Located in University Heights, El Zarape seemed like a can’t miss “locals” spot and approaching the small restaurant the space seemed legitimate – an authentic hole in the wall feel, not dirty or run down, with a short line and a menu hand written on the wall and a staff whose English was just about as good as my Spanish. Having just finished snacks from Carnitas’ Snack Shack and with the restaurant fresh out of lobster for the oft-raved lobster tacos and burritos our decision to order lightly was made quite easy and choosing four tacos plus a rice pudding to be divided by three people the tasting was a few bites each with each protein fresh and tender, tortillas light with just a bit of chew, and the tomatillo salsa bright and lightly acidic. Perhaps not the destination taco shop that is Oscars’ in La Jolla, but a whole lot better than majority of the taco shops nationwide…and the rice pudding is probably the best ten quarters you can spend in San Diego.
Pork Belly App – Sweet Chili Glaze with small Frisee apple salad
Butterscotch Pot de Crème
Bacon Whiskey Truffles
No matter how you slice it, Carnita’s Snack Shack is the best and worst of ‘foodie’ culture; a minimalistic restaurant where long lines gather to wait and pay for the opportunity to experience aloof hipster service but, fortunately, some truly impressive shock-and-awe cuisine centered on brine and swine. Owned and operated by local boy Hanis Cavin and clearly a place where gluttony goes a long way what is truly most impressive about Carnitas’, aside from its popularity, is the quality of the sourcing – a local slow-foods approach that elevates dishes that could simply be audacious to something artisan, flavors popping and textures aplomb. Open noon to midnight six days a week with a menu that changes throughout the day depending on ingredient availability it should go without saying that Snack Shack isn’t for everyone, but amongst restaurants in its genre it runs far ahead of the pack and both the Bacon Whiskey Truffles and The Triple Threat are worth the wait (and weight.)
Almond Milk Panna Cotta, Rhubarb Compote, Almond Chiffon
Chocolate Profiteroles Filled with Malted Milk Chocolate Ice Cream, Chocolate Sorbet, White Chocolate Chip Ice Cream
Americano with Orange Biscotti
Pistachio Truffles
ocated on the grounds of Torrey Pines, lunch at AR Valentien was my mother and aunt’s selection for a birthday celebration and from start to finish none of us could not have been more impressed with the experience, a two hour al fresco lunch at one of the most elegant spaces I have ever laid eyes on. With the vast greenery to one side and the ocean to the other as the breeze kept the sunny afternoon in the mid-70s each of us dined our way through a $27 3-course meal of locally sourced cuisine from Chef Jackson and checked on frequently by our dining captain, Emilia, nothing was overlooked – each dish exceeding expectations in terms of quality and portion. From the bounty of fresh vegetables flanking each of the perfectly paired proteins to the trio of elegant desserts AR Valentien is the sort of place where no expense is spared and taken as a whole represents one of the most (unexpectedly) memorable meals I’ve had in some time.
Italian Grinder with Prosciutto, Salami, Coppa and wild arugula
Owned and operated by fellow gourmand, Bobby at Gourmandsreview, I knew a stop at Ariccia Italian Market was requisite for our trip to San Diego and from the clever displays and the warm hospitality to a selection of pastas, meats, local artisan foods, and La Colombe coffee the only way our visit could have been better is if they hadn’t been sold out of my size in a particularly clever t-shirt…and even then, the money saved was probably better spent on the truly impressive Porchetta sandwich; a superb rendition of the classic with crackling skin juxtaposing supple flesh while the bitter arugula and sweet onions proved a stellar compliment to the swine as the dense bread sopped up the ample juices with ease.
Stuffed French Toast – country style french toast with strawberry compote + marscapone cheese
Stuffed French Toast – country style french toast with nutella and banana + marscapone cheese
Housed in an old bungalow in La Jolla The Cottage is a quaint little place where locals and tourists alike gather to enjoy breakfast and lunch, most on the patio plus a few within, and as appealing as the mood and food might have been the service was nothing short of a disaster; a combination of disorganization and disinterest that led to long delays, unannounced specials, forgotten plates, and coffee that sat empty for ages as our (supposed) server Holly Ann essentially disappeared after curtly taking our orders which would arrive over an hour later despite the restaurant being only half-full. Speaking to the quality of the food, overall it was good with the coffee cake dense, tangy yet sweet, and truly special while the rest was at least competent renditions of classics…but none of it worth the hassle, no matter how nice the setting.
