Dubbed by ‘foodies,’ tourists and locals as a “can’t miss” meal in Brussels, it was straight off the plane that a stop was made at Nordzee ‘Mer du Nord’ Seafood, the order-and-wait-for-your-name-to-be-screamed-while-jockying-for-a-table style as much a part of the experience as the food based on reviews though the former was a non-issue for solo-dining while the later is a touch pricy, all things considering, though still very good.
One part retail, several Chefs in the area buying their fresh fish straight from the stand, the main action at Noordzee is by way of a walk-up counter with a simple whiteboard menu and although a late afternoon arrival saw several specials already sold out there still seemed to be no lack of a customers, the Croquettes and Razor Clams undeniably the most popular options while daily soups and fried fish seemed more quick to come off the line.
Accepting Cash or Credit, the former requested with preference and the card machines frequently “down” as they were on this particular Saturday, an order of three items plus complimentary bread tallied a bill of just under €20 and starting with bread and soup straight from the hands that had just handled money the flavor of briny seasnails came through loud and clear beneath a heavy shake of pepper amidst chunks of cooked-to-tender broccoli.
Skipping skewers, though items coming off the grill looked great, It was perhaps fifteen minutes before parts two and three were shouted out separately, the croquettes filled with creamy cheese and copious chopped crevettes while the kibbling was fried skin-on for maximum flavor with the house tartare complimenting the mild white flesh.
Chef Series #4: Pre-Memorial Day Chef’s Pot Luck at Niu Gu
Jimmy Li – Niu Gu Signature Short Rib
Jimmy Li – Hong Kong Style Black Cod
Jimmy Li – Tea Jelly with Almond
Antonio Nunez – 36-hour cured Whole Hog Roast with Roasted Garlic Puree, Chipotle Adobo, Brown Sugar, Fresh Bay Leaves, Black Peppercorns and Jalapeno Bacon
Marty Red DeLeon Lopez- Pork Belly Adobo Roulades with Garlic Rice and Pork Fat
Jon VanHusen – Skillet Cornbread
Jon VanHusen – Mushroom Meatloaf
Chris Decker – Sausage & Calabrian Peppers, Italian bread Platter
John Courtney – Green Tripe Salad, Fresh Garbanzo Beans, Bird’s Beak Chili, Preserved Buddha Vinaigrette
Christopher Palmeri – Potato Gnocchi with Farmer’s Market Caponata
Sandra Palomo – Beef Kelaguen and Mango Cucumber Garnish
Dan Krohmer – Homemade Kim Chi Fried Rice
Josh Smith – Frisee Aux Lardons, Pate Campagne, Cornichons, Country Bread
Carlos Buscaglia – French Toast Bread Pudding, House Smoked Maple Syrup, Tres Leches Gelato from Gelatology
Hemant Kishore – Gulab Jamun
Jonathan Pluvinet – Tarte Tatin, Chocolate Almond Croissants
Jaret Blinn – Stone Fruit Pop Tarts and Sea Salt Spiced Caramel Pots de Creme
Tiffany Sheree Jones – Lemon Meringue Cake, Banana Caramel Cake
Matthew Piekarski and Carol Garcia -HeXx Single Origin Petit Four Selection of Brownies, Chocolate Tarts, Chocolate Chip Cookies and Chocolate Cheesecake with Caramel Corn
Tammy Alana – Blueberry and Lemon Verbena Tartlets
David Cooper – Ketel One, Sage infused Simple Syrup, Cucumber, Fresh Lemon Juice, Touch of Mint with a float of Sparkling Water and Cucumber Peel garnish
David Cooper – Don Julio Reposado, Montinegro Amaro, Grapefruit infused Simple Syrup , Fresh Orange Juice, Fresh Grapefruit, Sprinkle of Sea Salt and Tajin with a float of Grapefruit Soda garnished by a Grapefruit Peel dipped in Sea Salt-Tajin Rub
Opting for an all-in communal dining experience common to the start of Summer, Chef Series #4 took on the concept of a Pot Luck lunch and with Joe Muscaglione offering to host at Chinatown’s Niu Gu on South Jones thirty-plus guests were treated to a spread from twenty of Las Vegas’ best Chefs, Bakers and Bartenders for a mere $20 each.
Truly a feast for the ages, each Chef donating a plate of their choice and invited to join diners at the table if they could find the time, it was through a combined effort that plates were collected to set the scene for buffet-style service and with spots like Bardot actually sending their a Sous Chef to compose their dish in the kitchen the sights and smells were enough to get appetites going, a truly multi-cultural event with everything served in portions that could have fed double the number of attendees.
Always impressed by not only the talent in the local kitchens, but by the general sense of community amongst Chefs and diners alike, it would truly be impossible to pick out one dish that “stood out” amongst such an outlandish collection of foods that most diners would never dare attempt for a simple family outing, though there is little doubt that everything presented received a thorough tasting from several well-versed locals, the Pork Belly Adobo Roulades from Marty Red DeLeon Lopez of 35 Steaks + Martinis particularly receiving compliments from Chef Li of Niu Gu while several could not get enough of Jon VanHusen’s Skillet Cornbread from Elements.
No doubt a skilled group, some opting to up the ante as others announced their dishes in the Chef Series group on Facebook, it would be hard to say any dish was more “eye-catching” than Antonio Nunuez Whole Hog offering and having tasted some of the Chef’s Roast Pork at Kitchen Table the meat here was every bit as impressive, if not more so, Chris Palmeri’s Gnocchi continuing to show why Naked City is as Essential to Las Vegas diners as any while Chris Decker’s Bread, Sausage and Peppers provided a good reminder of how much beauty can be found in the simplest old-world pairings.
With Other Mama’s Dan Krohmer sending Homemade Kim Chi Fried Rice that effortlessly rewarmed in one of Niu Gu’s Woks, JD from Bardot found himself wok-frying Lardons to top off Josh Smith’s Frisee Salad surrounded by golden Eggs, the Pate and Bread furthering the embarrassment of riches as did John Courtney’s vibrant Tripe Salad and Sandra Sandra Palomo’s Beef Kelaguen that will never be seen at Yardbird, but may just be worth begging her to make for you by special request.
Obviously not expecting everyone to play by the rules, Chefs of this caliber always going above the call of duty, both VanHusen and HKLife’s Hemant Kishore could not help but double down and send two plates, the former pastry chef from PublicUS showing he still hasn’t lost his fastball for sweetness with orbs of Gulab Jamun alongside fragrant Malabar Chicken Biriyani while Chef Jon’s Mushroom Meatloaf may not have been much to look at, but was downright delicious just the same.
Admitting that the turnout was greater than anticipated, every Chef asked gladly agreeing to chip in at no cost, host Jimmy Li sent out his signature Shortrib in several rounds along with shell-on spicy shrimp and freshly delivered Black Cod all plated elegantly while the dessert spread unfolded like a who’s who of local talents from Henderson to the Strip to Summerlin and Spring Valley.
