Boteco
Mt. Charleston – Organic Greek Yogurt, Seasonal Fruits, House Birchemuseli
Champagne Pancake – Dutch Baby, Champagne Zabaglione, Strawberry Coulis
Blueberry Gravlax – Blueberry Vodka Cured Salmon, Capers, Red Onion, Crème Fraiche, Rye
Chicken & Mash – Braised Chicken, Mushrooms, Carrots, Pearl Onions, Celery cooked in Red Wine and served with Buttered Mashed Potatoes
Foie Gras Benedict – Brioche Toast, Mushroom & Bacon Hash, Poached Eggs, Madeira Foie Gras Cream
Botequito Sliders – House Ground Beef and Bacon, Onion Bacon Jam, Tomato, Smoked Gouda Cheese
Steak & Eggs with Potato Pave – Hanger Steak & Herbed Euro Butter, Crispy Pave Potatoes, Fried Egg, House Salad
Salted Caramel Budino – Salted Caramel Toffee, Mascarpone Custard, Whipped Cream Swirl
Brigadeiro Beast – Slowly Cooked Condensed Milk, Brazilian Nescau Milk Chocolate, Choco Power Mini Balls
To suggest that South Eastern Avenue makes up in quantity for what it lacks in quality would be an understatement, for every one CRAFTkitchen or Standard & Pour there are at least ten chain restaurants, three questionable Taco shops and twenty Fast Food Drive-thrus, thus when news broke that the former cooking school in a plaza best known for Crepes, Popcorn and Custard would be converted into a Social Eating concept headed by a former Chef from Joel Robuchon it unsurprisingly raised some eyebrows.
Stated to be “not a bar, a pub nor a restaurant” on its website, but rather a “local no-frills meeting place for friends and family,” even as it proudly touts Chef Rachel LeGloahec’s fine-dining pedigree on a separate page, Boteco opened on 5/12/17 to limited fanfare on Social Media in the face of substantial hype for two other new restaurants, the decision to pay such an early visit based largely on a Brunch menu that seemed significantly underpriced for the sort of plates it suggested.
Owned by the same people involved with the cooking school, the change in concept bringing Maine native and former White Barn Inn Chef LeGloahec into the fold to create dishes of “superior flavors made from seasonal and fresh ingredients,” first impressions on entering Boteco are created by clean lines and dark leather with light-fixtures made from repurposed Wine bottles, the music overhead a low-key blend of everything from the xx to The Shins with only one other diner present just past 9:30am on Saturday, the hotrod show outside seeing the parking lot quite full as Crepe Expectations’ line snaked out it’s door.
Describing its cuisine as “embrac(ing) recipes that are fused from cultures around the world – no borders or boundaries,” but clearly taking a French angle given the Chef’s pedigree and list of ingredients, those visiting Boteco for Brunch are greeted by a menu of less than a dozen plates ranging anywhere from Pancakes and a Parfait to Steak and Eggs or a Foie Gras Benedict, plus Espresso drinks served at even-higher-than-the-Strip charge of four bucks per shot, no discounts for a double with the cost on the bill for two a staggering sixteen dollars.
Reportedly offering free Mimosas on this particular morning, though it was not until the Chef stopped by that the deal was explained…and no Mimosa ever did arrive…it was with an all-in approach omitting Caviar, Oysters and a Charcuterie board that seven plates were ordered to divide amongst three people, the dishes sent out as they were readied from the kitchen with portions quite big for the price-point, though one wished frequently that the pace of a place suggesting it “provides the set and the setting to slow down in the company of one another and exchange experiences paired with great conversation” would course things out more appropriately and, indeed, ‘slow down.’
Admittedly still in its earliest days, the lone server overselling most dishes but generally quite pleasant and well-versed in the ingredients and technique, Brunch began with the Mt. Charleston Parfait featuring Organic Greek Yogurt and housemade Birchemuseli with a wide variety of Fruits and Berries, the fact that Cherries had not been pitted a risky mistake that fortunately did not cause any harm while the $12 Champagne Pancakes pictured and described on the menu as ‘Japanese style’ were instead served as a Dutch Baby with a side of Champagne Zabaglione, the menu updated just 48-hours later now listing the version served appropriately for a cost of $4 less than what was paid.
Told by the Chef that changes were already upcoming, a mere eight days and two Brunch services apparently enough to inform the owners that some terminology was ‘scaring off’ potential patrons, plate three featured Blueberry Gravlax now described on the menu as Vodka Cured Salmon, the velvety housemade Fish nicely paired to traditional accoutrements with more than enough to go around while the Coq Au Vin (or Chicken & Mash) was a truly remarkable dish with tender Chicken, Mushrooms and Vegetables cooked in the classic style with Red Wine and served with near-Robuchon quality 50% Butter Mashed Potatoes.
As yet not unafraid to challenge diners with a few luxury ingredients, though the updated Brunch Menu seems to have done away with Charcuterie, Cheese, Oysters and Caviar in exchange for Cobb Salad, Breakfast Casserole and a ‘Hangover’ Patty Melt, those interested in something truly decadent should happily invest $14 in the Foie Gras Benedict complete with two 63° Eggs atop Buttered Brioche and Mushroom-Bacon Hash, the now-dinner-only Sliders another great bite with a loose grind topped in Bacon Jam and Gouda while the previously misspelled “Steak & Sunny Side Laktes” are now termed Steak & Eggs with Potato Pave, a $1 price-cut from $14 really not something Boteco should have had to do as the Medium-rare Steak tasted as good as many of the city’s “Dry-Aged” versions with melting Garlic Butter and a stack of thinly sliced Potatoes cooked crispy.
Not always offering Desserts at Brunch, but happy to do so if some have already been readied for Dinner service, it was with a complimentary taste of the texture-rich “Brigadeiro Beast” that the meal came to its conclusion, the flavor of Brazilian Nescau Milk Chocolate far more bitter than some might expect while the Salted Caramel Budino was simple and well-balanced with flecks of Fleur de Sel, the elegant presentation at first appearing a touch small but in reality plenty to share around and the perfect amount of sweet at the end of a pleasant breakfast.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Difficult to assess as ownership has already shown an unprecedented degree of impatience by changing the menu less than two weeks in, Chef LeGloahec clearly has her work cut out for her if she is create something truly special in a part of town long in need of more interesting dining options, the choices made thus far unfortunately not showing much faith in the concept and certainly not focused in the right places as the cooking was at about 90% while issues such as the Coffee cost and lack of public engagement are yet to be remedied.
RECOMMENDED: Chicken & Mash, Blueberry Gravlax, Mt. Charleston, Steak & Eggs with Potato.
AVOID: Espresso, Cherry Pits and the middle-portion of the Pancake which was poured too thick.
TIP: Brunch 9a-4p Sat/Sun, Dinner 5p-11p Wed/Thu/Fri.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
http://botecolv.com/