Described by the restaurant as “…an ongoing conversation about the lifestyle, ingredients and sense of place that is San Diego” it would be hard to describe a night in the hands of Chef Trey Foshee and our lone server, Mark, as anything else…except, perhaps, by adding a few superlatives about what an experience TBL3 truly is. From the gorgeous setting to the exceptional service then onward to the menu of items caught, picked, foraged, and farmed nearby TBL3 is not only a dialogue, but a cultivated three hour story about the space, the chef, and his ingredients – a story where inquiry is rewarded by education as tidbits emerge in an interwoven pattern while Trey’s flavors mingle on the plates before you; bright, balanced, bold, and fresh. From anecdotes about Chino Farms emerging as an entire plate of all things purple arrived as course four to a story (and sampling) of the origins of Mezcal before our final plate it would be very difficult to cite one specific plate or moment that stood out as the most memorable of the night (though courses 3-8 could all make a strong case) but taken as a whole TBL3 is simply a celebration of Southern California and a restaurant worthy of celebration.
From Dani Garcia comes Manzanilla – a restaurant where the bait n’ switch menu is complimented by servers who can neither describe nor pronounce a number of the haute Spanish tapas offerings that may (or may not) be available that day. Swank, sophisticated, and ‘buzzy’ during my visit I’d entered the Michelin Starred Garcia’s restaurant largely for two items – the famous squid ink fritters and an interesting foie gras preparation – only to find neither on the menu handed to me, despite being on both the online menu and the sample at the front of the restaurant. With editors from Vogue to my left ordering a nice bottle of champagne and the ladies that lunch to my right being gushed over by staff I guess I was lucky that the fritters (apparently designated a dinner item only at that time) could be prepared, but routinely ignored even with regards to my water glass and a ‘kitchen error’ leading to my artichoke dish being delivered after a pronounced delay that required me flagging down a manager, I cannot say service was good…not even close. With regard to that which was served, the squid ink fritters were indeed excellent – a creamy burst of the sea in a lightly fried shell – and dessert was innovative and quite delicious while the tomato tartare was refreshingly bright and simple. Less impressive – the overly salted and mushy artichoke dish, plus the complimentary grilled peppers which were even more overcooked than the artichokes…a ‘gift’ from the chef based on the thirty minutes I waited for the artichokes.
‘Hipster’ and ‘cute’ were never really words I associated until I walked into Bedford Avenue brunch and dinner spot Allswell on a warm Monday morning only to find the relative newcomer playing The Decemberists a bit louder than necessary in a room that looks somewhere between a country inn and a cabin in the woods…or perhaps the set of a Wes Anderson film with all sorts of homey wallpaper and lamps lining a the long wooden bar. Largely unoccupied save for a two other tables and greeted by a young woman named Adriana who, along with the bartender, represented the front of the house as Chef Smith and one other young man ran the kitchen it did not take long to peruse the concise menu and perhaps twenty minutes and a few cups of coffee later my two plates arrived; one sweet, one savory – both simple and both textbook “American” fare done well with the a split breast of juicy, crunchy chicken on a house made bun in one hand and an airy flapjack with just a bit of buttermilk plus a whole lot of pecans and pure maple syrup in the other. With a menu that changes daily based on the market and the chef’s whim Allswell is not out there to reinvent the wheel, but then again if you can nail the classics you don’t really need to.
