L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele
Bianca Pizza – Double Mozzarella, Pecorino, Basil
Montanara Fried and Baked Pizza – Tomato, Smoked Mozzarella, Basil
Spaghetti al Pomodoro – Homemade Spaghetti, Tomato, Basil
Recently opened in Hollywood, L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele promises Angelinos an authentic taste of Italy, and although naysayers have claimed the seasonal menu steps away from traditions begun in 1870 the simple fact is that the Ingredient quality is high and so is the overall production value.
Inspired by Italian courtyards and bolstered by the bounty of California, Pizzaiolo Michele Rubini visibly working Dough behind glass amid a space surrounded by trees, it is inside the former Café Des Artistes that guests will find the concept backed by Francesco Zimone, the film-finance-pro-turned-restaurateur also present to greet a nearly full house on Friday afternoon.
Assuredly an expensive build-out, beginning in a comfortable foyer and continuing through the bar leading outside, it is from a fairly straight-forward menu that diners are invited to choose familiar favorites, Pizzas predictably front and center with Aperitivo, Verdure and more to follow.
Made famous by the book “Eat Pray Love,” a fact unknown to this diner until moments before booking, it was not long after seating that a youthful waiter stopped by to fill Water and take orders, noon arrival assuring minimal delay from the kitchen and L’Antica’s Bianca served within ten minutes as a thick layer of imported Cheese atop lightly blistered Crust still floppy at the center with a moderate degree of blister.
A bit let down by the cornicione, either a lack of leavening or too hot an oven preventing the rise seen in Neapolitan Pies served elsewhere, it was with one Slice remaining that a $22 Montanara was delivered, the frying even and subtle despite failing to yield the same crispness as New York’s Don Antonio while a simple plate of Spaghetti was almost *too* al dente beneath hand-crushed imported Tomatoes without a lot of Herbs save for a single whole Basil Leaf.
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