Blackbird Cafe
Sweet Potato Biscuit
French Toast, Apricot Chutney, Pure Maple Syrup, Whipped Butter
Swedish Pancakes, Cranberry-Blueberry Compote, Honey Ricotta
Opened in 2007 and toqued by Chef Yia Chang Blackbird Cafe appears to be little more than a cozy neighborhood joint from the outside, but like The Kenwood this three-meal eatery offers more than most would think whether in the morning when Oxtail or Sweetbreads occasionally find their way into Benedicts and Hash or at night when handmade Pasta takes center stage.
Located at 3800 Nicollet Avenue in the Southwest, the interior featuring kitschy touches such as the television-turned-aquarium and antlers above the bar, it was just past eight o’clock that the Restaurant was found un-busy, a lone sever taking care of what was eventually six tables spread across the lengthy room.
Made cozy by mixed wood and bright lights, a soft soundtrack muting kitchen sounds and other diners, it was after some debate that an a la carte route was taken in order to taste more items, the ability to order just one Pancake or French Toast at a discount creating quite a feast for under twenty dollars.
Asked if it was okay that all items come out at once, the kitchen presumably also running a skeleton crew early, it was with agreement that three plates arrived in less than fifteen minutes, first bites of a Sweet Potato Biscuit on which Chef Chang typically ladles Country Gravy showing nice layering and light sweetness though the unsalted Butter accompanying it added nothing in terms of texture or flavor.
Turning attention next to a $5 Swedish Pancake, the naming largely inconsequential but probably more accurate than “Crepe” considering the Dough’s thickness and stretch, suffice it to say that flavors here were far more complex than those traditionally served with Lingonberries thanks to reduced Fruit and Ricotta while eggy French Toast was merely decent in terms of the griddled Bread but elevated to better than average by housemade Chutney and real-deal Syrup.
www.blackbirdmpls.com
