauces and the tender, tropically themed bread pudding were quite delicious it was the server-recommended S’mores that shined brightest, each bite reinventing the campfire classic with textures ranging creamy to crunchy as smokiness and light salinity prevented the composition from trending too sweet.
FOUR STARS: A ‘mid-range’ option in the ever-swanky Bellagio, with prices expectedly trending a bit higher than one would likely pay elsewhere, FIX has been doing “upscale comfort food” for longer than most and although Chef Massie’s duties have now expanded beyond the Strip to Hearthstone the kitchen still seems to be firing on all cylinders while service and setting are energetic without being annoying, a rarity at similar restaurants…particularly here in Las Vegas.
RECOMMENDED: Wood Grilled Bruschetta, Duck & Waffles, Warm Banana Bread, Chocolate S’mores, Dry Aged Beef (ours was the ‘nightly special’ detailed on the menu and may not be available at all times)
AVOID: At $24 the Lobster Tacos simply did not offer enough lobster or flavor to justify the cost. $20 cocktails spiked with all sorts of oddities such as Red Bull and Gum Drops also seemed a bit excessive, though neither of us opted to imbibe.
TIP: Open until 1am and offering a prix-fixe deal for those checking in on social media those looking to dine at FIX on a budget are advised to check it out, a 3+ course affair with several options available for just $60.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
WTF Fries – Black Truffle Salt, Manchego Cheese, Chives
Dr. Pepper Fried Ribs – Meat Candy
The Original Chicken & Waffles- Cornflake Sage Fried Chicken, Bacon & Caramelized Onion Waffle, Bacon Maple Syrup, Pink Peppercorn Butter, Applewood Smoked Cheddar Grits
Espresso Caramel Bacon Pecan Z-Nut
Wrapping up the trip, a 6am flight back to Las Vegas set to occur just eleven hours later, it was after perusing the World of Beers that we entered Z Grille and although we had reservations the decision was made to sit at a hightop juxtaposing the bar in order to watch the end of yet another football game – the setting perfectly fine, though the ‘bro’ style service was unexpected from a space considered to be one of St. Petersburg’s better dining venues.
Loud and high ceilinged, with trendy décor inspired by everything from skateboard culture to a Lucha Libre “Last Supper,” Z Grille features the cooking of Beard Award nominated Chef Zach Gross and located in the fashionable part of St. Petersburg yet quite different from the surrounding cocktail and craft beer chaos the upscale-American menu features plenty of whimsy, yet much like the service the focus seems more content in being clever than executing cleanly as textures as well as flavors frequently lack.
Beginning with a duo of signature starters it was to a large bowl of crisp fries dusted in cheese and truffle scented salt that the meal began and although admittedly quite tasty the large portion eventually became redundant, a textural mélange of seafood and vegetables tinged in acid and smoke far more interesting bite-for-bite, though the heft of the queso eventually left several chips simply too soggy to enjoy.
Moving on to mains, actually another raved appetizer alongside what some call the best fried chicken in town, suffice it to say that the ribs tenderized in a bath of Dr. Pepper were fall-off-the-bone supple and lick-your-fingers good while the “original” Chicken was pleasantly crunchy but far too heavily laden in sage for my friend’s tastes – the accompanying waffle far more successful in marrying unctuous onions with pork beneath a drizzle of maple as notes of smoke wafted from the creamy grits below.
With my buddy at this point ordering a crisp cider in place of dessert it was perhaps the first time in history that I envied his decision to forgo sweets in favor of booze because as much as our server would have liked us to believe the “Z-Nut” was Zach’s rendition of Ansel’s Cronut the tiny $9 ring was actually quite awful as layers of lamination dared not stand up to far too much time in the fryer, let alone a substantial layer of pork and caramel lacquered pecans that would have probably been better all by themselves, and definitely without the unnecessary coffee sauce.
Sriracha Crusted Hot Wings – 10 Jumbo Wings marinated then golden fried and tossed with Sriracha and Voodoo Hot Sauce
Crispy Duck Wings – 6 Tender Drummettes fried crispy served with Sesame Garlic and Wing Dipping Sauce
Having just watched the Buckeyes defeat the Team from Up North it was onward to St. Pete’s that my buddy and I drove; a Florida upset of Seminoles not in the cards but a seat at the bar of Engine No. 9 providing a perfect vantage of the proceedings while two plates of wings served as an admirable pre-dinner snack.
