Peach Sorbetto, Dark Chocolate Sorbetto, Pear and Gorgonzola Gelato, Ube Gelato, Vietnamese Coffee Gelato, Passion Fruit Cream Gelato, Rice Pudding Gelato, Cinnamon Roll Gelato, Crème Brulee Gelato, Peanut Butter Gelato, Tiramisu Gelato, Malted Milk Gelato, Dark Tart Cherry Gelato
Peanut Butter Gelato (small)
Vietnamese Coffee Gelato (small)
Rice Pudding Gelato, Cinnamon Roll Gelato (small)
Stepping away from a truly memorable meal at Le Cirque with family still chatting of a marvelous first day in Las Vegas a stop at Gelatology seemed almost prerequisite, and with owner Desyree Alberganti proving the consummate hostess a baker’s dozen samples again showed the creamiest of bases imbued with exquisite flavors, the new soda program and deep fried dough doused in powdered sugar helping to cleanse palates between bites while pastries again beckoned inside the windowside case.
Obviously continuing to offer signatures as yet untasted by my visitors, the Peanut Butter, Coffee, and Dark Chocolate all impressing them as much as it has locals for years, new innovations including Malted Milk, Ube, and Dark Tart Cherry all proved equally enthralling with three cups ordered in the smallest of sizes only because little stomach capacity was left after a long day of eating, the blend of cinnamon roll and rice pudding a ‘best of both worlds’ sort of pairing that saw each complimented by the other with a flavor that came across like a Snickerdoodle cookie with more subtlety.
FIVE STARS: Still unblemished after tasting nearly one hundred flavors I remain convinced that although I still favor ice cream there is no other Gelato I’d rather enjoy than that made by Desyree.
RECOMMENDED: Enter, Sample, Order whatever tastes best, then do it again next week.
AVOID: Doing it daily, though I do know a good endocrinologist…
TIP: Fried dough is not yet on the menu, but much like the gelatos and sorbettos the pastry selection changes day-to-day and an eye on Social Media will serve fans well…or induce daily cravings…or both.
White Chocolate Coffee, French Baguette, Bacon Cheddar, Pretzel, Rosemary with Salted and Unsalted Butter
La Framboise
Le Crabe – Maryland Blue Crab and Russian Osetra Caviar
Salade de Homard – “Le Cirque” Lobster & Avocado Salad, Black Truffle Vinaigrette
Declinaison de Tomates d’Êté – Tasting of Summer Tomatoes:Tomato Gazpacho, Gelee, Merengue, Croutons, “Tough Boy” Tomato à la Grecque, Feta, Kalamata Olives and Cucumbers
Tartare de Bœuf – Prime Beef Tenderloin Steak Tartare, Pomme Gaufrette, Caper Berries, Quail Egg, Fine Herb Salad, Pain de Cafe Chocolat
Les Saint Jacques – Seared Diver Scallop, Osetra Caviar, Creamy Lobster Bisque
La Sole Meunière – Dover Sole Meunière, Glazed Vegetables, Summer Herbs Bouquet, Warm Lemon Beurre Blanc
Les Risotto du Marché – Beet Risotto with Langoustines and Mascarpone
La Boule au Chocolat – Chocolate Ball: White Chocolate Ice Cream, Hazelnut Caramel Crunch
Lemon Vacherin – Passion Fruit, Meringue, Kiwi
Mignardises and Gourmandises
Take Home Chocolates
Convinced that Le Cirque had ascended to the top three dining experiences in Las Vegas under the toque of Wilfried Bergerhausen after a trio of visits since the 28 year old took over the kitchen in 2014 it was at the invitation of Ivo Angelov that my mother, aunt, and I sat down at a fountainside four-top on their first full day in Las Vegas, the five course tasting proving not only the best visit to the restaurant to date, but a meal on par with the best ever experienced with the people who raised me during the earliest years of my life.
Already having discussed the service and dining room, both on par with places garnering multiple Michelin Stars around the World, it was moments before six o’clock that posh seating was found waiting and with Ivo personally presenting several plates while the rest of the staff performed their tasks to make every table in the house feel like a VIP it was with Wilfried’s almost-signature Crabe that the meal began, this time presented with a smoky tableside show that further upped the ante as the Bellagio fountains danced outside, to-and-fro.
Having pre-selected a menu for the two ladies while giving the kitchen carte blanche to serve me whatever they felt was best, it was with items both seasonal and classic that second courses arrived, the lobster salad comprised of seven vegetables and a substantial bit of crustacean beneath the lightest kiss of acid while “Declinaison de Tomates d’Ête ” featured my aunt’s favorite ingredient in four variations, the cold soup absolutely vibrant as I scooped finely chopped beef atop one of the restaurant’s delectable house made breads.
Turning to sea life as classical tunes chimed amidst the big-top hung overhead it was in the safety of buttery scallops and bisque with a dollop of caviar that I entrusted Chef Bergerhausen to enthrall my somewhat fish-skeptical aunt and succeeding with flying colors both the Sole served to my mother and bright-pink risotto with snappy Langoustines served to myself were textbook in execution, the later served with a spoon of mascarpone and nuts made for mixing with each bite benefited in a very luxurious way.
Told that the chicken at Le Cirque was far more special than the average American bird it was after a short respite and conversation with Ivo as well as the Chef that meat-based entrees were presented, the yellow wine sauce and mushrooms playing brilliantly off the bird while pepper-crusted Tournedos of prime beef found balance amidst tomatoes and shallots plus potatoes on par with those of Robuchon, the “Contre-Filet de Bœuf Wagyu Japonais “ every bit as indulgent as the sum of its ingredients would suggest, an over-the-top plate in all the right ways.
