Pink Box Henderson
Date with a Nutty Pig
Orange Marmalade
Apple Pie Fritter
Buttermilk Bar
Maple Old Fashioned
Blueberry Cronut
Dropping a friend off early at McCarran and finding Flour & Grounds Bakery apparently already shuttered it was to Las Vegas favorite Pink Box’s Henderson location that I turned for breakfast and arriving just after 7:40 with the kitchen still baking the results proved to be the best experienced from the doughnuttery since my first visit to the Lake Meade location just weeks after its original opening.
Ever a pleasant operation, the young female staff here as smiley and polite as the other locations decorating the valley, Pink Box Henderson offers the same large selection of flavors and styles as that which is found Northwest, and having already sampled much of the stores wares on my last three visits it was in a few new items as well as old favorites that appetite was invested, the $9 tab proving quite fair.
Starting first with classics, a buttermilk bar and sourcream old fashioned topped with maple glaze that trends far more natural than other places around, time seems to have improved Pink Box’s cook times and with far less grease than average both items were amongst the best to be found in the city, the Apple Fritter unfortunately still less crisp than one would prefer though certainly not oily and absolutely rife with both fruit and spice.
Generally excelling at filled offerings while simple yeasted and frosted versions have, in the past, seemed a bit doughy as a result of the brioche-style base, it was with the celebrated “Nutty Pig” that the tasting continued and with the blue cheese and balsamic even more poignant this time around the Pink Box signature remains one of those ‘destination’ items, the weekly special of Orange Marmalade offering another complex taste with the slightly bitter jam offset by custard filling and piped stars of cream.
Previously disappointed by ‘cronuts’ that were flaccid, oily, and almost inedible despite people actually waiting in line for a taste at 9am, it was with some surprise that display versions on this visit appeared far more fanciful amidst a variety of toppings, and opting to give blueberry a sampling the results were admittedly quite shocking, the layers featuring an unprecedented degree of separation with a crisp exterior and plenty of butter beneath subdued sweetness provided by the natural fruit glaze.
FOUR STARS: Perhaps a result of arriving just after opening, while all items were still fresh, or maybe a sign of improved recipes and craftsmanship as the Pink Box brand expands, suffice it to say that as far as “artisan” donuts go there are few better than those being offered by Pink Box Henderson today, particularly considering the cost – a repeat trip to the flagship soon warranted to see if similar can be find much closer to home.
RECOMMENDED: Date with a Nutty Pig, Buttermilk Bar, Blueberry Cronut.
AVOID: The Apple Fritter is fine, particularly for those who find more traditional versions to be ‘oily,’ but still won’t satisfy those looking for a crispy old school classic.
TIP: Not 24/7 like the Lake Meade Original, those looking for their fix are welcomed as early as 6am Seven-Days a week with shop doors closing at 6pm weekdays, 7pm weekends, or earlier depending on supply and demand.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