Technically a hockey bar, with Esposito jerseys framed along the wall, but clearly a place for football on Rivalry Weekend it was to a smiling bartender that we were greeted on arrival and with my friend opting for two bottles of beer while I stuck to water it was with some regret that we passed on some of South Florida’s most interesting sounding burgers, particularly as dinner at Z Grille left us both feeling quite flat.
Said by some to be some of the city’s best bar snack, and trumpeted by my friend to be ‘not that hot,’ it was with a plate of 10 nicely brined chicken wings that the tasting began and although Sriracha has become quite overrated in recent times it would be difficult to deny that the acidic tang and restrained spice was an upgrade on more Tabasco-laden flavors, particularly with a helping of bleu cheese studded ranch alongside to further cool things off.
Onward to more interesting things, it was at my behest that a half-dozen confit style duck legs arrived and featuring a significant uptick in crispiness atop supple, pink flesh the subtle gamey flavor of the fowl was allowed to shine – a great show of confidence for a dish so often marred by sweetness, though a duo of sauces were provided in sidecars for those who prefer such things.
Going out with a “bang” on the last day in South Florida it was at a four-top in the corner of Datz that Saturday morning found us sat, and with perhaps the sunniest service ever received in a restaurant to-date it was in the sort of carbohydrate heavy indulgence that I love in which we partook, seven out of eight items absolutely immense and sinfully sweet with copiously refilled cups of coffee to wash it all down.
Undoubtedly Tampa’s most trendy spot for breakfast and brunch, with previously visited bakery Dough next door, it was just after 10am that our group entered the already bustling space and with a pastry case up front and newspaper-style menus filled with no less than two-dozen options I’d have liked to taste the only question became where to draw the line.
Beginning first with a duo of desserts…er…appetizers, one from the case up front and the other piping hot from the small kitchen, it was a nearly 16oz brownie alongside a veritable loaf of pull-apart Monkey Bread that the meal began and with both exceedingly rich yet veering in very opposite directions the contrasts of temperatures, textures, and flavors had everyone’s hand coming back for seconds or thirds, a part of the brownie still going home for later as a thick spiral of peanut butter threatened to fill one up and prevent proper enjoyment of entrees about to arrive.
Moving a bit slow due to the onslaught of diners it was to clever anecdotes, more coffee, and plenty of smiles that we were treated during the wait for round two, and having already asked for the brownie to be packed up as I found myself continually tempted to pick at small bites it was perhaps twenty minutes before the real show began – a trio of toasts and a tower of pancakes threatening to rival longtime favorites in cities like Chicago, Las Vegas, San Francisco, and LA in both caloric content and creativity, each item entirely made from scratch, including the breads, with the crunchy crème brûlée and creamy, tropically themed ‘aloha’ proving the best of the bunch, a small cup of reference standard grits almost forgotten amongst all the sweets.
At this point boxing up a few leftovers for my family’s flight home it was almost mandatory to joke back with our server when he presented the bill without offering dessert and although a bit disappointed that most of their whimsical shirts were sold-out the receipt came with a surprise – one jumbo pumpkin cupcake buried beneath a mountain of icing and a housemade praline cap with a sticky note that said “dessert.”
With family due to depart at noon and brunch plans at Datz it was a quick morning stop that saw us enter Lighthouse Doughnuts in Indian Rocks Beach and although the small shop may be nothing to look at from the outside, or within, the fried treats they are crafting tell are entirely different story – one of a mom n’ pop place doing things just right for a contingent of locals happy to sip coffee while discussing the day’s events or simply perusing the St. Petersburg Times.
Truly a ‘locals only’ spot, but one easily found by those willing to travel a bit off the beaten path, it was just after eight in the morning that the friendly young man behind the counter greeted us with a “what can I get y’all?” and quickly perusing the options a half-dozen was selected – the still hot ring of yeasty dough and strawberry frosting eaten without even giving second thought to a picture as fumbling for the camera would have made a mess of unset pink topping.
Bagging the rest and heading for the car with less than $5 invested it was next into a sour cream old fashion that teeth were sunk and although slightly sweeter than some the texture was superb, a similar statement applicable for an apple fritter that married plenty of cinnamon to pie filling beneath a crispy top coat surprisingly light in oil.