No doubt anticipating desserts, a delightful duo of fruity palate cleansers served along a Lychee-leaning glass of dessert wine preceding the final round, it should be obvious to anyone visiting the restaurant that the melting chocolate sphere remains the tableside favorite, yet as much as my mother and aunt ooh’d and ahh’d over the white chocolate and hazelnuts it was actually the Vacherin “for two” that proved even more exquisite, the creamy top giving way to the flavors of smooth citrus, even the Passion Fruit proving far less sweet than in the hands of other pastry chefs as the crispy meringue offered a textural compliment.
FIVE STARS: Always a memorable meal with service that trumps even the temples of gastronomy named for triple-Michelin starred chefs, Le Cirque remains a true destination meal in a city with no lack, young Wilfried Bergerhausen perhaps the city’s greatest current kitchen talent.
RECOMMENDED: Whether one selects a tasting menu or a la carte, classics or seasonal inspiration, there is little that the team at Le Cirque can’t or won’t do well.
AVOID: Assuming that this place is too fancy or too expensive as the the service is highly adaptable to all styles while there are plenty of bargains to be found for those willing to enjoy the pre-theater menu or a few bites at the bar.
TIP: A whole new menu is ready to launch soon, even the recently launched Prestige Menu reportedly to see a substantial overhaul from a team never willing to rest on its laurels or past success.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Bourbon Fudge Brownie – Brown Butter Bacon Ice Cream
Glazed Donut Bread Pudding – Three Rum Caramel, Vanilla Crème Anglaise
WineBerry Shortcake – Lavender Cream, Streusel
With the recent passing of Kerry Simon an unfortunate end to the career of one of Las Vegas’ most important chefs it was on a Tuesday afternoon that my family sat down to lunch at Carson Kitchen, and although Cory Harwell has long been the brain behind most of the downtown restaurant’s creations the late summer menu showed the kitchen firing on all cylinders, not one of sixteen plates failing to wow.
Served a number of classics, plus a trio of drinks from which the smoky Bee’s Knees was the best version of the cocktail tasted to date, suffice it to say the bacon jam, green beans, brownie, and mac & cheese all remain reference standard while a few newer items show the sort of creativity not often associated with gastropubs or upscale comfort cuisine, the spicy sloppy joe finding levity in citrus aioli while the Fried Green tomatoes give Yardbird competition for best in the city when crowned in sweet crab ravigote.
Seeing Harwell’s Southern roots in succotash that took a Mexican Street-corn turn through the addition of Cojita, as well as the clever gumbo flatbread with spicy pork and gator finding their foil in pickled okra I’d have gladly eaten like a bowl of popcorn, attention should equally be paid to the supple poached Halibut and a slab of pork belly glazed in sticky stone fruit, the former best described as taking the flaky fish and a wine pairing together in one bite, the results far better than anyone might think.
Disappointed that the seasonal banana pudding has gone into hibernation, but happy to taste an equally competent jar-dessert in the form of mixed berry shortcake that tasted faintly of Merlot amidst lavender and buttery streusel I was additionally happy to find the Bread Pudding far less sugar-laden than prior, the whole meal made better by a soundtrack heavy in 80s-era rock and service that performs the difficult trio of fun, educated, and professional.
FIVE STARS: Originally unsold on Carson Kitchen being as good as the critics have suggested it finally took a visit with persons less culinarily inclined than myself to truly make me appreciate the greatness of Harwell’s work and Simon’s vision; food for ‘everyone’ that offers enough skill and quality to keep food nerds and snobs equally engaged.
RECOMMENDED: The Bees Knees, Halibut, Tempura Green Beans, Bacon Jam, Mac & Cheese, FGT Sliders.
AVOID: Though none is listed in the ingredients, the Brewer’s Fix came across quite ‘beery’ to me.
TIP: Fall menu launches in early November with Harwell’s new concept not too far off.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Following Bruce Kalman on Twitter and Facebook for months while watching the menu at Union evolve each week to accommodate whatever was found fresh amongst Southern California’s bounty of farmer’s markets it was finally on a Monday evening that three of us sat down at the end of the bar in Pasadena, the Chef himself in house overseeing the kitchen amidst a travel schedule that had recently seen him bounce from coast to coast.
Considered by many to be a destination sort of meal, the distance from various parts of Los Angeles quite substantial when accounting for the traffic induced by the city’s continuous urban sprawl, it was just moments after opening that our party arrived for a 5:00pm reservation, the restaurant filled to capacity for the meal’s whole duration with service that was professional yet friendly, the suggestions spot on and beverages kept brimming.
Truly a menu where nothing sounds unappealing, the biggest challenge being to decide on which items one would least regret taking a pass, it was no doubt on pastas that the order was focused and with all dozen items inclusive of complimentary meringues showing a great degree of technical skill benefitted by top notch ingredients one would be hard pressed to name a better farm-to-fork Italian concept anywhere within two-hundred miles…or potentially anywhere in the nation.
Proudly displaying the books of respected Italian Chefs behind the bar while paying homage to Alice Waters with signage at the front and back of the space, the meal began with a large bowl of housemade cheese simply dressed in garlic and olive oil alongside costini, the richness well balanced by a plate of grilled peaches atop leaves of spinach gilded with honey and lightly draped in lardo.
