Orchids Garden
Hot Tea
Wonton Shrimp Balls, Mayonnaise
Crab Ball, Mayonnaise
Fried Calamari
Chow Mein
Beef Rice Noodle Roll
Fried Shrimp and Chives Ball
Steamed BBQ Pork Bun
Pork Sticky Rice in Lotus Leaf
Beef Sparerib
Chicken Wings
Eggplant with Shrimp Paste
Shiu Mai
Fried Glutinous Rice Dumplings
Baked BBQ Pork Bun
Lotus Seed Sesame Ball
Custard Bun
Occasionally one must abandon the rarified air of Mott 32 and handmade deliciousness of Shanghai Taste, the celebration of a good friend’s birthday taking some sixty-five guests to Orchids Garden on the corner of Sahara and Lindell.
A neon beacon for two decades, and still one of Las Vegas’ few locations for all-day Dim Sum, it was just prior to 6:00pm that five guests entered the space prior to several others, a total of seven tables each celebrating as silver carts navigated the premises.
Clean in terms of décor and populated by a largely Asian clientele, both good signs as are the well-maintained Fish tank and restrooms, it was less than five minutes after taking a seat that Water arrived and Tea was offered, the former kept filled while staff also did a good job of making certain that Tea Pots were topped-off regularly.
Sticking to Dim Sum for the evening, a truncated version of the daytime collection offered but unfortunately already sold out of several selections, it was as friends were still trickling in that Dinner began with Shrimp, both frilly Balls made with sliced Wontons and more traditional versions outperforming tepid Calamari soaked in Oil.
Seated with a mixed group, most ordering with minimal knowledge and some restricting Pork, Chow Mein proved almost flavorless save for Salt just as it did during prior visits, Orchids Garden’s Rice Noodles with Beef also fairly dull without Soy poured on top.
Difficult to say whether Orchids Garden uses previously frozen Dim Sum or makes the items fresh on-site, likely a combination of both, Shiu Mai suffers from a mushy consistency while Beef Ribs are fatty but delicious.
Fair-to-middling for Chicken Wings and Crab Balls, both “safe” for mixed crowds, Fried Glutinous Rice is more challenging and memorable while Pork Sticky Rice in Lotus Leaf and traditional Cantonese Buns are much better choices.
Happy with steamed and baked Pork Buns while Eggplant with Shrimp Paste could use more of the latter and thinner slices of the former, the absence of Egg Tarts for the third time made Dessert a pick ‘em between Custard Buns and excellent Lotus Sesame Balls.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: While it may indeed be true that Las Vegas lacks world-class Dim Sum Off-Strip, the debut of New Asian BBQ on Spring Mountain (in addition to Chang’s or KJ) has relegated Orchids Garden to a very specific status of “only when absolutely necessary.”
RECOMMENDED: Wonton Shrimp Balls, Lotus Seed Sesame Ball, Custard Bun, Baked BBQ Pork Bun.
AVOID: Fried Calamari, Chow Mein, Beef Rice Noodle Roll.
TIP: 10:30a-10:30p daily, though visiting at night runs the risk of menu items being sold out.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
www.orchidsgardenrestaurant.com