Restaurant Barr
Sourdough, Country Rye, Salted Butter and Onion-Pork Lard
New Potatoes, Bakskuld, Lovage and Goat’s Butter
Bone Marrow, Unripe Berries, Stems and Parsley
Dry-aged Free Range Pork Schnitzel Wiener Art, Peas, Horseradish, Anchovy and Caper Butter
Sweet Cake, Cream, Sunflower Marzipan, Cherry Liquor, Cherries and Cocoa
Southern Jutland Waffles, Gode Rad, Strawberry Ice, Cream and Kernel Oil
Never all that intrigued by noma and disturbed by the herds of flocking foodies who claim that 108 is anything more than a money grab to fund other projects from René Redzepi it was admittedly with trepidation that a seat was taken at Barr on only its third day of service, the former noma space now bathed in sunlight tracing blonde wood with a menu from Thorsten Schmidt focusing on “eating and drinking traditions of the European Beer belt.”
In no way intended to be a replacement for the World’s former “#1 Restaurant,” that space still under construction to the North, it was mere moments after the restaurant was announced via Social Media that an online Reservation was made for a snack between lunch at Stud!o and dinner at Kong Hans Kælder, the pre-booking largely unnecessary as the majority of Danes were largely unaware of Barr’s opening, even though a day one review had already been penned by a local critic with a group of six Americans one table over apparently having booked a flight from Portland specifically to dine there.
Rustic and low ceilinged, pictures of noma showing little to have changed except for the lighting and several Taps added to a room adjacent the central kitchen, it was with friendly smiles that guests were greeted by a team of hirsuit men sporting lots of ink, striped shirts and aprons, the menu familiar to both locals and foreigners thanks to its focus on homey recipes such as Schnitzel, Potatoes, Smoked Salmon and Cheese, each table quickly presented with a Drink list and Water, the housemade Juices unfortunately not ready to go so early on but the collection of Aquavit and international Beers quite impressive.
Not a “New Nordic” Restaurant, though concepts of The Manifesto are followed in terms of locally souring everything possible while focusing on traditional plates from Scandinavia and the North Sea it was as the menu was perused that a basket with two styles of Bread and Spreads were presented, the Sourdough every bit as good as that at 108 and the Rye dark, tangy and full of Seeds with both enjoyable on their own but all the better with Salted Cow’s Milk Butter or Onion and Leek studded Pork Fat.
Far less blasé than 108, the waiters all wearing big smiles and engaging with guests in a way that made it almost seem rational that the Portlanders were already visiting for their third time, it was after some inquiry about the Bar Menu and two “Large Plates” that restraint was shown in ordering two appetizers and a main with an eye toward Dessert, the New Potatoes with Lovage and Goat’s Butter almost Asian in its use of dried Fish to create extra umami while the Bone Marrow was cooked just long enough to caramelize the top and render the center near-liquid next to a sour Chutney of Parsley and Green Strawberries.
Definitely a place that feels well suited to long Winters, the confines cozy and plates hearty with a nod to the sort of Food many traditionally enjoy next to a Lager or Stout, it was on the word of a visiting Austrian Chef stating “the Schnitzel is better than most back home” that dry-aged heritage Pork was served next, a crisp and light Batter gently clinging to Flesh that was rich and fork tender with briny Butter added at one edge and a Salad of Peas and Horseradish that thankfully allows one to choose how much, if any, of each they want.
Moving onward to Dessert, the pastries at The Corner giving one hope for all three choices, it was after a bit of indecisiveness that the Ice Cream was set aside in favor of Cake and Waffle, the former served as a floppy round dusted in Cocoa atop a moist Cake soaked in booze and topped with Cream and Cherries while the ‘Waffle’ was a crisp disc perched atop Strawberry Ice Cream, sliced Berries and Flowers with a smooth emulsification of Yeast, Oil, Sugar and Cream to be added at its side.