Endo Edibles

September 7, 2014
7:14 AM
by: Uhockey

Wildberry Pancakes and Cafe, Chicago IL

Wildberry Pancakes and Café

Bottomless Drip Coffee from Intelligentsia and $2 pure maple syrup (and a giant plate of syrup and butter)

Red Velvet French Toast with Vanilla Anglaise and Fresh Strawberries

Banana Bread French Toast with Cut Banana

Signature Berry Bliss Pancakes – Vanilla Anglaise, Blackberry Coulis, Berry Mascarpone, Fresh Berries

Awakening early on the last day of my trip to take a long run along Lakeshore Drive it was with nearly twelve miles under my feet that I showered, packed my bags, and gathered my mother and aunt for breakfast at Wildberry Pancakes and Café, a regional brunchery with two locations in the ‘burbs and one within city limits. Ever the target of tourists thanks to prime real estate just steps from Millennium Park, and already sporting a 45 minute wait as the clock approached eight, it was largely an effect of convenience that led us to stay at a restaurant from which I did not particularly expect much and with seats eventually found in the center of a bustling dining room my suspicions were immediately confirmed – the service overburdened and perfunctory while food was pleasant without being memorable at all. Expectedly high priced for clever interpretations of diner classics including pancakes, bennies, and everything in between it was a total of three sweets plus rarely-replenished coffee that our meal progressed – the kitchen undoubted rushing to turn tables and serving a short-stack in place of a requested full stack. Arriving no less than 15 minutes after ordering, along with enough artificial maple syrup to smother more than twice as many plates, it was with dyed-red bread that dining began and topped with supplemental syrup from Vermont for $2 the texture was fine, the taste not particularly cocoa though pleasant with berries and cream. Faring better than my selection, both my aunt’s fluffy pancakes and mother’s griddled quick bread were well prepared with plenty of natural sweetness and although neither were ‘rave worthy’ or even ‘worth the wait,’ neither was particularly a poor choice –even if our server seemed to be rushing us out the door just thirty-five minutes after we had sat down.

RECOMMENDED: The pancakes trumped both styles of French Toast and featuring a light, fluffy crumb topped with quite a few berries easily represented the best ‘deal’ of our breakfast.

AVOID: Red Velvet French Toast seems like a bit of an upsell for an item that tasted mostly like white bread with a hint of cocoa. Clever, sure, but not particularly well executed considering the increase in price from ‘standard.’

TIP: Obviously prone to tourist traffic an early, off hours, or weekday visit is probably a safer bet than Sunday at 8am, though if our walk the prior week to YumCha was any indication the place is never particularly ‘dead.’

http://www.wildberrycafe.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Chicago, Coffee, Food, French Toast, Illinois, Intelligentsia, Pancakes, Vacation, Wildberry Pancakes and Cafe

September 6, 2014
7:26 PM
by: Uhockey

Publican Quality Meats [Private Event,] Chicago IL

Publican Quality Meats

Charcuterie – Guinea Amaro Pate, Spicy Coppa, ‘nduja, pickled vegetables, mustard, whole wheat bread

Cheese – Alpha Tolman, Shropshire Blue, Red Hawk, Raspberry Jam, Kumquats, Sugar and Spice Mixed Nuts

Spicy Pork Rinds

Sourdough Bread, Local Butter, Olive Oil

Little Gem Salad – Crispy Pigs Ears, Radishes, Buttermilk Vinaigrette

Whole Wheat Bread

Fried Perch – Onion Rings, Lemon, Parsley, Spicy Aioli

BBQ Carrots – Dill Buttermilk Dressing

Cheesy Focaccia

Slow Roasted Porchetta – Spinach, Country Bread Salad, Salsa Verde

Brassicas – Bagna Cauda and Almonds

Stone Fruit Crisp – Sweet Crème Fraiche, Orange Candy, Mint

Chocolate Cake with Vanilla Icing and Hazelnut Cake with Salty Caramel Buttercream from Alliance Bakery

Acknowledging that it is entirely unfair to ‘rate’ the wedding of your only sibling but happy to assume that I had a lot to do with her refined tastes as well as the choice of venue I will simply say that, aside from a small snafu regarding the cake and a plate of bagna cauda too briny for even myself, no aspect of our the reception at Publican Quality Meats was less than exemplary on the evening of September 6th. Obviously a ‘big’ event despite a party of less than thirty, and one largely planned by the bride and groom themselves, it was shortly after the shop’s close of business that the space was converted into a duo of long tables and with each part of the four course menu presented family-style fashion there was never even a question of enough food to go ‘round, the only real quandary being where to invest one’s appetite after an opening spread of charcuterie including ample amounts of RedHawk, Pork Rinds ‘nduja, pate, and kumquats had already proven enticing enough to warrant several stops. Every bit a meal for the memory books as each course arrived with its own pairing of bread it was in salad topped with pigs ears and tangy vinaigrette that seated service began and moving quickly to a childhood favorite of fried lake perch alongside tender carrots I could see both my mother, aunt, and sister smile – memories of my grandparents and summers in Port Clinton undoubtedly dancing in their heads. Moving next to textbook porchetta, a Publican signature both tender and teaming with spice, and finally to the first of several scoops of bubbling stonefruit crisp it was finally at the three-hour mark that cake was cut and although everyone at this point was either drunk on wine or filled with food not a single one missed a chance to indulge – the high quality service team joining the party in a celebration of love with the best ‘wedding food’ any of us are ever likely to enjoy.

RECOMMENDED: Booking a party with a legendary restaurateur like Paul Kahan was every bit the sure-fire choice one would expect, each dish including the lamented brassicas hand selected by my sister from a large variety of plates. For those visiting Publican or PQM on more casual terms, suffice it to say that the house made charcuterie shines and anything featuring pork is a safe bet.

AVOID: Not pastry kitchen and further foiled by staff turnover it was only two weeks before the big day that my sister was informed that PQM would be unable to craft her wedding cake – a last minute request more than met by Alliance Bakery and clearly showing exactly why the Wicker Park landmark has garnered such acclaim.

TIP: For those not particularly squeamish about butchery and the processing of animals in all forms a trip to the basement restrooms is a must; the team of nearly a dozen working diligently and respectfully throughout the evening to craft artisan cuts used in each of the One Off Hospitality Group restaurants.

http://publicanqualitymeats.com/

Posted in Alliance Bakery, Bread Basket, Chicago, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Illinois, La Colombe, Pork, Publican Quality Meats, Vacation

September 6, 2014
1:19 PM
by: Uhockey

Green Street Smoked Meats, Chicago IL

Green Street Smoked Meats

Sliced Brisket

Pulled Pork

Pork Belly

Potato Salad

Frito Pie

Vanilla Peach Swirl Softserve

Owned and operated by Brendan Sodikoff, a man whose portfolio of success seems to know no bounds, it was only an hour after my sister and her fiancée had tied the knot that myself and two others descended upon Green Street Smoked Meats – the highly acclaimed contemporary smokehouse just steps of Randolph once again proving its owner’s ability to amaze regardless of region or cuisine. Already familiar with stylish spaces like Bavette’s, Maude’s, Au Cheval, and others it was admittedly an unexpected surprise to find the building housing Green Street to be open and airy with an appearance best described as ‘modernized-barn’ yet with a centralized bar and looped lightbulbs aplenty everything about the restaurant was welcoming – the team at the counter happy to chat about everything from the Rick James soundtrack to the tender meats ready to be sliced by the half-pound. Certainly more spendy than several similar spots, with brisket and belly tallying $24/lb while pulled pork and ribs ring in at a more modest $18, it was eventually in a trio of options that we invested our appetites and adding in a soda, sides, and swirl of soft-serve our nearly $55 tab set the bar quite high. Beginning first with sides, our first taste of Green Street cuisine found skin-on potatoes roasted to tender amidst a creamy, low-mustard sauce and personally satisfied with just a taste while my aunt raved each bite I instead turned attention to a Frito Pie, the corn chips still crispy beneath a veil of melted cheddar, smoky meat sauce, and jalapenos leaning more ‘medium’ than hot. Cleansing the palate with a few bites of soft-serve, the creamy base lovely while flavors of fresh peach popped, it was onward to meat that the meal moved and although the lightly seasoned brisket was on par with much of what I tasted in Texas it was the swine that stole the show, first with shredded pork that dialed back the sweetness to let more natural flavors amidst light acid shine, and then in tender pork belly with skin smoked bronze atop a smoky core the texture of bacon that almost melted on the tongue.