Requesting that plates be sent out slowly it was in round two that the meal really began to sing, for as much as I love duck confit when paired to something as sweet as figs it was the creamy bowl of polenta that immediately stole the spotlight, the foraged mushrooms rendered all the more aromatic by herbs while a splash of acid helped to enliven each bite.
Confident that secondi are probably quite good, but far more interested in Kalman’s handmade pastas which lean toward nontraditional shapes and sauces that challenge conventional norms, it was in a quartet of options that appetites were invested, the guitar-cut spaghetti requested to be light in chiles with little more than tomatoes and garlic rendering the al dente noodles bold and aromatic without being the slightest bit wet or heavy.
No doubt working well with the bounty of both land and sea it was next in black Garganelli that a great deal of balance was found, the touch of citrus offsetting rich lobster and truffles while lean rabbit sausage crumbled amidst double-tubed Casarecce, the rags of Lasagnette supple and dainty draped over mushrooms and rosemary.
Somewhat limited in dessert offerings, but raved for the olive oil cake and a budino that was calling out loud, it was both of these items that rounded out the meal along with two scoops of ice cream – the chocolate raspberry rich while citrus was refreshing, eaten in that order best as a palate cleanser prior to toothsome toasty cake and hazelnut chocolate pudding that by itself might justify a drive to Pasadena.
Long debated as a brunch or lunch location given the Echo Park location north of DTLA, it was finally on a Monday afternoon en route to Pasadena that a stop was made at Italian stalwart Masa, the rumors of best deep-dish west of Chicago proven to my family though I might contest it is better than any tasted aside from Burt’s Place.
Cozy in design and certainly less commercial that the Uno’s, Gino’s, and Giordano’s of the world it was just after 1:00pm that a small table at Masa was procured and with black & white movies playing beneath 50’s serenade the “thirty-ish” minute wait for pizza was bridged by witty banter from our server plus a plate of warm housemade bread, two appetizers ordered and soon to be on the way.
Generally avoiding restaurant salads due to daily consumption of such things during workdays back home it was on the server’s recommendation that the compressed Manchego version was nonetheless selected, the composition of flavors and textures both quite dynamic while two small Suppli were a bit underwhelming, the buffalo mozzarella smooth but a bit lost amidst the flavors of salty Parmesan and acidic tomato sauce.
Receiving the pie a mere twenty-one minutes after placing the order, a benefit of arriving after the early lunch rush, those familiar with Chicago-Style will know that even the proportions a ‘small’ were still large enough to feed a family of four, the crust robust and buttery while sweet sausage was awash in spices, the lightly tanned mushrooms helping to ground the plethoric amounts of cheese and sauce.
Perhaps as well known for desserts as it is for pizza, the bread pudding made from a mixture of housemade croissants, it was with a rich round of nutty carrot cake topped by a big dollop of cream cheese frosting that the tasting commenced, and waiting a few minutes to let the wedge of custard soaked croissants cool down the first bites of the restaurant’s signature sweet sent heads spinning, the melted ribbons of chocolate adding even more richness to a dish already not for lack in a pool of caramel sauce.
Located in a tiny storefront on North Fairfax,the limited seating and lack of WiFi perhaps intended to chase away those not put off by snark and a soundtrack that more closely resembles atonal noise than well orchestrated sounds, it was to a small lineup of pastries that I was greeted on entry to CoFax and with servers appearing exasperated to explain the unlabeled options, let alone make suggestions, it was with items bagged and pictures taken that I made my way to the street, first bites of fluffy Honey Sea Salt befitting a friend’s appraisal of ‘best’ in town, though nothing that followed even came close.
Perhaps a fault of my fondness for cake it was into the rainbow sprinkled vanilla option that teeth were sunk after the yeasted honey ring, but with a gritty sort of texture that reminded me of coffee cake not particularly light in oil the rest was soon discarded, the cinnamon crumb cake really no different aside from the spices while a rich chocolate version at least offered a smoother texture beneath glaze that was bittersweet and undoubtedly high grade.
Recommended by a friend whose opinions I trust and fronted by former Gjelina Pastry Chef Nicole Rucker who started the program in late April of 2015, it was with expectations that were perhaps too high that I forked over $11.25 for four smallish samples, the results neither as good or as interesting as Donut Man, Colorado, Primos, California, or Stan’s despite charging nearly twice the price.
Ice Cream – Brown Sugar Apple Pie, Caramel Macchiato, Lemon Lavender, Orange Limeade, Honey Honeycomb, Peanut Butter Chocolate Banana, Raspberry Champagne Sorbet, Nutella Ferrero Rocher, Salted Chocolate Pretzel, Milk and Cereal, Brownie a la Mode, York Peppermint
Earl Grey Pie – Chocolate Ganache and Callebaut Chocolate Pieces / Reese’s Peanut Butter Chocolate Pie – Chocolate Mousse Cream, Peanut Butter Bottom, Light Cream / Strawberry Pistachio Pie – Strawberry Cream Mousse, Pistachio Cream, Light Cream
Invited in by PR despite living in Las Vegas it was on the premise of tasting and ‘giving feedback’ that I agreed to stop by Atticus Coffee & Dessert on the way out of LA, but with the owner named Iris and her young assistant entirely unprepared neither the experience nor the offerings provided much incentive for praise, the slivers of pie so small that they were difficult to differentiate while the ice creams ranged from a sweet honey-honeycomb and a convincing take on Cereal Milk to artificial tasting Peanut Butter Chocolate Banana alongside Lavender-laden lemon best described as ‘bathroom fresh.’
