Searsucker
Homemade Pig Skin Chicharrones – Togarashi, Chef’s Spicy Vinegar
Crispy Chicken Sliders – Buffalo Sauce, Blue Cheese, Slaw, Habanero Garlic Pickles
Bone Marrow – Fresno Chili Bourbon Glaze, Radishes, Shallots, Toasted Bread
Hummus – Chickpeas, Roasted Garlic, Za’atar, Olive Oil, Pita, Grilled Lemon
Ears – Crispy Pig’s Ears, Cilantro, Lime, Sea Salt
Burger – Parker House Roll, 10oz Beef Patty, Smoked Gouda Cheese, House Ketchup, Avocado Crème, Caramelized Onions, Bacon Jam with Duck Fat Fries and Habanero Garlic Pickles
Pasta – Wild Boar, San Marzano Tomatoes, Strozzapreti, Ricotta Cheese
Rocky Road Bread Pudding – Chocolate Croissants, Milk Chocolate, White Chocolate, Burnt Marshmallow, Chocolate Gelato / Cookies and Milk – Warm Chocolate Chip Cookies, Milk
Quietly surpassing four years serving Las Vegas in March, a 2018 transfer from Brian Malarkey to Hakkasan Group leaving the space mostly unchanged save for some menu adjustments, it was Sunday evening that Searsucker was found busy mere moments after opening.
Themed as a place to “Come Early, Stay Late,” its location inside Caesars’ Palace just steps from Omnia originally intended to catch club-goers both coming and going, modern times instead have seen the Restaurant serving “New American Classics” take a more serious turn, the Drinks less frou-frou and Food more focused on Meats, Sides and Salads.
Popular for both Sports fans and guests pre-revelry, a plethora of televisions on this night showing NBA Playoff action in an environment far more welcoming than Caesars’ Sports Book, it was after greetings at the hostess stand that two diners were led to a table near the kitchen, service proving competent yet rushed over the course of two hours.
Still bearing all the original design elements, even a hallway of relics selected by Malarkey en route to the restroom identical from a visit one month after opening, it was on-request that the 5:00p-7:00p menu typically offered at Searsucker’s Bar was presented, Dinner starting off with Pig Skins only available during Happy Hour at approximately $1 each with a thick yet crispy consistency and bold spicing with or without Chef’s Vinegar.
Moving next to a pair of Buffalo Chicken Sliders offered at $4 a piece, these too only available early at a counter which was already two-deep, both spicy Sandwiches were fine but largely inconsequential in comparison to housemade Pickles or bargain-priced Bone Marrow with accompanying Toast for spreading and dazzling Chili Glaze.
Unapologetically targeting a wide audience, Raw Plates including $4 Oysters (that are half-off early) passed over in favor of fragrant housemade Hummus, suffice it to say that Searsucker continues to impress with off-cuts in the form of sliced Pig’s Ears tinged in Citrus while the limited-edition Burger is worth every penny of its $24 tab thanks to a rich grind topped with plenty of smoked Cheese, mashed Avocado and Bacon Jam.
Equally happy with hand-cut Potatoes double-fried in Duck Fat, the housemade Bun also not lacking in effort or excellence, those seeking something sharable will be happy to know that in addition to Steaks ranging 8oz to two-pounds there is Lobster, Chicken and hand-made Strozzapreti served beneath a generous amount of Wild Boar Ragu.
Scaling back Sweets from day one, only four choices including Ice Cream and Cheesecake currently offered, it is fortunate that what is served ranks amongst the best city-wide in its genre – Bread Pudding made from Croissants steamy and rich beneath Burning Marshmallows while four Chocolate Chip Cookies served warm are bound to make a mess that most will be happy to lick off their fingers.
FOUR STARS: Although Searsucker’s original ownership fumbled the opening by not delivering on promises of items such as Rabbit and Duck to pair with Offal everyone knew would not last, four years of experience have seen the restaurant better find its purpose as an American eatery serving bold and well-developed plates with appeal to a broad demographic.
RECOMMENDED: Homemade Pig Skin Chicharrones, Bone Marrow, Ears, Burger, Rocky Road Bread Pudding, Cookies and Milk.
AVOID: With Bone Marrow heavily discounted at Happy Hour, Pig Skins not offered past 7:00pm and only twenty Burgers available daily a late-arrival is ill-advised.
TIP: According to Chris Conlon, Hakkasan’s Corporate Chef, Jessica Perlstein will be coming over to Searsucker from Stack starting May 23rd.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
www.searsucker.com/las-vegas