RECOMMENDED: Pork Belly, Pulled Pork, Brisket.

AVOID: Those of a more sensitive palate are advised to tread lightly with the hot sauce as it presents quite a punch.

TIP: Open noon till late on weekends, 5p-1a on Tuesday through Friday, and closed on Monday be advised that, much like the best of Texas, Green Street Smoked Meats often sells out long before the end of service – the beef rib gone only two hours after opening on our Saturday visit.

http://greenstreetmeats.com/

Posted in Barbeque, Chicago, Dessert, Food, Green Street Smoked Meats, Ice Cream, Illinois, Pork, Vacation

September 6, 2014
9:50 AM
by: Uhockey

Little Branch Cafe, Chicago IL

Little Branch Café

Cinnamon Roll

Blueberry Scone

Chocolate Chip Cookie

Mascarpone Stuffed French Toast – 4 slices of brioche stuffed with mascarpone, grilled and topped with blueberry compote

Selected largely as a result of its proximity to Burnham Harbor my second breakfast on the Saturday of my sister’s wedding saw me seated at a tiny two-top inside Little Branch Café, an unassuming little place next-door to an organic dry-cleaner that surprisingly generated a steady stream of patrons throughout the course of my 45 minute stay. Apparently present since 2007 and well known to residents of the South Loop, where destination dining is rare, it was just moments past 10:00am when I entered the snug space and with counter-service followed by self-seating the service was perfunctory at best – a four item order with item to be prepped by the kitchen while the rest were bagged despite my insistence that they were going to be enjoyed in house. Presented with an empty plate and a plastic cup for water my first bites of Little Branch would come in the form of a thinly frosted cinnamon roll and proving far more doughy than the version from Brunch only a few bites were taken before the rest was set aside, my attention soon turning to a chocolate chip cookie that was good, if not memorable, followed by a still-warm scone that proved the best of the trio as pockets of fresh berries juxtaposed sugary pearls amidst a background built on butter. To this point largely underwhelmed it was approximately twenty minutes after seating that my French Toast would arrive and although admirable in its sweetness even before adding maple syrup I couldn’t help but find the description oversold – the ‘four’ pieces of brioche cut so thin that each ‘sandwich’ was no larger than a standard slice while a light smear of mascarpone offered no more texture or nuance than the pool of Crème Anglaise did by itself.

RECOMMENDED: The Scone was quite nice and the French Toast was competent, neither destination-worthy, but ‘good enough’ if one is in the area.

AVOID: The Cinnamon Roll was essentially a dinner roll with light cinnamon notes and a lacquer of frosting and the chocolate chip cookie was no better than one cut from a Pillsbury roll.

TIP: Small in size and bathed in natural light it seems as though the vast majority of diners at Little Branch were both locals and regulars, several tables lingering over conversation and coffee thus leaving my table the lone empty two-top as I exited the restaurant and thus leading several customer to walk away empty handed or simply order from the counter and take their pastries or coffee elsewhere – an early or off-hours visit probably best for those looking to dine in.

http://www.littlebranchcafe.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Chicago, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Illinois, Little Branch Cafe, Vacation

September 6, 2014
7:23 AM
by: Uhockey

Brunch, Chicago IL

Brunch

Fresh Baked Cinnamon Rolls Homemade daily and baked in a cast iron skillet, topped with sweet creamy icing

Donut French Toast Two cake donuts, sliced, soaked with our homemade French toast batter and grilled until golden brown. Topped with powder sugar and served with maple syrup and fresh strawberries

Short Stack of Blueberry Buttermilk Pancakes

Brunch Blend from Intelligentsia, bottomless and one to go.

Waking up early as ever on the day of my sister’s wedding it was after another long run and shower that I walked down the street to Brunch, the rather obviously named spot serving a menu of…you guessed it…breakfast and lunch classics, plus several with a twist. Large in size and efficient in service, with several flatscreen televisions decorating the otherwise wood and cement space, it was to a largely empty dining room that I arrived just after 7:00am and quick to fill with folks of all ages shortly after I placed my order the atmosphere remained enjoyable, coffee refills coming at a near record-setting pace until my appetizer appeared. Every fancying sweets over savories, particularly at breakfast, it was largely on the advice of my server that I started with the restaurant’s signature cinnamon roll and having passed on French toast sticks, muffin tops, and chicken n’ waffle bites in its favor I immediately owed the young woman thanks – each bite of the golden spiral dense with butter while spicy Saigon cinnamon melded smoothly with sugary frosting, an unnecessary sidecar for those who simply can’t get enough. Admittedly starting strong it was only after the cast-iron skillet was empty with more coffee consumed that the rest of my order arrived and although neither would reach the high bar set by the cinnamon roll both the griddled donut and tiny short-stack would prove pleasant – the former obviously high on sweetness scale even before adding maple syrup while the later was a bit light on the blueberries, though fluffy and rife with buttermilk in each and every bite.

RECOMMENDED: Definitely order the cinnamon roll, and consider going with a large group to experience more of the ‘starters’ and small plates – the strawberry stuffed French toast bites at the table next to me looked divine while griddled muffin tops looked like a potential upgrade on the pancakes at a table near the door.

AVOID: The Donut French Toast was clever, though not a substantial improvement on a ‘standard’ cake donut considering the $10.99 tab.

TIP: Nowhere near as packed as Wildberry while serving far better food, Brunch is a fine choice for those desiring breakfast downtown, a pre-9am arrival recommended on weekends for those unwilling to abide a long wait, though reservations can be made in advance.

http://www.brunchit.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Brunch, Chicago, Coffee, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Illinois, Intelligentsia, Pancakes, Vacation

September 5, 2014
6:57 PM
by: Uhockey

Boka, Chicago IL

Boka

Nothing Gold – Ketel One, Fernet-Branca, Cherry, Lime, Bitters / Bee’s Knees – Beefeater, Honey, Lemon