Apparently the second location of a spot originally opened on Pico, the options here more limited while seating both indoors and out are plagued by pop-music playing a bit too loud, Atticus promotes a philosophy of handmade craftsmanship with no preservatives, artificial flavorings, colors, or added sweeteners but with prices trending far higher than portions or presentations should dictate the “bang for the buck” is immediately in question, no less than a half-dozen local locations for ice cream far superior while Republic or Pie or Pie Hole quality the $5.25 petite-pies most certainly are not.
Creamy Polenta with brown sugar, strawberries, figs, nuts
Malted Cornmeal Pancakes with Cherry Compote
Red Velvet Pancakes with Cream Cheese Icing
Pan Toast – cinnamon rolls and croissants soaked in custard and fried, with strawberries and strawberry syrup
First visited many years ago, in a larger location far from the cozy confines of 8146 West 3rd, it was with all but one member of the previous crew that breakfast was enjoyed at Doughboys Cafe & Bakery, the sweets retaining the high quality remembered from Rice Krispy Treats Pancakes and Red Velvet Cake though “Creamy Polenta” was actually clumpy with flavor trending quite bland.
Tightly spaced, but comfortable on a Monday morning with several folks populating the outdoor patio as only one other table was occupied inside, it was expectedly to very attentive service that our booth was treated throughout the meal and although eschewing pastries due to subsequent planned dining the case up front did look quite delectable, the ‘world famous’ red velvet now joined by cookies, brownies, bars, and scones ranging from savory to sweet.
Offering a take-away counter that never saw business during the course of our hour long stay it was with bold coffee in hand that approximately fifteen minutes passed before all four plates were delivered, the housemade compotes and infused syrups requested in order to avoid the Log Cabin bottle seen sitting on a white kitchen shelf.
Going part savory, though everything served was eventually dressed in sugar or syrup, first bites of the enormous bowl of cornmeal proved rather uninspiring though the fruit was quite fresh, a far better bite found amidst toothsome malted cornbread fried up like a pancake, the cherry compote used on one half while melted butter and honey was drizzled atop the rest.
Onward to dessert-type-breakfasts, no stop at Doughboys complete without sampling something dyed bright red, the flavor of the restaurant’s signature item was replicated spot-on by a fluffy stack of pancakes, the “Pan Toast” crisp on the exterior with a soft-set center not unlike bread pudding, a topping of strawberries both whole and extracted complimenting notes of cinnamon without overwhelming the mellow custard base.
Iconic for its signage, Randy’s Donuts had long been a place of interest, and staying close to LAX during a recent visit to the city of Los Angeles it was just after 7am on s Monday that I finally stopped in – the drive-in absolutely jammed-packed while a walk-up window offered faster access, the server’s limited grasp of English one source of frustration while a cash-only policy presented yet another…and that was even before tasting the lackluster fried dough.
Not particularly a place to visit after dark, though 24/7 hours are offered for those looking to get their fix, it was only after standing back to peruse the menu that the window was approached and after requesting a Buttermilk bar thrice to no avail it was with an even half-dozen that I walk away annoyed, first bites of the Honey Whole Wheat tinged with an odd aftertaste that saw the rest left for the birds, a similar funk pervasive in the oily apple fritter that suffered the same fate.
Faring a bit better in raised options, the base of a cruller actually quite nice despite chocolate frosting that was thickly applied and clearly low grade, best bites were surprisingly found in the simple glazed circle while the old fashioned could have used a bit more sour cream taste, the “buttermilk” crumb cake coming up dry and insipid – unworthy of the cost, calories, or stomach space.
Owned by the team behind Huckleberry and Rustic Canyon with the newly launched Ester’s Wine Bar located directly across the hall, it was alongside friends old and new that dinner was had at Bryant Ng’s Cassia, the former Spice Table chef showing off an innovative approach to modern Asian flavors in a lively upscale environment not unlike the Brasseries found throughout Paris and parts of France’s South.
Low-lit and up-tempo with a patio for those desiring to dine amidst Santa Monica’s ever-pleasant outdoors, it was at a large round table in view of both the raw bar and fiery grill that our group of five was sat and greeted by a charming server happy to describe each item at length a baker’s dozen plates were selected, not one failing to offer a good depth of flavor, not to mention sharable potions and a favorable bang for the buck.
Immersed in conversation as mixed drinks and sooth Vietnamese coffee arrived it was mere moments before plates began to trickle from the kitchen, the snail spread thankfully allowing the mollusks brine to peak out amidst the lemongrass while jellyfish chicken salad displayed a great diversity of tastes and an even greater number of tantalizing textures.
More than a little enamored by sweet-meets salty Kaya toast that far outshines the version at Mudhen Tavern it was onward to an enormous chawanmushi that tasting progressed, the double-dose of umami offered by both mushrooms and uni perfuming the palate while the custard itself came across smooth and silky.
Hitting a small snag with pot au feu that was delicious, albeit difficult to share and serve given the size of the bowl versus the bone, but recovering quickly with rice noodles adrift in a spicy seafood soup that challenged but didn’t overwhelm my general sensitivity to such things, it was in charcuterie fried rice alongside buttered corn and a complex bowl of tender cod that savories wrapped up, another coffee ordered up en route to one of each dessert.