Joined by Coop, a man oft considered the best Bartender in Las Vegas, who got up at 3am to begin preparation and stayed the whole event mixing cocktails every bit as creative as those served at Carnevino, dessert tasting began with two cakes from aspiring city councilwoman Tiffany Sheree Jones of Peridot Sweets and with both the frosted Banana Bread and Lemon Mascarpone equally elegant so too were the meringue tartlets from Alize and Andres’ Tammy Alana, the fruit theme continued by Jaret Blinn’s CRAFTKitchen Pop-Tarts and a Tarte Tatin as good as many found in Europe from Rosallie’s Jonathan Pluvinet.
An excessive display to say the least, several bags, boxes and clamshells packed with still more left to feed the Niu Gu team a very fine Staff Meal, special thanks go out to Carlos Buscaglia of Due Forni for getting up early to fire the ovens *and* deliver his outstanding Bread Pudding with Gelato from Desyree despite limited staffing at his restaurant, and also to Chefs Matt and Carol at HeXx for continuing to do everything they do to offer something completely unique at Paris’ 24/7 eatery, the individually portioned Petit Fours each made from Single Origin Chocolate, while more cocoa provided the filling to Pluvinet’s flaky Croissants and the creamy base of Pots de Crème topped with caramel from Chef Blinn.
Special Thanks to the Chefs, attendees and hosts: As many of you may know, the last month has been incredibly fast paced and stressful, though things are finally starting to calm down. Without each of you there is no way this event would have been possible and despite many moving parts the whole thing came together beautifully without a hitch. You all are what makes dining in this city special and with continued effort I really do think we can continue to grow a community that supports collaboration and honest, great food across Las Vegas. I look forward to many more of these events and many more meals at tables throughout this truly unique city.
TIP: Chef Series #5 will feature Metro Pizza and LuLu’s Bread and Breakfast Chef Chris Decker with Dan Krohmer at Other Mama. 6/18/16 at 4:00pm. Save the Date. Details to Follow.
Caramel and Roasted Honey Carrots, Cornbread Irish Whiskey Milk Jam on a Vanilla Waffle Cone
Caramel Filled Churro
Chocolate Brownie Cookie
Oatmeal Cranberry Cookie
Quite literally made famous by Desyree Alberganti, one of the most beloved faces in Las Vegas’ culinary community later taking her talents south to Gelatology for reasons that remain unconfirmed rumors to this day, it took some time to consider a return visit to Art of Flavors on South Las Vegas Boulevard, mixed opinions from trusted sources paired with dinner at SLO-Boy finally providing impetus to stop in for a taste.
Now owned and operated by Douglas Taylor, himself a veteran of the local frozen treats scene after stints with Mario Batali at the Venetian and Palazzo, Art of Flavors opted to keep its name while significantly changing up the décor as well as the offerings and although the gelato case remains front and center the in-house baking program features everything from cookies and cones to biscotti and churros, the prices actually a bargain when considering the nearby competition, especially those casino-based.
Visiting around seven o’clock, Taylor only briefly passing through as bites were being enjoyed at stylish wood tables located next to the freezer case and a collection of cookbooks on shelves, it was with several samples offered on long metal spoons that initial opinions were formed of a product compromised by a freezer not performing adequately, many of the flavors downright brilliant though several contained ice crystals created through cycles of thawing and refreezing while others were slightly firmer than cold soup.
Eventually settling on a $4.99 two-flavored “small” atop a $1 Vanilla Waffle Cone, the gelato dripping through the bottom before the bill was paid, suffice it to say that Chef Taylor’s cones set a new local standard as the texture is crisp yet slightly flexible and although a few licks were no doubt lost on the floor, shirt and napkin the flavor of both Caramel and Roasted Honey Carrots as well as Cornbread Irish Whiskey Milk Jam were as rich and complex as the names are cumbersome, the former particularly special by way of the vegetal sweetness while the samples such as “Juliette the Goose Egg and Sage Flowers” and “Ripe Banana Chocolate Chip Peanut Butter Cookie Dough” were simply too clever for their own good, the latter gritty and the former just short of “bathroom floral.”
Turning attention to the bakery stock, cookies and biscotti stacked behind glass while hot oil awaits churro dough, both the $1.50 Chocolate Brownie Cookie and its Oatmeal Cranberry counterpart were of the thin variety with crisp rims and soft centers, the same actually applicable to the $2 yardstick of a doughnut piped full of salty caramel, most certainly not your run-of-the-mill Churro but instead something best sat down with to enjoy slowly with a knife and a fork.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: Massively affected by storage temperatures far warmer than would seem logical, the result a product that fails texturally no matter how good the flavor or intent, one wonders if this is a choice or an effect of machinery, because taking into account the rest of the offerings and prices it seems a few simple tweaks could see a former favorite shine again.
RECOMMENDED: Caramel Churro, Waffle Cones.
AVOID: Gelato, unless sampling shows texture to meet personal tastes.
TIP: Parking in the small lot seems worse than ever and vagrants seem to have free reign to use the AoF Restrooms, then pester patrons for “A Little Help” with no interference from Staff.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Bucky Duck – Duck Confit in Buckwheat Crepe, Brie Cheese, Farm Fresh Sunny Side Up Egg, Parsley Chive Pesto
Griddle Bread Pudding – Thick Cut Whiskey Bread Pudding, Pressed then Seared on the Flat Top with Butter, Salted Caramel Sauce
Shortly after Joshua Clark’s The Goodwich decided to go full Brick n’ Mortar in DTLV it was announced that the small stall out front of Dino’s Lounge would be turned into The Goodwich: TBD “culinary incubator,” and although several scheduling issues prevented a visit to premier tenant Justin Kingsley Hall’s “SLO-Boy Food” during its first three months a meal on Friday proved what several Chefs have been saying for awhile – Chef Hall has a whole lot of talent.
Named after the Chef’s home of San Luis Obispo, but equally applicable as relates to the Slowfoods movement with a focus on technique, product and sustainability, SLO-Boy presents a concise menu of roasted meats and local produce cooked with precision that far outperforms the humble environs and although “take-out” only, with a few outdoor seats plus the option for those 21+ to eat at Dino’s, these limitations seem minor in comparison to the food’s overall execution.
Reaching out to Chef Justin in advance, a coursed meal of SLO-Boy’s current menu served by brown-paper-bag and Economical packaging with plastic forks, knives and spoons plus paper “share plates” brought from home, it was inside Dino’s under *that* famous photograph of Johnny Cash that the four-course/dozen-item tasting was undertaken and with vivid descriptions as well as clever naming each item that arrived showed the work of a Chef willing to go the extra mile, no-doubt something honed through years of travel and time working at Comme Ca alongside Brian Howard.