Asparagus Veloute with Aromatic Oils

Salted Pretzel Roll, Olive Loaf, House Churned Butter

Heirloom Carrots – pistachios, amaranth, smoked goat cheese

Foie Gras Terrine – gooseberries, hazelnuts, vadouvan, brioche

Ricotta Gnudi – hazelnuts, morcilla, raisins

Summer Squash & Tomato – burrata, pickled watermelon, sesame, olives

Salt Cod Ravioli – corn, arugula, radish

Roasted Peking Duck Breast – peach, celery root, fermented black beans

Seared Scallops – corn, morcilla, sea urchin broth

Roasted Chicken – fennel, radicchio, pistachio, brioche

Coffee & Mascarpone – Hazelnut, Elderflower, Honey

Roasted Peaches – Olive Oil Cake, Buttermilk, Pecan Ice Cream

Chocolate Ganache – Caramelized White Chocolate, Plum, Pistachio Ice Cream

Coconut Rice Pudding – Tres Leches, Lime, Cassis Sorbet

Peppermint Paddys

Missing out on Lee Wolen’s tenure at The Lobby due to Chicago traffic during my last visit I was absolutely thrilled when I heard the young chef had landed at Boka in early 2014, the longstanding resident of restaurant ‘to-do’ list immediately vaulting to ‘must visit’ status on the night before my sister’s big day. Known best, perhaps, as the restaurant next to Alinea but more than once nabbing a Michelin Star of its own under previous chefs our arrival at Boka was a surprisingly simple affair with both reservations and traffic proving far less a hassle than one would expect and seated on entry at a large four-top amidst an open dining room with amusing décor it was to professional yet playful service that our night would unfold – the four course tasting that followed featuring a dozen plates in which nary a flaw could be found. Truly someplace to explore, the restaurant itself featuring an entirely different experience in the dimly-lit bar as compared to the more organic main room, the same can certainly be said of Wolen’s late summer menu and with an opening volley of creamy soup followed by the first of many rounds of bread the a theme quickly emerged, each plate a colorful mélange of immaculate produce manipulated just enough to yield peak flavors while herbs and spices joined in to accent equally well executed proteins. Already having stated that each dish was excellent but choosing to focus on a few favorites the best bites of the meal were delivered in a duo of delicate pastas and as much as I loved the creamy brandade it was the soft gnudi that stole the show, each buttery morsel smoky from the blood sausage yet focused by underlying nuttiness while the raisins natural sweetness occasionally came to the fore. Obviously renowned for his chicken, the crisp skin reapplied to sous-vide breast with buttery cracker stuffing and equally impressive with caramelized scallops bathed in an umami-laden broth it was finally in a quartet of sweets that the evening would culminate and although each one was impressive in both concept and complexity the focus again fell squarely on flavors, the subtlety of creamy rice pudding acting to meld sweet cream to bright citrus particularly memorable though the southern-themed peaches and pralines was also brilliant, a light note of buttermilk keeping sweetness in check while the cake literally melted on the tongue.

RECOMMENDED: Every single item we ordered was nothing short of impressive, Chef Wolen showing a keen eye in pairing seasonal vegetation with perfectly prepared proteins while desserts, too, were quite strong.

AVOID: Missing Chef Wolen during this next-step of his career – the young man is undoubtedly likely to find a restaurant of his own someday soon.

TIP: Having mentioned the bar vs. the main dining room above, those sensitive to noise while dining are well advised to request a seat in the later – the same music playing throughout the space is approximately 3x louder in the more casual half of the restaurant, though the main menu is served throughout.

http://www.bokachicago.com/

Posted in Boka, Bread Basket, Chicago, Coffee, Dessert, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, Illinois, Pork, Vacation

September 5, 2014
2:27 PM
by: Uhockey

Smoque BBQ, Chicago IL

Smoque

Half and Half Brisket and Pulled Pork Sandwich

Peach Cobbler

Bread Pudding

Cornbread

Macaroni and Cheese

Opting to take advantage of an automobile for transportation yet not wanting to overdo it before dinner at Boka it was just after 2:30 on a Friday afternoon that my mother, aunt, and I entered Smoque and with the lunch crowd still lingering but several seats open it was only dried out cornbread and an unpleasant ‘host’ who barked at us that no one could be seated until an order was placed which prevented the visit from being a resounding success. Located on Pulaski just seconds from the Kennedy Expressway and considered by some to represent Chicago’s best barbeque a visit to Smoque is unlikely to be mistaken for anything resembling an ‘upscale experience’ and opting to eschew the more fanciful digs of Lillie’s or Bub City there is no doubt that the food is the star of the show – a lean blackboard menu, steel trays lined with white paper, and plenty of napkins on wooden tables the only things besides a few pictures decorating otherwise Spartan décor. Every bit matching the Texas experience with orders placed at the counter and sodas self service it was after only a few minutes of indecision that our tray was presented, the $20 tab a veritable bargain for a large portion of meat along with two sides and a duo of desserts. Admittedly ordering lightly with a focus on favorites it was first in the brisket that each of us indulged and with a good smoke ring visible on each slice the tender beef shined, a statement slightly less applicable to pulled pork that was just a touch too sweet. Largely unimpressed by cornbread that was improved only slightly by a pat of butter but happy to find similarly plated macaroni tender amidst rich cheese it was onward to dessert that we moved and although the peach cobbler was admittedly quite good it was for the bread pudding that we’d all fight, a nearly molten slab slathered in creamy caramel with smoky pecans adding just the right bit of crunch.

RECOMMENDED: Brisket, Bread Pudding.

AVOID: Cornbread, and adding too much of the overly-sweet barbeque sauce.

TIP: Open at 11:00am every day of the week aside from Monday and smoking throughout much of the day I’ve been told that non-peak times are the best to visit Smoque from a consistency standpoint, the brisket and ribs especially subject to variability during times when the kitchen is in a rush to keep up – or serving up options made much earlier in the day.

Home

Posted in Bread Pudding, Chicago, Cornbread, Dessert, Food, Illinois, Pork, Smoque, Smoque BBQ, Vacation

September 5, 2014
12:50 PM
by: Uhockey

Cicchetti, Chicago IL

Cicchetti

Tomato, Basil, and Mozzarella Pizza

Nonna’s Meatballs with Pancetta Tomato Sauce and Ciabatta

Saffron Risotto with Melted Leeks and Fried Farm Egg

Gnocchi with Braised Lamb, Green Tomato, Cucumber, Basil Pine Nut Puree

Corn Fettuccini with Smoked Pink Shrimp, Black Pepper Pepita Crumble, Broccoli, Corn Cream sauce

Aged Trio of Duck – Breast, Sausage, and Confit with Roasted Potatoes and Balsamic Cipollini Onions

Scrambled Egg Bruschetta – Soft Scrambled Eggs, Ricotta, Crispy Hen of the Woods Mushrooms, Green Salad

Reverse Affogato – Coffee Gelato, Vanilla Malted Milk, Sugar Dusted Doughnuts

Valrhona Grand Cru Gianduja Dark Chocolate Cannoli – Sweet Potato Flan, Candied Blood Orange, Chocolate Sorbetto, Balsamic ‘Caviar’

Caramel Tart – Dark Chocolate Dipped Corn Ice Cream, Hazelnut Cracker Jack

With my mother and aunt now in town and the wedding party soon to arrive our final meal as a ‘family of four’ took place at Cicchetti, the Midwest-begets-Italy concept currently making waves on Chicago’s Near North Side. Featuring the talents of Chef Mike Sheerin and pastries by Sarah Jordan, whose former home (Boka) three of us would visit that night, it was just moments after noon that we parked at the $14 valet and making our way through the doors to a small reception area juxtaposing the bar our reservation was confirmed – a large six-top soon providing us plenty of space in front of a kitchen bathed in natural light. Still a bustling space nearly nine-months after opening with not a seat unoccupied during our two-hour stay it was largely with an eye on diversity that our selections were made and with our server affirming that the ten-plate order was ‘a lot,’ though not excessive it would not be long before the first of four-courses arrived, the bowl of delicate meatballs bathed in rich tomato sauce commanding extra ciabatta in order to be mopped clean while pizza was more-so a flatbread, the crisp crust holding up admirable to puddles of fresh mozz. Treated next to a trio of pastas from which one ‘best’ would be difficult to declare it should only be said that those truly looking to experience Cicchetti at its best are wise to invest here – the vegetal punch of green tomatoes and cucumber an inspired pairing to braised lamb while fresh fettuccini tasted of the end of summer, a bit of crunch from smoky pumpkin seeds hinting at an impending fall. Almost a surefire setup for a letdown in secondi given the quality of each pasta both the duck and the open-faced egg sandwich were admirable, if not memorable, but moving on to dessert the meal again took flight, a duo of deconstructionist efforts in the affogato with donuts and atypical ‘cannoli’ proving exceedingly elegant while the caramel tart, set on each side with boulders of frozen, creamy corn was purely indulgent – another strong contender for ‘best dessert’ in a trip that had already seen several stunning sweets.