Millionaire Bar with Chocolate, Sea Salt, Caramel, Shortbread
Lemon Blueberry Scone
Cinnamon Roll
Chocolate Cupcake
Cinnamon Coffee Cake
Located in Red Hook and a bit of a hike from the nearest Subway it was a bit of a schlep through neighborhoods I cannot say I’d venture into by myself late at night to get to Matt Lewis and Renato Poliafito’s Baked, but during daylight – solo or with a pal – the small bakery focused on American classics was definitely worth the walk. Starting with the homey décor and moving right along to the friendly staff and clever consumables Baked is the sort of place where ‘cool’ or ‘hip’ is not so much the trend as is humble and happy – each simple-yet-delicious baked good something one could probably make at home (or from the Baked cookbook) but here made with top-quality ingredients and ready on demand at prices that seem criminally low considering the quality. From a buttery scone to one of the moistest cupcakes I’ve found in New York and then onward to the dense coffee cake it was only a slightly dry, biscuit-esque, cinnamon roll that failed to wow amongst the more ‘common’ items but moving onto two unique bars the bbakers redeemed themselves (and then some) with a warm pecan bar every bit as good as the malted chocolate pecan pie at Four & Twenty Blackbirds plus the Millionaire Bar – one of those rare instances where something is so rich that sharing is not just an option, but a requirement…unless you instead want to save some for later, which seemed much more logical to me.
Owned and operated by Melissa and Emily Elsen, there are really only a few things one needs to know about Four & Twenty Blackbirds. #1) The small shop in Park Slope opens at 8:00am with a full case of pies, breads, cookies, and confections that you will want. #2) Practicing discretion will not be easy – the shop smells like butter, sugar, and vanilla and the employees are delightful…at $5.25 a slice with a $10 minimum for purchases on credit you may as well just plan on buying two. #3) If you are lucky you will arrive when the pie is still warm – the all butter crust flaky like a croissant yet capable of standing up to the decadent fillings. #4) If the Malted Chocolate Pecan is available and you don’t harbor a nut allergy you’d be foolish not to try the best-of-both-worlds combination of a traditional southern pecan pie and a rich chocolate brownie…but then again, the salted caramel apple was quite excellent, as well.
Green Strawberries – Angelfood and Buttermilk (cake, dots, sorbet)
Walnut – Parsley Root and Raisin
Chocolate – Spinach, Mint
Chef Justin Hilbert announced he was leaving Gwynnett St less than twelve hours after my meal at the East Williamsburg restaurant, though from what I’m told it was current chef Owen Clark that was responsible for my meal and regardless of who was top toque that evening I’ll simply say that at $85 the experience represents the best sub-$100 tasting menu I’ve had to date; each of the nine courses emphasizing unique ingredients in compelling combinations with ‘modernist’ technique used precisely as it should be – to make the meal both memorable not only because it looks beautiful, but because it tastes equally wonderful. Beginning with a cocktail and tremendous bread and butter before moving through salads, soups, spreads, savories, and sweets the only ‘expected’ part of my evening was the progression – the rest was innovative and stunning…the bitter meets brine of the nettle soup, the sour turns butter of the crispy skinned fish, and three desserts that defied convention starting tart then turning intensely sweet, and finishing with an intensely vegetal and visually stunning take on the peppermint patty – and all of it set to a great soundtrack, stellar service, and laid back atmosphere that had me debating an a la carte visit mere days later.
Fried Polenta with Mustard Greens, Prosciutto Cotto, Egg
Tomato and Buffalo Mozzarella Pizza
Unfortunately unable to visit Franny’s before the relocation the new space at 348 Flatbush proved perfect for pre-game bites prior to a Nets game at Barclays Center and arriving just as the restaurant opened its doors I was seated immediately at the far end of the bar; excellent service from a bartender/server named Tobias and a full view of the kitchen at work my award for an early arrival. Noting my time constraints and browsing the impressive selection of locally sourced pizzas and small plates before placing my order I was assured I’d have plenty of time to enjoy my meal and sure enough, within fifteen minutes my plates arrived as I sat discussing the history of the restaurant and their sustainability practices with a gentleman (who turned out to be one of the managers) seated to my left. Beginning first with a daily special, the $16 fried polenta, a thick slab of creamy polenta sat draped in pork and egg atop a bed of greens boiled in chopped pork – the entirety of the dish a rich, rustic, savory slap in the mouth that I absolutely loved not only in and of itself, but more so alongside the pizza – a simple and superlative Margherita with local tomatoes and imported Buffalo Mozzarella atop an uncut blistered crust with a springy interior structure light with yeast and a touch of sweetness that would have been good with just a bit of salt and olive oil – a strong contender for best crust in a city where great pizza abounds.
