Kong Hans Kælder
Bites – Onion, Comte and Breadcrumb ‘Egg’ / Oyster Foam with Ramson and Asparagus / Gougere with Mornay / Toast with King Crab and Bechamel / Roe Buck Tartare Tart / Quail Egg with Caviar
Brioche, Baguette, Bordier Butter
Andersen Winery Cider
Seared Langoustine, Turned Vegetables, Fresh Tarragon, Wonton Pasta, Classic Sauce Neige
Turbot roasted on the Bone, Crayfish stuffed Squash Blossom, Coral Sauce Neige
Mushroom Toast, Foie Gras, Chanterelles, Sauce Vin Jaune
Roe Buck, Waldorf Salad, Celeriac, Sauce Gastrique
French Cheeses, Prunes, Pickled Pine, Candied Nuts, Field Honey, Chocolate Fruit Bread
Panna Cotta, Fresh Strawberries, Oat Crumble, Strawberry Sorbet (ugly Quenelle – server’s fault)
Mini Chocolate Donut, Salted Caramel, Chocolate Nougat
A remaining bastion of Classic French Cooking in Copenhagen Kong Hans Kælder has been greeting guests since 1976, and although reestablishing its Michelin Star in 2016 after a two year absence the Restaurant seems to be showing its age in the modern era, a Friday night dinner finding the cooking to be technically sound with a focus on luxury ingredients but fairly poor in terms of value or doing anything particularly remarkable or unique.
Famously located in Copenhagen’s oldest building, the previous home of Lords, a Mint and Hans Christian Andersen since converted to an arched dining area not unlike AOC and only modestly adorned aside from candles which add to the gothic ambiance but make the room a bit too stuffy thanks to a lack of airflow, diners at Kong Hans Kælder are greeted by way of a podium in the foyer where reservations and coats are collected before being led to tables lined in heavy linen, the menu presented as a Chef’s Tasting plus several a la carte choices.
Opened by Lene and Sven Grønlykke and now under the guidance of Chef Mark Lungaard Nielsen, a man who by all appearances seemed stern and unapproachable as he stood at the pass throughout the night rarely shifting more than a few inches, service at Kong Hans follows a similar pattern in that it is very formal without a lot of smiling but plenty of “Sirs and Ma’ams,” a decline to peruse the massive wine list probably not the expected approach considering the fact that the cellar contains over 3200 separate labels, though a dry ‘almost no Alcohol’ Cider proved perfectly paired to the vast majority of plates served throughout the three hour meal.
Still sporting wooden floors and echoing walls, the later occasionally putting others conversations far closer than wide-set tables should allow, it was with a flurry of six bites that the evening began shortly after opting for the Chef’s Tasting, a small plastic ‘egg’ containing Onion, Comte and Breadcrumbs a highlight as was a Crab Toast and Roe Buck Tartare Tart, the seasonal item once again showing up and proudly promoted as being shot only a few miles outside city limits.
Not at all a ‘snobby’ place, just one where formality fits the ambiance and waiters play their role throughout several tableside presentations, it was with nibbles finished that two styles of Bread were delivered alongside butter from Bordier, the New Nordic Kitchen Manifesto clearly not dominating the conversation as sliced Langoustine arrived next beneath foamy Sauce Neige and sheets of Pasta, the tiny Tarragon leaves perfuming the palate before dissipating into a background that was a little too sweet on the finish.
Traditionally serving the tasting menu for two, but happy to offer solo diners a seat, service continued with a “double portion” of Turbot roasted on the Bone and cleaned tableside, the meat tender and perfectly cooked, though it unfortunately lost a little bit of its ‘oomph’ when served next to a assertive Crayfish stuffed Squash Blossom blanked in a sauce similar to the first but slightly more briny thanks to the addition of Lobster Coral.
Clearly proud of their sauces, both prior and both to follow served tableside in elegant French fashion, plate three presented housemade Brioche topped in thinly sliced layers of seared Goose Liver with Golden Chanterelles and a smooth reduction of Pan Drippings plus White Wine, the flavors and textures both expectedly luxurious and left to linger for nearly fifty minutes until savories concluded with roasted Roe Buck Loin served ruby Red next to a ‘Waldorf Salad’ made to taste earthy by way of Celeriac, though admittedly presenting a nice balance to the tart Gastrique.
Unable to resist a proper Cheese Cart, the supplemental cost 150DKK, Kong Hans Kælder once again takes a pass on Denmark in presenting nothing but French selections, several unpasteurized choices not available stateside interesting with a ripe Blue and mature Goat’s Milk versions found most memorable alongside several condiments, the night’s lone Dessert quick to follow with an amusing display unfolding as the sever could not dislodge a quenelle of Strawberry Sorbet from his spoon, the composition itself also fairly disappointing as similar can be found at any average restaurant throughout the world with the same to be said of three mignardises including an oddly placed miniature Chocolate Donut.