Cocello
Fennel Focaccia and Butter
Meatball Arrabbiata – parmesan, San Marzano tomatoes
Polenta Fritta – poached egg, truffle
Egg Yolk Raviolo – ricotta, brown butter
Cacio e Pepe – black pepper, pecorino romano
Pasta alle Amatriciana – guanciale, roasted tomato
Tagliatelle – wild mushrooms, oregano, parmesan
Porchetta – stuffed pork belly, rosemary, roasted garlic
Balsamic-Glazed Red Onions, thyme
Anson Mills Polenta, goat butter
Lemon Panna Cotta with Prosecco Granita
Torta di Olio d’Oliva – Whipped Mascarpone, Orange Zest
Tiramisu – Espresso Soaked Lady Fingers, Mascarpone, Marsala Meringue
An Italian re-appropriation of the space once home to the much maligned Dillman’s it was for Labor Day dinner that three of us sat down at Cocello and much like each of my Brendan Sodikoff experiences both before and after the results of the evening were superb, a polished service team with impressive knowledge of the menu guiding us through a dozen dishes amidst the confines of one of the city’s most beautiful spaces to dine. Beginning first with crusty bread speckled with fennel amidst a wispy crumb alongside locally sourced butter it would not be long after ordering that our first round would arrive and with tender meatballs set in a sauce of hand-crushed tomatoes more bread immediately became requisite, the last drop mopped up as a duo of egg dishes arrived with yolks ready to be ruptured, the golden yolks pouring forth to satisfied smiles. Requesting round two to be entirely pasta based it was in a trio of handmade noodles that we invested our appetites and although both the Cacio e Pepe and Tagliatelle were al dente and delicious the favorite of the group was undoubtedly the Amatriciana whose cured pork jowl imbued the lightly smoked tomatoes with an earthy, aromatic sapor. Rounding out the savories with one of the fattiest cuts of porchetta I’ve ever experienced alongside a small bowl of red onions cooked in aged balsamic and stick-a-spoon-up-straight polenta it was onward to desserts that we progressed and unable to decide amongst the three nightly offering an “I’ll take the lot” approach was well rewarded, the tangy panna cotta smooth as silk while crumbly olive oil cake and a bruleed goblet of tiramisu each proved to be amongst the best I’ve experienced of either.
RECOMMENDED: Egg Yolk Raviolo, Pasta alle Amatriciana, Balsamic-Glazed Red Onions, Tiramisu.
AVOID: Filling up on the bread…though you’ll probably want to. I know I did.
TIP: Located in an area that seems to lack foot traffic I was admittedly surprised to find Cocello just as empty at dinner as Dillman’s was when I visited at breakfast and while I cannot be certain if this is an everyday thing I’ll simply say that anyone looking for excellent Italian food at a great price would be well served to visit, the room alone worth a look while the food and service are on par with the best Italian spots in the city.
http://cocello.com/