Located close to Lincoln Center and focused largely on wine, charcuterie, and the pre/post theater crowd of New York Bar Boulud had always been on my ‘to-visit’ list and with previous visits to a number of Daniel’s restaurants the expectation was that of quality cuisine and excellent service – the former largely assured given the menu’s focus on the terries of Gilles Verot while the later did not quite meet the previously high standards of Daniel, Café Boulud, or DBGB, or Bistro Moderne…though it was still competent, though seemingly preoccupied and disinterested. Speaking to the food – one order Grande Charcuterie and a trio of desserts shared amongst a party of three would prove an admirable lunch and with both sweets and savories amenable to sharing we all sampled widely, for myself the intense Pate Faisan and head cheese standing out amongst the pack the classic gateau basque and both modern desserts were excellent; the chocobon amongst the best citrus-meets-chocolate desserts I’ve encountered.
Precious – yes. Pricey – yes. Every bit worth the substantial praise – absolutely…and not just for the famous Mille Crepe, but also for the charming customer service and a (shockingly) pre-made Napoleon that stands up in taste, texture, and quality to the a la minute mille feuille and made to order millefoglie of specialty shops and restaurants both stateside and abroad. Speaking of the crepe, there really is not much to be said that hasn’t been covered at length by others – layer after layer of silky cake juxtaposing cream – each bite literally melts on the tongue leaving behind a fleeting hint of sweetness, a true revelation in subtle decadence.
After Fonuts in Los Angeles I knew baked doughnuts were a thing, but prior to walking past Butterfield en route to (the disaster that was) Maison Kayser I didn’t not know they had made it to New York and obviously unfulfilled by my ‘breakfast’ I made my way into both Butterfield Market and then Baked by Butterfield where things quickly turned for the better – smiling customer service, baked goods aplenty, and a deal on doughnuts by dozens or half – the later a better choice for a solo, though I could have easily rounded out a dozen given the variety of interesting options. With some still warm and others having cooled I opted for a wide range of the greaseless rounds and with the texture not-dissimilar to a pound cake or particularly moist cupcake these certainly aren’t the light yeasty rings some may prefer, but for myself all but the black and white, far too sweet with a flaky ‘candy’ shell (much like the namesake cookie,) were excellent – the cream cheese filled red velvet and the dense, stuffed Boston Cream particularly noteworthy.
…having missed/skipped the myriad Kayser locations in Paris I remain uncertain as to why I entered the 3rd Avenue location during my most recent trip to New York but between the high prices, disastrous service, and undercooked – literally raw dough – almond croissant I most assuredly will never return. Having heard some say that the restaurant ‘feels like Paris,’ I can only assume that those making such statements have either never been to France or that they meant the aloof and disinterested service, acrid coffee, and high prices felt like one of those touristy bistros along The Seine where no one really cares about the food or the service because, well, they’re tourists sitting on the banks of the Seine.