Starting off with a trio, the new menu not exactly “light” eating despite low prices with sides $5-7 and entrees topping-out at $14, it seems only appropriate that a California native would offer Avocado Toast, but upping the ante on “Highway 46” with Pea Tendrils and blistered Tomatoes for acidity Hall’s ability to coax flavor from fresh produce is immediately thrust front-and-center, the crispy Half Chicken far lighter than the usual fried stuff atop a vibrant salad while the “Coq Au” Sandwich is funky yet fresh by way of pate juxtaposing house-pickled vegetables – charcuterie as a condiment, by way of a sandwich.
Certainly not “fine dining,” patrons of the Dive-Bar occasionally belting out sounds as the soundtrack ranged from Miley Cyrus to Pantera, course two saw the team send out John S. Park, PB&L, Cauliflower Steak and Cigar City, the proteins each cooked as well as some seen at Michelin-Starred establishments with the Pork Belly particularly noteworthy as Hall achieves the perfect balance of crisp-but-still-fatty, and yet as good as each of these items were there is little doubt that the Charred Cauliflower Steak is the surprise hit of menu as a result of light smoke dancing beneath pureed Green Olives plus the concentrated flavor of Tomatoes and gently poached Fennel.
Some at the table already full, an all-in bill below $120 essentially a complete look at SLO-Boy’s current offerings but undoubtedly a lot of food, round three saw weekly special “Lamb for Logan” served alongside Hall’s raved Grass Fed Tri-Tip, Baby Steak Fries and Bucky Duck, the pasta unfortunately a bit overdone though the Lamb and Mushroom ragout was outstanding while the lean Beef and confit Duck Leg again spoke of superior ingredients treated with the respect they deserve, the Harissa Carrots as good as rumor would have it while the melting Brie Crepe was textbook.
Rounding out the evening with Whiskey Bread Pudding – those fancying more subtle desserts well advised to abstain – there may be no finer example of the dish outside of Herringbone in the city at this moment and at just $5 per “Thick Cut” the custard soaked slice offers a perfect sear atop layers of creaminess, the base itself already impressive before a bath in luxurious Caramel sauce.
FOUR STARS: Taking into account the limitations of its kitchen and setting Justin Kingsley Hall’s SLO-Boy Food will be a tough act for any The Goodwich: TBD concept to follow, the up-coming months promising to be big ones for the young Chef with whatever comes next hopefully building on these concepts and an even bigger audience soon to see his considerable skills.
Melitzanosalata – Fire Roasted Eggplant Puree, Fresh Garlic, Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Greek Yogurt served with Pita
Hummus – Garbanzo Bean and Tahini Spread with Lemon Juice served with Pita
Sweet Beet – Sliced Sweet Beets Drizzled with Red Wine Vinegar and Extra Virgin Olive Oil, garnished with Greek Garlic Mashed Potato Dip and Greek Yogurt with Pita
Beef Tips – Braised in Red Wine and Tomatoes, served with Rich Tomato Sauce over Rice with Pita
Chef’s Shrimp Heaven for Helen – Grilled Shrimp served with Sauteed Fruit and Citrus Sauce over a bed of Arugula, Greek Style Potatoes with Oregano
Mousaka – Baked Eggplant, Potatoes, Zucchini, Ground Beef, Tomato Sauce, Greek Feta Cheese, Cream Cheese, Parsley with Pita and Rice
Rice Pudding – Cinnamon
Karidopita – Walnut Cake with Cinnamon and Syrup
Baklava – Toasted Walnuts Baked in Phyllo Dough and finished with Orange Cinnamon Honey, Served with Sweet Grape Sauce
Kourabiedes – Greek Butter Cookies with Powdered Sugar
Located in Sun City Summerlin, the location in a small Strip Mall really no different than much of the dining in an age restricted community, Mykonos Greek Cuisine has received its fair share of praise from area residents since a recent change in ownership and dining as a trio in the dimly lit room this past Saturday the experience generally proved quite pleasant, though prices seem a bit precious even as portions trend big.
Admittedly unfamiliar with the area, reasons for anyone in their twenties or thirties to venture into this part of the valley few and far between, Mykonos ‘strives to bring the culture and elegance of the Mykonos Islands here through Authentic Greek Foods and Service” and with a menu highly focused on Lamb, Beef, Mezze and Salads it seems odd that Guy Fieri is featured prominently on overhanging flatscreens while service is efficient if not a little overwhelming, an ever-present hand failing to clear extraneous dishes while at the same time incessantly trying to top-off Iced Tea.
At times showing its authenticity by way of subtleties of spelling, recipes or descriptions while at the same time featuring Early Bird Specials and several plates that seem “Americanized” for their typical clientele, those sitting down at Mykonos are well advised to investigate the collection of housemade spreads offered individually or by way of combination, the creamy Hummus and Melitzanosalata each priced at $7 with accompanying warm Pita while the $10.50 Sweet Beet Salad is an interesting presentation with sliced rounds encircling Garlic Mashed Potatoes with Olive Oil, the Red Wine Vinegar not particularly perceptible while the menu-described Greek Yogurt was nowhere to be found.
Really going all-out with the Pita, in many ways a good thing as the warm housemade rounds are lightly tinged with herbs and near-perfect for scooping up any sort of sauce or spread, entrees arrived perhaps fifteen minutes after starters were presented and although the Mousaka was as authentic as any experienced it was actually the fall-apart Beef Tips in Red Sauce that were truly outstanding, the “Heaven for Helen” apparently a relic of prior ownership that was all-over-the-place in terms of its flavors, the handful of tail on shrimp largely forgettable while the admixture of warmed fruit over bitter greens was actually quite great.
Acknowledging that the $23.50 Shrimp would likely be *too* sweet for some, those familiar with Greek Desserts will be happy to know that Mykonos cuts no corners as relates to either of their three options and whether one fancies something as traditional as Rice Pudding or as dense as Karidopita the smart money is in a truly exemplary slice of housemade Baklava served in the cosmopolitan “island” style, bathed in sautéed Grape Sauce.
THREE STARS: Totaling over $120 after tax & tip, nearly a Strip-priced meal compared to other Greek Restaurants in Town, Mykonos Greek Cuisine takes a unique look at Mediterranean food in one of the city’s least likely dining spaces, perhaps not worth “going out of the way for,” but good for a change of pace.
RECOMMENDED: Hummus, Beef Tips, Pita, Baklava.
AVOID: Sweet Beet Salad and Chef’s Shrimp Heaven for Helen offer low value on the dollar.