Recently swapping up the sweets, but retaining the Easternized-French focus that seems to have been present from the start, it should be obvious that the pudding was essentially just a thicker version of the drink already in hand, and although only it and the chocolate-banana pie were particularly well matched to the flavors of coffee it was citrus soaked tart and lemongrass ice cream amidst fried choux that actually proved best, the napoleon unfortunately the victim of too much cream and not enough crunch.
Duck Egg Pie – Pancetta, Panna, Potato, Rosemary, Mozzarella, Parmesan
Bucatini – Fennel Sausage, Black Kale, Parmesan, Bread Crumbs
Warm Cinnamon Coffee Cake – Whipped Crème Fraiche
Brown Sugar Pudding – Blackberries, Cinnamon Crumble
Suggested by friends I trust as one of the best new spots in a rapidly developing Manhattan Beach dining scene, it was just after 2pm that parking was found in the garage behind Love & Salt and although the brunch menu shows signs of promise from the kitchen both the service and the website’s false advertising made for a somewhat lackluster overall experience.
Arriving at an off-hour, the frequently-filled space less than a quarter full when we walked in the back door, it was nonetheless in a cramped corner that our trio was seated – the brunch menu presented while the dinner options officially don’t begin until 5pm despite the website suggesting three o’clock on Sundays, plans of bridging the two services immediately discarded while service from a lazy beach bunny also saw the kitchen shut down before pancakes could be ordered as part of dessert, neither an excuse nor apology offered once.
Nicely appointed, with a bar at one side and seating on the other plus an open kitchen at the back, the room is bathed in sunlight from floor to ceiling windows that look out onto Manhattan Beach Boulevard up front, it was with a substantial delay after menus were perused that orders were placed and treated first to three pre-made pastries a high degree of skill was immediately evident, the buttery English Muffins setting a new standard for bread I generally find boring as both Zucchini bread and Ciabatta were crispy and excellent, all the better when slathered in jam and Nutella.
Not offering several of the signature pastas at brunch, and confirmed by a manager who sat chatting on his cellphone as service struggled that they would not be ready until 5:00pm when asked, it was to three alternative savories that attention was turned and although the porchetta proved far more salty than fans of the crispy roast would expect the texture of the meat was absolutely exemplary, the nicely charred pizza proving far more balanced as potatoes, herbs, and yolk helped to offset the pancetta.
Impressed by the al dente strands of Bucatini that offered subtle resistance to the tooth alongside housemade sausage and a bit too much bitter kale as buttery breadcrumbs helped to enliven the lot it was after repeated efforts to flag down our server that we discovered the kitchen had stopped, but promised that “brunch desserts” were still available the pre-made bombolini left behind by a table adjacent were ignored in favor of coffee cake and a smooth brown sugar budino, the former’s quality similar to that of breads prior while the latter is something worth getting out of bed for, service notwithstanding.
Traveling from the beach to Anaheim for an afternoon matchup between the Angels and the Astros it was mere moments after 10am that street parking was allocated in downtown Santa Ana, a reservstion at Chapter One thankfully secured a few weeks in advance as the restaurant was soon to be filled by a football loving crowd for the NFL’s opening weekend.
Missed out on during a previous visit to the rapidly gentrifying Orange County community as a result of a power outage that essentially shut down the city it was again after some technical difficulties that our booking was found and seated at a large four-top to the left of the bar it was mere moments before one of several jersey-clad servers stopped by with menus and glasses of water, the bad facial hair seemingly requisite for all males employed by “the modern local” while man-buns and scraggly ponytails were no more rare.
Featuring a menu and cocktail list befitting the scene as well as the clientele it was with little effort that an order of whimsical upscale-brunch classics was composed, the Scotch Egg arriving cool the core but nicely complimented with a light salad and savory bacon jam, the smear of fruity mustard helping to offset the heft while a cup of repeatedly refilled coffee was better suited to entrees and desserts, the lightly roasted beans rich with figgy notes and far superior to what one would expect from standard cafe stuff.
Eschewing savories in favor of menu’s trio of sweets it was with waffles, pancakes, and French toast that the morning would progress, and although a first glimpse of the “Elvis Live from Brussels” had my eyes thinking Eggo the waffles were actually perfectly crisp with a soft center wrapped around excellent accoutrements, the French Toast pudding-soft when graced with pure maple syrup while the pancakes were golden and fluffy, though not really benefited by fruit that could have been better utilized if added before griddling.
Told that desserts at Chapter One are not to be missed it was to a recently updateded menu that attention was next turned, and treading lightly after early morning donuts with more eating plans for after the ballgame it was in two options that remaining appetites were invested, the “Monkey Balls” a bit too oily to be enjoyed completely while the cleverly named Napoleon was in all ways more inspired, the use of phyllo dough perhaps not as traditional as some may like it but the light cream, honey buttered fruit, and bourbon caramel making such qualms almost entirely irrelevant.
Long heralded as a destination for locals and tourists visiting the Southern California beach communities, it was en route to Anaheim that an early Sunday led us to The Donuttery, and arriving just after 8am after a long morning run a cornucopia of options delivered on all the promises, an even twelve selected as the result of a “cheaper by the dozen” discount with only one option proving less than impressive.
Small in size, though limited seating is available, The Donuttery is a labor intensive sort of spot with several toppings, glazes, and frostings offered atop iterations that include raised, cake, filled, and fancy yet without trending too far from tradition the oldschool feel of the space is bolstered by cheerful customer service, the donuts all carefully boxed as patron-after-patron trickled through the door.