Salmon Pate – Smoked Onions with Black Pepper Crostini
Seafood Fritters with Smoked Paprika Aioli
Lamb Neck Rillette – Portuguese Kimchi and Black Pepper Toast
Piri Piri Shrimp
Roasted Heirloom Carrot salad with Toasted Miso Dressing and Spring Onions
Mushroom – Sea Buckthorn, Hazelnut, Puff Pastry
Uni – Crispy Pork Belly, Yuzu, Shiso Togarashi, Pickled Cabbage
Holland White Asparagus – Louro Gribiche Sauce
House Made Tortellini – Nettles, Bay Oil, Piri, Whey Broth
Tempura Duck Egg – Spring Onion Asparagus Salad, House made Lemon Ricotta
Gnocchi Romana – Cardoons, Shallots, Chick Peas, Parmesan Foam
House Made Tristi – Spring Vegetables, Arugula, Cultured Butter
Polenta – Braised Rabbit, Pork, Squab, Beef topped with Parmesan
Skate Chop – Watercress, Rhubarb, Green Garlic, House made Meyer Lemon Vinegar
Lemon Cake with Sorrento Lemon Confit, Olive Oil Sorbet
Grains of Paradise Pain Perdu with Apricot Puree and Apricot Kernel Ice Cream
Rice Pudding with Crushed Walnuts and Bay Leaf Ice Cream
Strawberry Compote, Balsamic Reduction, Brown Butter Cardamom Crumble, White Asparagus Ice Cream
Located in the West Village and helmed by Dave Santos, a man I’d not met but who many had told me was amongst the most talented and humble chefs they’d ever met, Luoro was deemed a ‘must’ on my most recent trip to New York and with late Sunday night reservations we arrived to find the restaurant quiet – only a few other tables occupied – thus leaving us with the Chef’s full attention…and a meal of epic proportions where both the items we ordered and the ones we did not arrived in plethora, always impressing and often wowing. From savory to sweet and subtle to spicy it would be nearly impossible to describe Louro’s offerings as representing a specific style and yet if I had to choose one adjective to label Chef Santos’ cuisine it would be “assertive” – the ingredients pristine, the execution precise, and each dish an exploration of its constituents with flavors and textures at the fore and no two plates alike. The cooking of a very talented man who takes great pride in what he does without taking himself too seriously Louro is the sort of place I’d frequent if I lived in the city and a place that both locals and visitors should put on their short list.
Quattro Mani “Toh-Kai” 2008 from Primorie Slovenia
Pan Fried Mashed Potatoes
Three Eggplants – Thai, Italian, Japanese with Chevre
Bobo Chicken – Tea Brined and Grilled
House made Vanilla Ice Cream with Pork Cracklin’ Brittle and Chocolate Sauce
They don’t have a website, they don’t take reservations, and they don’t use any fancy tools or tricks yet the team at St. Anselm – from my server named Margo to Chef Yvon de Tassigny and his two sous-chefs – managed to produce one of the most wholly enjoyable experiences on my most recent trip to New York. Small, loud, and decidedly warm from my vantage at the chef’s counter a concise menu was presented and without a cocktail list I decided what I would eat and allowed the bartender to suggest my drink – an orange wine full of minerality but light sweetness – and from there I sat back and watched the team turn out plate after plate of perfectly grilled cuisine, from crunchy cauliflower to enormous tomahawks, until my order came up – a troika of savories that rank amongst the best I’ve ever had in their respective categories; the eggplants smoky but tinged with brine from the cheese, the chicken crunchy and golden yet moist and rich, and the potatoes a buttery masterpiece inside of a crunchy hash brown shell. Happy, and with more dinner plans to follow, dessert was almost ignored until it was offered on the house; a simple sundae with the rich vanilla ice cream garnished with Mast Brothers chocolate sauce and house made caramelized pork skin…how could anyone say no?
Not a native New Yorker I’ve never really understood the appeal of “The Slice” but based on good word of mouth I stopped into Williamsburg Pizza as a late afternoon snack to find the small corner-store surprisingly unbusy with the owners happy to talk about their craft, sourcing, and approach – a trio that produced the best “slice” I’ve had to date and a delicious, mildly sweet Grandma square as well. Still a fan of Neapolitan pies over those from coal or gas Williamsburg Pizza goes to show that quality ingredients generally yield quality results; something I’m happy to pay a bit more for.
The Weekender – VBC Chevre with Honey, Green Hill with Preserves, Prairie Breeze Cheddar with Apple. Bread and Multigrain Crisps
On one hand, Murray’s cheeses are generally excellent and the new “Cheese Bar” is one of those rare places in New York that actually take reservations for brunch and yet on the other hand, what good is a reservation when the place is so crowded that the customer cannot be seated on time, so warm that it is uncomfortable, so loud that you cannot hear your friends…and so unprepared as to have run out of not only specials, but menu items an hour before the end of service? Perhaps all of this would have been a bit more tolerable had the French Toast been truly exceptional, but using dense unleavened bread left me unimpressed no matter how good the cheese; something my server clearly must have noticed as a young woman named Julia appeared at the end of the meal with The Weekender ‘compliments of the chef’ – a nice gesture, particularly considering the quality of the Prairie Breeze.