RECOMMENDED: With Sheerin and Jordan out as chef and pastry chef effective 9/23/14 it is hard to make any specific recommendations, but based on my experience in their tenure I’d strongly suggest pastas over proteins or antipasti.

AVOID: Risotto was good, but not on par with the handmade pastas while the secondi were merely good, the rest of the meal ‘standout.’

TIP: Keeping in mind the location those arriving by car should add plenty of time to accommodate miracle mile and/or gold coast traffic while also bringing enough cash to account for $14-20 parking.

http://www.cicchettirestaurant.com/

Posted in Chicago, Cicchetti, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Gnocchi, Ice Cream, Illinois, Italian, Pizza, Pork, Vacation

September 5, 2014
7:21 AM
by: Uhockey

Kitsch’n on Roscoe, Chicago IL

Kitsch’n on Roscoe

Bottomless Coffee from Intelligentsia

Fried Chicken and Waffles – Two Pieces of Belgian Waffle, Golden Chicken Thighs, Mixed Fruit, Jalapeno Butter, Fried Egg

Coconut Crusted French Toast – Shredded Coconut Crusted Brioche, Fresh Pineapple and Strawberries, Raspberry Sauce

Kitsch’n Twinkie Tiramisu

Forever a member of my ‘places to visit’ during several trips to the Windy City it was finally on Friday that I decided to stop by Kitsch’n on Roscoe, my sister and her fiancé opting to sleep in on the day before their wedding while I went for an early morning run followed by a two-mile walk to a restaurant that more than lived up to its name. Truly a space that is best seen to be understood with a menu of items both standard and unique it was just after the 8:30am opening that I approached the deceptively sizable space and entering through unlocked doors I immediately became confused, the quirky décor with bedazzled album covers and Tony the Tiger smiling back as The Four Tops played overhead, but not a human to be seen behind the counter or in the kitchen beyond. Deciding to investigate further only after shouting “hello” it was onward to the back room that I progressed and again finding the space empty I was admittedly startled when a small woman emerged from the storeroom, the look on her face likely similar to mine as we both laughed at the circumstances – the cooks arriving a bit later than usual and thus requiring her to start the stoves and gather items to begin service. At this point more than a bit amused it would be mere moments before I found a seat and with the first of several cups of Intelligentsia’s House Blend poured into a bottomless cup a three-part order was placed – the opening duo arriving in expedited fashion from a kitchen who needlessly apologized more than once. Admittedly a bit more expensive than one would expect for food that could best be described as ‘fun’ it was with the restaurant’s signature chicken and waffles that I began and although the bird itself was a bit underwhelming the waffle and butter did an admirable job of steering the ship, though a mere half of the crunchy, golden disc seemed chintzy at best. Improving with subsequent plates my attention soon turned to buttery brioche tossed in shreds of soft coconut and while pineapple could have stood to be sweeter the raspberry syrup helped, an overall lightness to the dish proving a stark contrast to dessert – a pair of America’s favorite snack cakes infused with coffee and cocoa amidst a sea of whipped ricotta that tastes far more refined than the concept would seem.

RECOMMENDED: Twinkie Tiramisu, copious amounts of coffee.

AVOID: Chicken and Waffles are woefully overpriced, undersized, and underwhelming.

TIP: With seating divided between front and back rooms take time to explore the décor, most of it far more interesting than the food itself, including a collection of vintage board games free for anyone to play should they wish to linger over coffee and the restaurant’s funky tunes.

http://www.kitschn.com/

Posted in Chicago, French Toast, Illinois, Intelligentsia, Kitsch’n, Kitsch’n on Roscoe, Tiramisu, Waffles

September 4, 2014
8:28 PM
by: Uhockey

Sanford, Milwaukee WI

Sanford

Pretzel Grissini

Local Trout Rillette, Capers, Dill

Multi-Grain Roll with salted butter

Grilled Pear and Roquefort Tart with Caramelized Onions and Walnuts

Fried Squash Blossoms with Zucchini and Dried Blueberry Caponata

Grilled Duck Breast with Grilled Peaches, Pickled Golden Raisins and Roasted Sunchokes, Sumac Spiced Yogurt

Banana Butterscotch Toffee Tart, Banana Rum Ice Cream

Blueberry Black Currant Clafoutis, Lemon Ice Cream

Double Espresso on Ice

Butter Cookie, Caramel Pecan Shortbread, Chocolate Chip Biscotti

Said by some to be the best restaurant in Wisconsin with dinner service six days per week in an old house on North Jackson Street Justin Aprahamian’s Sanford had long been on my culinary to-do list when I entered the low-lit space, and with service providing the most refined experience of my trip while the kitchen wowed with each plate it can only be said that Sanford is ‘destination’ dining in the least likely of space. Every bit the “white tablecloth” sort of space, with diners around me fitting a well-heeled demographic nearly twice my age, it was just after 6:30 that I entered the small restaurant and with my name soon located in the pen-and-paper register it was to a corner two-top that I was led, the plush upholstered seat nearly so comfortable as to lull one to sleep was the food on display not so eye catching and unique. Featuring a menu of seasonal dishes as well as the classics that helped put Sanford on the map it was largely with the latter that my meal would unfold and as pretzel grissini, an amuse, and then bread served to ready the palate it was in the restaurant’s signature tart that my meal truly began, the rich funk of melting blue cheese finding its balance in walnuts and sweet onions inside a buttery crust to be later revisited with equally impressive results. Focusing next on a seasonal item sold as ‘exquisite’ by my waiter it was in a trio of lightly fried squash blossoms atop sautéed zucchini and fruity gastrique that I next indulged and following this up with a substantial cut of lightly cooked duck I couldn’t help but swoon, the smoky sunchokes and sour yogurt proving an elegant juxtaposition to the sweetness of a late-summer peach. At this point already dreading a late-night drive back to Chicago and thus enjoying a double espresso served over ice I was entirely unable to decide which of Sanford’s two signature desserts I would most enjoy and subsequently opting for one of each my loyalties remain divided even today, the crackling-sugar topped clafoutis a textbook example while the elegant banana arrangement of bananas beneath soft toffee in a bed of butterscotch proved every bit as decadent as its ingredients would seem. Truly a special restaurant and one equally befitting both the young and the old it was finally with a trio of cookies that the night ended and although driving two-hours after dinner is never ideal there is no doubt in my mind I’d do it again, this sort of establishment far too rare in a world dominated by noisy gastropubs and multi-course tastings of modernist cuisine.

