Meyer’s Bageri
Butter Croissant
Tebirke
Rhubarb Croissant
Spandauer
Kanelsnurre
Now offered stateside at New York’s Great Northern Food Hall, though the concepts appear to be quite different based on a single visit to each, Meyers Bageri at Gammel Kongevej 103 in Frederiksberg kicked off Wednesday in Copenhagen with five Pastries enjoyed at an outdoor table, the small shop one of no less than five in the Metropolitan Area along with the Madhus and Delis from the same team.
Originally opened in 2010 by Claus Meyer, a founding father of The New Nordic Kitchen Manifesto along with noma’s René Redzepi, Meyer’s Bageri brings the artisan concepts of the movement to the masses by way of Breads and Pastries produced exclusively from Organic Produce and Grains grown in Denmark and surrounding Countries, each bakery open at 07h00 daily to tempt diners with items made of everything from seasonal Fruits to stone-ground Rye and toasted Poppy Seeds.
Baking all items on site at each storefront, no central facility or commissary kitchen sending pre-made goods in each morning, it was with one baker visibly rolling out dough that three guests entered the small space mere moments after opening and allowing the others to go first as choices were debated it was not long before counter was reached, a pleasant young woman bagging the lot only to have it quickly unloaded just a few meters away for tasting, first bites of a Croissant showing it to be a bit more ‘doughy’ than most, though the edge baked up golden-crisp with the rich flavor of butter evenly distributed throughout the interior.
Additionally offering freshly ground Flour and free Sourdough Starters to those who bring their own Jar, an impressive practice considering how closely guarded most American Bakeries keep their secrets until it can be exploited by way of a Cookbook, it was after the Croissant that yet another look was taken at a Poppyseed topped Tebirke, the top layer shattering to the tooth and flaking to the ground with plenty of nuttiness that plays well off the light sweetness of a layer of Remonce.
Moving on to sweeter selections, the same great base as those above used to fashion a tangy Rhubarb “Croissant” and a Custard Spandauer topped in cracked Hazelnuts, both of them still warm and thus only partially set with great egginess amidst the flaky layers, it was finally Meyer’s Cinnamon Roll that shined even brighter than the rest, a heavily kneaded coil even more elastic than the version served in New York showing off with bright spicy notes and a perfect chew to the ‘skin’ not unlike that of a good Bagel.
https://www.meyersmad.dk/english/the-meyers-companies/meyers-bageri/