Moving onward to a trio of filled options, the first described as a Chocolate ‘croissant,’ suffice it to say there was nothing laminated or baked about the pastry yet with plenty of rich filling it would seem silly to split hairs, the more appropriately named PB&J as well as the graham cracker dusted Key Lime proving even better with a soft and yeasty pocked wrapped around ample filling from which the tartness of the citrus immediately stole the show.
Duck Duo – Confit and Seared Breast, le Puy Lentils, Braised Cabbage, Wild Mushrooms, Quail Eggs, Red Wine Morello Cherry Sauce
Pork Duo – Juniper Berry Brined Pork Cap, House Smoked Belly, Sous Vide Beets, Charcoal Spaetzle, Cider-Sage Demiglace
75-Day Dry Aged Delmonico with Crispy Onion Rings, Green Beans, Carrots
1” Strip Sirloin with Crispy Onion Rings, Green Beans, Carrots
Loaded Baked Potato
Double Espresso on Ice
“Cafe Con Leche” Bern
alted Chocolate Cake – Valrhona chocolate creme, chocolate cake, malted marshmallow creme icing, mini chocolate malt, and malted chocolate mousse
Bern’s Baked Alaska – Vanilla Lush Cake, Macadamia Nut Ice Cream, Italian meringue, and blended flaming liqueurs
Taste of Bern’s – Sample of Macadamia Decadence Cake, King Midas, Banana Cheese Pie, Chocolate Cheese Pie, and Vanilla Cheesecake
Trio of Liquid Center Cakes – Mini dark chocolate cake, dulce de leche center with banana caramel ice cream. Mini chocolate cake, praline hazelnut center with Caramélia crunch ice cream. Mini chocolate cake, white chocolate center paired with vanilla bean ice cream
Banana Bread Bread Pudding – Toasted banana pecan bread baked in banana custard, dulce de leche, banana caramel ice cream
Purporting the world’s largest private wine collection with veritable bargain bottles alongside esoteric $30,000 “last of its kinds” and offering a tour to anyone interested it would be difficult to call Bern’s Steakhouse anything less than an American Classic, yet as swanky as the spot pretends to be with a no sneakers and jackets suggested dress code the food itself leaves something much to be desired, particularly for those familiar with the great grilled meats available elsewhere across the United States.
Undoubtedly Tampa’s most acclaimed restaurant, and the one place in town where reservations are recommended months in advance, it was just after our 7:00pm scheduled seating that our quartet was sat in one of the restaurant’s several rooms and with service a bit stiff but decidedly polished it was after several questions were answered that the multicourse order came to be, a duo of appetizers preceding soup and salad before a main-course quartet flanked with several inclusives and three a la carte sides rolled out from the kitchen in a fashionable parade.
Sipping a well-priced Malbec along with ever-filled water and freshly brewed tea it was undoubtedly by my doing that the meal began with a duo of liver, and with the tender meatballs showing off a tremendously gamey sapor punctuated by the aromatics of truffle the terrine failed in the most simple of tasks, a couple of veins marring the otherwise creamy texture while too little toast and jam further compromised an entirely unimaginative plate.
Enjoying the onion soup, and more so the tangy dressing served over crisp greens, as much as one can such things it was onward to entrees that our meal progressed and although more modestly priced than options back home in Las Vegas neither the standard Strip nor the dry-aged Delmonico could rival the quality of that at Carnevino, Luger’s, or several others, though such a thing is admittedly very tough to do.
Impressed by sides, particularly the creamed corn blended with surprisingly aromatic Australian truffles, as well as two daily special “duos” that saw duck and pork paired with innovative backdrops including fat-imbued lentils and smoky spaetzle, it was at this point that the meal downstairs ended and settling an admittedly modest bill considering the size of both portions and the staff it was here that a journey through the kitchen, cellar, and labyrinth of rooms took place – the eventual destination an upstairs “dessert room” that seemed to be the stuff of dreams…until the sweets themselves arrived.