RECOMMENDED: The signature items were all deserving of their acclaim but if left to select only one it would be the Roquefort Tart – a ‘cheese course’ for the ages with elements of sweetness, funk, and smoke amidst textures aplenty.

AVOID: If anything on the table was less than impressive it was the grissini, an almost bitter finish that could have used a touch more salt or a bit less time in the oven.

TIP: Offering reservations only by phone and up to two months in advance suffice it to say that such a small dining room is likely to fill fast, my meal on a Thursday evening seeing each table seated at some point during my stay, though there was always at least one two-top available for a walk-ins as some groups dined far faster than others or only stopped in for appetizers and drinks.

Front Page

Posted in Bread Basket, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Milwaukee, Sanford, Vacation, Wisconsin

September 4, 2014
5:57 PM
by: Uhockey

Hinterland Erie Street Gastropub, Milwaukee WI

Hinterland Erie Street Gastropub

Pork Rillette – served warm with apple butter, crispy whole wheat, and pickles

Braised Pork Cheek – Pear and Celery Salad with Red Wine Syrup

Wood Fire Grilled Quail with Broccoli Salad, Cilantro, Charred Onion Vinaigrette, Fried Celery Leaves

Arroz Con Leche – Milk Chocolate Cremeaux, Hazelnut Royaltine, Dulce de Leche, Vanilla Whipped Cream

Peanut Dacquoise Entremet – Pretzel Royaltine, Milk Chocolate Mousse, Blackberry-Peach Jam

With a late dinner at Sanford set to conclude my trip to Wisconsin it was after a tour of the Miller Brewery and the Milwaukee Art Museum that I entered Hinterland, and with Happy Hour clearly a ‘happening’ event at the bar I instead settled into a four-top set for one in the main dining room, a three course meal comprised of five plates showing far more creativity than many trendy ‘gastropubs,’ both stateside and abroad. Toqued by Chef Dan Van Rite and located in the Historic Third Ward with an expected focus on all things local, seasonal, and sustainable including craft beers from Hinterland Brewery in Green Bay it was to a menu filled with temptations that I was greeted on arrival and opting for water as opposed to beer it was only after several questions that an order was crafted, a pot of warm rillettes served surprisingly warm alongside smoky bread in a room awash in rustic, natural décor. Truly impressed by the pork’s smooth sapor as I slowly enjoyed each bite it was only after I had finished the whole jar that my server had the second course fired and arriving with perfect timing, just like everything else throughout my 90 minute stay, the duo that arrived next was unfortunately a mixed experience – the quail slightly overcooked and frankly overwhelmed by the pungency of an onion while the celebrated pork cheek proved every bit the signature many have claimed – the tender, fatty flesh finding its foil in flavors both bitter and sweet. Keeping time constraints in mind as I leisurely enjoyed my meal with the room slowly beginning to fill it was a foregone conclusion that I’d be enjoying dessert as soon as I saw ‘rice pudding’ on the menu and although a bit atypical in presentation, the combination of milky caramel and hazelnuts on a rice-milk panna cotta imbued with cocoa was undeniably delicious – a similar statement similarly befitting a makeshift Mille-Feuille dividing layers of rich mousse with salty pretzels atop a smear of sweet jam.

RECOMMENDED: Pork based dishes seem to be the focal point of Hinterland’s kitchen and if the rillettes are any indication one is well served to check out both charcuterie and potted meats.

AVOID: Perhaps an anomaly or simply a matter of tastes I personally prefer my squab, pigeon, and quail to be closer to pink than featuring a crispy skin, the later apparently of the intended style of the wood grilled quail featured on the menu that night.

TIP: With the bar open at 4pm and the kitchen cooking at 5:00 it was a nice gesture that the team opted to seat me upstairs and start service early, the chef stopping by to say hello while service proved to be both cordial and conversational – checking in, asking questions, and offering suggestions for other places to dine during my next visit to Wisconsin throughout my stay.

http://hinterlandbeer.com/Restaurant_Mil.html

Posted in Dessert, Food, Hinterland, Hinterland Erie Street Gastropub, Milwaukee, Pork, Vacation, Wisconsin

September 4, 2014
2:27 PM
by: Uhockey

Purple Door Ice Cream, Milwaukee WI

Purple Door Ice Cream

Samples of Rum Raisin, The Honolulu, Peanut Butter, Lemon Cardamom, Raspberry Green Tea, Baileys

Tasting of Toffee Butter Pecan, Trail Mix, Maple Nut, Salted Caramel

Named to several local and national ‘best of’ lists for their artisan approach to ice creams featuring almost nothing but locally sourced ingredients a stop at Purple Door Ice Cream’s 2nd Street scoop shop was mandatory for my visit to Milwaukee and with owner Lauren Schultz helping at the counter during my visit the whole experience couldn’t have been smoother – a sentiment applying to both the lovely customer service as well as the product itself. Focusing on a fairly modest 14% milk-fat base with flavors ranging from expected to exemplary it was first to a substantial tasting that I was treated and although I only requested a few bites the rest were insisted upon, the Lemon Cardamom a particularly memorable bite that just barely missed the cut in my ‘flight’ of four flavors, the $6 tab a veritable bargain when compared to other artisan operations across the United States. Clearly focusing on a theme of sweet-meets-salty in each of my selections it was in creamy salted caramel that my tasting began and moving next to toffee butter pecan I was immediately impressed, one of my childhood favorites upgraded with swirls of molasses that tickled the palate while providing a subtle transition to toasty nuts studding ice cream that tasted of syrup-soaked buttermilk pancakes. At this point already impressed enough to support the business further by buying a whimsical shirt to be worn back home it was with a flavor titled ‘trail mix’ that my visit to Purple Door would end and while all the other flavors were indeed quite good it was this one that stole the show, the cream itself imbued with the flavors of grain while raisins, nuts, and even M&Ms added their characteristic textures, tastes, and colors too.

RECOMMENDED: Tasting with abandon, then ordering a flight of whatever tastes best.

AVOID: N/A.

TIP: Additionally offering ice cream sandwiches, shakes, and sundaes with house-made toppings plus several pints to go suffice it to say you will be tempted – several of the items and flavors additionally offered at any number of local markets and restaurants begging the question of when this small company will finally launch nationwide.

www.purpledooricecream.com

Posted in Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Milwaukee, Purple Door Ice Cream, Vacation, Wisconsin

September 4, 2014
12:40 PM
by: Uhockey

Karl Ratzsch’s, Milwaukee WI

Karl Ratzsch’s

Bread Basket with Buttered Rolls and Garlic Crisps

Potato Pancakes – Served with Apple Sauce and Sour Cream

Duck & Goose in Combination – One Half Goose Shank and One Quarter Roast Duck served with spatzel, Red Cabbage, Old Fashioned Dressing, and Natural Gravy