Cutting the tape and snapping a few photos before the tasting commenced, it was progressing from light to rich that the sampling took place, and with a maple frosted buttermilk bar offering a soft center with just a touch of sour the opening bites showed good technique and no hint of greasiness, a theme that extended to a fruit-rich fritter that was thankfully offered in sizes both large and small.
More than happy to see carrot cake stuffed with raisin and nuts beneath rich cream cheese it was next in a supple old fashioned that teeth were sunk, the results on par with the best in the nation while the fluffy butterfly was awash in cinnamon beneath a lacquer of maple as toasted almonds helped to mellow the sweetness of the rather substantial knot.
Continuing the spicecake trend with an apple cider donut topped in buttercream before hitting a bump in the road with an exceedingly artificial tasting pink ring described as “strawberry,” The Donuttery quickly regained footing with the tartness of lemons over soft blueberries and salty caramel over devil’s food that offered the best bite in the store.
Rounding out the morning with two filled donuts and two more featuring a cocoa base it should go without saying that both the red velvet and marshmallow topped S’mores were more than a little indulgent, but what was truly unexpected was just how stuffed both the whipped cream bun and PB&J concoction were, the former featuring an unsurpassed lightness without being oversweetened while the later balanced out the internal sweetness with the natural flavor of salt and smooth roasted nuts.
Located in the upscale bungalow-come-lodge style space on West Washington Boulevard that previously housed Waterloo & City, Brian Dunsmoor’s recently launched Hatchet Hall seems to have picked up the hype and style that originally surrounded Hart and the Hunter, and with a small plates menu focused on well-sourced proteins plus the season’s best produce the kitchen is turning out some of the city’s most enthralling farm-to-table cuisine while the crowd itself may be best described as a balance of local hipsters and those looking to ‘see and be seen.’
Larger in size than one would guess from the lot, a two-weeks-in-advance reservation policy rounded out by a communal walk-in table caddy-corner to the well appointed bar while those fancying al fresco dining are invited to enjoy plates on the patio, the arrival of our party of five originally saw hostess attempt to squeeze us in at a four-top on the cusp of the outdoors, but refusing in favor of the communal space an equal amount of cramming was attempted, the removal of two chairs proving a much needed resolution.
Known for the wine list, but also serving up stylish cocktails invigorated by house-infused spirits and several homemade bitters it was with drink orders placed that a young waitress dressed in jeans and a classic rock T-shirt offered her suggestions before taking our order, a total of eleven savories rounded out by three desserts ranging from really good to absolutely exemplary, even the Benne Seed Rolls justifying a few dollars extra with honey butter I’d have gladly slathered on just about any piece of bread eaten to date.
Dividing the menu into sections that the kitchen uses in order to expedite items round-by-round it was after perhaps fifteen minutes that plates began to trickle from the back and starting light before progressing to things more hearty the opening trio of sliced tomatoes, tender octopus, and sweet fried crab claws was an inspiring introduction to flavors that followed, each item manipulated just enough to coax out the maximum amount of flavor with produce often times as good or better than the plate’s central protein.
Frequently featuring notes of smoke or ash with herbs acting to smooth out some of the more poignant flavors imparted by the grill round two offered unctuous sweetbreads and a particularly juicy cut of pork alongside baby corn and blackened beets, the chop undoubtedly a sharable showstopper while the corn was simple perfection, a similar compliment applicable to the late season peas and mushrooms kissed with charred lemon.
Interestingly opting to offer the crunchy fried quail as our final protein, a delicious and substantial bit of bird beneath light buttermilk breading, it was with two more sides that the savories would conclude and although some might scoff at the idea of upscale baked beans the smooth emulsion was chock-a-block full of smoked pork with just a touch of maple, the carrots equally pleasant with heat and sweet in delicate balance.
Moving into desserts, an area in which the restaurant has frequently been reported to shine, it was in three items ordered in double that the meal would end and although the panna cotta as well as the coconut cake were indeed quite nice, neither came even close to the high standard set by bread pudding made from the Dunsmoor’s own Benne seed rolls, the flavors of grilled peaches and stewed blueberries melding amidst the custard as rich vanilla ice cream slowly soaked in from overhead.
Tres Leches – mocha, coconut, cream cheese frosting
Leche Quemada con Arroz – graham cracker,fennel pollen, cinnamon
Impressed to varying degrees by Bacco Mercat, Orsa & Winston, as well as Ledlow it was to Josef Centeno’s Bar Ama that the group turned for late Saturday lunch, but between balmy temperatures, agonizingly slow service, and a thumping soundtrack that reminds one more of a Las Vegas nightclub than an upscale Mexican restaurant there really was not much worth seeing at 118 West 4th Street, least of all the most disappointing dessert tasted this year.
Billed as an “upmarket twist” on Tex-Mex comfort food with a menu heavy in tacos, enchiladas, and several options designed around dietary restrictions plus a sizable tequila list, it was after a sweltering delay for water (as well as service) that a soon-to-depart waiter finally greeted the table and with decisions already made an order was quickly placed, another long wait separating us from creamy vegan dip that showed a great depth of flavor amidst robust spices, the housemade tortillas offering a bit of reprieve from the spiciness of the peppers as beverage refills remained scarce.
At this point apparently being served by one back server along with a young woman who never once visited the table until it was time to order dessert, it was forty-five minutes in that the family style chicken board arrived and having to request the menu-listed tortillas as the busser was entirely unaware of how to present the plate it was another short delay before we tucked in, the earthiness of the black sauce thankfully quite pronounced as a result of not being over-sweetened while the bird’s flesh was quite moist beneath somewhat flabby skin, the pickled onions offering a nice balance though we could have without the herb-forward greens.