Named after Harry Waugh, former director of Chateau Latour and a friend of Bern Laxer, the dessert room features a far more subdued ambiance than the loud dining rooms downstairs and with music selectable in each alcove via tableside phone our selections spanned five plates with a “Taste of Bern’s” and “Trio of Liquid Center Cakes” allowing a total tasting of eleven individual items, only a few of which were remotely memorable while the bread pudding was a dry and flavorless disaster alongside a Baked Alaska that tasted far too strongly of booze, even after allowing enough to cook off so that the edges were singed. Speaking only to what worked, those opting to ‘do’ the dessert room would be well advised to investigate the chocolate cheese pie, a decadent slice served on the “Taste” or to consider some dessert wine alongside a diverse selection of cheeses specially aged in the restaurant below…but certainly not the King Midas, a certified trainwreck of hot fudge atop carrot cake with tropically tinged ice cream that tasted little of supposed macadamia nut.
Mistletoe Cake – Sourcream and Cranberry Cornbread with Basil Glaze and Candied Cranberry
Pistachio Macaron
Bourbon Pecan Pie
Double Espresso on Ice
Never shy about pre-gaming dessert before a proper meal it was after a top-notch $3 shoe shine and brief tour of the Epicurean Hotel that we sat down at Chocolate Pi and with smiling service, surprisingly low prices, and no less than two dozen decadent options ranging from ice creams and mason jars to cakes, pies, and cookies my only regret is that I did not order more – instead saving space for the disaster that was the Harry Waugh Dessert Room at Bern’s Steakhouse across the street.
Admittedly put off by the branding of an upscale “foodie” hotel, but happy to see a unique dessert shop open from 11:00am until quite late, the dining space at Chocolate Pi channels the trendy boutique interior of the adjoining hotel yet with a rich brownie sample offered on entry as well as a somewhat gummy (but well flavored) Pistachio Macaron free via Social Media check-in our five item sampling along with two cups of coffee proved anything but overpriced, an $18 tab yielding some of the best sweets sampled in all of Tampa or St. Petes.
All slick marble and highly polished wood it was at a pair of two tops that our party sat after ordering and with creamy espresso shots pulled fresh over ice it would not be long before each individually plated item was delivered tableside, a bite for bite sharing offering no “right” answer to the question of which item was best – the Banana Pudding an upscale masterpiece with walnut cake replacing traditional wafers and additional cream offered on the side while the Mistletoe Cake presented flavors both sweet and savory amidst a toothsome yet moist base, a final offering Pecan Pie undeniably the most straightforward, yet no less impressive, with light hints of booze and smoke wafting from a sticky-sweet base.
More than a little annoyed by the fact that Cristino’s had managed to substantially botch their ovens, to the point where pizza could not be made, when opting to clean on Turkey Day it was after viewing both Chihuly and Dali that we made a Bee Line to South Pasadena and arriving at Ted Peter’s Famous Smoked Fish just after 3pm there were only a few locals found to be sitting at the open air building where the pleasant smell of burning wood perfumed the air.
Undeniably a local gem, with a limited menu focused around a smokehouse and grill, it was unfortunately with two fish-averse family members that I was dining and with the duo making due with grilled hot dogs along with a side of slaw I duly invested in the relish-studded amalgam of salmon, mackerel, and mullet served with several packs of saltines, each briny bite texturally smooth and balanced by smoke while a coffee mug of well-stocked chowder was equally well crafted with fresh tomatoes lending their natural sweetness and acid to clams, potatoes, corn, and even more fish.
Rounding out the meal with two slices of Florida’s signature pie, in this case matching substantial tartness with lightly whipped cream, suffice it to say that while perhaps not a spot for ‘everyone,’ a trip to Ted Peter’s is worth it for those interested in such things, a cash-only spot like very few others that has survived the test of time by doing one thing and doing it right.
Almond French Toast – Hazelnut Flavored Cinnamon Egg Batter topped with Roasted Slice Almonds, Powdered Sugar
Stuffed French Toast with Ham, Swiss, Powdered Sugar, and Warm Berry Compote
With miles of oceanfront the obvious draw of Clearwater Beach it would be foolish to say that part of the appeal of Clear Sky Beachside Café isn’t the nearby sand and sun, but with the water now trending a bit too chilly for all but the most dedicated or wet-suited it was with some surprise that we arrived to find the small restaurant nearly full just after 8:30am on Black Friday, an outdoor seat proving a bit chilly and thus taking us to one of the few remaining indoor booths where friendly service tinged in “y’all, please, and thank you” proved almost as impressive as the cuisine.