Viennese Apple Strudel

Bread Pudding with Bourbon Sauce

Returning to Milwaukee with my sights set on one of the city’s most storied dining spaces it was just moments after 11:30 that I entered Karl Ratzsch’s and quickly settled at a large table in a room beset on all sides with steins, antlers, porcelain, and painting from an era long past it would not be long before I was greeted by an elderly woman – a server potentially as old as the restaurant itself and as such a lovely historian, if not particularly exceptional in terms of expediting an order or keeping water glasses full. Unapologetically resting on a menu of German classics, many present on the menu for greater than 40 years, it was largely with my order pre-planned that I sat down with a mix of local businessmen and tourists alike and with a basket of soft rolls atop large croutons studded with garlic to whet my appetite it would not be long before my first course arrived, a duo of $8 potato pancakes proving thin and crisp, though admittedly a touch oily for such a steep tariff while applesauce proved no better than the stuff from a jar. Moving next to things more interesting, a dinner-only item prepared at my request during lunch, it was with wide eyes that I was greeted by the “Duck & Goose in Combination” and requesting buttery spatzel in place of wild rice I’d be remiss to say which of the plate’s five parts was best – the crispy skinned shank proving moist yet lean while duck was gamey and rich, each tender morsel falling from the bone and melding perfectly with sage-tinged stuffing in a thick gravy that was savory but not ‘salty’ in the least. At this point already anticipating dessert despite the substantial day of eating ahead it was in a duo of items from the tableside platter that I decided to invest and with each item served piping hot from the kitchen suffice it to say that no matter how “famous” (and delicious) the flaky puff pastry surrounding apple and spice was it simply could not compare to the bourbon soaked ‘bread,’ a veritable poundcake already laced with butter yet more than capable of soaking up plenty of sauce…the rest eaten with a spoon while still warm on the plate.

RECOMMENDED: Duck and Goose in Combination, Bread Pudding, Spatzel.

AVOID: Potato Pancakes are too oily and the bread basket is simply so-so, the later served gratis but not particularly enthralling none the less.

TIP: Offering a more limited menu at lunch than at dinner, those interested in dinner-only items are advised to call the restaurant in advance – my request for the goose requesting no deposit and served with no delay save for that of the leisurely service, an issue not particularly limited to my table and something the ‘business lunch’ crowd may want to keep in mind if there are any constraints of time.

http://www.karlratzsch.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Bread Pudding, Dessert, Food, Karl Ratzsch’s, Milwaukee, Vacation, Wisconsin

September 4, 2014
9:06 AM
by: Uhockey

Daisy Café and Cupcakery, Madison WI

Daisy Café and Cupcakery

Bottomless Coffee

French Toast Strata (eggs, cream cheese, bread cubes, maple syrup) with oven roasted potatoes and fruit

Morning Bun

Lennie Small – Chocolate Bacon Bunny Face on Maple Buttercream Frosting, Baked Bean Cake with Coffee Filling

Carrot-Walnut Cake with Cinnamon Cream Cheese Frosting

Scarlett O’Hara – Buttermilk Hoopskirt Frosting on Red Velvet Cake with Pecan Filling

Santiago – Sea Salted Toffee Scale in Caramel Buttercream Frosting on Caramel Banana Cake with Banana Pudding Filling

Following up 4&20 with a few more pastries for the road the last stop on a recent trip to Madison was Daisy Café and Cuppcakery, a kitschy spot on Atwood Avenue where neither cuisine nor customer service experienced in-store was particularly remarkable, though ‘back-to-school’ themed cupcakes would later save the day. Undoubtedly a spot for locals with the former part of the phrase ‘shabby-chic’ best describing the décor it was to a luke-warm greeting from the restaurant’s lone server that I was greeted on entry and invited to seat myself that was precisely what I did, a minimal amount of effort expelled in re-filling both tepid coffee and water making me wish these things, too, were do-it-yourself. Eventually allowed to order, a pair of two-tops already well into their meals apparently too much for one to handle, it would not be long before my pastry arrived and proving far less impressive than the standard set by 4&20 most of the morning bun was discarded, a similar situation occurring in the strata – a mundane bellybomb of flavorless bread soaked in eggs with only the slightest bit of sweetness to be found. Utterly disappointed in the experience thus far it was only the presence of a man I presume to be the owner at the register and his interest in my Interpol T-shirt that prevented me from walking away with empty hands but after our short conversation I couldn’t help but invest in a few cupcakes, the carrot cake a bit heavy handed but all three of the filled $3.00 specials showing great flavors and innovation amidst cakes of a delicate crumb.

RECOMMENDED: With the Scarlett O’Hara expectedly delicious it was actually the Lennie Small that shined brightest of the group, the smoky baked bean base melding well with the coffee cream as bacon amidst frosting delivered a sweet and salty finish.

AVOID: Admittedly preferring sweet to savory at breakfast I thought the strata was awful, and absolutely nothing like French Toast.

TIP: Open at 8:00am and featuring an “Award Winning” egg sandwich I’ve been told by others, including a server at dinner in Milwaukee, that not only is service usually better, but that the egg sandwich really is “that good.” Your Mileage May Vary.

http://daisycafeandcupcakery.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, cupcakes, Daisy Café and Cupcakery, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Madison, Pork, Vacation, Wisconsin

September 4, 2014
7:23 AM
by: Uhockey

4 & 20 Bakery & Cafe, Madison WI

4&20 Bakery & Cafe

Blackberry Scone

Cranberry Orange Scone

Morning Bun

Cinnamon Walnut Streusel Coffee Cake

Big Ol’ Oreo

Raspberry Bread French Toast – Raspberry Compote, Orange Curd, Local Raspberries, Struesel, house whipped cream

With a return trip to Milwaukee set to land me at lunch by noon it was after another early morning run that I showered, packed my bags, and headed out into the suddenly rainy weather for the first of two breakfasts – my first stop at 4&20 Bakery & Café, the small shop on North 4th Street sprung from a duo of L’Etoile alumni. Cozy and clean with modern décor borrowing from the CB2 catalogue it was just as the doors unlocked at seven o’clock that I made my way in and with nearly every pastry still warm from the oven a sizable order was placed, one item requiring kitchen preparation while the some were started on at a small table with the rest saved for upcoming drive. Obviously benefitted by an early morning arrival with a full selection of fresh pastry it was in a duo of scones that my tasting began and featuring a soft crumb far more “American” than most Brits would prefer I’ll simply say that in this case I fully support the stars and stripes, each buttery bite only lightly sweetened with berries allowed to shine. Moving on to a golden morning bun tightly wound about a springy center of cinnamon with more than enough sugar to spare and next to coffee cake that literally melted on the tongue it was finally here that my entrée arrived and with house-made raspberry bread rendered crisp by custard plus a hot pan my tastebuds swooned, a duo of fruits dueling for center stage while streusel added a bit of crunch. Taking halves of each scone to the car along with chocolate wafers sandwiching smooth cream it was perhaps my lone regret that I did not order more – the “World Peace” cookie, Blueberry Pie, and Oat Fudge bar all appearing tempting as well.

RECOMMENDED: Everything I ordered. Probably a lot of other things, as well – the French Toast and Morning Bun amongst the best of each I’ve tasted to date.

AVOID: N/A.