TIP: Frequently offering coupons, $10 off bills over $50 given with the check, those looking to check out Mykonos on a budget are encouraged to visit at lunch of before 6:00, a limited breakfast spread also offered beginning at 8am.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Opened three months ago by a husband and wife team hailing from San Antonio and Estonia, respectively, Big B’s Texas BBQ took over the former Jason’s Deli at 3019 St. Rose Parkway and completely reinventing the inside brick-by-brick and board-for-board over the course of just three months the phrase “work of passion” proves thoroughly appropriate, a Saturday afternoon visit showing the ‘cue to be superior in its simplicity with no lack of down home flare.
Designed as a boot-scootin’ indoor picnic where the big board details a wide range of meats, sides, salads, sandwiches and combo plates, Big B’s brings the concept of true Texas Barbeque to Las Vegas by way of low n’ slow smoking using imported Oak from the Lone Star State with little more than a salt and pepper rub, the resultant crust on items like Beef and Baby Back Ribs a bit robust for flimsy plastic utensils while the smoke is deep to penetrate with a good ring on the brisket and chicken where crisp skin gives way to flesh that is moist and lean.
Speaking to co-owner Natalia throughout the course of lunch, the duo consulting with an outside Chef for sides while the rub and sauces are a result of years of outdoor cooking back home, it is at handmade picnic tables that patrons of Big B’s are encouraged to select seating and with Nellis Airforce base as well as the local Fire Department dining amongst families of all races and ages there is no doubt of The Valley’s love of a cuisine as yet looking for a champion, though the quality has no doubt improved in recent weeks and months.
Explaining the reasons for importing Oak, as well as the use of North Las Vegas’ Nicholas Meats to acquire Beef in place of US Foods, first bites of ‘cue from Big B’s smoker included both Chicken aswell as two cuts of Brisket, the lean stuff not particularly flavorful no matter the rub or techniques while the fattier cuts were melt-in-the-mouth tender, actually better on its own than with either style of housemade sauce.
In general trending a bit tomato heavy in terms of sauces as well as BBQ Beans, the first side tasted made by slow-simmering of Brisket from the day before, Creamed Corn and Coleslaw both also need a little work in terms of seasoning while the cornbread and Mac n’ Cheese are as good as any found at a similar operation, the former served as little muffins that are moist and dense without a need for any additional butter at all.
Continuing its ‘naked’ smoking with pork products, the smoky pulled pork featuring a deep sapor completely devoid of sweetness or sauce, Ribs are without doubt a *must* at Big B’s and with the aforementioned issues of cutlery already discussed the decision of whether to order Baby Backs or Beef Ribs is entirely one of personal preference, both presenting competition for best in the city and something to look out for when festival season begins.
Truly going *hot* with Links, each snappy Sausage tinged in Jalapenos with one version also featuring cheese, those with low spice tolerance will be glad to quench their thirst with beer, tea or beverages from a Coke Remix machine, though considering the quality of desserts those with room left over would be well advised to squelch the fire with peach cobbler atop all butter pastry and a crown of ice cream or a plastic clamshell of Banana Pudding with not just ‘Nilla Wafers but also Bruleed fruit dialing up the texture.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Offering what may just be the most “authentic” Texas Style ‘cue in a hundred miles, the choice to import Oak a testament to spending a little extra to do things right, Big B’s Texas BBQ still needs a little time to dial in the recipes for sides and sauces, but if and when they do there is real potential to elevate the restaurant from good to great.
Originally visiting the original Donut Mania shortly after opening, owner Wayne accosting patrons snapping photos as “spies” for a local competitor, suffice it to say that first impressions were not particularly welcoming, but having again tasted long-time donut maker’s goods by way of Pawn Donuts and Coffee in the Reality TV plaza one could not help wonder if time and success had helped improved the experience at the family-run operation’s second location in Henderson.
Again setting up shop in a small Strip-Mall, this one on South Green Valley Parkway not far from Green Valley Ranch, PinkBox or CRAFTkitchen, Donut Mania #2 currently sees Wayne’s wife running the operation and with big smiles combined with an obvious passion for customer service the sailing is much smoother than the prior visit would dictate, a young woman in the kitchen even going out of her way to make a PB+J Longjohn for a customer who arrived when one was not yet in the showcase.
Never for lack of choices, the brioche-style base seen at PinkBox as well as Glazier’s reportedly Wayne’s handiwork according to a conversation in the past, Donut Mania continues to offer pricing far more reasonable than similar doughnutteries both local and nationally, cheaper-by-the-dozen or half-dozen discounts available with a $0.99 base and additional cost accrued as selections become more fancy.
Opting for a half-dozen plus two more, the majority piped with unique fillings running the gamut from citrus to cookies & cream, it was unfortunately with a dry and disappointing Cinnamon Swirl that the tasting got started and following that up with a “Strawberries and Cream” that featured only one of the former and far too much of the later one could not help but wonder whether quality had gone downhill across the valley, the next six varieties thankfully providing a reassuring answer.
Enjoying the majority of the goods with coffee elsewhere, Donut Mania’s seating limited yet more than most local shops, bites were next taken of Frosted Lemon followed by Key Lime with Graham Crackers and having recently returned from a brief trip to Florida the latter was good anything seen across the country at a higher pricepoint, the Italian Rum another delicious option with the dampened dough and two styles of cream plus almonds reminiscing of a Rhum Babas’ flavor, if not texture.
Moving from lighter flavors to those more rich or complex it was in follow-up to a supple Red Velvet Ring that bites were taken of the “Nevadan,” and although the name remains a mystery as relates to Bavarian Cream with Caramel and Toasted Coconut there is no doubting that the flavors work beautifully, the same to be said of “Oreo Cheesecake” that eats as heavy as might be expected but at the same time manages to avoid being ‘too rich’ by way of light sourness that balances the finely pureed cookie.
FOUR STARS: Still offering many of the same options as last time, though several novelties have entered the line-up since their opening days, Donut Mania stands side-by-side with PinkBox as the city’s best spot for unique fried pastry and at less than half the price of DTLV’s import Donut Bar the impetus to support locals is more than enough reason to cheer these folks onward as Henderson continues to rapidly develop as the hottest location for breakfast in Sin City.
RECOMMENDED: Nevadan, Key Lime, Italian Rum.
AVOID: Cinnamon Swirl, Strawberries and Cream.
TIP: 10% off for Social Media Check-Ins.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Located in the lower level of an office building in Sarasota, the Main Street scene not unlike many cities across the United States for businessmen taking a working lunch, MADE is an acronym for Modern American Delicious Eats and although the name itself may come across a bit silly there is no doubt that the restaurant executes on its vision with several small plates, sandwiches, entrees and desserts that aim to please.
Best described as upscale America Comfort Food, a concept seen more and more these days, MADE Restaurant features the talents of Chef Mark Woodruff, a Texas Native formally trained at the Culinary Institute of America in New York, and gathering local acclaim since opening in 2013 the all-day menu and weekend brunch are equally well-stocked in creative concepts, the service well fitted with the confidence of friendly professionalism that far outperforms other spots nearby.
