Andre’s Restaurant & Lounge
Bitter Two-Thymer – Bombay East Gin, Elderflower Liqueur, Housemade Thyme Simple Syrup, Lemon Juice, Lemon Bitters
Baguette and Butter
Charcuterie Board – Foie Gras Terrine with Lingonberry Compote, Pheasant Terrine with Mushroom Duxelle and Duck Bacon, Sauccison D’Alsace, Pork Rillettes, Mustard, Pickles, Brioche
Burrata Cheese Salad – Heirloom Tomato and Melon Tartare, Banyuls Vinaigrette, Cracked Pepper
Fried Frog Legs – Rosemary and Parsley Persillade, Brown Butter
Chilled Grilled Asparagus Tonatto – Crispy Shallots, Preserved Lemon
Pan Seared Duck Foie Gras – Granola Streusel, Poached Peach, Crème Fraiche, Southern Comfort
Duck Confit Cassoulet – White Cannellini Beans, Bread Crumbs
PEI Mussels – White Wine, Saffron and Housemade Chorizo
Pheasant en Croute – Golden Chanterelles, Sauteed Arugula, Fig Jus
Sweet Corn Risotto – Grilled Baby Corn, Green Garlic Butter
Roasted Artichoke and Tomatoes
14oz Bison T-Bone – Medium Rare with House Steak Sauce
Cassis Sorbet on Honey Tuille
Hazelnut Praline Gateau – Milk Chocolate Mascarpone, Orange and Fig Ice Cream
Dark Chocolate Fondant – Earl Grey Ice Cream and Smoked Cocoa Nibs
Lime Basque Cake – Blackberry Jam and Apricot Sorbet
Carmel Macchiato Bonet – Espresso Crisps and Condensed Milk Froth
Banana Ice Cream Profiteroles – Guava and Caramelized Chips
Raspberry and White Chocolate Souffle
Mignardises
Brandied Cherries
Announcing its pending October 5th closure on August 11th, just a few days after making a reservation for the coming weekend, it was with a bit of sadness that dinner took place at Andre’s Restaurant & Lounge in The Monte Carlo this past Saturday, something newer and flashier no doubt on the way in a city always willing to mortgage its past in search of higher profits, though this choice seems more shortsighted than others.
Opened at The Monte Carlo twenty years ago, outgrowing an original downtown space before the first “celebrity chef” arrived in Sin City, Andre Rochat has been instrumental in training some of Las Vegas greatest Chefs, Servers and General Managers, the current kitchen headed by Chris Bulen and Tammy Alana continuing the strong culinary tradition while Joe Marsco leads a gracious and pleasant staff as Director of Operations at both Andre’s and Alize at the top of The Palms Resort & Casino.
As classic a dining room as one will find in Las Vegas, alcove booths, chandelier lighting, Sinatra and lush fabrics all present and accounted for, it was with Carte Blanche given to the team that a party of two was greeted at the hostess podium just prior to 6:00pm by Marc Boutiron, the man leading the service staff exuding professionalism at all turns, yet at the same time as affable as they come.
Seated at a sizable two-top, the same as prior with lighting well suited for photos, no menu was presented based on personal request, a Bread Basket with good Butter soon to arrive along with a “Bitter Two-Thymer,” the Gin-based drink with an herbal edge proving a fortuitous pairing with several of the bold courses to follow.
Hearing stories from various Chefs around the city about Andre Rochat’s passion for technique, many French classics still present on a menu full of seasonal inspirations from Chef Bulen, tasting began with a large Charcuterie board replete with imported Salami plus housemade Terrines, Rillettes and Garnishes – both the mi cuit Liver and Duck-bacon wrapped Pheasant equally splendid whether eaten on their own or spread liberally on Brioche warm from the griddle.
Turning to the current Summer menu for courses two and three, the Burrata Salad and garlicky Frog Legs Persillade both flawlessly executed classics, Bulen’s “Chilled Grilled Asparagus Tonatto” took an entirely novel approach to the boldly flavored sauce traditionally served with Veal Carpaccio, instead offering it over fork-tender stalk with crispy Shallots adding texture.
Joking that he would not leave the table hungry course four was offered as two takes on Duck, a large steak of seared Grade A Foie Gras served over creamy Granola with boozy Peaches as perfect a specimen as can be found on this side of the Atlantic while the piping hot Cassoulet presented an-off menu display of exactly the sort of food Las Vegas’ ever-trendy dining scene is sorely lacking.
Lightening things up a bit with Mussels from Prince Edward Island served in a Saffron broth enlivened by spicy housemade Pork Sausage, course six dove right back into the sort of food seen in Larousse Gastronomique by way of Pheasant en Croute with tender Mushrooms and sauteed Arugula all resting in a pool of Fig-infused pan-sauce, the follow-up of a Bison T-Bone grilled just-past rare showing great texture for something so lean while the Sweet Corn Risotto with Garlic Butter was itself good enough to be offered as an entrée to both omnivorous and vegetarians.
Turning now to Tammy Alana, a talent that still does not get the recognition deserved as one of Las Vegas’ finest pastry Chefs, a small Ice Cream Cone of Cassis helped transition palates from savory to sweet, a showcase of four all-new desserts soon to arrive along with the classic Chocolate Fondant followed by Coffee, an ethereal Raspberry Soufflé and Mignardises.
Always impressed by the fact that Chef Alana oversees pastry and bread at two restaurants while still managing to innovate and reinvent each menu seasonally, one would be hard-pressed to name a *best* from Andre’s current assemblage of flavors and textures, the cupped Bonet and Hazelnut Gateau each eating lightly without sacrificing richness while the White Chocolate encircled Lime Basque Cake sandwiched between Blackberry Jam and Apricot Sorbet is rivaled closely for “wow-factor” by Banana Ice Cream Profiteroles with candied Fruit Chips and a dusting of Guava.
FIVE STARS: Executing French classics, seasonal whims and desserts on par with any restaurant in the city, this meal at Andre’s will hold a special place in the memory bank for some time to come, another visit before closure already in the early stages of planning with my strongest recommendation for those who’ve not been to go soon if they place any value in fine dining.
RECOMMENDED: Charcuterie, Fried Frog Legs, Pan Seared Foie Gras, Pheasant en Croute, Sweet Corn Risotto, Lime Basque Cake, Banana Profiteroles.
AVOID: The Roasted Artichoke and Tomatoes side dish felt a little flat on its own, though going bite-for-bite with the Bison put it into better context as the acid helped clean the palate when transitioning to the Risotto.
TIP: For those still not ‘sold’ on a full night at Andre’s, the bar menu and Happy Hour offerings include some great bites including the Frog Legs, Rillettes and a really great Caponata.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
http://www.andrelv.com
