Bottlefork
Bag of Crisps and Eggs – Malt Vinegar Powder and Sea Salt
Popcorn Sweetbreads – Calabrian Chili Aioli
Beef Cheek Poutine – Lemmenec Fries, Wisconsin Curds
Rich Man Po-Boy – Lobster, Foie Gras, Crispy Oysters
Creamy Kale with Duck Egg and Wild Boar Bacon
Fish n’ Chips – Lager Battered Cod, Malt Vinegar Crisps, Slaw
Smoked Corned Beef Brisket Sandwich – Horseradish Coleslaw and White Cheddar
Tots – Pimento Cheese Sauce
Pretzel Caramel + Chocolate Fudge + Buffalo Sweat Stout Sundae / Bourbon Peach + Michigan Blueberry + Candied Pecan Sundae / Strawberry Rhubarb Cobbler
Humbled by the heat and humidity combined with late nights and substantial dining since arriving in Chicago on Saturday it was with scaled back plans that Labor Day arrived and opting to sleep in before hitting the gym I was admittedly quite famished as we approached Bottklefork, the long and narrow River North restaurant toqued by former Allium Chef Kevin Hickey. Designed in the hip, gastropub style all too familiar to folks interested in dining out these days and owned by the men behind hotspots Rockit and Sunda it was just past noon when our trio was seated in a plush booth and quickly greeted by a charming server who kept beverages brimming throughout our meal a three-course, eleven plate order unfolded – the tableside-shaken chips with a runny egg offered gratis to those using their smartphone to check-in. Perhaps more full than usual as many restaurants in the area were closed for the holiday it was apparent early on that the open kitchen was teeming with activity and as appetizers arrived no more than ten minutes after ordering both the spicy sweetbreads and upscale poutine were exemplary, the later featuring double cooked fries more than capable of holding up to thick gravy and squeaky, fresh curds. Unfortunately a bit more limited at lunch than with the substantial dinner menu it was in a trifecta of sandwiches along with two sides that the meal progressed and although the gussied-up Po-Boy was somewhat undersized for the price it was none the less delicious, a similar compliment befitting the substantial fried cod and equally enormous smoky seasoned beef. Further impressed by large, tender tots and kale that tasted akin to a soft-set quiche it was with a trio of desserts that our visit to 441 North Clark Street culminated and although the beer-head foam on our first sundae was not an ideal first bite, once it was mixed in the malt and hops provided an impressive contrast to flavors both salty and sweet, the bourbon similarly gilding the second goblet with an oaky finish while ‘hot and gooey’ cobbler arrived bubbly, sweet, and simply delicious.
RECOMMENDED Beef Cheek Poutine, Fish n’ Chips, Bag of Crisps, Seasonal Sundaes.
AVOID: Tasty but tiny and clearly commanding a premium for ‘exotic’ ingredients I’m glad to have tasted the Po-Boy, though I admittedly wouldn’t order it again.
TIP: Offering a $10 coupon to those signing up online for the restaurant group’s newsletter along with a free bag of crisps for Yelp! Check-in those with a smartphone are behooved to come prepared.
http://bottlefork.com/