Not particularly crowded on a Wednesday at 11:30am, service likely shining even moreso than usual thanks to low volume, it was with “Business Lunch” bargains passed on that a six-part order was requested in three courses and with filtered water showing extra attention to detail it was not long before appetizers were presented, the Double Dipped Chicken featuring good moisture and a bold spice profile even before adding sauces while the Fried Green Tomatoes were at least twice as plump and flavorful as those ordered at Owen’s Fish Camp, a flavor made all the better by scratch-made Green Goddess and grated bacon.
Waiting to fire course two until appetizers were finished, two sandwiches arrived soon, and with one quickly ushered away because of mere eyelash noted by *the server* the Pulled Grouper took center stage as mild tartar mingled with buttery fish and roasted vegetables, the Cheesy Tots well spiced with a creamy center while the re-done Duck Club was soon delivered with confit fowl finding balance in creamy brie and classic BLT treatment plus a touch of garlic.
Apparently the first table of the day to order dessert, others missing out while the pair actually caught the eye of a nearby table who decided to order the same, those visiting Sarasota are strongly encouraged to stop in at MADE during brunch, lunch or dinner for a taste of either the Nutella filled Brioche swimming in housemade Whiskey Cream sauce or the Crème Brûlée by way of Banana Pudding, the tastes and textures probably good enough to justify a trip from Tampa Bay.
The Elvis – Fried Chicken, Biscuit, Two Eggs, Country Gravy
Favored by Siesta Key locals and tourists for the laid back ambiance, outdoor seating and “Hippie” flare, Sun Garden Café was selected for breakfast during a half-day in Sarasota largely due to an out-of-date online menu promising “Grateful Bread Pudding” and “Nutella Stuffed Toast,” neither option available but instead replaced by several run-of-the-mill options plus service that was inefficient and overstretched.
Certainly a popular spot, the average age of diners in excess of sixty with most apparently retired and happy to linger in the sun , it was at an indoor four-top that a party of two was seated, the menus in hand within seconds but a waitress nowhere to be found for at least ten minutes.
Genuinely confused by the bait-n’-switch, but deciding to make-do for lack of desire to go anywhere else nearby to eat, it was finally after a middle-aged woman arrived with a “y’all decided yet?” that an order was constructed, two baked items from a nearby glass case ordered as Starters but both taking nearly twenty minutes to be delivered, no reason for the delay offered until inquiry to which the waitress snapped “they had to be warmed.”
Finally tucking in to some food, the restaurant at perhaps 1/3 capacity in the off-season early hours, it was with good fortune that the buttered and grilled muffin was picture perfect with soft citrus surrounding craisins because although the Sticky Bun looked great the dough was a little too tough to be enjoyable as the sticky-sweet topping melted quickly before sliding off.
Going half sweet and half savory for entrees, each arriving hot on the heels of the aforementioned starters, a stack of three Sweet Potato Pancakes was a bit more dense than some would prefer with the $2 Maple Syrup sidecar barely enough to top one of them while “The Elvis” was an expectedly heavy plate of food with a good biscuit and country gravy, the “poached” eggs more like hard-boiled while chicken was neither well-seasoned nor particularly crispy.
Owned by Lan Bradeen and likely the most avant-garde kitchen in the city of Sarasota, it was for Tuesday dinner that a table for two was booked at MeLange on Main Street, the reservation proving mostly unnecessary as this was the only table inhabited from opening until nearly eight o’clock in the evening, that fact alone potentially a commentary on how the “exploration of food, art & drink” is doing.
Described as “eclectic” and “casually elegant” by locals, the food certainly not the sort found amidst the septuagenarian Early-Bird sprawl, a look at reviews dating to 2009 will show that Chef Bradeen’s concept has undoubtedly evolved from previous eponymous environs and although the menu implements modernist techniques and several interesting ingredients the execution still seems to be a work in progress, the music at times downright annoying while bored servers lack any semblance of “fine dining” education – the younger African American lady audibly heard discussing her drunken weekend escapades while her taller, presumable “boss” could not even do diners the service of describing the constituents of each plate.
The sort of place that politely “declines substitutions,” but immediately goes back on its word when two middle-aged folk walk in at 7:45 requesting a “regular” grilled cheese and salad with dressing on the side, MeLange’s Spring menu nonetheless aspires to achieve bigger things by listing local farmers and opting to comprise an order with three “petite explorations” plus a “snack” and dessert the items served actually speak to Chefs operating with good product and an ample skill set.
Not seeing Chef Lan on site, a Sous intermittently witnessed at work in the open kitchen, the water at MeLange is much like that throughout East Florida in that lemon is necessary to make the hardness palatable and beginning with a duo of “Breakfast” Foie Gras plus Crispy Duck Spring Rolls the kitchen’s predilection for sweetness was notable as both heavy meats sang with citrus, the seared liver well cleaned and rendered to caramelization while the shredded duck was complimented instead of overwhelmed by 5-Spice.
Passing on Sweetbreads and large plates in order to explore a wider range of items, course two again served fowl in double, the “Dessert” Foie Gras actually far less sugary than the one before it as a chilled pudding in an oversized soup spoon while the “Duck Brie Crepes” were a picture-perfect pairing of heavy flavors with just enough levity lent by nuts and dried currants.
Admittedly a bit full, a long day with four prior stops already past, desserts at MeLange follow the Asian-fusion idea not particularly congruent with the bizarre modern artwork, $9 Bread Pudding served as a slightly-dry cylinder with too much bitterness from the toasted walnuts and not enough Butterscotch.
Always intrigued by the idea of “best local pizza,” a dish offered from coast-to-coast and at the smallest cities in between, Solorzano Bros. appeared to be the most commonly cited place for a good slice in the city of Sarasota, the small operation’s Webber Street location visited just past 4:30 on Tuesday for some pre-dinner bites.
No doubt a mom n’pop operation, the far corner of a rundown shopping plaza featuring the restaurant’s name and a sign suggestin “Eat Real Pizza,” the #eatrealpizza hashtag also used in reference to Solorzano Bros. social media feed, entry to the shop brings diners face-to-face with several slices and a full overhead menu, the smiling staff likely putting together take-out orders with shirts bearing the slogan “Legalize Magarita,” bumper stickers reading the same given out for free.
Not wanting to invest in a whole pie, and thankfully finding out that fresh slices were due “in about 10 minutes” the decision was made to wait while munching on golden Garlic Knots served six-for-five-dollars, not quite enough sauce provided for dipping though the light acidity and restrained sweetness were good enough to justify purchasing more for just fifty cents.
Moving next to two fresh New York slices, plus a pillowy Sicilian whose texture was unfortunately compromised by reheating as edges were rendered a bit dry, the first thing to note about Solorzano’s crust is that the light char imparted by the oven does a marvelous job of expanding small air-pockets to impart maximum chew beneath the crunchy exterior, the toppings of a good quality as sausage features a bold spice profile while rounds of tomato are thin enough to dry slightly without losing flavor beneath fresh-cut basil leaves.
