Olio
Margherita, Half Prosciutto
Always one to value substance over style and having heard excellent things from trusted palates about Olio Pizzeria it was largely a matter of LACMA closing early and dinner reservations for 7:30 that brought me to the small 3rd Street locale for a quick snack while wandering on my last day in Los Angeles, but no matter how good the pizza, disinterested arrogant service can never be overlooked. Conceptualized by Chef Brad Kent (who was not present during my visit) and entirely empty at the time of my 5:30 arrival it was to a kitchen staff of two, plus two servers that I arrived and with a simple order the meal seemingly started fine, though the middle-aged Hispanic Pizzaiolo on duty admittedly seemed a bit annoyed from the moment I walked in as I’d apparently disrupted his work on a few take-out orders to stretch, fire, and dress the aromatic preformed ball of dough – a process that took no more than six minutes, but one that he more-or-less refused to repeat when I attempted to order the Nutella dessert focaccia stating it would take “at least thirty or forty minutes” even though the large olive and almond wood oven capable of holding 2-3 pies stood empty save for a to-go order of sprouts. Speaking specifically to the pizza, while servers seemed pre-occupied with chatting be the stairs as my water stood empty, the version at Olio is a unique one somewhere between the leavened, soft rim of a Neapolitan and the crisp bottom of a New York slice – a firm center capable of holding the weight of lightly applied and largely unmemorable cheese but excellent tomato sauce and supple, yet slightly dry prosciutto. A decent pizza in a prime location without the wait times of Mozza for $15, one could say that Olio presents a relative bargain given the area but for my money and time I’d prefer the quality and service of Batali and Silverton or a trip to Mother Dough any day of the week.
http://www.pizzeriaolio.com/