Impressed by the sweets program at Centeno’s other spots and excited by a list of items that seemed to encompass all the best of Mexican desserts it was in two selections that final bites were invested and although the stick-a-spoon-up-straight rice pudding was a beautiful balance of spices, sweetness, and textures the Tres Leches was an unmitigated disaster, the cake itself offering a bizarre sponginess that was extremely unpleasant on the palate while the frosting was thick and chalky, not one aspect of dish even hinting at the traditional texture or flavor profile.
An LA Institution like no other, with pastrami that is considered by some to be the best in the world, it was finally with family in tow that a visit to Langer’s was made and although the surrounding area may best be defined as ‘sketchy,’ the Deli itself sets high standards for food as well as service, the latter provided by a woman with a thick Scottish accent aged about eighty years old.
Large in size with opening hours at 8am every day of the week except Sunday, Langer’s has inhabited a sizable corner adjacent MacArthur Park since 1947 and although the menu may prove daunting given its actual size as well as breadth of selections a closer look reveals several areas of redundancy, the basic gist being that of Jewish Delicatessen classics, many focused on the famous house-cured pastrami.
Admittedly already a bit full as a result of stops en route to Los Angeles, it was just after 9am when our trio sat down at a four-top booth in the center of the space, and focusing on diversity without filling up a five part order was crafted, the server making suggestions and keeping beverages brimming while sprinkling anecdotes about hers as well as the restaurant’s history.
Beginning with hot items before progressing to the signature for which they’re known, first bites were comprised of soft baked potatoes beneath a robust golden crust topped in thick mushroom gravy, the followup of sweet cream cheese inside a lightly seared wrapper providing a juxtaposition of taste as well as texture, the answer to which was ‘better’ entirely a matter of personal preference.
Bucking the trend of the #19 due to a strong distaste for Russian Dressing and instead opting for fatty cuts atop lightly toasted Rye with added Nippy cheese, it was in tasting the meat first by itself that the robust spice and smoke profile was best detected amidst the melt-in-your-mouth texture and although no expert I’d be hard pressed to name a better flavored piece of ‘deli meat’ anywhere, the same to be said of the sort of bread by which one would be well advised to judge all others.
No doubt bringing my predilection for sweets along for the ride, rice pudding and carrot cake omitted in favor of more traditional items including a steaming block of Kugel packed with raisins and custard that far outperformed the two versions tasted in the past, it was with a slice of Langer’s homemade apple pie that the meal would end and although the slice itself was indeed a nice balance of sucrose and buttery crust it was the addition of vanilla ice cream and warm Brandy sauce that really put the pie, as well as our stomachs, over the top, the public art exhibit across the street proving a well placed reason to walk some of it off.
Flappy’s Special French Toast – Raisin cinnamon swirl French toast topped with raisins and pecans, complimented by our special cinnamon apple glaze. Dusted with powdered sugar and whipped butter
Monte Cristo – Lean ham, Turkey and Swiss cheese in a golden fried French toast. Sprinkled with powdered sugar, with Raspberry Jam and Fried Zucchini
Stuffed Cream of Wheat Pancakes – Two cream of wheat pancakes stuffed with blended sweet cheeses with a touch of real vanilla. Dusted with powdered sugar and topped with strawberry compote
Flappy’s Signature – Our own oven German pancakes filled and wrapped with fresh strawberries, blueberries and bananas. Dusted with powdered sugar and served with fresh lemons and syrup
Located along historic Route 66 in the city of Glendora, Flappy Jack’s Pancake House had long been on a list of places to stop en route from the Silver State to the Golden one, and for once making the early morning drive with like-palates in tow a 7:10am arrival found the restaurant only filled to 20%, the service absolutely flawless with portions more than generous when accounting for the cost.
Themed in the 50s, Elvis and Marilyn decorating the walls while era-expected tunes chimed overhead, it was within moments of seating at a semi-lunar booth that menus were presented and with options likely numbering over ninety it was in a quartet of plates that three appetites were invested, the coffee mostly what one would expect from a diner with refills aplenty.
Requesting an overhead fan be turned down as the restaurant temperature hovered around sixty it would not be long before plates were presented and acknowledging an intent to share from the very beginning the artificial maple syrup was immediately cast aside in favor of the pure stuff brought from home, though in reality not much was needed.
Reportedly making all compotes and blending cream cheeses in-house it was with the densely packed Monte Cristo that the tasting began and substituting fried zucchini in place of potatoes as a side both the golden fried items were absolutely excellent, the sandwich particularly delightful when matched to raspberry jelly while the “Special” French Toast was richly aromatic with cinnamon beneath the autumnal compote, but unfortunately just a bit too ‘bready.’
Moving on to the restaurant’s eponymous item, more than two-dozen iterations availaible from traditional buttermilk to the baked German version served with lemon and confectioners sugar, it was in two of Flappy’s famous items that the meal would conclude and although the muffin-like cream of wheat pillows surrounding smooth sweet cheese beneath a lacquer of strawberries was indeed quite delicious it simply could not compare to the quality of another “signature.” the burrito-like baked pancake absolutely stuffed with fresh fruit and a light kiss of lemon, the center soft and spongy with the exterior just crisp enough.
Located a bit northeast of Los Angeles proper, and likely overlooked by the same folks who rave SK and DK as a result of its address, Colorado Donuts may seem like just another Asian donut shop amidst hundreds in the city, but a closer look at the cozy corner shop shows a surprising degree of diversity with several classics served up alongside some of the most whimsical fried dough this side of Voodoo.