Situated on the small peninsula just northwest of Largo and decorated with dolphins alongside aerials of the thin strip of white sand it was with a generously portioned cinnamon roll drizzled with sticky, sweet caramel that breakfast began and requesting a side of stick-a-spoon-up-straight grits as an appetizer as opposed to a side it was difficult to decide whether to veer savory or sweet, the former certainly more my style but the later so richly imbued with notes of hickory that it would prove impossible to resist – a second order almost considered with entrees and likely even better as offered beneath gulf coast shrimp.
Again taking a route that was one part brine and one part bakery as entrees arrived it was in a French Toast sandwich stacked high with Ham and Swiss that I invested my appetite and adding a bowl of house made berry reduction the unfried take on a Monte Cristo proved invariably impressive, the same to be said for a stack of Banana Pancakes so full of fruit and chopped nuts that they may as well have been flourless and final plate of thick egg bread completely coated in almonds that was delicious even without syrup, but all the better when drizzled with honey and plenty of melting house-whipped cinnamon butter.
Waking on Black Friday with a focus on culture and cuisine far moreso than shopping for bargains it was just after 7:00am that our trio entered the doors of the Largo location of St. Pete Bagel Company and with options running the gamut from hot bagels and spreads to several ‘designer’ donuts as truly gregarious service further enhanced the mom n’ pop feel of the space I cannot even fathom how locals or tourists could consider visiting Dunkin’, Krispy Kreme, or any sort of chain for their early morning carbs.
Admittedly a bit off the beaten path, in a small strip mall off Indian Rocks Road with a more appropriately named flagship in St. Petersburg proper, it was mere moments after stepping foot into the shop frequently awarded Best Bagels in the Tampa Bay Area that we were greeted by friendly smiles and immediately identifying us as visitors the inquiries and recommendations came quickly, an eventual order of two coffees, a half-dozen donuts, and one fritter tallying a mere $8 with long tables ready to seat us as we indulged.
Perhaps unwisely eschewing the eponymous boiled and baked delicacy in favor of items far more sweet it was immediately in the hot n’ crispy apple fritter that I sank my teeth and although a bit more oily than some may prefer I personally found the fruit to dough ratio pleasantly skewed to the left as pockets of cinnamon helped curb substantial sweetness, a similar balance offered by the use of more than the usual amount of sour cream to craft an old fashioned with a nearly pudding-textured center that stands in the same echelon with reference standard versions found at old school doughnut shops speckled around the Chicago and LA.
Somewhat underwhelmed by a blueberry ring whose artificial taste was only enhanced by rich icing but subsequently impressed by the manner in which cream cheese frosting helped to tame the richness of moist Red Velvet it was onward to filled options that the experience progressed and although the crème brûlée was more akin to typical custard beneath a slightly harder than average glaze the Florida favorite Key Lime Pie with added zip from a dusting of zest was truly delicious, a final few bites of Snicker’s themed chocolate cake beneath peanuts and caramel proving a pleasant pairing to the locally roasted French Vanilla coffee.
Brazo Gitano “Cien Anos” – Mazanilla Sherry flamed Spongecake soaked in syrup and topped with Meringue plus Strawberry Sauce
Pumpkin Flan
White Chocolate Bread Pudding – Le Segunda Central Bakery Cuban Bread soaked in Don Casimiro Classic Silver Rum Sauce
Billed on marketing paraphernalia as “Florida’s Oldest Restaurant” while even the branded butter dish pronounced them a “Gem of Spanish Restaurants” it was to a packed house on Thanksgiving night that my mother, aunt, and I entered Ybor City’s storied Columbia Restaurant and although a brief “Traditional Thanksgiving” prix-fixe was offered it was in the restaurant’s signature items that we instead showed interest, an eight plate order and far too much of their outstanding Cuban Bread proving mostly impressive, superlatives and branding aside.
Immense in size and dazzling in décor, with several rooms well worthy of exploration, it was in the central courtyard juxtaposing a small fountain that our trio was seated and perusing the multi-paged menu before asking a few questions it would not be long before a tower of tapas arrived – each of three appetizers well suited for sharing with the croquettes unfortunately a bit oily despite filling ample with crab while both the tender meatballs and sweet-meets-savory empanadas were exceedingly delicious, the later amongst the most intricate and well-stuffed I’ve ever seen.