TIP: Located adjacent to a school zone with strict speed limits and substantial traffic those familiar with local roads would be best to take a different route rather than follow the GPS during school hours, a parade of students crossing streets on foot delaying my arrival by nearly 20 minutes.

http://4and20bakery.com/

Posted in 4 & 20 Bakery, 4 & 20 Bakery & Cafe, 4&20 Bakery, 4&20 Bakery & Cafe, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Madison, Vacation, Wisconsin

September 3, 2014
8:14 PM
by: Uhockey

L’Etoile, Madison WI

L’Etoile

Sanguine Spritz – Deer County Montmorency Cherry Juice and L’Etoile Orgeat Syrup

Summer Vacation Fizz – Fresh housemade limeade and strawberry topped with charged thyme fizz

Local Beet with Fennel Pollen and Goat Cheese Cream

Red Pepper Gazpacho with buttered croutons and basil oil

House made rolls with local unsalted butter

Cape Cod Grilled Scallops – Corn, Hen of the Woods, Charred Scallion Vinaigrette

La Belle Farms Foie Gras Ganache – Apricots, Mustard Seeds, Peach Strawberry Jus, Brioche

Neah Bay Sablefish – Porcini Cream, Dried Veal, Bok Choy

Blue Valley Gardens Duck Breast – Beets, Red Mustard Greens, Cocoa Nibs, Lavender Jus

Pinn Oak Ridge Lamb Loin – Borlotti Beans, Roasted Peppers, Lamb Tongue, Swiss Chard, Rosemary Jus

Three Month Pleasant Ridge Reserve – Hash Brown, Grey Shallot, Blackberry

Barnard Donut Peach Sorbet – Cinnamon Sugar Beignets

Caramel Corn, Blackberry Gelee, Blackberry Truffle

Considered by many to be the best restaurant in Madison, and by some to be the most elegant dining experience in the state, I’d be lying if I stated L’Etoile wasn’t a large part of the reason why I decided to drive to Wisconsin and after a rather pleasant experience at Graze that afternoon it was just minutes past 7:00pm that I again entered the doors of 1 S. Pinckney Street, a table set for one at the restaurant’s center mine for the night. Toqued by Chef Tory Miller and similarly focused on locally sourced proteins and produce as the space next door it was once more that I found myself seated amidst floor-to-ceiling windows but with the capitol now illuminated and tables clad in white linen the mood was decidedly different, the majority of other diners clearly celebrating special events as any number of candle-lit desserts emerged from the kitchen throughout the night. Offered in two formats, prix fixe or tasting, it was without hesitation that I opted to enjoy L’Etoile’s signature experience and although service was a bit off-kilter as my captain often interrupted me to repeat descriptions of plates already well presented it was without a single flaw in execution that each plate arrived, the flavorless house-bread and ice-cubes of butter a lone exception to the rule. Starting off with the first of two elegant mocktails as a canapé and an amuse whetted the palate it was after a bit of delay that my first course arrived but with the thinly sliced scallops finding even more sweetness in late season corn atop an anchor of mushrooms and bright tomatoes one could hardly complain, a textbook terrine of foie gras melting into a sweet, rich soup quick to follow on its heels. With another short stoppage between plates it was onward to flaky sablefish with crispy skin atop earthy mushroom puree that the meal progressed and rounding out savories with a rosy strip of duck amidst pleasant aromatics followed by a thick cut of lamb atop early winter beans cooked to a cream-like consistency not one of the five plates would prove anything short of stellar, a thin wedge of cheese no less impressive when plated against crispy potatoes and aromatic onions tempered by house-made jam. Admittedly coveting several of the desserts listed in the prix fixe and almost requesting a supplemental course (or three) it was mostly with a mind on the late hour and another full day to come that I showed some restraint and with two brioche beignets arriving alongside no less than four presentations of peach I perfectly satisfied, the trio of mignardises a final send-off with the fruit-filled truffle stealing the show from fresh popped corn lacquered in caramel that was also quite good.

RECOMMENDED: Offering a seasonal experience I’ll simply say that nothing but the bread was less than excellent, Chef Miller showing a particularly strong skillset with fibrous items like mushrooms, beans, and assorted local greens.

AVOID: The bread that night was dreadful while the butter, particularly given the state’s dairy industry, was an insipid, icy block.

TIP: Featuring one of the most innovative mocktail lists I’ve seen to this day even those not wishing to imbibe will be impressed by the drink menu at L’Etoile, most of the options featuring seasonal fruits and house-made elixirs or bitters with a multitude of techniques employed in their craft.

http://www.letoile-restaurant.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, L'Etoile, Madison, Tasting Menu, Vacation, Wisconsin

September 3, 2014
4:19 PM
by: Uhockey

Forequarter, Madison WI

Forequarter

Coffee Egg Cream – Cold Brew Dogwood Coffee, Cream, Honey, Lemon, Egg White (replaced by Cold Brew Dogwood Coffee)

Goat Sausage with Crispy Baguette, Mustard, and Olives

Galantine of Poussin stuffed with cabbage and almonds – Mustard Greens, Pickles, and Olives

Caramelized Carrot Cavatelli and Roasted Carrots with Carrot Top Pesto and Parmigiano Reggiano

Malt Ice Cream with Crushed Potato Chips, Crystalized Kumquats, White Chocolate Crisp, and Hot Fudge

Ostensibly a sequel to the oft-lamented Underground Kitchen with a meat heavy menu featuring daily specials from Madison’s heralded Underground Butcher it was for a few pre-dinner bites that I sat down at a tiny two-top at Forequarter and although my pending reservation at L’Etoile would indeed limit my order I’d be hard pressed to say which experience was more impressive. Without doubt a trendy space, heavily wooded with tiled ceilings and taxidermy, it was just after 5:30 that I entered the dimly lit dining room and with the bar already buzzing as several tables dined on charcuterie it would not be long before a menu was in hand and selections were made, the service proving exemplary in both keeping my water glass full and presenting each plate with ample descriptions of sourcing as well as technique. Unfortunately beginning the night on a sour note, literally, as lemon ruined an otherwise delicious sounding egg cream it was with the beverage stricken from the bill and replaced by cold brew that the meal was reset and although perhaps a bizarre ‘pairing’ for charcuterie I’m happy to say the bitter contrasts surprisingly worked – a board of boldly spiced goat sausage first perfuming my palate with smoky notes only to be followed by tender poultry imbued with earthy aromatics and extremely subtle brine. Realizing coffee would overwhelm my main course and thus cleansing my palate with pickles plus tiny olives that packed some seriously salinity it was onward to a vegetarian-friendly bowl of pasta that my meal progressed and with hues of purple, orange, and green in full effect the flavor was even more impressive than the visual display – each tender noodle rife with natural sweetness while butter-roasted Purple Knights and decisive pesto melded into a nutty, rich sauce. At this point unable – or at least unwilling – to eschew dessert it was between a plate of cookies or a housemade sundae that I was left to decide and deferring to my waitress as to which she preferred I opted for the later, fond childhood memories of the movie-snack “Whopper” brought forth with every bite.

RECOMMENDED: Any of the house charcuterie is likely to impress, but if the cavatelli and pickles are any indication these folks also know their way around produce – the dessert was pretty darn good, too.

AVOID: While your mileage may vary I was personally put off by the coffee egg cream, an otherwise lovely concept ruined by far too much acid – a flavor I dislike in my coffee in any form.