Well priced for the quality offered, the dining area sizable yet homey with signs and photos all around, music predictably moved to Old Blue Eyes just moments before dessert was presented, the subcaptions of Sportscenter showing Stephan Curry accept the League’s MVP award as teeth shattered the shell of a fresh-filled Cannoli filled with housemade Strawberry puree.
Located along the same stretch of pavement as Upper Crust and Venice Avenue Creamery it was during the busy lunch hour that a stop was made at local favorite Croissant & Co., the homespun space filled with Francophile specialties plus several additional options catering to the local crowd’s age-based proclivities.
More brightly lit than Upper Crust, the fresh pastries and bread laid out fancifully behind glass as opposed to being tucked inside a retro metal case, those entering Croissant & Co are likely to be met by big smiles and rich accents from servers, owners or bakers and whether opting for a table or take-out the wait can vary depending on timing, as can the daily menu’s variety.
Not particularly keen on a long queue, the quoted time at 12:05 approximately “20-30 minutes” for two, it was with little lost that an order turned to take out baked-goods and although the Alligator shaped loaf was admittedly quite amusing, the items chosen took a far more traditional approach with many of them quite good.
Unpacking pastries an hour later, the quintet fetching although an almond croissant that felt hefty yet flaccid turned out to be just so with a dense pocket of Frangipane at the base, first bites of a Paris Brest showed the choux somewhat compromised by way of humidity despite the light hazelnut filling, the Pear Tart also featuring almond paste far more appropriately textured than its predecessors largely as a result of the crisp butter shell beneath.
Hoping for better use of lamination technique in later bites, the powder-sugar stenciled Apple Tart easily the best of the group with a rim that shattered to the tooth, final bites of the Chocolate Twist would have been benefited by use of darker type of cocoa, the flavor perceptible though certainly not robust.
Told that Sarasota had recently opened its first Artisan Donut Shop, the storefront tucked in a Strip Mall on Bee Ridge Road next to a beauty salon, it was just past ten o’clock that a stop was made at La Dona Donuts, the selection surprisingly a bit picked over despite the early hour, though each of the remaining Vanilla Cake rings was actually pretty good.
Named a “Best of SRO” winner for 2016, the competition not really anything to mention but La Dona’s “small batch” daily approach not to be overlooked, those entering the small shop are likely to be greeted by owner Chelsea Elliott and with décor that trends cutesy without trying ‘too hard’ the goods are laid out with tags bearing brief descriptions, a coffee cart along the back wall featuring three brews available for self-pour.
Not a doughnut maker by trade, the young owner only starting her journey a year and a half prior after finding inspiration out-of-state, La Dona Donuts features a handmade base with notes of vanilla perfuming a light crumbly texture, each ring subsequently treated to a wide range of elaborate toppings or glaze.
Using a Social Media Check-In to score free coffee, the “praline” flavor a bit cloying while a locally sourced regular brew was better paired to sweet treats to come, it was with bites of the simple “Plain Jane” that tasting got started, the aforementioned texture pleasant in an old-school fashion while the glaze trends natural with restrained sweetness, certainly not the sugar-bombs found at Krispy Cream, Dunkin’ or the local convenience store.
Sharing with another, she opting to taste the “Chocolate Potato Stix” next for a sweet meets savory twist, those fancying such novelty will be pleased to know that the combination actually works well as a result of the darkness of the cocoa while the Banana Split offers all the expected flavors with frosting, fruit and sprinkles inducing smiles beneath a chocolate drizzle, the smoothness of a Fluffer Nutter ring making one wonder why the flavor has never been seen at any Doughnuttery before.
Chocolate Chip Whoopie Pie / Oatmeal Raisin Whoopie Pie
Declined breakfast at 11:02am on Monday, the hard and fast dogma of “the chefs change at eleven o’clock” apparently as strict as some of the laws guarding Mennonite traditions, it was just past eight AM that a party of two was sat in the same section that was walked out on one day prior, the waitress no doubt remembering the incident but a perfect picture of graciousness with an ever present smile.
Opened in 1975, an Amish family moving south from Indiana at first serving their own needs, as well as those of the community, by way of a restaurant and grocery that has grown to the fame it sees today, Yoder’s Amish Village comprises three buildings stretching along Bahia Vista Street in Sarasota and although known best for their pies and fried chicken there is little doubt that ramped production has diminished some aspects of scratch cooking, packets from Smucker’s standing in for housemade preserves while “Table Syrup” is pure garbage for those unwilling to pay for the real Maple supplement.
Still baking breads, pies and confections each day, the market oddly selling Strawberries from California as opposed to those locally grown, it was with medium roast coffee made specifically for Yoder’s that the meal got started, the refills so rapid that one could have easily drank a gallon if not paying attention while water glasses were also kept brimming at each and every table.
Decorated quaintly, dresses and stitchery with a few knick-knacks here and there, it was after perusing the pie case as well as the menu that decisions were made and with a sizable order to follow the only question was where to get started, the suggestion of a Sweet Bun popular for good reason given the pronounced yeastiness while liberally applied cream cheese frosting slowly melted and slid to the plate below.
Unabashedly fond of baked goods, though the other person at the table was craving something less sweet, entrees consisted of Amish Country staple “Fried Mush” with a crisp sear overlying a toothsome center lightly kissed in salt and butter, the biscuits fluffy but in some cases undermixed with small pockets of raw baking powder while the sandwich-style French Toast was golden, buttery and perfect as a result of the custard-infused egg bread regardless of the Strawberries’ providence.
At this point approaching the main event, some two dozen pies offered by the slice as early as 6am, it was in showing some restraint that only three were selected and although the “Yoder’s Style” Key Lime Pie was a bit unexpected with light citrus whipped directly into cream there is no doubt that the Butterscotch Pudding and Strawberry Rhubarb lived up to the legends, a trio of take-home treats including Whoopie Pies and Crusted Pecan Bars no less delicious and available for purchase in the next door deli/market.
Fried Green Tomato Salad, Goat Cheese, Country Ham
Pan Seared Kitty Mitchell, Garlic Hollandaise, My Way or The Highway Cheesy Grits, Smashed Parsley Potatoes
Bourbon Pecan Pie, Fresh Cream
Fried Black Cherry Pie, Vanilla Ice Cream
Key Lime Bar, Fresh Whipped Cream
Having spent a fair amount of time in Florida as a child, trips to Disneyworld or visiting family often filling the week of Spring Break, it was finally with a mature palate that a return was made to one of the State’s many Fish “Camps” or “Houses,” Owen’s of Sarasota proving more than worthy its region-wide acclaim.