Moving onward to mains after a sizable delay due to the expected preparation time of proper paella suffice it to say that even split amongst two persons the portion of the rice dish was sizable and although some of the rice could have stood to be a bit more crisp it would be difficult to find fault in any of the meats, the bold chorizo lightly spiced and the chicken shockingly tender despite being all-white meat – a similar quality found in a plate of Pollo Manchego that also proved big enough to share as the aged Spanish cheese fought for top billing with boldly flavored tomatoes atop a bed of lightly perfumed rice.
Undoubtedly a place where dessert should not be missed it was in a dainty seasonal flan harkening dreamwhip pumpkin pie that my mother indulged and, with my aunt investing in bread pudding that saw two slabs of Cuban bread saturated in boozy cream mellowed by pockets of white chocolate, I opted to go for dinner and a show – the tableside flames of Sherry licking the meringue atop spongecake and strawberries with dramatic effect both in theater and flavor, each bite a balance of sweetness and smoke atop booze and butter that mustn’t be missed.
Key Lime Pie – Coconut and Rum Baked on a Graham Crust, Served Over Mango Coulis with Butter Cream and Zest
Chocolate Pecan Tart – Sweet Dough, Georgia Pecans, Brown Sugar Caramel Custard, Milk Chocolate Ganache, Dark Chocolate Curls, Wild Turkey Sauce and Whipped Cream
Suffice it to say that while I’m generally happy to dine with anyone, provided the experience is worth the expense, Thanksgiving 2014 presented a bit of a conundrum – where does one take an 87 year old grandmother that they haven’t seen in over a decade, and moreso one who rarely travels outside a two-mile radius of her Venice home that considers Denny’s tilapia a meal worth dressing up for? The answer, within a ‘reasonable’ distance, was Sarasota’s twenty-two year old waterfront destination Ophelia’s on the Bay.
Located on Midnight Pass Road, on a small peninsula overlooking Little Sarasota Bay, Ophelia’s is one of those restaurants one might assume to cater to the local septuagenarians as well as those celebrating special events and with floor-to-ceiling windows showcasing the waterfront while service is the feigned-formal sort common to country clubs across the country the kitchen features an ever changing menu largely focused on locally sourced proteins as produce, as well as a surprising collection of wild game including goose, venison, and boar on the afternoon of our Thanksgiving feast.
Pricey per my grandmother, though exceedingly affordable per my own fortunate standards, it was with a duo of appetizers, three mains, and a pair of desserts that our meal progressed and with the elderly lady enjoying an iced-down glass of $9 wine to ‘make it last longer’ while my mother imbibed in a delicious $12 hand-muddled martini the first round of plates was an impressive start, a caprese-style salad featuring a generous portion of soft cheese over crisp tomatoes amidst aromatic dressings while the torchon of foie gras served over a round of briny bread pudding with cranberries to add balance was the sort of thing I’d be happy to see on the tasting menu at a place like The Inn at Little Washington or even Per Se.
Progressing rather quickly to entrees, prices ranging $29 to $36 with an premium placed on more ‘exotic’ meats, it was in a plate of lobster from which she only ate 1/3 (before packaging the rest) that my grandmother placed her faith and marveled by the fact that she did not need to shuck the crustacean, served over gnocchi, herself it appeared she loved every bite – or perhaps just spending time with family without having to worry about the check – while my mother and I enjoyed a duo of well prepared traditional Thanksgiving birds with decidedly non-traditional sides, her stuffing and my potatoes both exceptional, though the later appeared entirely alien to the contented lady across the table from me.
Explaining that she ‘couldn’t possibly’ eat dessert, but was happy to share bites of mine, suffice it to say that I was glad to have some leftover treats from Dough in the car for the ride home when my grandmother decided she ‘loved’ the decadent Chocolate Pecan Tart enough to take more than a few bites, and although trending more sweet than one would hope beneath a layer of buttercream frosting the Key Lime Pie was pleasant enough, much like the conversation amongst our trio in a space that proved more than suitable for such an event.
Key Lime Pie Tartlette / Coconut Cream Pie Tartlette
Salty Caramel Cupcake
Buckeyes
Pumpkin Pie Donut
PB&J Donut
Crème Brulee Donut
Whiskey Caramel Pecan Donut
Birthday Cake Donut
French Toast Donut
Already planning a Saturday brunch at Datz it seemed only appropriate to pre-order some Thanksgiving Day treats from its sister bakery and picking up several items on Wednesday, as well as a few more after Saturday’s breakfast, one could make a strong case for either space being worthy of ‘destination dining’ status to those toting a substantial sweet tooth anywhere near Tampa Bay.