TIP: Currently obscured by construction with limited street parking there is a small lot just up the hill with great views of the lake, the lack of spots otherwise clearly not hurting business though as the restaurant was packed to capacity when I departed at 6:45.

http://forequartermadison.com/

Posted in Coffee, Dessert, Food, Forequarter, Ice Cream, Madison, Vacation, Wisconsin

September 3, 2014
2:46 PM
by: Uhockey

Ian’s Pizza, Madison WI

Ian’s Pizza

Mac n’ Cheese

Pork Sausage with Marinara with Mozzarella

As much an icon as any other dining establishment in Madison it was directly from Graze that I walked to 100 State Street and although already plenty saturated with cheese the legend of Ian’s Pizza quickly drew me in, only a few college kids filling the lively space at an off-hour while the service team bustled behind a long counter of pies and salads set before a kitchen where gas ovens gleamed. Large in size with pop-art styling provided by local artists and a promise to source locally as best as they can it was to a wide variety of pizzas-by-the-slice that my eyes immediately widened on approach and having heard rumors of their mac n’ cheese I quickly ordered a slice alongside one topped with marinara and mozzarella plus spicy sausage so that I might, too, try the red sauce. Reheated to order and served on paper plates much like any number of pizzerias back east it was perhaps ten minutes after paying the $8 tab that my order was up and taking a seat at one of the low, wooden tables I began with the signature, each cheddar-laden elbow noodle rendered just a touch chewy by the oven providing an excellent textural contrast to the crispy, charred crust. A bit less inspired by marinara that trended just a touch to sweet yet impressed by both the locally sourced sausage and mild, creamy mozz it was after only a few bites that I turned back to the macaroni and finishing the slice while leaving the rest of the other behind in order to save stomach space my curiosity was satisfied – were Ian’s in any number of US Cities it would undoubtedly be equally well praised as the best “New York Slice” in town.

RECOMMENDED: Mac ‘n Cheese.

AVOID: The marinara was too sweet for my tastes, though those seeking a true “New York Slice” like that of Patsy’s or John’s will likely be pleased.

TIP: Offering any number of seasonal specials plus combos and deals throughout the day savvy shoppers can likely spend far less on a meal than I did, though the oft lamented “99 cent slice” is thankfully nowhere to be found, likely because you can’t make a pizza this good with cheese and toppings that cheap.

Pizza for the people

Posted in Food, Ian's, Ian's Pizza, Madison, Pizza, Pork, Vacation, Wisconsin

September 3, 2014
11:54 AM
by: Uhockey

Graze, Madison WI

Graze

Charcuterie and Cheese – Carr Valley Mobay (sheep and goat), Hook’s 15-yr Cheddar (cow), Hook’s Little Boy Blue (cow), Willow Creek Pate de Campagne (Berkshire Pork, Chicken Liver, Cognac, Quatre Epices), Oxheart Farm’s Salt Cured Pork Culatello with Sauce Grebiche, Garlic Ciabatta, Fig Toast, Bread and Butter Pickles, Tomato Jam

Pork Buns – pork belly, pickled vegetables, hoisin

Fried Cesar’s Cheese Curds – vodka batter, house ranch

Soft Pretzel – sea salt, house mustards, Widmer’s cheese

Hickory Nut Bourbon-Caramel Pie

Located just steps from the capital and owned by the team behind L’Etoile, my dinner destination later that evening, it was to Graze that my lunch plans led me after a tour of Camp Randall Stadium and although expediting from the kitchen would prove oddly paced, at best, my meal in the sunbathed space left very little to be desired. Featuring a farm-fresh menu focused heavily on Wisconsin purveyors with floor-to-(20+foot)-ceiling windows offering wide views of the midday bustle outside it was near the rear of the restaurant that I opted for a shaded seat and with a menu of daily specials alongside several signatures a three-course meal of small plates was created, the service itself perfectly pleasant in offering up apologies for long delays from a kitchen that was dreadfully slow in preparing something as simple as a charcuterie board despite the restaurant being less than 1/3 full. Certainly not starving after a hearty breakfast it was after nearly thirty-five minutes that my selection of three cheeses and two meats with several house-made accoutrements arrived and with each item tallying $3-to-$3.50 aside from the ultra-aged cheddar I’ll simply say the additional $5 surcharge was entirely worthwhile, a sharp bite to the golden wedge better than any I tasted in England and just inching out the pate de Campagne for best thing on the pig-shaped board. Having mentioned issues with the kitchen I was unfortunately only a quarter into the charcuterie when my three hot plates arrived and setting aside the cold board with a bit of annoyance I found even more frustration with the overcooked pork belly, a limp and flavorless bao doing little to improve the flavor as pickled cabbage dominated each bite. Moving past the buns to things far superior it was next in Graze’s signature curds that I did partake and squeaky-as-hell with plenty of brine I greedily dipped each bite in ranch – a flavor I generally dislike adding an aromatic finish to each bite. No less impressed by a salty pretzel with delicate chew beneath a soft, golden top it was back to the charcuterie that I turned as plates were collected and opting for one of three desserts another long delay would transpire, the twenty minutes thankfully justified by a hot slice of pie loaded with nuts and molten caramel atop a crisp and buttery crust.

RECOMMENDED: Hook’s 15-year cheddar, Cheese curds, Hickory Nut Bourbon-Caramel Pie.

AVOID: Pork Buns, Parking in a time-limited space.

TIP: Clearly a favorite of locals and visitors I was happy to fill out a comment card dropped-off with the bill and much to my surprise an E-mail was received from Ms. Corinne Lake, PR & Outreach Assistant, just 24-hours later thanking me for my comments – a strong commitment to customer service and using such comments to improve the experience part of her response with no excuses made, a classy move to say the very least – the next time I’m in town the brunch chicken and waffles has my name all over it.

http://www.grazemadison.com/

Posted in Dessert, Food, Graze, Madison, Pork, Vacation, Wisconsin

September 3, 2014
8:23 AM
by: Uhockey

Batch Bakehouse, Madison WI

Batch Bakehouse

Carrot Cake Cupcake with Cream Cheese Frosting

Bourbon Pecan and Salted Caramel Danish

Strawberries and Cream Buttercake

Monkey Bread

Almond Croissant

Located at 1402 Williamson Street and as such a logical follow-up to breakfast at Lazy Janes it was a short walk in the sun to Batch Bakehouse and with a selection of pastries even more sizable than the place I’d just been it was with much hemming-and-hawing that selections were made, another five pastries joining leftovers from Lazy Janes in a smorgasbord of sweets to be consumed throughout the course of the day. Trending far more artisan than its nearby neighbor with French techniques infusing classics from the American cookbook and the bakers themselves acting as servers it was only after several questions that I eventually settled on an order far smaller than I should have liked and beginning my tasting at the small countertop with a moist carrot cake topped in tangy cream cheese I knew right away that none of this one was leaving the store – a similar sentiment shared by later samples, though each was indeed eaten only in part with the rest saved for a later day snack. Moving from cupcake to the only item that would prove the least bit dull, suffice it to say that monkey bread is found better elsewhere, but moving on to arching layers not the least bit burdened by frangipane beneath a shattering shell I’d be really surprised if a better almond croissant can be found in town. Admittedly a bit sugar-saturated at this point it was onward to the dense butter cake that I progressed and, although enthusiasts from the Show Me State may claim the rounded muffin to be unauthentic, the creamy texture was divine – a similar superlative soon to be lavished on the buttery Danish with flavors both savory and sweet to spare, a light smokiness from the baked bourbon tickling the palate as candied pecans crunched with each bite.

RECOMMENDED: Carrot Cake Cupcake, Bourbon Pecan and Salted Caramel Danish, Buttercake.

AVOID: Certainly not shabby, but not nearly as good as the one from a day earlier at Milwaukee’s Blue’s Egg I imagine the Monkey Bread would have been much better warm, an option unfortunately declined when I inquired as the restaurant lacks reheating capabilities.

TIP: Closed on Monday but open from 7am to 6pm the rest of the week with fresh items baked throughout the day those looking for good coffee can find Intelligentsia here, though with Wi-Fi unavailable those looking to get some work done while enjoying coffee and pastry would be wise to bring their own access.

http://batchbakehouse.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Croissant, cupcakes, Dessert, Food, Madison, Vacation, Wisconsin