Metro Pizza Sky Pointe
Bread and Butter
86th Street Square Pie – Mozzarella Cheese, Tomato Sauce, Romano Cheese, Olive Oil, Half with Old School Pepperoni
Old New York – Thick Sliced Mozzarella Cheese, Italian Tomato Sauce, Basil, Half with Sausage
The Gotham Pizza – Pepperoni, Mushrooms, Sausage, Green Peppers, Ground Beef, Onions
Detroit Red Top
Roast Pork, Sautéed Hot Peppers, Bitter Greens, Provolone Cheese, Oregano
Prosciutto Di Parma, Homemade Fig Balsamic, Burrata Cheese, Figs, Bob’s Basil
Although founders John Arena and Sam Facchini can take credit for Las Vegas’ evolution as a destination for Pizza, it was Pizzaiolo Chris Decker’s @everythingbutanchovies Instagram account that prompted a visit last Saturday, and even amidst Stage Two of COVID-19 precautions the Food and hospitality more than justified a forty-five minute round-trip.
Now the flagship of John and Sam’s family of pizzerias since November of 2012, with an expansive footprint including Lulu’s Bread & Breakfast, it was donning a mask that Metro Pizza on Sky Pointe was entered mere minutes after opening, Chef Decker already hard at work with six Pizzas plus two Loaves of Bread ready and waiting.
Dubbed “America’s Neighborhood Pizzeria” since the early eighties, though past and present so much more, it was with everything carefully transported home that goods were unboxed and photos snapped, complimentary table Bread still oven-warm with crisp Crust and soft center while a small “Gotham” not personally tasted was devoured quickly by guests.
Featuring generous portions and prices far lower than Ingredient quality or craftsmanship might dictate, Metro’s Old New York came next, the simplicity of Mozzarella Cheese, Tomato Sauce and Basil gracing fermented Dough from Cornicione to center while Chris’ Detroit Red Top utilized the same Ingredients in an entirely different manner with unprecedented lightness surrounded by a crispy Cheese lattice.
Asking Chris for one of his #instagramworthy masterpieces despite the circumstances, and seeing Chef come through with a pair, the “better” of Roast Pork and Bitter Greens versus Fig, Burrata and Prosciutto largely came down to personal preference, though both had to be carefully weighed against saving stomach capacity for at least a slice – or four – of Metro’s reference-standard “86th Street” Sicilian.
FIVE STARS: Serving Las Vegas for four decades and continuously evolving the concept while slowly growing the brand it would be difficult to say anyone has contributed more to Sin City’s love of Pizza than John Arena, and although any brand featuring more than one space may suffer from inconsistency Metro sets a high standard by rewarding their old customer base with predictable greatness while Chris Decker’s creativity looks towards a new era and without ever neglecting the basics – the same synopsis as always since it warrants repeating.
RECOMMENDED: Anything offered as a special from @everythingbutanchovies Social Media feed is worth asking about. So is the 86th Street Square Pie. And, really, any of the Pizzas.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: 1395 East Tropicana Avenue, 4001 South Decatur Boulevard, 6720 Sky Pointe Drive and 1420 West Horizon Ridge Parkway all still open with On-site Dining, Curbside Pickup and No Touch Delivery.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
www.metropizza.com