chi SPACCA
Affettati Misti – Coppa, Pancetta Rigatino, Speck, Calabrese, Trappist, Trotter Fritti
Pickles
Lardo Mantecato Pane Bianco
Focaccia Di Recco
Lamb Neck Stracotto
Beef and Bone Marrow Pie, Whipped Potatoes
Pancetta Wrapped Sweetbreads
Moorish Lamb Shoulder Chop
Costata Alla Fiorentina 52oz – Served Uncut by request
Chocolate Caramel Tart
Tiramisu
Meyer Lemon Panna Cotta with Huckleberries
Rarely one to target the traditional “Steakhouse” but admittedly impressed by both of my visits to Mario Batali’s temple of dry aged steaks, Carnevino, it was with high hopes for a similar experience that a reservation for Los Angeles’ chi SPACCA was obtained, expectations heightened when I found out that a good friend and well-traveled steak aficionado would be in town thus increasing our carnivorous undertaking to a party of five. Dimly lit and small in size, thus affording everyone in the room a full view of the proteins, chefs, and their interactions in the wide open kitchen it was just after 7:30 when we arrived for dinner and seated in the center of the room it was first with a bit of negotiation that we discussed options such as wine plus requests to have steaks delivered to the table un-cut and after a bit of unnecessary push-back from one young server it was the manager who stepped in, the rest of the meal smooth sailing as plates arrived in five separate waves with only the last lacking for abundant amounts of seared, roasted, grilled, or cured meat. Sufficing it to say that this chi SPACCA is not the right place for vegans, picky eaters, or those on a budget it was with a board of charcuterie alongside superlative bread from Nancy Silverton plus a spread of rosemary tinged lardo that the meal began and progressing forward to the thin, crisp focaccia sandwiching Stracchino the meal would only get better as it grew heavier, the supple sweetbreads and lamb neck my personal favorites of the meal, though the supple grassy funk of the lamb shoulder and audaciousness of buttery pastry surrounding beef stew and rich marrow were not far off – the later undoubtedly best shared by a small party given its richness. Noting only that desserts were good, the tiramisu in particular a stellar rendition, before focusing back on the tour de force that is the Costata Alla Fiorentina, suffice it to say that while “warm blue” is not my ideal preparation, this is probably as good as I’ve tasted for a steak that was not significantly aged; the exterior char only lightly salted and the interior supple with great chew, the $210 tab perhaps a bit expensive but when broken down by five and praised by all certainly not excessively so. All in all a nearly three hour feast paired with great friends, gracious service, and an intimate setting is something I’ll gladly pay a premium for and much like the rest of the Batali and Bastianich empire chi SPACCA proves exactly why the duo has been so successful from coast-to-coast; great ingredients, stellar service, and always treating the customer right.
http://www.chispacca.com/