Mothership Coffee Roasters
Nitrous Coffee
Strawberry Balsamic Tart
Concord Grape and Almond Galette
Blueberry Glaze Cinnamon Roll
Coconut Pineapple Scone
Chocolate Chip and Rye Cookie
Gluten Free Oatmeal Cranberry Cookie
Peach and Oat Crumble Pie
Chocolate Brownie Cake
Owned by Juanny Romero and Joshua Walter of Sunrise Coffee fame, with organic fair-trade beans roasted on premises and the sort of baked goods that reference the quality of spots from Brooklyn to PDX, Mothership Coffee Roasters represents a paradigm shift in the ‘Las Vegas’ java landscape…even if the Green Valley Parkway address is in fact located in Henderson, the results already justifying the praise and even a trip from the far reaches of the valley’s more fanciful Northwest ‘burbs.
Already making a name for themselves since 2008 with a seasonal lineup of espresso shots and brews served at Sunrise while their beans also form the base of cups served at restaurants including Natalie Young’s eat. downtown, it would seem fair to say that Romero and Walter have succeeded where several others have failed in trying to make Las Vegas an independent sort of coffee town and with the new shop offering a full view of roasters as well as the kitchen the experience itself is perhaps even more ‘craft’ than that at Four Barrel, Stumptown, or La Colombe – all of which outsource their pastry to local bakeries with far less creativity despite beans that are equally well sourced.
Small in size, but cozy in décor with baristas that know more than a thing or two about not only pulling shots but the diversity of products on the shelves, a visit to Mothership no doubt begins with the coffee and offering several basics plus a locally sourced chocolate mocha those interested in something truly unique are encouraged to order up a nitro-infused cold brew, the market-price item based on whatever is best from the single origin selections without only the slightest acidity and mouthfeel bolstered by light carbonation, each 10oz cup pulled from a tap complete with a creamy head.
Speaking next to pastries, and definitely the sort of goods that are likely to garner conversation in a city long lacking for any sort of artisan movement, Mothership features the work of not one but two young chefs, and with one woman working on reinterpreted classics while the other focuses on Vegan and gluten free items the selections run the gamut from sweet to savory with nearly every item tasted nothing short of impressive – even a snappy gluten free Oatmeal Cranberry Cookie proving quite boldly flavored despite the intrinsic limitations of its ingredients rendering it a touch dry.
Stated as being ‘farm to table’ by the barista, and attempting as best as possible to focus on locally sourced organic goods whenever they can, all Mothership baking is done on premises and with muffins shipped to Sunrise the seasonal selections behind glass show the sort of flavors far more likely to intrigue, the Strawberry Balsamic Tart and Concord Grape with Almond Galette both breathing new life into timeless classics with all-natural fruit purees atop flaky golden crusts while a supple blueberry cinnamon roll offered an equally fruity flavor, though perhaps not showing quite as well as it may have had it been served warm.
Functioning almost as an atelier, where staff members opinions are sought in crafting new items based on ingredients and whims, further tastes of item including a fruit and butter-pocketed Coconut Pineapple Scone and chewy Chocolate Chip and Rye Cooke showed an adept hand for spinning convention into something new without compromising texture or taste, and although perhaps a bit more ‘traditional’ than the rest both the Peach and Oat Crumble Pie as well as the Chocolate Brownie Cake were absolute steals at $4/each, the former the very picture of summer with near super-saturation of stonefruit while the later walked a tightrope between brownie and fudge, each rich bite the sort of thing that will no doubt see those dining in ordering up another freshly brewed cup of joe.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Opening in a similar timeframe to DTLV’s PublicUS, but doing on-site roasting and offering far more baked goods at a similar pricepoint with equal or more impressive results, it seems as though Sin City is on the cusp of an artisan coffee revolution some have long desired, and if early bites of Mothership are any indication it seems as though the competition will be fun to watch while best may be yet to come.
RECOMMENED: Nitro Cold Brew, Concord Grape and Almond Galette, Coconut Pineapple Scone, Peach and Oat Crumble Pie.
AVOID: Though good for a gluten-free product, the oatmeal cranberry cookie is best saved for those harboring an allergy, or those choosing to adhere to that lifestyle considering the quality of everything else.
TIP: Tucked next to Trader Joes and open 8am to 6pm weekdays while closing at 4pm on weekends, Mothership features most items fresh on shelves just shortly after opening with a few more added throughout the day. Those interested in specific selections are encouraged to call in advance given the menu’s seasonal focus as well as the small batch baking which often sees more popular items sell out before noon.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
http://mothershipcoffee.com/