Truly a spot focused on tongue-in-cheek whimsy with an extra helping of ‘fun’ it was nearly two weeks before leaving Las Vegas that I contacted Dough and arranging for a pie as well as a few tartlettes to take to a family gathering I was assured that several additional items would be available a la carte in store, the eventual selections ranging from cupcakes and donuts to fanciful candies including a pair of peanut butter pudding balls dipped in chocolate that bested any I’d experienced during my 30+ years as a resident of the Buckeye State.
Sourcing many local purveyors, both for production and items offered on the store’s shelves, it was to the tune of a half-dozen donuts and a single cupcake that our in-store order was conducted and with a dense base beneath thick frosting suffice it to say the Salty Caramel Cupcake is a dish best shared, the richness of the chocolate not even close to reined in despite a creamy core and saline topnotes, while each of the donuts featured far less heft, the cake options unfortunately a bit drier than would be my preference while the filled squares were all reference standard; each leavened brioche base piped to bursting with housemade jams and custards from which the crème brûlée and pumpkin pie should both be considered ‘musts.’
A bit underwhelmed by the portion of each $5 tartlet despite up-front fruit flavors and textbook textures in each it was finally in the Pecan Pumpkin Pie that we indulged and although perhaps not as interesting as it sounded on paper it would be tough to argue that fresh pumpkin puree topped in crumbled housemade pralines could ever be less than delicious, the $14 pricetag a veritable steal for a nearly two-pound serving with an all butter crust that remained crisp for nearly three days.
Said by some to be the most interesting restaurant in Tampa Bay or Saint Petersburg, a pre-game dinner at Edison Food + Drink Lab saw my oldest friend join in on a culinary tour trek across the Sunshine State and although the loud, industrial interior and forced valet parking left much to be desired the majority of Chef Jeannie Pierola’s creative cuisine lived up to high billing, a plate of truly awful and oily crullers the lone exception to the rule.
Obviously a space built for youngsters with trendy beers and cocktails served at a bar while wood and polished stone dominate the dining area it was mere moments after seating that drinks were offered and with some choosing to imbibe I instead explored the whimsical menu, a two page ordeal with several options seeming a bit overwrought while others played on culinary concepts from various regions around the world.
Beginning first with appetizers ranging from $9 to $17 it should seem obvious that items like foie gras and squash blossoms carry an upcharge but as good as both the creamy rangoon with aromatic sauce as well as the intensively savory take on duck liver were it was actually the light donuts dusted in confectioners’ sugar and draped with ham that stole the show, the addition of briny cheese and compressed melon offering a one-two punch of flavors helping to enliven the palate between each bite.
At this point experiencing a slight delay between courses due to an influx of several parties while my buddy ordered a second bottle of beer it was with good fortune that mains proved well worth the wait and with the chicken and waffles focused on earthy aromatics rather than overdoing it with spice the flavor profiles of both it and the impressively crisp duck can only be described as inspired, the tomato soup and tender beef a bit more straightforward though well prepared, delicious, and generously portioned just the same.
At this point pushing our luck in terms of making it to Amalie Arena on time it was in a trio of desserts that we called it a wrap and although the crullers proved not only greasy, but also cooked in questionably fresh oil, both the layered candy bar and butter soaked cake were far more pleasant, the chicory ice cream of the former a particularly lovely pairing to creamy banana custard while the batons of airy meringue added much needed levity to the heft of the large yellow square.
The Star Combination Platter – Shrimp, Oysters, Scallops, Grouper fried Golden Brown with Fries, Hush Puppies, and Slaw
Crab Cakes with Slaw, Cheese Grits, Hush Puppies
Captain Kathe’s Key Lime Pie
Quaintly located dockside in the small town of Cortez with a cash-only counter serving up ocean fresh seafood from A.P. Bell Fish Company next door the Star Fish Company could just as easily be a local gem for residents of the small fishing village and onlooking pelicans but having garnered national attention for both the cuisine and the ambiance the sizable garage-cum-kitchen overlooking the water proved an unbeatable stop on a cross-state trip from Miami to Tampa.
