Le Cirque
Chocolat Bisous – Stoli Vanil, Valrhona Chocolate, Vanilla Ice Cream, Godiva White Chocolate Liquer, Praline Rim
Rosemary Focaccia, Bacon Cheddar, Coffee White Chocolate, Sourdough, Pretzel, Baguette, Walnut Raisin, Salted/Unsalted Butter
Treasure Box – Green Cheese and Goat Cheese Tartlet / Hamachi, Squid Ink Cracker, Hearts of Palm, Avocado, Radish (Concept)
Maryland Blue Crab – Wild Golden Osetra Caviar, Dungeness Crab, Avocado, Apple, Salmon Roe, Gold Leaf
Prime Beef Tenderloin Steak Tartare – Black Truffles, Caper Berries, Quail Egg, Fines Herbs with Toasted Baguette
Warm Chestnut Soup – Porcini Cream, Farm Egg Confit, Beech Mushroom Preserve, Chestnut Cake, Black Truffles
Sauteed Foie Gras – Apple “Tartine,” Cabbage Croquant, Sauteed Cabbage, Cider and Calvados Sauce
Atlantic Turbot – Flavors of the Spring Garden, Green Tea Powder, Pomelo, Chamomile
Gold Crusted Quail – Farci au Foie Gras, Potato Mousseline, Black Truffle “Leaves,” Sauce Perigord
Japanese A5 Wagyu Beef Striploin – Braised Oxtail Croquette, Marrow, King Trumpet Mushroom, Leek, Sauce Vert
Sangria (Concept)
Double Espresso on Ice
Malted Milk Panna Cotta – Earl Grey Tapioca, Blood Orange Gelee, Orange Segments, Honeycomb Bon Bons, Milk Snow
Red Velvet Cheesecake – Mascarpone Cheese, Beet Cake,Verjus Grapes, Candied Beets, Balsamic Ice Cream / Sugar Cookies, Chocolate, Coffee, Vanilla, Hazelnut Gelato
Chocolate Souffle – Vanilla Ice Cream, Crème Anglaise
An unapologetic supporter of Le Cirque for years, the restauran’s tireless effort to improve on something that has been outstanding for over a decade always inspiring in a city where so many other spaces have shuttered, rebranded or simply stuck to the status quo, it was once again at the luminated bar that I chose to spend a special evening, Chef Wilfried Bergerhausen setting the evening Carte Blanche with a few new tricks up his talented sleeves.
Having already spoken of the team in prior posts, Ivo Angelov still running the best front of house in town, it was at the service of a temporary young female bartender that the celebration took place and starting with the decadent Chocolat Bisous the meal that followed was one to be remembered, all twelve courses either new, tweaked or reimagined since my last visit with the sort of sauces and presentations that led to a whole lot of plate-mopping with a variety of warm bread.
Making conversation with several guests throughout the course of a three hour stay, the semicircular spot a gathering place for may before or after dinner or a show, course one was presented as a concept for upcoming canapes with a whole lot of promise while the following offered Las Vegas’ best dish given VIP Treatment, the traditional black eggs replaced by Wild Golden Osetra Caviar whose buttery-clean finish was *almost* too rich to be taken in such a portion, the very definition of luxury.
Acknowledging the lengthy truffle season in follow up, both the tender tartare and beautifully executed veloute with pickled mushrooms and a butter-confit egg imbued by the fungi’s rich aromatic notes, course five saw the young chef send out a dish that harkened Michel Gueard’s work at Michelin 3* Les Pres d’Eugenie, the Sauteed Liver of Duck turned part savory by Calvados and spiced Apples while a crisp of purple Cabbage and stewed base of similar helped ground the dish in savory, each bite as unique and compelling as the one before.
Starting to think Spring at the menu’s midpoint, a filet of Turbot perfectly roasted amidst Carrots of varying textures and colors with Matcha plus Chamomile proving a surprisingly refreshing accent atop the sweet acidity of Pomelo Cells, the Gold Crusted Quail has recently found itself upgraded in artistry while the flavor remains as rich as any, the ‘branches’ of pommes puree gently dropping their black truffle ‘leaves.’
Unable to resist showing off the Wagyu once again, two unctuous ounces served alongside a croquette of oxtail plus smoky vegetables and a cylinder of marrow all kept in check by forest green Bearnaise, a new idea for cleansing the palate was next featured in the form of alcohol-free Sangria, the hollow White Chocolate shell spilling its liquid center to the slightest tooth pressure with a flavor that was indeed delicious, though perhaps a touch too sweet.
Thinking that all of the desserts at Le Cirque had now been tasted it was a bit of a surprise that the Panna Cotta from a prior Pastry Chef had not yet come my way and although perhaps a bit ‘out of place’ on a French menu with flavors reminiscent of milky British Tea the texture was both as creamy and elegant as any, the Tapioca pearls and Honeycomb raising the bar for the dish by several degrees.
Still impressing with a Cheesecake that is well suited to fans of sweet and savory alike thanks to the use of Beets as well as Balsamic, it seemed only proper that such a meal end with Le Cirque’s reference standard Chocolate Souffle, the rise even taller than ever with a flavor that continues to be amongst the most robust ever experienced despite a texture not-insultingly best described as Reddi-Wip soft.
FIVE STARS: At this point the longest tenured Chef amongst his peers at Robuchon, Gagnaire or Savoy one wonders just how high the ceiling is for Chef Bergerhausen while at the same time praying that MGM is interested in discovering exactly the same thing.
RECOMMENDED: Making reservations in advance if you want a dining room table.
AVOID: Passing up a chance to dine at the bar if a table cannot be accommodated when walking in.
TIP: Previously unknown to me, Le Cirque offers a Shellfish and Caviar Menu with a Whole-Lobe of Foie Gras seasonal prepared for the table at a cost of $240.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
https://www.bellagio.com/en/restaurants/le-cirque.html
