Sunday in Brooklyn
Sticky Bun
Maple Cheddar Biscuit
Brussels Sprout Toast, Persimmon Sambal, Almond, Fried Egg
Malted Pancakes, Hazelnut Maple Praline, Brown Butter
Although the closure of Isa was certainly a blow to Brooklyn’s rapidly developing Restaurant scene it did not take long before another eatery sprouted up in prime real estate at 348 Wythe Avenue, Chef Jaime Young of Atera plus partners from Major Food Group launching Sunday in Brooklyn late-2016 and quickly making a name for themselves with not only hipsters but also neighborhood families.
Developed as a three-meal space focused on accessibility and sustainability, everything from nose-to-tail cooking, pickling and dishes featuring Bone broth, Stems and Seeds featured at Breakfast, Midday or Dinner, it was shortly after entering the rustic looking space around 10:00am that a seat was offered in back near the Bar, a pair of Vegans nearby discussing their options with three Real Estate Agents holding a meeting to their right and a family of four tucking into surprisingly large portions on the left.
Featuring an open kitchen complete with wood-burning oven plus a Coffee counter and to-go window showcasing skills honed in Boston and New York, a period of time with Tony Maws at Craigie on Main plainly evident in the Restaurant’s concept as well as Young’s cooking, it was having already scouted the menu online that decisions were made quickly, two housemade Pastries arriving shortly thereafter on a branded wooden board, the Sticky Bun soft and subtly smoky with restrained sweetness while the $5 Biscuit was excessively priced, though nicely layered and complex in its flavors.
Undoubtedly the sort of place to offer Avocado Toast, though the modern Breakfast-staple will likely soon be featured at Denny’s and IHOP, it was taking a different approach that Sunday in Brooklyn additionally presented a slice of housemade Bread topped in shaved Brussels Sprouts plus roasted Almonds on a base of Persimmon Sambal, the light heat and funkiness likely not everyone’s cup of Tea in the morning but all of it working incredibly well together beneath a Sunnyside Egg.
Not a ‘cheap’ Restaurant, but also not particularly expensive given the location, products and portions, it was finally in Young’s signature stack of Pancakes that any residual appetite was invested, the stack of three individually griddled rounds raised by Baking Powder and tinged with Malt incomparably light and fluffy beneath a liberal pour of thick topping that tastes equal parts Maple Syrup and Hazelnut Butter.
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