Set a few miles from the ocean, an old home and shed overgrown in palms as well as mangroves converted to a restaurant some several years ago, Owen’s Fish Camp has made its way to the top of several local dining lists by way of its strong ties with local fishermen plus a focus on sustainability, not everything on the menu hauled in from Florida waters but the daily selection of “Naked Fish” offering a bounty of options that were still swimming that morning, the decision of how to cook them left for those lucky enough to land a seat to explore.
Undoubtedly sort of a “big deal,” the 4pm opening often sporting a small line while those arriving past 5:30pm are likely to be greeted by a wait, seating as well as service inside of one of four dining areas is cozy with plenty of Southern Hospitality, the staff appearing to be all female and dressed in torn-off shorts with tight T-shirts that seem to target the male audience, though the majority of the diners are old enough to be their Granddads.
Tucked into a small two-top along a center wall with a window open to the patio outdoors, it was after a brief review of the placemat menu along with a few specials that an order was decided and beginning with two “jars” also offered for those out-back waiting for a table while listening to Bluegrass the Roadside Peanuts were as irresistible as memory had suggested, the smoked fish spread as creamy as it was well balanced and one of the very few situations in which Saltine Crackers should ever be served in a dining establishment.
A bit underwhelmed by Fried Green Tomatoes, the flavorless breading too loosely adherent while the typical acidity of each round was lost somewhere in the cheese and country ham, a $30 entrée of Pan Seared Kitty Mitchell was undoubtedly a far more memorable investment as the “Calico Grouper” came across clean with a buttery finish, the garlic hollandaise not particularly useful as a condiment while Cheesy Grits and Crispy smashed Potatoes were each well conceived side dishes.
Perhaps not a place many might think of for dessert, a damned shame since the pastry Chefs are actually turning out some Southern Classics that compare favorably with the best between Miami and Tampa Bay, those looking to end on a sweet note are encouraged to check out the reference standard Key Lime Pie that can be eaten with or without housemade whipped cream depending on the diner’s idea of “tradition,” an equally impressive flavor found in the Fried Pie with outsourced Vanilla Ice Cream while the Bourbon Pecan Pie might just be the best thing on the whole menu as boozy notes are balanced by Fresh Cream and sweetness atop an all butter crust with plenty of toasted nuts on top.
Samples: Georgia Peach, Rum Raisin, Dulce De Leche, Pralines and Cream
Key Lime Sorbet and Salty Caramel Double Scoop on a Waffle Cone
Serving Venice since 1967 but still flying banners for the Buckeyes, Browns, Cavs, Indians and more, Venice Avenue Creamery is the very definition of an old-school scoop shop and with prominent placement alongside several touristy stores and boutiques there is little doubt the store has earned its accolades, the prices a bit more spendy than many but the product itself also high grade.
House-churned, hand packed, but resisting the urge to expand or go retail like so many others in their place, Venice Avenue Creamery started as a family operation and continues as such to this day with waffle-cones made each morning by Grandpa Urban while children and in-laws oversee day-to-day operations, the flavors running a gamut including ice creams, sorbets and frozen yogurt while confections such as shakes, caramel corn and frozen chocolate-dipped bananas also join the fray.
Friendly as can be expected, employees always smiling as scoops and samples are served to fans of all ranges in age, prices range $4.20 for a single to $6.30 for a double and although the flavors trend a bit more typical than Artisans like Humphry Slocombe, Salt & Straw or Jeni’s the base comes through clear and creamy with flavors like Pralines and Cream or Rum Raisin the result of years perfecting technique, the sorbets little more than fruit and a touch of sugar with the freshness of local fruit apparent in each bite.
Sampling through a few favorites before ordering, the smell of vanilla and sugar lingering in the air from waffle irons still warm, it was without question that a big scoop of Key Lime Sorbet was ordered and with bits of graham cracker crust folded into the creamy concoction the pairing with Salty Caramel with occasional notes of burnt sugar could not have been well crafted, each flavor delicious on its own but the combination touching on all parts the tongue with sweet, salty, sour and bitter all accounted for.
Plant City Strawberry and Devonshire Cream Shortcake
Banana Bread French Toast
Strawberry Crepes
Making way from TPA Tampa International Airport to Venice, the majority of a short stay to be spent on meetings and paperwork, it was with my mother that lunch was enjoyed at Upper Crust Café & Bakery, my 36 years bringing the average age of patrons down by at least a couple but the food and service actually far better than might have been expected.
Located on West Venice Avenue, and on Mondays one of the only games in town, Upper Crust features both parts of its name in separate sections and although the pastry case up front may seem to lack compared to many modern eateries the majority of the goods are as well priced as they are constructed, the scones something of a signature in six flavors, and with good reason.
Offering breakfast till noon, a one hour overlap with the lunch menu that kicks off at eleven o’clock and runs to three, it was with a trio of pastries plus two breakfast plates that the order was placed at 11:57 and delivered hot from the kitchen with minimum delay the quintet drew looks from salad-eating septuagenarians, the fact that pictures were taken spurring on the chatter.
Starting first with hot items, the French Toast sliced from a housemade loaf of Banana Bread before a quick Custard bath and light pan-sear, those fancying something sweet but not *sugary* are encouraged to investigate this as an option – particularly with pure maple syrup available for a $1 upgrade – while those looking for something lighter may be better served by paper-thin crepes filled with Strawberry Cream Cheese beneath a topping of compote mixed with Devonshire Cream.
Never shy to trend entirely sweet for a meal, the bacon included with French Toast mostly an afterthought, it was with intermittent bites between entrees that pastry-case treats were investigated and although neither the Seven Layer Bar nor Key Lime Square are likely to ignite any fires by way of their inspiration the Strawberry Shortcake is perhaps the best way to spend $6 in Venice as a hemisected Scone is served amidst a mound of imported Devonshire Cream and Strawberries from Florida’s own Plant City.
Told by trusted sources that East Florida’s best French Pastry was offered in an upscale outdoor mall suffice it to say that suspicion was aroused, but learning with time that every so often the best surprises are those that are least suspected it was with GPS fooled thrice by construction that way was eventually made to Piquant at Hyde Park, the service as excellent as the décor is eye catching while the pastries run the gamut from classics to things far more interesting.
Presenting the concept of “putting a French touch on American Breakfast Standards, using Farm Fresh ingredients,” with brews, vegetables, citrus, seafood and milk all source from in-state, Puerto Rican Chefs Rosana Rivera and Ricardo Castro launched Piquant in 2013 and as the duo has continued to evolve the menu seasonally, if not daily, since opening the scope of the three-meal eatery and bakery is almost overwhelming, the actual menu not even explored on this visit as the glass cases and bread alone proved quite compelling.
