Momofuku
Creamsicle Slushie – Vodka, Orange, Oat Milk
Pork Belly Buns – Cucumber, Hoisin, Scallion
Spicy Cucumbers – Togarashi, Marcona Almonds
Salmon Crudo – Tamarind, Cucumber, Radish
Shoyu Pork Ramen – Pork Belly, Pork Shoulder, Slow Poached Egg
Chickpea Ramen – Fried Chickpeas, Bok Choy, Scallions
Bo Ssäm – Rice, Bibb, Kimchi
Crispy Duck Confit – Chili Yogurt, Tingly Salt, Cilantro
Part of Las Vegas for over five years, outlasting David Chang’s highly-touted Majordomo and still drawing a crowd from 11a-3p and 5:30p-11p daily, Momofuku at The Cosmopolitan feels “familiar” in a way its ownership likely never anticipated even though the brand has been changing the way Americans eat since 2004.
An unequivocal success story, Chang’s personal issues in no way dampening the vibe of a sprawling space that begins at Peach Bar and extends to Strip views including an Eiffel Tower, it is in the hands of “hip” yet gracious staff that diners entrust themselves while music from 1970 to now plays overhead a bit too loud.
Toqued by former Le Cirque Chef Alan Mardonovich, his considerable skillset befitting Food that references America, Korea and Japan with roots in French technique, lunch features a concise menu of Momofuku classics alongside ideas from Mardonovich plus predictably pricey Cocktails such as the lactose-free Creamsicle Slushie.
Adaptable as a snack or full meal, with Milk Bar next door for Dessert, it should be unsurprising that nearly every table begins with Chang’s empire-launching Pork Belly Buns, $7 each not exactly a “bargain” but easily justified across three delicious mouthfuls while “Spicy Cucumbers” with Togarashi and crushed Almonds prove shareable and complex for just nine bucks.
Less impressed by $28 Salmon Crudo, under-portioned and mostly forgettable save for the Fish’s fine quality, Ramen proves another “must” regardless of outdoor temperature – Pork Belly and Shoulder in creamy Shoyu Broth made more creamy with Egg Yolk while Vegan Chickpea Ramen sees texture the focus and no two bites the same.
Serving Chang’s growing lineup of Condiments to add Heat or Umami, Hoisin, Scallion Oil and something akin to Sriracha arriving alongside a demi-portion of Bo Ssäm with Lettuce Cups and housemade Kimchi, those disinterested in $180 to $268 “Large Format” items will find the Pork Shoulder well-represented while Chef Mardonovich’s Crispy Duck Confit features faultless Legs with crisp Skin and juicy Flesh ready to be dragged through Yogurt infused with Chilis.
FOUR STARS: Having never felt the need to go to the Las Vegas outpost thanks to fourteen years of dining across Noodle, Ssam, Ko, Ma Peche and Majordomo it wasn’t until former Le Cirque Executive Chef Alan Mardonovich took over that David Chang’s Restaurant at The Cosmopolitan became interesting, and thanks to quality Ingredients plus good technique the Food can safely be said to justify its pricepoint.
RECOMMENDED: Pork Belly Buns, Shoyu Pork Ramen, Crispy Duck Confit.
AVOID: Salmon Crudo.
TIP: Desserts are available from Milk Bar next door, but only allowed to be eaten at Momofuku by special request.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
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