Not particularly the most attractive of spots, a few tables and a rather uninspiring cooler of ice creams that looked to be several days old set beside several large cases and racks of fried dough, a visit to Colorado Donuts requires a bit of deliberation to decide which items look best and with social media check-ins and buy-six-get-one-free offers helping to offset slightly high prices an eight-part order was elaborated, the $16.12 total largely a result of selecting several $2+ specials soon to be boxed and bagged.
Sitting down to taste, some in house and the rest later on, first bites of a buttermilk bar found plenty of sour notes beneath the sugary glaze and although the raised and frosted Sesame Street themed ring was cuter that it was tasty, the version topped with chopped Reese’s was as soft and fluffy as those found at Donut Man or California Donuts, on par with the best in the city.
Moving on to cake, both the cocoa-strewn Red Velvet and semi-sweet bright purple Ube were supple yet toothsome beneath a light spread of cream cheese, and although exceedingly rich as well as quite messy, the laminated stack of Oreo fluff was every bit worth the calories, though perhaps a dish best shared.
Saving what was presumed to be the ‘best’ for last, it was into a longjohn labeled as “Twix” that a plastic knife was plunged, and meeting some resistance before slowly sawing through the flavors of melted chocolate, caramel, and crunchy cookie confirmed all rumors of the fried candy bar’s decadence, though the apple fritter that followed soon managed to wrestle away the spotlight with an exterior that crackled amidst glaze and darkly tanned edges, the interior soft and strewn with apples but virtually free of oil.
Located along the route from Las Vegas to Los Angeles in the small town of Barstow California, Frosty’s Donuts is the de facto recommendation for ‘best donuts in town,’ and with early morning hours, occasionally even 24-hours a 4:50am stop found several donuts hot and fresh, the overnight staff busying themselves with frying between bouts of Street Fighter on the Xbox, a steady stream of patrons intermittently stopping in.
Small in size, but featuring a bevy of options inclusive of all the standards, it was with a half dozen +1 order that energy stores were replenished and with four of seven options freshly made the results were almost universally impressive for an oldschool mom n’ pop doughnuttery, only the minimally filled Bearclaw entirely unworthy of order while both raised options were light as a feather and really quite exemplary.
Personally a fan of cake donuts, particularly the simple standards of shops dating back to the beginnings of fried dough, it was certainly a result of good fortune that our time of arrival saw both crumb and old-fashioned still warm with the former featuring a robust spice profile while the later was rich and creamy, the buttermilk bar ever so lightly tangy beneath a crispy sugar enamel and the fritter completely devoid of oiliness with a whole lot of cinnamon plus even more apple.
Top of the Mountain – Fresh Made Waffle with Bananas, Whipped Cream, Chocolate Sauce, and Cashew Caramel Ice Cream
The second location of a locally owned ice cream shop, one would hardly know that Perfect Scoop & Boba Tea was located on Fort Apache Road if they were not on the lookout for such things, but tucked away on the backside of a shopping complex on the corner of Tropicana across from Walmart the small shop is turning out some really great ice cream, though the neon lighted setting and Kenny G Soundtrack could definitely be improved.
Founded by a fellow from New Jersey, and using an exceedingly creamy base to fabricate no less than forty flavors in house, the choices at Perfect Scoop consist of traditional flavors as well as some Asian specialties with vegan options and a few baked goods plus any number of boba teas and mixed concoctions serving to round the menu out.
Unfortunately sold out of the macarons from which their ice cream sandwiches are made, but still offering several options in which one is invited to invest their sweet, or even somewhat adventurous tooth, it was after a few large samples that an order was decided upon, the $14.26 seeming a bit steep at first but more than justified by sizable scoops plus made-to-order waffles that themselves rival all but the very best in town.
A bit put off by Red Velvet that tasted very artificial, but intrigued by Asian flavors including Yuzu while Durian was avoided like the plague, it was with two scoops atop a large housemade waffle cone that first bites were taken and with the taro a spot-on representation of the ingredient’s mild flavor the black sesame proved even better, the mild nuttiness somewhere between peanut butter and miso as each bite walked a fine line of balancing notes both savory and sweet.
Having waited approximately ten minutes as a man twice the age of the small female server prepared my second dish within a kitchen hidden to the rear, it was largely a result of the sold-out sandwiches that saw me order a “Top of The Mountain” and perhaps serendipitous in some strange way it was with the crisp malty tones that the crisp Belgian waffle absolutely wowed beneath a drizzle of dark chocolate, the creamy balls of cashew caramel no less excellent while bananas and whipped cream were perfectly adequate, the addition of sprinkles adding just a touch of whimsy to something that already had earned a wide smile and round of applause.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Not a fan of Boba, and thoroughly unamused by Snow Cream or Shaved Ice outside of the immaculate version done at KU Noodle, Perfect Scoop is the sort of place that reminisces of childhood summers and youthful indulgence out on Lake Erie at a favorite local Scoop shop, yet without all the Middle Class Caucasian Americana, Live Bait and Beer Cans, or Toft’s Ice Cream pre-made and shipped several months before…
RECOMMENDED: Waffle, Black Sesame, Cashew Caramel, Yuzu for those looking for a fruity taste.
AVOID: Red Velvet, Going too late when Macarons are sold out…and Kenny G.
TIP: Those who fancy Boba will be happy to know that $1 can be saved via Yelp! Check-in.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