Visited once by my mother and aunt during a previous vacation with their cousins I have to admit I was surprised that the two of them had accidentally discovered such a gem, yet arriving mid-day on the Wednesday before Thanksgiving the crowd was apparently par for the course, a twenty minute wait in line followed by another twenty at the table for fried fish and seafood casting aside any semblance to the frozen stuff served at chains or places far removed from the coast.
Starting first with key lime pie and a cup of rich chowder as both items were ready in wait suffice it to say that the former was the best we experienced on the trip and although some would claim the cream unauthentic the pie itself was so tangy it actually benefitted from the accoutrement, the addition of crackers to the chowder almost equally necessary as the potage was extremely thick and so chock-a-block full of crab and cream corn that it was almost too rich.
Next treated to a trio of two white containers and a cardboard white basket it was all sorts of indulgence that waited and thankfully offering several combination plates at prices far less than would be assumed not a single items save for the slightly limp fries was less than exemplary, the breading on oysters, scallops, and grouper extremely light while the crabcakes and fritters were probably 90% meat, just enough breadcrumbs in place to hold each together without detracting at all from the naturally sweet shellfish.
Taking a short walk from the expansive space that houses Buenos Aires Bakery to the far more cozy confines of Moises Bakery it should probably come as no surprise that the later features a far more frenetic atmosphere than the first and although regulars completely packed the small dining area an English-friendly staff still made me feel like a friend of the house, a request for recommendations met mostly with items I’d already targeted yielding a five-part order from which only a slightly doughy croissant would prove less than exceedingly well made.
Assuredly a ‘locals only’ sort of spot, and a place where everyone seemed to know one another by name, it was mere moments after placing my $7.75 order that items were placed in plastic baskets and although seats were entirely full a standing-room only table at the door was recently abandoned, the steaming hot empanada carefully cut with a fork and knife to liberate ham and Swiss from a crisp and thin pocket decidedly different from that at Buenos Aires and nearly twice the size but equally delicious and devoid of grease just the same.
Progressing from savory ham and cheese to creamy egg-custard at the center of a flaky butter danish before moving to the sweeter parts of the quintet it was here that the uninspired croissant was sampled and returning the rest of it to the bag we were left with the two best items of the entire three-stop morning, a powdered sugar coated Alfajor the definition of sweet decadence while a cup of Tres Leches upped the ante with a swirl of caramel – a ‘Quatro Leches,’ if you will and a reason in and of itself to make the trip from South Beach up north.
Entremets – Tres Leches Cake, Dulce de Leche Horn, Chocolate Caramel Square, Caramel Peanut Butter Cake
Dulce de Leche Croissant
Dulce de Leche Cream Puff
Egg Custard Danish
Guava Danish / Cream Cheese Danish
The second stop on a morning trek towards Tampa Bay, Buenos Aires Bakery proved to be a destination sort of place for someone with an intense interest in traditional ethnic pastry and whether Argentinean, African-American, Caucasian, Cuban, or otherwise the vast selection and friendly service seemed to put a smile on everyone’s face while festive decorations and televised futbol pleased the eye.
Far larger in size than one would expect from the street it is to a selection of nearly one hundred items that those entering the Miami Beach bakery are tempted and although ordering can prove to be a difficult process given the lack of signage and English-as-a-second-language nature of the staff those willing to take a chance are likely to be rewarded – the prices a veritable bargain for treats running the gamut from sweet to savory with several sizes offered to allow for substantial tasting regardless of appetite or party size.
Focusing largely on items considered signatures by those ‘in the know’ it was with one piping hot fried empanada that our tasting began and with the pastry nearly choux-like in texture the fillings were creamy and smooth with nary a bit of oiliness to be found, a similar experience offered by the crispy caramel creampuff – essentially a profiterole packed with dulce de leche without suffering from sogginess at all.
Moving next to a plate of petit-fours, each offering a single bite of one of Buenos Aires Bakery’s well regarded cakes, suffice it to say that any event celebrated with the milky Tres Leches is bound to be a success and while the others were also quite tasty in their own rights none of them could rival a quartet of laminated pastries to follow – the soft buttery layers less crispy than French counterparts but the fillings each reference standard, the housemade guava jam and still-warm egg custard my personal favorites while my mother and aunt swooned over a cream cheese danish that walked a fine line between sweet and savory that the powdered sugar dusted croissant happily ignored.