Not “faking French,” the servers all twenty-something Floridian Females that show a good grasp of the cuisine and techniques involved, it was after discussing favorites with a young Barista that a nine-piece order was assembled and taking a “some for now, the rest for later” approach any attempt at restraint was unfortunately soon rendered fruitless, first bites of the still-warm Almond Sugar Cookie showing restrained sweetness and great texture that immediately made one wonder what was next.
Quickly diving the rounded drop-style cookies in half, all of them good but the chewy Oatmeal cluster with dark chocolate studding particularly on-point, it was next the “don’t-call-me-a-Cronut” croissant donut that commanded attention, the layers well laminated around oozing Nutella while the Hazelnut Creampuff unfortunately had become a bit flaccid with cream and spread beginning to permeate the choux.
Righting the ship with a green glazed éclair, mellow coconut-key lime filling not compromising the pastry at all, fruit flavors were further exemplified in the Blackberry Cream Tart atop an all-butter base, the Almond “Croissant” without a doubt heavy handed considering the pureed nut filling, yet at the same time same time as delicious as it was dense with the better part of valor a commitment to sharing.
Pistachio Cake – Vanilla Meringue, Plant City Strawberries
S’mores Tart – Graham Crumble, Cocoa Nibs, Brulee Marshmallow
Located steps from several of the restaurants recently referenced in a scathing article about Tampa Bay’s *fake* Farm-to-Table movement, LOCALE Market from Chefs Michael Mina and Don Pintabona was selected for dinner largely based on the concept of locally sourced cuisine served in the setting of an upscale shopping environment, the second floor Farm Table Kitchen presenting an experience not unlike that offered in at New York City’s Eataly but with an even higher degree of refinement.
Generally a fan of Mina, only one bad experience out of dozens from coast-to-coast, LOCALE Market sees the Chef once again exploring new avenues with a full service space featuring aged meats and upscale ingredients alongside made-to-order as well as grab n’ go options, the staff as friendly as they are competent and ready to greet patrons of all kinds without ever feeling elitist at all.
Unfortunately visiting on a day when the ten-person “Chef’s Table” is not available, a tasting menu instead arranged by MINA GROUP Vice President Gary LaMorte, it was just prior to seven o’clock that the party was checked in, and swiftly led to a sizable four-top in the restaurant’s back corner it was not long before the evening got started, the meal in good hands with greetings by the server, GM and newly appointed Chef.
Dining adjacent one of the restaurant’s kitchen crew, they celebrating Mother’s Day while most other tables were duos sipping cocktails while indulging in charcuterie and cheese, it was with local beers and non-spirit-based beverages that the meal was complimented and although Florida Liquor Laws have not yet granted LOCALE full-license there is little doubt the bartenders have made the most of an opportunity as both the local Mead-based Genie’s Wish and “(Not So) Sleeping Beauty” were each the very picture of elegance, the former’s sweetness reined in by herbs while the later was appropriately described as Espresso-spiked Yoohoo by the waitstaff.
Moving at a good pace, the tasting menu presented in five courses plus a pair of additions, round one showed LOCALE’s commitment to local farmers by way of thinly shaved vegetables atop greens, walnuts and housemade dressing while the requested addition of “Michael’s Mothers Falafel” served up tender green croquettes that paired beautifully with dehydrated tomatoes and a pair of Mediterranean spreads.
Truly exploring Spring with course two, the smooth white soup poured tableside more like gazpacho in texture than anything cream-based, suffice it to say that anytime someone from Michael Mina’s group is working with lobster the results are likely to be noteworthy, the same to be said of most forms of sea-life or shellfish and further exemplified in course three’s duo of garlicky clams “from under the Sunshine Skyway” and customer-favorite Shrimp Scampi Toast.
Working with Niman Ranch for their grass fed steaks, the market downstairs offering both wet and dry-aged cuts at a range of prices to cook at home, it was instead in the Chef Alex that the fate of a 60-day Tomahawk was entrusted, the flavors robust with only a hint of flame having kissed the exterior while the sauces were each well conceived so as not to overwhelm the protein, the Tempura Mushrooms and Salty Potatoes each amongst the best Steakhouse sides recently tasted while much of colorful Kale Salad unfortunately went to waste.
Not particularly enthralled by grapefruit, though nearby tables seemed enthralled by a Panna Cotta’s bracing taste, it was instead in a different duo of sweets that the evening at LOCALE Market Farm Table Kitchen ended, the S’mores Tart nearly liquid at its core with all the signature flavors while the Pistachio Cake ate much like a cream-layered French Financier with a nod to Childhood memories of stopping at Plant City en route from Ohio to the beach.
Embracing the new trend of Southern meets Italian, a concept popularized by Memphis’ Hog & Hominy and seen as far off as Okra in Phoenix, Noble Crust burst onto the Tampa Bay / St. Petersburg scene in early 2015 and delivered by the guys who made Bonefish Grill a household name the sizable space espouses an immediate feel of commercial sensibility, the menu a clever collection of comfort foods with flavors that aim to please.
A rare stand-alone restaurant in Strip-Mall-centric St. Pete, two parking lots available for a space that looks boxy from the outside but more casually cluttered with several seating options including a Chef’s counter once inside, it was just past four o’clock at the beginning of dinner service that our party of two approached the hostess podium and requesting seats with a good vantage of the lone television showing the Lightning vs. Islanders a communal hightop was suggested, the stools constructed of steel and thoroughly uncomfortable without seatbacks.
Severely for lack in terms of air conditioning, the open patio letting damp heat in from one side while flames from the open kitchen further warmed the air, it was with a thorough “dining-for-dummies” explanation that a spunky young server presented the menu and eventually deciding to just give in rather than stop her the flow of superlatives lasted almost three full minutes, the result a lone cocktail while other recommendations were ignored.
Admittedly a “pre-dinner” stop, the main event to occur later at LOCALE, it was nonetheless in a total of four plates that appetites were entrusted and beginning with tender ricotta dumplings in thick sauce with briny bacon the meal started off strongly, the following plates arriving no more than five minutes later and undoubtedly a whole lot of food.
Sticking largely to signatures for this visit, the idea being to see how Nobel Crust executes on items from both ends of its chosen scope, entrees consisted of “Sweet Tea Brined” Fried Chicken with Watermelon Salad and the restaurant’s eponymous Pizza, the former a half-bird with good breading but juiciness that falls short compared to the long-brined Mary’s Organic version offered at Yardbird while the Pie was a far better showing of the Chef’s talents with a crisp-yet-pliable crust heavily topped in three meats, pickled peppers, sweet onions and tomato sauce.
At this point a little sick to my stomach as a result of the early morning, heavy eating and indoor temperatures eclipsing eighty, it was in forgoing softserve or the waitress-pushed Rhubarb Parfait that the meal came to its ending, the choice between Budino and a daily special eventually yielding one hefty slice of Chess Pie elegantly topped with rich Whipped Cream and thoroughly imbued with the flavors of Lemon and Buttermilk.
