Pizzeria Ortica
Pork belly butter, tomato conserva, crostini
Ricotta gnocchi, marinara, Parmigiano Reggiano
D.O.P. MARGHERITA – San Marzano tomatoes, imported buffalo mozzarella, basil
Budino di Cioccolato – Chocolate crème layered with caramel
Babà al rhum – Rum soaked brioche
From Chef David Myers, Pizzeria Ortica seemed an odd concept to me given the chef’s training under Boulud and Trotter, but given the close proximity to my hotel, a good meal at Comme Ca in the past, and relatively strong word of mouth I decided to make the Anton Boulevard restaurant my last stop en route to the airport, arriving literally as the hostess opened the doors for dinner service. Arriving as the first patron of the evening and in actuality the only patron for my first thirty minutes in the restaurant it should be no surprise that service was outstanding and as some of the staff watched a soccer match on the television behind the bar I dined on five plates that were in many ways every bit as good as anything I’ve experienced at any similar American Pizzeria/Trattoria. Beginning first with a jar of ‘pork belly butter’ that is every bit as heavy as it sounds – essentially braised, confited, and shredded pork belly served with bright tomatoes and buttered bread – and moving on to a small plate of tender gnocchi simply adorned with basil and San Marzano marinara both appetizers would prove excellent. Progressing next to the restaurant’s focus, specifically the DOP Margherita hot and bubbling from the oven, all I can say is that do date I’ve not experienced a pie quite like Ortica – the edges charred, the center expectedly wet, and the toppings all excellent but the crust thin, springy, and crisp at the edges like that from a gas fired oven yet featuring pleasant smoky notes from almond wood firing. An impressive display of savories, dessert would prove equal to the competition and unable to choose just one in the setting of Baba and Budino I opted for both – the budino good but not particularly ‘special’ while the Baba was dense with rum, resting on a base of Chantilly cream and topped with a scoop of intense vanilla bean gelato – in my opinion an upgrade on a classic; something that is never an easy task.
