Mothership Coffee Roasters
Sunrise Cookie Butter Muffin
Vegan Chili Corn Pocket
Vegan Pumpkin Pop-Tart
Vegan Coconut, Almond and Chocolate Twinkie
Very Vanilla Pound Cake
Carrot Cake, Cream Cheese Icing, Caramelized Pineapple Puree and a Secret
Pumpkin Scone with Candied Pepitas
Chocolate Hazelnut Nutella Scone
If one carefully surveys the landscape of Las Vegas Bakeries from West to East they will no doubt find a bevy of options, yet as much as the scene has evolved over the last three years the fact remains that only three truly stand out, Rosallie to the West for its World-Class French Pastries and CRAFTkitchen as well as Mothership to the East, the later filling a particularly special niche in terms of creativity and their high quality Vegan treats.
Written about here several times since the small Roastery and Bakeshop opened in May of 2015, Juanny Romero and Joshua Walter’s decision to expand past Sunrise Coffee continuing the pay dividends as their Beans remain the city’s best while Pastry Chef Beth Ryan-Small continues to reinvent her display of Baked Goods as often as possible, it was after lunch at Naked City Pizza on Paradise that seven new selections from Beth’s fall lineup were tasted in addition to one new item from Sunrise, the Cookie Butter Muffin most certainly something worth driving a bit further down the street for as tender Batter surrounds a core of pudding-like Speculoos with tender Chocolate morsels and Streusel on top.
Having taken over Vegan responsibilities earlier this year, the Strip-Veteran proving quite versatile after years of cooking in some of Las Vegas’ busiest kitchens, it should come as no surprise to fans of Mothership that Autumn 2017 sees the kitchen once again offering several completely new items in addition to the classics, Beth’s spicy Vegan Chili Corn Pocket easily the most convincing pseudo-meat dish experienced across several years including many dieting on such things shortly after College.
As always impressed by the textures Chef Ryan-Small and her team has been table to create without Butter, Milk or Eggs, the Vegan Pumpkin Pop-Tart sort of like a Thanksgiving Dreamwhip Pie with less sweetness while her “Twinkie” outperforms Hostess in all ways in its current Almond Joy iteration, those who harbor no dietary restrictions should show no hesitation when diving into Beth’s newly released Carrot Cake Muffin with Cream Cheese icing, the tangy toping proving an admirable foil to the moist base imbued with caramelized Pineapple Puree, a touch of something Special and plenty of aromatic Spices.
Once again changing up the Poundcake, a “Very Vanilla” wedge not quite as impressive as the Blood Orange version previously offered but still quite good with plenty of heft and swirls of crystallized Sugar, fans of Mothership’s Scones will be happy to see two new versions offered for the season, the Pumpkin and Candied Pepitas triangle thick and rich with a flavor not unlike a Pumpkin Spice Latte while the Cocoa-based version is decidedly decadent beneath cracked Nuts and slightly hardened Housemade Chocolate-Hazelnut Spread.
FIVE STARS: More remarkable with every visit, the ingredient quality certainly important but Chef Ryan-Small’s training, effort and years of practice helping to create items that are anything but run-of-the-mill, Autumn at Mothership is once again worth making a special trip for regardless of dietary restrictions, though early arrival is advised as the best items will often sell out.
RECOMMENDED: Carrot Cake, Vegan Chili Corn Pocket, Vegan Pumpkin Pop-Tart, Chocolate Hazelnut Nutella Scone
AVOID: N/A, though you may want to stop by Sunrise for the Cookie Butter Muffin if that is more convenient.
TIP: Open 7a-6p daily, some baked goods coming out later than others including Beth’s excellent Brownies.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
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